I'm looking at 27 footers as a first boat, probably a late 70's model. Most have inboards, predominantly gas, although some are diesel. Being a newbie, I very much want a dependable engine. I don't like the idea of sailing into a slip with only 6 hours in the log book. I like the idea of an outboard because they're usually newer, or they can be replaced with brand-new for a third of the cost of an inboard replacement. Overall, I like the inboards though. I know there are lotsa and lotsa variables, but any thoughts on reliabilty and life span for these old engines? Diesel more reliable than gas overall, or at that age anyway? Just play it safe and go with an outboard?
- Status
Tough Question
Hi Matt: The question your asking will be hard to answer, mainly because the life of any engine, gas or diesel depends entirely on the maintenance and upkeep that was preformed by the previous and or current owner. I've seen high hour engines, both gas and diesel that were in excellant shape, but opposed to that, I've seen fairly low hour engines that were good for nothing but anchors. In both instances, maintenance or the lack of, was the reason for the condition of the engine. I'm afraid that there is no magic bullet here. There are arguments for both gas and diesel. Gas engines are cheaper than diesel, in cost and repair, but can be tickier as boat engines sometimes set up for long periods of time between use and unless proper care is taken, are prone to carburation problems. Moisture also causes problems in the ignition systems, so it get's back to proper maintenance. In addition, some folks like me just don't want gas on a boat. Diesels are more expensive, but are tougher and normally longer lasting, even when neglected, and as they operate without an ignition, are a less complex engine. There is also a less likelyhood of fire/explosion with diesel, BUT, are more expensive to repair in the event it's needed. I have a 21 year old boat with a diesel engine that runs like brand new, however, it has always had very good maintenance. Unfortunately, this is not the case in a lot of instances. Based on your obvious concerns about the engine, I would suggest that whatever decision you make, unless you go with a new motor, extra precautions be taken as to having the engine checked by a qualified mechanic. Tough decision Pal, Good Luck!!
Hi Matt: The question your asking will be hard to answer, mainly because the life of any engine, gas or diesel depends entirely on the maintenance and upkeep that was preformed by the previous and or current owner. I've seen high hour engines, both gas and diesel that were in excellant shape, but opposed to that, I've seen fairly low hour engines that were good for nothing but anchors. In both instances, maintenance or the lack of, was the reason for the condition of the engine. I'm afraid that there is no magic bullet here. There are arguments for both gas and diesel. Gas engines are cheaper than diesel, in cost and repair, but can be tickier as boat engines sometimes set up for long periods of time between use and unless proper care is taken, are prone to carburation problems. Moisture also causes problems in the ignition systems, so it get's back to proper maintenance. In addition, some folks like me just don't want gas on a boat. Diesels are more expensive, but are tougher and normally longer lasting, even when neglected, and as they operate without an ignition, are a less complex engine. There is also a less likelyhood of fire/explosion with diesel, BUT, are more expensive to repair in the event it's needed. I have a 21 year old boat with a diesel engine that runs like brand new, however, it has always had very good maintenance. Unfortunately, this is not the case in a lot of instances. Based on your obvious concerns about the engine, I would suggest that whatever decision you make, unless you go with a new motor, extra precautions be taken as to having the engine checked by a qualified mechanic. Tough decision Pal, Good Luck!!
Inboard is probably more suitable
Assuming you are looking at boats with engines that are known to be in good condition, I wouldn't make the type of engine the deciding factor when you find boats that you like (unless you happen to run into a pair of boats for sale at the same price that are identical except for the engine - highly unlikely!). Like you, I do not have much experience with engines for sailboats so you can toss my recommendation out if you like. If you are going to be sailing on the great lakes which can be in rough conditions, you probably should have an inboard (gas or diesel). Personally, I don't like the looks of an engine hanging off the back of a sailboat and operating an outboard from a sailboat looks very awkward to me, so I wouldn't want to have one. Based on my long exerience with ski boats, I think there is no disadvantage in having a gasoline inboard. I wouldn't hesitate to own one. Granted, my experience is based on 8 cylinders and 260 hp vs. a much smaller (say 30 hp) engine for a sailboat. I've heard that sailboat owners prefer diesel and that can affect re-sale but I wouldn't know yet. Most of the older boats that we shopped for had inboards that had recently been re-built or even replaced, so I would be a little concerned about an inboard that is over 20 years without an overhaul. The 27' - 20 year old boat that we bought has a re-built 10 hp Yanmar diesel. It may be a little small for the boat because the PO wore it out fighting the tide on the Shrewsbury River heading in and out of Sandy Hook Bay. We don't have that concern, being on a small lake. My wife calls her chitti-chitti-bang-bang. I don't like the sound of a diesel but I hear they are very reliable. They seem oily to me and I like the sound of a gasoline engine better. I also can't find a place on the lake to fill up with diesel so I have to use a jerry can, but that is an incidental issue, since I will fill up maybe once or twice a year. Good luck with your search!
Assuming you are looking at boats with engines that are known to be in good condition, I wouldn't make the type of engine the deciding factor when you find boats that you like (unless you happen to run into a pair of boats for sale at the same price that are identical except for the engine - highly unlikely!). Like you, I do not have much experience with engines for sailboats so you can toss my recommendation out if you like. If you are going to be sailing on the great lakes which can be in rough conditions, you probably should have an inboard (gas or diesel). Personally, I don't like the looks of an engine hanging off the back of a sailboat and operating an outboard from a sailboat looks very awkward to me, so I wouldn't want to have one. Based on my long exerience with ski boats, I think there is no disadvantage in having a gasoline inboard. I wouldn't hesitate to own one. Granted, my experience is based on 8 cylinders and 260 hp vs. a much smaller (say 30 hp) engine for a sailboat. I've heard that sailboat owners prefer diesel and that can affect re-sale but I wouldn't know yet. Most of the older boats that we shopped for had inboards that had recently been re-built or even replaced, so I would be a little concerned about an inboard that is over 20 years without an overhaul. The 27' - 20 year old boat that we bought has a re-built 10 hp Yanmar diesel. It may be a little small for the boat because the PO wore it out fighting the tide on the Shrewsbury River heading in and out of Sandy Hook Bay. We don't have that concern, being on a small lake. My wife calls her chitti-chitti-bang-bang. I don't like the sound of a diesel but I hear they are very reliable. They seem oily to me and I like the sound of a gasoline engine better. I also can't find a place on the lake to fill up with diesel so I have to use a jerry can, but that is an incidental issue, since I will fill up maybe once or twice a year. Good luck with your search!
25 to 30 years
Hi Matt, What is engine life? - not easy to answer. Certianly check compression. Another is oil consumption but that requires 20 hours+ run time. Engine hours before valve / ring / bearings - 2000 to 5000 depending on mfg. Most aux engines run less than 100 hours / year. My boat is 26 years old and has `500 hours. Know another boater with gas engine that's over 40 years old. Friend replaced atomic 4 2 years ago with a new drop in diesel and loves it. No problem with atomic 4 - he planned on a lot more cruising and felt it was time. Outboards and gas inboards are quiet. Diesel better range and safer fuel. I would only consider diesel inboard. Know the tradeoffs like more $, more noise. Good Luck, Bob
Hi Matt, What is engine life? - not easy to answer. Certianly check compression. Another is oil consumption but that requires 20 hours+ run time. Engine hours before valve / ring / bearings - 2000 to 5000 depending on mfg. Most aux engines run less than 100 hours / year. My boat is 26 years old and has `500 hours. Know another boater with gas engine that's over 40 years old. Friend replaced atomic 4 2 years ago with a new drop in diesel and loves it. No problem with atomic 4 - he planned on a lot more cruising and felt it was time. Outboards and gas inboards are quiet. Diesel better range and safer fuel. I would only consider diesel inboard. Know the tradeoffs like more $, more noise. Good Luck, Bob
Don't be afraid of gas inboards
A good reference for an Atomic 4 is Moyer Marine. They do all sorts of great things with and for A4 engines. Stu They're on the web at guess where?
A good reference for an Atomic 4 is Moyer Marine. They do all sorts of great things with and for A4 engines. Stu They're on the web at guess where?
What kind of sailing?
Since we both sail on the Great Lakes I feel compelled to chime in. Unless you only daysail in ideal conditions you will want a heavier displacement boat. With a boat that can handle anything but a Lake Michigan/Lake Erie offshore breeze you will want an inboard diesel. My 1979 Yanmar has been all over the Great Lakes towing a dinghy AND a jetski(previous owners). I have no idea of the hours but she still looks new and runs like a top. There is nothing wrong with limiting yourself to a fast, trailerable, light displacement boat. They are fun to sail, can be used to explore other lakes, and much cheaper to operate. For that you would only need an outboard.
Since we both sail on the Great Lakes I feel compelled to chime in. Unless you only daysail in ideal conditions you will want a heavier displacement boat. With a boat that can handle anything but a Lake Michigan/Lake Erie offshore breeze you will want an inboard diesel. My 1979 Yanmar has been all over the Great Lakes towing a dinghy AND a jetski(previous owners). I have no idea of the hours but she still looks new and runs like a top. There is nothing wrong with limiting yourself to a fast, trailerable, light displacement boat. They are fun to sail, can be used to explore other lakes, and much cheaper to operate. For that you would only need an outboard.
Ed - What model Yanmar?
I have a 1978 vintage 2QM15 and am always looking for other owners to share knowledge. David
I have a 1978 vintage 2QM15 and am always looking for other owners to share knowledge. David
Outboards on keelboats
When you start getting into sailboats that size, outboards stop being efficient propulsion units. First off, outboards are generally set up for high revs and light displacement or planing hulls. You can spin the prop a lot, "eggbeater" style, without getting much out of it, trying to push a heavy displacement hull. Secondly, placement of the unit on the transom leads to some problems. 1/weight 'way aft, where you don't want it, because it increases the pitching of the hull and makes the boat squat on her lines aft, slowing her down under sail as well. Thirdly, depending upon the boat, getting a shaft long enough may be a problem. In a head-sea situation, trying to plow to windward, imagine the prop coming out of the water on each wave. The longer the shaft on the outboard, the stronger the transom mount needs to be in order to deal with the forces of the weight of the engine and the push of the propellor. This means more weight aft - exactly what you don't want. This is why inboards are used in larger, heavier boats. Not to say that outboards aren't used on things like some J/29's and such, but they're an exception because they're relatively light boats.
When you start getting into sailboats that size, outboards stop being efficient propulsion units. First off, outboards are generally set up for high revs and light displacement or planing hulls. You can spin the prop a lot, "eggbeater" style, without getting much out of it, trying to push a heavy displacement hull. Secondly, placement of the unit on the transom leads to some problems. 1/weight 'way aft, where you don't want it, because it increases the pitching of the hull and makes the boat squat on her lines aft, slowing her down under sail as well. Thirdly, depending upon the boat, getting a shaft long enough may be a problem. In a head-sea situation, trying to plow to windward, imagine the prop coming out of the water on each wave. The longer the shaft on the outboard, the stronger the transom mount needs to be in order to deal with the forces of the weight of the engine and the push of the propellor. This means more weight aft - exactly what you don't want. This is why inboards are used in larger, heavier boats. Not to say that outboards aren't used on things like some J/29's and such, but they're an exception because they're relatively light boats.
Same Problem
Matt, I am going through the same thing. I just bought a 1971 Ericson 29 with the original Atomic 4. It's oil is milky and is just plain old. It was supposedly rebuilt within the last 2 years but I have not tested it out so not sure how good shape it is in. If it is in bad shape, it only has so many years left in it anyway, I am really leaning towards an outboard. I do not plan on just bolting a bracket to the back but building a motor well out of fiberglassed 3/4 inch plywood. I figure this will look nicer, spread the load out on the transom more and allow me to tip the motor out of the water. I thought about the weight consideration and hope it balances out. I would completely remove the old enging and shaft and related components removing a couple hundred pounds from the boat. This weight is aft of the centerline so putting the weight of an outboard off the transom should somewhat balance this out. On a 9000 pound boat a hundred pound outboard on the back compared to 4 or 5 adults in the cockpit can't be much worse. It also allows me to close up 3 holes in the hull for the shaft, intake and water exhaust. I found the following links which are really helping me prefer this path. I will need to replace the inboard on mine at some point and going diesel is 7-10k. My biggest and really only concern is the prop lifting out of the water in swells. I only plan on motoring on and off my slip and in no wind so this somewhat lessens this concern. Good Luck and smooth sailing! http://www.atomvoyages.com/projects/outboard.htm
Matt, I am going through the same thing. I just bought a 1971 Ericson 29 with the original Atomic 4. It's oil is milky and is just plain old. It was supposedly rebuilt within the last 2 years but I have not tested it out so not sure how good shape it is in. If it is in bad shape, it only has so many years left in it anyway, I am really leaning towards an outboard. I do not plan on just bolting a bracket to the back but building a motor well out of fiberglassed 3/4 inch plywood. I figure this will look nicer, spread the load out on the transom more and allow me to tip the motor out of the water. I thought about the weight consideration and hope it balances out. I would completely remove the old enging and shaft and related components removing a couple hundred pounds from the boat. This weight is aft of the centerline so putting the weight of an outboard off the transom should somewhat balance this out. On a 9000 pound boat a hundred pound outboard on the back compared to 4 or 5 adults in the cockpit can't be much worse. It also allows me to close up 3 holes in the hull for the shaft, intake and water exhaust. I found the following links which are really helping me prefer this path. I will need to replace the inboard on mine at some point and going diesel is 7-10k. My biggest and really only concern is the prop lifting out of the water in swells. I only plan on motoring on and off my slip and in no wind so this somewhat lessens this concern. Good Luck and smooth sailing! http://www.atomvoyages.com/projects/outboard.htm
2QM20 David.
My 18000# H37C has the original 2QM20. Yes, it is definitely underpowered. Late in the 1979 model year they switched to the 3QM30. But for 90% of my sailing conditions it is adequate. And that is with a two-blade folding prop(Flex-O-Fold). I just have to make sure I never get into storm conditions near a lee shore. That 2QM20 is definitely not going cut it.
My 18000# H37C has the original 2QM20. Yes, it is definitely underpowered. Late in the 1979 model year they switched to the 3QM30. But for 90% of my sailing conditions it is adequate. And that is with a two-blade folding prop(Flex-O-Fold). I just have to make sure I never get into storm conditions near a lee shore. That 2QM20 is definitely not going cut it.
Diesel Inboard
Matt, FYI, our 1986 C34 has a 21 hp inboard diesel, Universal M-25, with, now 1,600 engine hours. A friend with a 1988 model has over 4,000 engine hours on his M25XP, a 23 HP version of the same engine. I had a C25 with an outboard from 1987 to 1998. I put off buying an inboard engine boat for years because of my "fear" of maintenance on a diesel. Once I got the boat, I learned how to operate, maintain and fix the engine, put in a new heat exchanger, new raw water pump, and all the other "keep-it-up" maintenance goodies. You CAN do it. Sure, taking the outboard off and getting it fixed is easier, but you don't do that with your car, so why not LEARN how it works and keep up the maintenance. Properly taken care of, they pretty much last forever. Please also see my post about Moyer Marine above, which says the same thing for gas inboards. Unless you're going to cross oceans or do some serious offshore or coast-wise cruising, the "distance" advantage of diesels over gas shouldn't make a difference to you or any other "baisc" cruiser. Good luck, Stu
Matt, FYI, our 1986 C34 has a 21 hp inboard diesel, Universal M-25, with, now 1,600 engine hours. A friend with a 1988 model has over 4,000 engine hours on his M25XP, a 23 HP version of the same engine. I had a C25 with an outboard from 1987 to 1998. I put off buying an inboard engine boat for years because of my "fear" of maintenance on a diesel. Once I got the boat, I learned how to operate, maintain and fix the engine, put in a new heat exchanger, new raw water pump, and all the other "keep-it-up" maintenance goodies. You CAN do it. Sure, taking the outboard off and getting it fixed is easier, but you don't do that with your car, so why not LEARN how it works and keep up the maintenance. Properly taken care of, they pretty much last forever. Please also see my post about Moyer Marine above, which says the same thing for gas inboards. Unless you're going to cross oceans or do some serious offshore or coast-wise cruising, the "distance" advantage of diesels over gas shouldn't make a difference to you or any other "baisc" cruiser. Good luck, Stu
Sounds like you want a CS 27
Matt, your thought process was similar to mine when I finally moved up from a Laser and Siren to a 27 foot keel boat. But after 4 years with a now 29 year old diesel I don't give outboards a second thought, other than how out-of-place they look on the transom of a sailboat. I also no longer worry about the reliability of such an old engine. Most of the under 27 footers at our club use outboards and there are also a lot of old Atomics in 27 foot and larger boats. So both appear to be acceptable choices to a lot of boaters. I think engines probably have a longer life here on the fresh water Great Lakes (I am on Ontario), yet most of the boating press we have access to highlites the shorter lifespans of gear used in salt water, be it engines or rigging, whatever. I think the biggest problem you face is do you buy a 27 footer that was designed and sold to carry an outboard, or one that was designed and sold with an inboard. On the former the transom was designed for an outboard (some Catalina 27s and the Tanzer 27 come to mind...they will usually have a low and straight transom, with an engine mount cutout in the case of the Catalina) but on the later give some thought to where you would hang a motor mount if the transom is high, or its reversed. Also, what is the resale market for an inboard built boat with a motor bracket hanging off the transom. Now for my CS 27 pitch. Since you are looking at 27 foot Great Lakes boats you'll be looking at C&C, CS, Tanzer, Catalina etc. Most of these boats came with a number of different engine choices, but the CS 27 throughout its production run (1975-1983) used single cyl. Yanmar diesels YSE8, YSB8, YSM8, SB8). These engines are legendary for their reliability (as well as their noise and shaking) and I have yet to run into a CS 27 that has replaced its engine. Most appear to have never even had a rebuild, and this on an engine with no guages, air filter, oil filter etc., but with a hand crank for starting manually should your batteries be dead. After four years on Lake Ontario I'd recommend an inboard. If the engines are the same age I'd go with diesel over gas. Kevin
Matt, your thought process was similar to mine when I finally moved up from a Laser and Siren to a 27 foot keel boat. But after 4 years with a now 29 year old diesel I don't give outboards a second thought, other than how out-of-place they look on the transom of a sailboat. I also no longer worry about the reliability of such an old engine. Most of the under 27 footers at our club use outboards and there are also a lot of old Atomics in 27 foot and larger boats. So both appear to be acceptable choices to a lot of boaters. I think engines probably have a longer life here on the fresh water Great Lakes (I am on Ontario), yet most of the boating press we have access to highlites the shorter lifespans of gear used in salt water, be it engines or rigging, whatever. I think the biggest problem you face is do you buy a 27 footer that was designed and sold to carry an outboard, or one that was designed and sold with an inboard. On the former the transom was designed for an outboard (some Catalina 27s and the Tanzer 27 come to mind...they will usually have a low and straight transom, with an engine mount cutout in the case of the Catalina) but on the later give some thought to where you would hang a motor mount if the transom is high, or its reversed. Also, what is the resale market for an inboard built boat with a motor bracket hanging off the transom. Now for my CS 27 pitch. Since you are looking at 27 foot Great Lakes boats you'll be looking at C&C, CS, Tanzer, Catalina etc. Most of these boats came with a number of different engine choices, but the CS 27 throughout its production run (1975-1983) used single cyl. Yanmar diesels YSE8, YSB8, YSM8, SB8). These engines are legendary for their reliability (as well as their noise and shaking) and I have yet to run into a CS 27 that has replaced its engine. Most appear to have never even had a rebuild, and this on an engine with no guages, air filter, oil filter etc., but with a hand crank for starting manually should your batteries be dead. After four years on Lake Ontario I'd recommend an inboard. If the engines are the same age I'd go with diesel over gas. Kevin
Decisions, decisions...
Don’t ya have to love the Internet? How else can you get instant opinions, feedback, advice, and anecdotes on any ole subject you’re interested in? Thanks again all. I agree with most, in that an inboard is preferable, and in that size (27) I find more inboards available than outboards anyway. Hopefully I’ve done enough research to be able to tell the difference between worn-out and good-to-go, although I wish they could be taken for a test run.
Don’t ya have to love the Internet? How else can you get instant opinions, feedback, advice, and anecdotes on any ole subject you’re interested in? Thanks again all. I agree with most, in that an inboard is preferable, and in that size (27) I find more inboards available than outboards anyway. Hopefully I’ve done enough research to be able to tell the difference between worn-out and good-to-go, although I wish they could be taken for a test run.
Outboards have advantages
My previous boat had a 1972 Honda Outboard performed flawlessly. I rasied it out of the water to get rid of drag. I have been waiting for over a month to get a mechanic to fix my diesel engine!!! The coupling bolts broke while on a trip and the mechanic at Port Saint Joe Marina charged over $300.00 to fix it. Well it only stayed fixed two days. Finding a good mechanic to fix stuff s hard. A mechanic came highly recommended but said that he didn't have the time and he recommemended another mechanic. After he sat on the jobfor 2 weeks he said that he was too busy but recommended another mechanic who has sat on the job for another two weeks. He called last night and said that it was fixed....I've heard that before. In the ocean another problem is fouled props. My prop and shaft foul every few months and I have to go down and scrape off the barnacles. You also have to use zincs to prevent corrosion. With an outboard you just lift it out of the water!!!!! I guess having an outboard that gave me 7 years of trouble free service has spoiled me on the joys of a diesel.
My previous boat had a 1972 Honda Outboard performed flawlessly. I rasied it out of the water to get rid of drag. I have been waiting for over a month to get a mechanic to fix my diesel engine!!! The coupling bolts broke while on a trip and the mechanic at Port Saint Joe Marina charged over $300.00 to fix it. Well it only stayed fixed two days. Finding a good mechanic to fix stuff s hard. A mechanic came highly recommended but said that he didn't have the time and he recommemended another mechanic. After he sat on the jobfor 2 weeks he said that he was too busy but recommended another mechanic who has sat on the job for another two weeks. He called last night and said that it was fixed....I've heard that before. In the ocean another problem is fouled props. My prop and shaft foul every few months and I have to go down and scrape off the barnacles. You also have to use zincs to prevent corrosion. With an outboard you just lift it out of the water!!!!! I guess having an outboard that gave me 7 years of trouble free service has spoiled me on the joys of a diesel.
Engine history...
...as stated previously is extremely important. There are alot of people out ther who will buy a boat just because it has a low time Diesel and never give one thought as to how well the engine was maintained. Diesels will run happily and flawlessly for many years provided all maintenance has been performed PROPERLY. Properly is the key. Too many times an owner who does not want to part with a buck will do their own work with absolutely no understanding of things mechanical. What may appear to be the right thing to do can turn your life into a living hell. Then, after you've spent a few hundred of your hard-earned money, you finally break down and hire a mechanic who now has to deal with the mess you've created AND still fix the original problem. Folks who get themselves into this situation rapidly declare they got screwed by the mechanic, when in fact, YOUR solution was either merely a band-aid fix or totally wrong in the first place. I will not argue the point that a good mechanic is sometimes difficult to find, but if your local area is severely lacking in this department it would be to your benefit to attend some classes. The money spent on learning in a classroom/shop environment will pay dividends in the long run. Additionally, while there is a plethora of books on the market for self-learning, nothing can replace good old hands-on classroom experience. Bottom line is, a low-time engine (be it gas or Diesel) that has not had proper maintenance is no better than a high-time engine. To the contrary, I would prefer a high-time engine with a well documented maintenance history over a low-time engine that looks like it has been through the wringer and no documentation at all. As far as gas/Diesel, inboard/outboard preference? I prefer inboard Diesel. I get a better insurance rate by not having 30 gallons of gasoline onboard. Another point to ponder is the significant drop in the value of your boat when the inboard dies and you fix it by hanging an outboard on the stern. Cheers, Bob P.S. Just for S&G's, here are the stats for my re-power on my Nonsuch 30 Classic: OLD: Volvo MD11C W/Saildrive (1979) 2-Cyl/23hp 545 lbs Fuel = Diesel Fuel cons 1.25 GPH (approx) Cold Start = Compression release NEW: Volvo MD2030 W/Saildrive (2004) 3-Cyl/30hp 340 lbs Fuel = Diesel Fuel cons 0.50 GPH (approx) Cold Start = Glow plugs A 205 pound weight difference and a huge reduction in fuel consumption. Additionally, a much quieter and smoother running 3-cylinder as opposed to a noisy, bone-rattling 2-cylinder. And, as an added bonus, the new engine takes up roughly half the space making the engine compartment much easier to work in. Now factor in insurance savings for Diesel v. gas.
...as stated previously is extremely important. There are alot of people out ther who will buy a boat just because it has a low time Diesel and never give one thought as to how well the engine was maintained. Diesels will run happily and flawlessly for many years provided all maintenance has been performed PROPERLY. Properly is the key. Too many times an owner who does not want to part with a buck will do their own work with absolutely no understanding of things mechanical. What may appear to be the right thing to do can turn your life into a living hell. Then, after you've spent a few hundred of your hard-earned money, you finally break down and hire a mechanic who now has to deal with the mess you've created AND still fix the original problem. Folks who get themselves into this situation rapidly declare they got screwed by the mechanic, when in fact, YOUR solution was either merely a band-aid fix or totally wrong in the first place. I will not argue the point that a good mechanic is sometimes difficult to find, but if your local area is severely lacking in this department it would be to your benefit to attend some classes. The money spent on learning in a classroom/shop environment will pay dividends in the long run. Additionally, while there is a plethora of books on the market for self-learning, nothing can replace good old hands-on classroom experience. Bottom line is, a low-time engine (be it gas or Diesel) that has not had proper maintenance is no better than a high-time engine. To the contrary, I would prefer a high-time engine with a well documented maintenance history over a low-time engine that looks like it has been through the wringer and no documentation at all. As far as gas/Diesel, inboard/outboard preference? I prefer inboard Diesel. I get a better insurance rate by not having 30 gallons of gasoline onboard. Another point to ponder is the significant drop in the value of your boat when the inboard dies and you fix it by hanging an outboard on the stern. Cheers, Bob P.S. Just for S&G's, here are the stats for my re-power on my Nonsuch 30 Classic: OLD: Volvo MD11C W/Saildrive (1979) 2-Cyl/23hp 545 lbs Fuel = Diesel Fuel cons 1.25 GPH (approx) Cold Start = Compression release NEW: Volvo MD2030 W/Saildrive (2004) 3-Cyl/30hp 340 lbs Fuel = Diesel Fuel cons 0.50 GPH (approx) Cold Start = Glow plugs A 205 pound weight difference and a huge reduction in fuel consumption. Additionally, a much quieter and smoother running 3-cylinder as opposed to a noisy, bone-rattling 2-cylinder. And, as an added bonus, the new engine takes up roughly half the space making the engine compartment much easier to work in. Now factor in insurance savings for Diesel v. gas.
- Status