Using an inverter to run power tools will draw the batteries down. How do you anticipate to recharge them if you do not have electricity?
A "generator" as we call it, generates AC power... its ready to use in your power tools.I haven't gotten the sense that anyone's ever tried the car battery inverter route. Seems to me, a generator is just a gas engine driving an inverter. I already have a gas engine on my car, so why buy another gas motor to drag around?
Thanks for all the input.
There are certain differences, a generator uses a dynamo to produce power while a car uses an alternator. While both units produce electricity there are wide differences in their system design. A dynamo used in a generator is built to withstand long running times of continuous electrical output. The alternator of a car is not designed to be continuously energized for long intervals. By placing a large load on a car battery it may cause the alternator to energize continuously and overheat with damage to itself and perhaps other electrical circuits in the vehicle. There is something to be said about using the right tool for the job and a car was not designed to provide power to power tools. A 120V power tool will utilize 10 times the power that its 12V counterpart would utilize. The power draw on the car's system would be larger than it was designed for. With the cost of car repairs now days I would think about it twice. On the other hand 120V a/c power travels very well through extension cords. It can travel long distances without any significant voltage loss. Would it be possible to run 2 or 3 long extension cords from the closest outlet to where you are or are there any obstructions? Perhaps you could rent them.I haven't gotten the sense that anyone's ever tried the car battery inverter route. Seems to me, a generator is just a gas engine driving an inverter. I already have a gas engine on my car, so why buy another gas motor to drag around?
I agree..An inexpensive long extension cord can be made from a 250 ft roll of 12-2 household wire and a couple of plugs. The 12 gauge wire should be enough to prevent too much of a voltage drop. Indoor rated wire is less expensive than outdoor rated wire. Indoor will work fine, just don't leave it out in the sun for days on end or in the rain. Cost will be about $60 for wire and plugs.
Problem with the 30 Amp plug is that it will only fit a 30A receptacle which should have a 30A breaker. 12 GA wire is only rated to 20A. But the point is well taken, there are cheap connectors and more robust heavy duty kinds of plugs and receptacles. If you want to get fancy, get a waterproof junction box and put a 20A receptacle in it.I agree..
With this distance the wire will handle it well but there will be a weak link at the plug and receptical where the "extension wire" plugs into the power source... 30amp connectors would be a good choice at this location.
Excellent post!There are certain differences, a generator uses a dynamo to produce power while a car uses an alternator. While both units produce electricity there are wide differences in their system design. A dynamo used in a generator is built to withstand long running times of continuous electrical output. The alternator of a car is not designed to be continuously energized for long intervals. By placing a large load on a car battery it may cause the alternator to energize continuously and overheat with damage to itself and perhaps other electrical circuits in the vehicle. There is something to be said about using the right tool for the job and a car was not designed to provide power to power tools. A 120V power tool will utilize 10 times the power that its 12V counterpart would utilize. The power draw on the car's system would be larger than it was designed for. With the cost of car repairs now days I would think about it twice. On the other hand 120V a/c power travels very well through extension cords. It can travel long distances without any significant voltage loss. Would it be possible to run 2 or 3 long extension cords from the closest outlet to where you are or are there any obstructions? Perhaps you could rent them.
And PROPANE!To the OP, this location modifies the E2000 to run on natural gas.
US Carburetion, Motor Snorkle - converts most generators (including the Honda 2000) to run on propane. DIY. If you have propane aboard, you already have the fuel. I quit using gasoline generators years ago for all the obvious fuel reasons.To the OP, this location modifies the E2000 to run on natural gas. That might be an alternative for you.
If you are only using the tools for short bursts it can work but it will suck the heck out of your battery and a car at idle won't do much to charge your battery. You will also run the risk of carbon monoxide getting under your cover with a car idling nearby. If the battery is alt all weak you will be tripping out on low voltage all day long. I work in many boatyards where the outlet is well in excess of 100' away so I own both an EU2000 and I have a rig with a G-31 battery and pure sine 2000W inverter. I do have a 10GA 100' extension cord and if I am within 100' I will use it but 12GA at 100' feet has a lot of voltage drop and my power tools don't like it and can struggle, especially the buffer... For most work my M12 Milwaukee tools suffice but for heat shrinking, sanding or any buffing work I need a more constant power source than a battery powered tool. If your loads are light then 300' of 10GA wire or three 100' 10GA extension cords would be less costly than an inverter or Honda, just don't try to pull mucho amps through it and you'd be fine. Expect to pay about $0.89 to $1.20 per foot for a 10GA extension cord or you can build your own too.I haven't gotten the sense that anyone's ever tried the car battery inverter route. Seems to me, a generator is just a gas engine driving an inverter. I already have a gas engine on my car, so why buy another gas motor to drag around?
Thanks for all the input.