No need to feed it under and through, just twist the loop first and set the two loops made by twisting / looping over, over the ears of the cleat......
Only took me 8 years to figure this out
- Thread starter artboas
- Start date
If you insist on one-inch line, change the cleat. If changing the cleat is too much work, use a smaller line. Problem solved. Now that wasn't too much, was it? And we'd save 21 posts.
Respectfully, I like using thick dock lines on my 49. If I bought thinner lines, then I would have "line envy", of all the other guys who have what I had
So, the problem is that you are trying to stuff a loop of line into a hole, and it basically is bunching up, which expands the line as you are trying to shove it through
Super-easy neat trick
Take foot long length of 1/8" line, and tie small bow lines in each end.
Then, feed this through the eye loop
Now, simply pass both ends of the "specialty tool " P.N. 49-19763-B through the hole in the cleat
Now, just pull on the 2 small bowline loops, and the eye will pop right through the cleat.
The magic to this is that you are elongating the line, thereby making it slightly skinnier. Plus, you are flattening out the loop in the eye to a point.
The first time I tried this, I couldn't stop laughing how easy it was, compared to trying to jam the line through all these years!!
Note, it makes it slightly easier if you orient the loop so that the line is stacked vertically, I.e., one on top of the other.
Also, this helps remove lines from cleats. Instead of wiggling it back and forth (necessary if line is wet), attach the "specialty tool", and keep the loop tensioned as you pull it through with the other hand.
Much easier!!
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,913
@artboas that is a smart solution. Unfortunately it is a problem I do not have. I use 1/2 line on my 16,000 lb boat and double up the lines. The loop goes easily through the bow cleat. Line runs down to the clear and made fast. Then back to the cleat and made fast.
Benefits: Easier to handle. Lower cost in line. 1/2 in line more than strong enough to hold the boat. Doubled gives me a safety margin should one chafe. When boarding I can release the line at the dock but leave it looped on the cleat. Step aboard then cast off from the boat,in control, pulling in the running line as I go. Longer bow lines are nice but they are not long enough to reach the prop.
Benefits: Easier to handle. Lower cost in line. 1/2 in line more than strong enough to hold the boat. Doubled gives me a safety margin should one chafe. When boarding I can release the line at the dock but leave it looped on the cleat. Step aboard then cast off from the boat,in control, pulling in the running line as I go. Longer bow lines are nice but they are not long enough to reach the prop.
You could permanently attach the feeder tails to the loop. That way, of the loop got pulled tight over the part running through the cleat center, you wouldn't need to work it loose to get it back on.
- will
- will
Good answers and information. One other part of the problem is that modern boats, even the large ones over 35 feet, have undersize factory cleats. Upsize your mooring cleats. We replaced our strong-but-small 8" cleats with 10 inch. Big difference in usefulness, especially when you have to add spring lines on top of a bow or stern line loop.
Plan B: replace with a "Herreshoff" style cleat, which has a much larger pass-thru center.
Also -- remember that larger size lines are needed to allow for unplanned chafe. If it were a matter of strength alone, we could tie up most of our boats with 3/8" line, or even less.
Plan B: replace with a "Herreshoff" style cleat, which has a much larger pass-thru center.
Also -- remember that larger size lines are needed to allow for unplanned chafe. If it were a matter of strength alone, we could tie up most of our boats with 3/8" line, or even less.
I am in the cleat hitch on board camp. I single hand most of the time and its not a problem. With an aft spring line on a midship cleat, secured first on the windward side of the dock when docking, one can walk the boat laterally up to the dock and maintain that position while the other lines are attached. My lines are "permanently" attached to pilings and chafe guards are secured to line where they run thru deck chocks; therefore, there is no guess work as to where the lines are going to be tied on deck. After the windward breast lines are attached, the transmission is placed in neutral and the wind blows the boat to the center of the slip. The leeward lines are picked up with the boat hook and attached in the same manner.
Another observation is that if your boat is equipped with deck chocks that lead the dockline to the cleat, its doubtful that a preformed loop is going to come off the cleat.
Another observation is that if your boat is equipped with deck chocks that lead the dockline to the cleat, its doubtful that a preformed loop is going to come off the cleat.
What does the "cleat hitch on board camp." mean exactly, BigEasy? You don't use spliced loop dock lines on your cleats? What board do you cleat to?
Thanks for the lecture on how to dock your boat. Seaux interesting. WTF?
If I may, it means that one chooses to adjust their dock lines from onboard the vessel, not on the dock.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?attachments/jam-cleat-mooring-hitch-001-jpg.40041/
Nothing like complicating something so simple; doing a cleat hitch over the loop in a dock line. WTF???
3 of the 4 boats I have owned did not have chocks on for all cleats. MANY larger cats and tris do not have them, as they simply increase chafe. Depending on the situation, their usefulness could fill another thread. In fact, I'm tempted to remove the bow chocks on this boat in favor of a smooth SS sheet.