I have a 1984 Hunter 25.5 which I bought recently and suspect that the water system has been idle for some time. Any suggesttions on how I can get it cleaned out and in order to use? Are there any chemicals to use, how do I flush the system, etc.?
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Water
Lots of stuff in the archives on this subject - better yet get the book by Peggie Hall-Head Mistress. Peggy moderates a forum just for topics like heads and water systems.
Lots of stuff in the archives on this subject - better yet get the book by Peggie Hall-Head Mistress. Peggy moderates a forum just for topics like heads and water systems.
Bleach
Add heavy dose of bleach to water tank and than do many flushes through all outlets,also let bleach mix sit in system repeat this a few times and do same with fresh water.
Add heavy dose of bleach to water tank and than do many flushes through all outlets,also let bleach mix sit in system repeat this a few times and do same with fresh water.
If you check the archives you will find the...
following: Recommission the system by Peggie Hall Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people and even some boat manufacturers believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those critters. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that is really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
following: Recommission the system by Peggie Hall Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people and even some boat manufacturers believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those critters. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that is really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
No Drinking for Me.
I never drink the on-board/domestic water on any boat. But I will shower, shave or brush my teeth with it. I'd rather carry aboard bottled water and drink that.
I never drink the on-board/domestic water on any boat. But I will shower, shave or brush my teeth with it. I'd rather carry aboard bottled water and drink that.
Install a filter
Tank water will ALWAYS taste a bit funky. I used to carry bottled water but it takes up space as do all the empty plastic bottles and it's a pain to carry to the boat. I installed a GE undersink filter from Home Depot with its own spout right next to the kitchen sink. It cost around $60, took 1/2 hour to install and removes 100% of the tank taste. I use straight tank water for everything except drinking and cooking. You should probably recommission per Peggy's instructions but you should absolutely install the filter for drinking water.
Tank water will ALWAYS taste a bit funky. I used to carry bottled water but it takes up space as do all the empty plastic bottles and it's a pain to carry to the boat. I installed a GE undersink filter from Home Depot with its own spout right next to the kitchen sink. It cost around $60, took 1/2 hour to install and removes 100% of the tank taste. I use straight tank water for everything except drinking and cooking. You should probably recommission per Peggy's instructions but you should absolutely install the filter for drinking water.
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