Only One Reef?

Witzend · Jul 14, 2009

When close hauled, pull the traveler to windward, release the main lower than the center line, and make sure your vang is not hard down. This will cause the boom to raise and the main to twist off at the top helping to de-power the top of it. Than play the main sheet to control the power. The down side of this technique is it will also loosen the leach making the sail fuller which is not necessarily what you want. My main is blown out so this technique works fine for me because I can't flatten it anyway. If you have a new flat main try to keep the sheet tight and play the traveler to leeward that will keep the main flat and the draft shallow. Make sure you have proper halyard tension.

There is also a technique called vang sheeting. When the vang is on hard it will pull the boom into the mast flatting the main when the sheet is on hard because you are effectively bending the mast. I doubt it would work on our boat. The mast is too stiff, tuff on the vang hardware as well, more of a small boat one design racing technique.

Also check the back stay tension. If it is too loose the head stay will sag too much and not match the luff hollow in the head sail intentionally cut by the sail maker. With a full rig and a stiff mast, backstay tension won't provide much mast bend to flatten the main as it would on a fractional rig, but it will help flatten the headsail some.

To summarize the main:
If main blown out...traveler on the high side, no vang...boom raises twists the top of the main off
If main new and flat...traveler on low side, sheet hard on... flattens main de-powering it.
Increase halyard tension and/or cunningham
Increase out haul tension

To summarize head sail:
Increase backstay tension
Increase halyard tension, or down haul.
Move sheet lead cars aft to flatten the foot and twist off the top.

Tom J · Jul 16, 2009

Definitely have the same problem with the single reef. Since all the hardware is in place for a second jiffy reef, I'm thinking it will be worth it to get the main modified and a line installed.

valcour · Jul 16, 2009

Your question reminds me of a story of when I first bought my boat, hull#218. During one rollicking sail with a 135% partially rolled in and the only reef tied in, I looked down below and noticed the Admiral sitting on the cabin sole. Asked her what was wrong, and she said she wasn't really having much fun (or words to that effect), and was tired of getting back up off the floor onto the settee. I thought about adding a second reef at that point, and started motor sailing (only 1/2 tank of fuel) with the traveler eased more in an attempt to reduce the motion. The engine got a gulp of air and quit. Needless to say by the time I sailed close enough to get in the lee of the land and anchor to sort out the engine problem (which I thought at the time was clogged filter, but was actually the off center fuel pickup location and not enough fuel in the tank) I finalized the decision to add a second reef.

While the single line reefing is not ideal, by reeving the line through blocks lashed to the reef cringles, it works quite well for cruising, and you can tie one in from the cockpit singlehanded. Sail shape with the single line wouldn't work for racing, but you would probably have enough people to hold her down if racing anyway.

In hindsight, I just took the main to my sailmaker, who I have dealt with for years, and asked him to install another reef without too much thought. It turned out to be so deep that I only use it when I get the signal from the admiral that less heel would be preferable. If I had it to do over again, I would specify the #2 reef to be no deeper than the depth of the #1. Also, depending on exactly what you have run back to the winches, you may run out of stoppers. I re-rigged the vang to a block with a cam to free up a stopper for reef #2, but I now understand there is a plate glassed in and you could drill and tap to add another stopper.

Tom J · Jul 17, 2009

My boat, hull #231, has a clutch and all the blocks in place for the second jiffy reef. All I'll need to do is get the sail modified, and run the new line. Thanks for the info on the depth of the second reef, I've been wondering about that.
I did the exact same thing while motorsailing, and the engine quit while I was heeled to port. We also anchored a couple of hours later in the lee of the beach, and got all of the air out of the system. Live and learn!

valcour · Jul 19, 2009

reef depth

Here are some approximate measurements on my main taken with it flaked down: #1 reef is 56" deep, and falls 30" below the bottom batten. #2 reef is another 66" deep (from #1) and about 38" above the bottom batten (4' below the #2 batten). Based on P=37.35' and E=13' full main is 242 sq. ft, my main with 1 reef is 212 sq. ft, and with 2 reefs is 176 sq. ft.

If you are counting on using the #2 reef offshore, you probably need to go that deep, but I don't normally leave the dock if the forecast is over 25. I have found myself in the situation of trying to sail the 310 in 30+ kts with both reefs tied in with no engine, and it does nothing but slide sideways unless you use some of the Jib. In hindsight I would have preferred the #2 reef to be perhaps 48" instead of 66". Then if I got into the position where I needed more than a smaller #2 reef, I would just take the main down completely and sail under jib alone.

valcour · Jul 20, 2009

loose footed?

On my last boat (Catalina 27) I had both a bolt rope and a loose footed main, and preferred the loose footed. On the current 310, which has the stock (bolt rope) main it is hard to get good sail shape downwind, and the sail dosen't really have a shelf. I will definitely get a loose footed main if I ever have another made. FWIW, it is much easier to bend on the main of a loose footed sail.

Dave on Valcour #218

Only One Reef?

jonfreeman

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Witzend

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Tom J

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valcour

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Tom J

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jonfreeman

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valcour

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jonfreeman

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valcour

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