I found my Hunter 240 at the marina with the bow riding on the front of the dock! Needless to say I have a large chip in the gel coat and a small crack around the bow eye, witht the bow eye a little loose. Questions 1. best material/method to repair the 1x1 cm divot (sorry could find the piece to put back into the fairway) 2. How do I retighten the bow eye? I imagine I will need to remove to fix crack. Is there easy access from inside somehow? I now have multiple spring lines (had one that somehow got loosened) to prevent and will tack down some padding on dock
Oouch - bow trauma...
- Thread starter John6017
- Start date
- Status
Wow, what an understatement
with "nose damage". Kevin I am sorry for your boat. But I feel much better about my dings from docking and trailering now that you put things into perspective for me.
with "nose damage". Kevin I am sorry for your boat. But I feel much better about my dings from docking and trailering now that you put things into perspective for me.
mine not that bad
it is more like a single spot more like at the very bottom of yours - yours wasn't just an ouch - it was more like a *&#*&#(()@...
it is more like a single spot more like at the very bottom of yours - yours wasn't just an ouch - it was more like a *&#*&#(()@...
Bow Wow ?
You asked....How do I retighten the bow eye? I imagine I will need to remove to fix crack. Is there easy access from inside somehow? Answer... I have a 23.5 Hunter and there is an access panel inside the bow which is held in place with four screws and some sealant. Once removed, you will have easy access to the nuts and threaded portion of the u-bolt. Somewhere on this forum there was an article and a sketch showing how to place a piece of pipe with two holes drilled for the threaded portion of the u-bolt threads to fit through. This pipe then acts as a strong vertical reinforcement to the inside of the bow, which is a very important area to have adequate strength for towing or mooring. I used a small dab of 3-M Sealant on the threads and nuts after tightening them down to keep them from coming loose from engine vibration or wave action on the mooring. so far it has held up for three seasons moored in the Atlantic.
You asked....How do I retighten the bow eye? I imagine I will need to remove to fix crack. Is there easy access from inside somehow? Answer... I have a 23.5 Hunter and there is an access panel inside the bow which is held in place with four screws and some sealant. Once removed, you will have easy access to the nuts and threaded portion of the u-bolt. Somewhere on this forum there was an article and a sketch showing how to place a piece of pipe with two holes drilled for the threaded portion of the u-bolt threads to fit through. This pipe then acts as a strong vertical reinforcement to the inside of the bow, which is a very important area to have adequate strength for towing or mooring. I used a small dab of 3-M Sealant on the threads and nuts after tightening them down to keep them from coming loose from engine vibration or wave action on the mooring. so far it has held up for three seasons moored in the Atlantic.
The roller and bow eye are really close
My boat on the trailer looks similar - the bow eye gets too close to the foward roller - it ought to be above the roller - seems like an error in design. I have had my bow eye rub on the roller during transport and it probably also lead to the loosening.
My boat on the trailer looks similar - the bow eye gets too close to the foward roller - it ought to be above the roller - seems like an error in design. I have had my bow eye rub on the roller during transport and it probably also lead to the loosening.
To Michael in Sarasota
Your story and picture seem familiar to me. If your boat was previously kept at Lake Patoka in Southern Indiana, I'm the guy with the 240 in the next slip. You and I spoke briefly the day you and your son were pulling the boat. The previous owner's love of yellow poly rope really paid off for him. Your before picture really doesn't do justice to how bad the gouge really was. Congratulations on the work you've done - sounds like it's working out well. -Ed Haines
Your story and picture seem familiar to me. If your boat was previously kept at Lake Patoka in Southern Indiana, I'm the guy with the 240 in the next slip. You and I spoke briefly the day you and your son were pulling the boat. The previous owner's love of yellow poly rope really paid off for him. Your before picture really doesn't do justice to how bad the gouge really was. Congratulations on the work you've done - sounds like it's working out well. -Ed Haines
Need to know how to fix gelcoat
Guess I still haven't heard about the best way to fix the gelcoat - anyone have a good method or product? What about Marine-tex? Blacksburg, VA
Guess I still haven't heard about the best way to fix the gelcoat - anyone have a good method or product? What about Marine-tex? Blacksburg, VA
Marine tex isn't gel coat but it's easier
They're two diff cats. Gelcoat is basically just resin with coloring added. Tape off the spot you've already filled and dressed so runs won't make a mess. Mix a small batch in the bottom of a dixie cup, add coloring paste to get a close match to the shade of the boat. try to gently fold in the color without whipping in too much air, let it set a few min to release any bubbles. Add hardener for a hot batch and gently brush(on vert app) or pour it over the wound if it's a flat spot. After it's on, don't touch it once it starts to kick/harden. If this is a totally new concept, do a practice run on a board or scrap material first. Sand out with progressively finer wet/dry paper and buff to your standard. Have fun but use rubber gloves when mixing and a face mask when dry sanding. Aloha, Michael
They're two diff cats. Gelcoat is basically just resin with coloring added. Tape off the spot you've already filled and dressed so runs won't make a mess. Mix a small batch in the bottom of a dixie cup, add coloring paste to get a close match to the shade of the boat. try to gently fold in the color without whipping in too much air, let it set a few min to release any bubbles. Add hardener for a hot batch and gently brush(on vert app) or pour it over the wound if it's a flat spot. After it's on, don't touch it once it starts to kick/harden. If this is a totally new concept, do a practice run on a board or scrap material first. Sand out with progressively finer wet/dry paper and buff to your standard. Have fun but use rubber gloves when mixing and a face mask when dry sanding. Aloha, Michael
I'd only be guessing
.. but if it was deep I'd fill it first and only cover it with a skim of gel coat to match the deck color. I'm no perfectionist so I'd just be using regular old resin from my shop and just mixing color in it. Maybe somebody has a more educated answer or just read up on the net. I've got a new wack from last weekend, about 1"x1" by my anchor roller so I'll give it a fresh go at it and give you anything I gain from my effort. Good luck, Michael
.. but if it was deep I'd fill it first and only cover it with a skim of gel coat to match the deck color. I'm no perfectionist so I'd just be using regular old resin from my shop and just mixing color in it. Maybe somebody has a more educated answer or just read up on the net. I've got a new wack from last weekend, about 1"x1" by my anchor roller so I'll give it a fresh go at it and give you anything I gain from my effort. Good luck, Michael
- Status