I trailer my '86 C22 on it's original trailer which has one axle and 15 inch tires. I have been trying to decide whether to convert to double axle. What do you folks think?
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Gary
1 or 2
The single axle trailers that come with C22s are ok if you use the proper load range trailer tires, service the wheel Brg and don't overload the boat with a ton of stuff. I have towed mine a 1982 C22 for 3 years & several thousand miles with no problem. Just don't use pasinger car tires, they won't last.
The single axle trailers that come with C22s are ok if you use the proper load range trailer tires, service the wheel Brg and don't overload the boat with a ton of stuff. I have towed mine a 1982 C22 for 3 years & several thousand miles with no problem. Just don't use pasinger car tires, they won't last.
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Keith Wolfe
A Smoother Ride
If I had to choose 1 or 2 axles and the price was the same I'd choose 2 axles. The upkeep for brakes, tire, taxes and tolls will be a little bit more but you'll gain a much smoother ride for your boat. Sure the boat can take a good pounding at sea but a wave is more forgiving than a pothole, curb or set of train tracks.
If I had to choose 1 or 2 axles and the price was the same I'd choose 2 axles. The upkeep for brakes, tire, taxes and tolls will be a little bit more but you'll gain a much smoother ride for your boat. Sure the boat can take a good pounding at sea but a wave is more forgiving than a pothole, curb or set of train tracks.
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John
trailering
Just curious,I am building a trailer using photos and measurements from another one. I came across a comment that the placement of the boat 3" fore or aft on the trailer can make a difference in how it handles.Any one experienced this? Also I want the proper tongue weight when I position the boat on the trailer( the front robber stop will be adjustable) and am looking for advise... should one be able to take hold of the receiver and within reason lift the trailer support wheel from the ground?? Thanks for your responses.
Just curious,I am building a trailer using photos and measurements from another one. I came across a comment that the placement of the boat 3" fore or aft on the trailer can make a difference in how it handles.Any one experienced this? Also I want the proper tongue weight when I position the boat on the trailer( the front robber stop will be adjustable) and am looking for advise... should one be able to take hold of the receiver and within reason lift the trailer support wheel from the ground?? Thanks for your responses.
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Jim S
Long-Distance Haul
Well, it looks like I found some trailer experts - perhaps you can help me out. I have a 1986 O'Day 222 on a trailer and need to get this boat from New Jersey to Houston - trying to decide to pay the huge transport charges or take a road trip. The transport companies tell me that there is no way that this should be pulled this far due to the bearings, and perhaps even new tires will blow out. Does anyone out there have any experience or opinions on long-distance hauling ? Jim
Well, it looks like I found some trailer experts - perhaps you can help me out. I have a 1986 O'Day 222 on a trailer and need to get this boat from New Jersey to Houston - trying to decide to pay the huge transport charges or take a road trip. The transport companies tell me that there is no way that this should be pulled this far due to the bearings, and perhaps even new tires will blow out. Does anyone out there have any experience or opinions on long-distance hauling ? Jim
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MildBill
Long-haul Trailering
Did a lot of research among trailor sailors couple of years ago before I bought my boat; long pull or short, preparation is the key. I've towed Hunter 240 (on its Magic-Tilt trailer Hunter sold with it) twice between Williamsburg, VA and Lake of the Ozarks, MO, almost 2200 mile round trip (why? Family reunions... the boat is a big hit). Single-axle, 14" tires, surge brakes (nice, even though I supposedly did not legally require them). I debated adding an axle, but agree with Gary about conditions of properly configured trailer and not overloading it as the way to go. I'm forced to stop for gas every 3-3.5 hours max which is great for checking lug nut torque and feeling the hub and tire for excess heat (normal is just barely warm to the touch). I spend almost as much time in rear-view mirrors as I do looking forward to watch overtaking traffic and each wheel on the trailer for signs all is normal. Occasionally give the bearing buddies a shot of grease in the morning and always check tire pressure otherwise that's about it. Carry extra set of bearings, a trailer and tow vehicle full-size spare wheel/tire, chocks, and hydralic jack. I'll 'fess up that I should also have a complete spare hub to have done everything I could for a breakdown. Only other suggestion is to keep thinking and looking way ahead of where you are going and always work to leave a way out even if it is backing out the way you came in. I've performed some real escapes from erroneously pointing my vehicle-trailer combination into tight spaces; trust me, avoidance beats the time and effort of such escapes.
Did a lot of research among trailor sailors couple of years ago before I bought my boat; long pull or short, preparation is the key. I've towed Hunter 240 (on its Magic-Tilt trailer Hunter sold with it) twice between Williamsburg, VA and Lake of the Ozarks, MO, almost 2200 mile round trip (why? Family reunions... the boat is a big hit). Single-axle, 14" tires, surge brakes (nice, even though I supposedly did not legally require them). I debated adding an axle, but agree with Gary about conditions of properly configured trailer and not overloading it as the way to go. I'm forced to stop for gas every 3-3.5 hours max which is great for checking lug nut torque and feeling the hub and tire for excess heat (normal is just barely warm to the touch). I spend almost as much time in rear-view mirrors as I do looking forward to watch overtaking traffic and each wheel on the trailer for signs all is normal. Occasionally give the bearing buddies a shot of grease in the morning and always check tire pressure otherwise that's about it. Carry extra set of bearings, a trailer and tow vehicle full-size spare wheel/tire, chocks, and hydralic jack. I'll 'fess up that I should also have a complete spare hub to have done everything I could for a breakdown. Only other suggestion is to keep thinking and looking way ahead of where you are going and always work to leave a way out even if it is backing out the way you came in. I've performed some real escapes from erroneously pointing my vehicle-trailer combination into tight spaces; trust me, avoidance beats the time and effort of such escapes.
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Mark Price
Long haul trailering
I just got back from a trip (1500 miles roundtrip) MD to KY. Brought back a Tanzer 22 on a single axle KWS trailer. Check your tire pressure,axle grease,tongue weight and watch your speed down hills( I stay under 65MPH). If in dought slow down and check things out before they become a problem ( I also like to travel in the daylight just incase of a problem you can always find a WalMart open). I have made 3 trips over 750 miles pulling 3 different sailboats in the past year. Carry a new spare tire and replace worn or dry rotted tires before you put a load on them. It really is no big deal. Take your time and enjoy the trip. Mark Price S/V Wendy Lee
I just got back from a trip (1500 miles roundtrip) MD to KY. Brought back a Tanzer 22 on a single axle KWS trailer. Check your tire pressure,axle grease,tongue weight and watch your speed down hills( I stay under 65MPH). If in dought slow down and check things out before they become a problem ( I also like to travel in the daylight just incase of a problem you can always find a WalMart open). I have made 3 trips over 750 miles pulling 3 different sailboats in the past year. Carry a new spare tire and replace worn or dry rotted tires before you put a load on them. It really is no big deal. Take your time and enjoy the trip. Mark Price S/V Wendy Lee
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Dave
Why have trailerable boat if you can't trailer it?
I also have a 222 and have trailered it on two relatively long trips (Milwaukee to Southern MO, and Milwaukee to Kentucky Lake). I have a single axle trailer, and I take it easy with it (Max speed 60-65). I stop every couple of hours and check everything out. I bought new trailer tires and had the bearings replaced before the first trip. I did have a flat on that trip, but not because of a blowout from the load, but rather because I hit something in the road. I changed the tire and had no problems after that. You may want to consider a second spare for a long trip because I found it difficult to find trailer tires at tire stores when on the road. The couple of places I stopped indicated that these are often seasonal tires (i.e., available in the spring, and only available as a special order at other times). I would also make sure your vehicle can handle the trip. I originally pulled with a Jeep Cherokee, and that was a little underpowered in hills (Ozarks in southern MO). It did fine on level ground. I upgraded to an Expedition this year, and it works great. I still take it easy in the hills, but it has plenty of umph for this boat. In any case, as long as you keep your vehicle and trailer in good working order, it should have no problem with the trip. Good luck, and enjoy the fall and winter sailing opportunities that that part of the country has to offer. I'm squeezing as much as I can out of the season in the upper midwest. Best regards, Dave
I also have a 222 and have trailered it on two relatively long trips (Milwaukee to Southern MO, and Milwaukee to Kentucky Lake). I have a single axle trailer, and I take it easy with it (Max speed 60-65). I stop every couple of hours and check everything out. I bought new trailer tires and had the bearings replaced before the first trip. I did have a flat on that trip, but not because of a blowout from the load, but rather because I hit something in the road. I changed the tire and had no problems after that. You may want to consider a second spare for a long trip because I found it difficult to find trailer tires at tire stores when on the road. The couple of places I stopped indicated that these are often seasonal tires (i.e., available in the spring, and only available as a special order at other times). I would also make sure your vehicle can handle the trip. I originally pulled with a Jeep Cherokee, and that was a little underpowered in hills (Ozarks in southern MO). It did fine on level ground. I upgraded to an Expedition this year, and it works great. I still take it easy in the hills, but it has plenty of umph for this boat. In any case, as long as you keep your vehicle and trailer in good working order, it should have no problem with the trip. Good luck, and enjoy the fall and winter sailing opportunities that that part of the country has to offer. I'm squeezing as much as I can out of the season in the upper midwest. Best regards, Dave
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Mark
Trailering with a Cherokee
I noticed that you trailered your 222 with a Cherokee. Was that a standard or auto transmission? I am worried about trailering a C22 with my standard tranny Cherokee, what do ya think?
I noticed that you trailered your 222 with a Cherokee. Was that a standard or auto transmission? I am worried about trailering a C22 with my standard tranny Cherokee, what do ya think?
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Dave
Trailering with a Cherokee
I realize that this thread has taken a slightly different direction from the original post, but it's still in the general category of trailering. I pulled with a 1998 Cherokee Sport, with automatic transmission. The straight 6 did fine as a tow vehicle going short distances on level ground, and it pulled the boat out of the water with no problem in 4WD. The limitations were in the hills where it got bogged down. I have been told that even larger engines with the appropriate cooling fans on the transmissions and better low end torque should not be pushed on steep hills (i.e., dropping down to 40-45 mph on a steep grade is normal) but I was worried that I would eventually do damage to the transmission. In addition, the weight of the boat/trailer was close to the weight of the vehicle. Finally, there was not a lot of room in the vehicle for 2 adults and 2 kids, which is why we upgraded to the bigger tow vehicle. I can't really comment on the standard vs. automatic transmission. However, if I was only towing a couple times in the summer, and only for short distances, I wouldn't have invested in the bigger vehicle. Given that we are towing about 2k miles per summer, we decided it was necessary. Finally, commenting on the original question posted by Don, I would say that the decision as to whether to convert to a double-axle trailer depends on the amount of towing that you plan to do. For my purposes, the single-axle trailer works fine, and while I did some modifications to my trailer last year (i.e., converted rollers to bunks, and created simple pvc pipe keel guides to aid in loading), I didn't consider adding another axle. If I were towing a lot more, I might consider getting a 2 axle. I'm not sure if the most cost effective approach would be to add an axle, or sell the original trailer and buy a double-axle trailer. You might want to talk to someone at a trailer shop to see what they think about the prospects of converting. Does adding an axel require adding additional length to the trailer? Is the structure typically the same? I would be interested in hearing from those with more expertise than I have. Dave
I realize that this thread has taken a slightly different direction from the original post, but it's still in the general category of trailering. I pulled with a 1998 Cherokee Sport, with automatic transmission. The straight 6 did fine as a tow vehicle going short distances on level ground, and it pulled the boat out of the water with no problem in 4WD. The limitations were in the hills where it got bogged down. I have been told that even larger engines with the appropriate cooling fans on the transmissions and better low end torque should not be pushed on steep hills (i.e., dropping down to 40-45 mph on a steep grade is normal) but I was worried that I would eventually do damage to the transmission. In addition, the weight of the boat/trailer was close to the weight of the vehicle. Finally, there was not a lot of room in the vehicle for 2 adults and 2 kids, which is why we upgraded to the bigger tow vehicle. I can't really comment on the standard vs. automatic transmission. However, if I was only towing a couple times in the summer, and only for short distances, I wouldn't have invested in the bigger vehicle. Given that we are towing about 2k miles per summer, we decided it was necessary. Finally, commenting on the original question posted by Don, I would say that the decision as to whether to convert to a double-axle trailer depends on the amount of towing that you plan to do. For my purposes, the single-axle trailer works fine, and while I did some modifications to my trailer last year (i.e., converted rollers to bunks, and created simple pvc pipe keel guides to aid in loading), I didn't consider adding another axle. If I were towing a lot more, I might consider getting a 2 axle. I'm not sure if the most cost effective approach would be to add an axle, or sell the original trailer and buy a double-axle trailer. You might want to talk to someone at a trailer shop to see what they think about the prospects of converting. Does adding an axel require adding additional length to the trailer? Is the structure typically the same? I would be interested in hearing from those with more expertise than I have. Dave
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Chip Giles
Two axles prevent disaster
Go with the second axle. We have twice nearly had a disaster with a single axle. We now have two. Read my stories on my website.
Go with the second axle. We have twice nearly had a disaster with a single axle. We now have two. Read my stories on my website.
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Joe R., SV Skooky 3 - Cat 30
3700 lbs behind my 6cyl taurus
Hunter 240 You know there's something on your tail. special cooler and beefed trany. Did have to replace rear struts am definitly over gross dont use it for long trips, just to & from the marina once a yr each way
Hunter 240 You know there's something on your tail. special cooler and beefed trany. Did have to replace rear struts am definitly over gross dont use it for long trips, just to & from the marina once a yr each way
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Mike
Chip you made my day
with your hilarious story "The great Y2Key West sailing adventure". Everyone should take time to check out his web site.
with your hilarious story "The great Y2Key West sailing adventure". Everyone should take time to check out his web site.
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