that is supposed to run from the power panel to (I assume) the compression post headliner area. I'm not able to see that pipe on either end... Also, is there one for the port side as well? Is there one from the power panel to the stern storage area behind the bulkhead with the doors in it? Thanks! -Tom M.
- Status
Great Question
I'm looking for the same thing on my 40. (a conduit between the compression post and the panel) Kevin
I'm looking for the same thing on my 40. (a conduit between the compression post and the panel) Kevin
Access to conduit
Tom, we had some previous postings on this around May 2002. I have tried to add the link below, so let me know if it works. You can also go to the archives and look for "Fishing wires in a H260" which was the original posting. I have not found a conduit on the port side yet. Anyone else see one? There is a conduit for wiring that is on the starboard side behind the 12 volt electrical panel. After removing battery connections of coarse, remove the 12 volt panel and look down from the panel area and you should be able to see it where the yellow negative wire runs into the forward end of it. It ends high up in the aft battery storage area but is probably filled at the aft end with foam from the boat assembly process. I was able to punch through the foam starting from the forward end with a standard electrical wire fishtape (to run 120 volt wiring for a couple GFCI outlets at the galley and head). As Crazy Dave mentioned a while ago, do yourself a big favor and temporarily remove the rear bulkhead that closes off the battery compartment and don't recaulk it. It makes running wiring and plumbing a lot easier when it is not there. Let us know how it goes.
Tom, we had some previous postings on this around May 2002. I have tried to add the link below, so let me know if it works. You can also go to the archives and look for "Fishing wires in a H260" which was the original posting. I have not found a conduit on the port side yet. Anyone else see one? There is a conduit for wiring that is on the starboard side behind the 12 volt electrical panel. After removing battery connections of coarse, remove the 12 volt panel and look down from the panel area and you should be able to see it where the yellow negative wire runs into the forward end of it. It ends high up in the aft battery storage area but is probably filled at the aft end with foam from the boat assembly process. I was able to punch through the foam starting from the forward end with a standard electrical wire fishtape (to run 120 volt wiring for a couple GFCI outlets at the galley and head). As Crazy Dave mentioned a while ago, do yourself a big favor and temporarily remove the rear bulkhead that closes off the battery compartment and don't recaulk it. It makes running wiring and plumbing a lot easier when it is not there. Let us know how it goes.
Wire to head?
Pat, how did you get the wire over to the head? I found the end of the tube to the area over the table but have not found any accessable path to the head. The tube to the access plate over the table starts just forward of the access plate in the headliner over the stove. From there it's an easy reach to the power panel. The tube to the stern locker is against the outer wall and can be reached from the access plate under the power panel. Inside the stern locker the tube ends up high and forward on the starboard side and will be full of foam on that end. I second the suggestion to remove the stern bulkhead. I about died trying to crawl through that little hatch to work inside before learning how easy it was to pull the bulkhead. Brigg
Pat, how did you get the wire over to the head? I found the end of the tube to the area over the table but have not found any accessable path to the head. The tube to the access plate over the table starts just forward of the access plate in the headliner over the stove. From there it's an easy reach to the power panel. The tube to the stern locker is against the outer wall and can be reached from the access plate under the power panel. Inside the stern locker the tube ends up high and forward on the starboard side and will be full of foam on that end. I second the suggestion to remove the stern bulkhead. I about died trying to crawl through that little hatch to work inside before learning how easy it was to pull the bulkhead. Brigg
Attachments
Pat, thankyou for the information and
the pointer to the archived articles. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right spots, I'll check again. Thanks. -Tom M.
the pointer to the archived articles. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right spots, I'll check again. Thanks. -Tom M.
wiring
I am not sure which wiring but Pat is correct to remove the bulkehead in the rear berth and follwo the wires from the battery through the foam which will lead to a conduit pipe leading to an area behind the electrical panel. If you are looking at the wires from the battery, you will notice a big fuse. For future reference, this is a 300 amp fuse which is a protective device in case of lightning. Also, note that the negative wires are now yellow and not black. Overhead the compression post on the starboard side, you will see a blue pipe for snaking wires to the back in an area forward of the electrical panel. You may see a string for use pulling wires but disregard that as you will never find the end of it. You can snake it but may have a difficult time on some boats as it may be crushed between the headliner and deck. This is the way the overhead ceiling light and deck light wires are run. If you can get a snake through that is the way to run vhf wire. Thank you Pat for advising those folks. Crazy Dave Condon
I am not sure which wiring but Pat is correct to remove the bulkehead in the rear berth and follwo the wires from the battery through the foam which will lead to a conduit pipe leading to an area behind the electrical panel. If you are looking at the wires from the battery, you will notice a big fuse. For future reference, this is a 300 amp fuse which is a protective device in case of lightning. Also, note that the negative wires are now yellow and not black. Overhead the compression post on the starboard side, you will see a blue pipe for snaking wires to the back in an area forward of the electrical panel. You may see a string for use pulling wires but disregard that as you will never find the end of it. You can snake it but may have a difficult time on some boats as it may be crushed between the headliner and deck. This is the way the overhead ceiling light and deck light wires are run. If you can get a snake through that is the way to run vhf wire. Thank you Pat for advising those folks. Crazy Dave Condon
Brigg - getting your head wired(?)
But first, concerning the aft bulkhead, before seeing some posts on this (great) website about removing that bulkhead, I spent most of last winter in that aft compartment wedged through that small starboard hatch installing a 120V Blue Sea panel, installing wiring for a second battery, deck wash system, etc. At times I thought that I too was going to become a fixture in there. Definitely needed confined space entry procedures. Getting wired: For wiring both an extended 12 volt system and a new 120 volt system, I ran the marine-grade (Ancor) wiring from the 120v panel and the 12 volt panel area inside the wall down to the storage area below the stove with 120V to a GFCI electrical box facing the aft berth, a 12V outlet at the stove and then ran both forward (installed another 120V GFCI forward of the galley sink), then ran both 12V and 120V lines through the conduit that holds the starboard water line towards the water tank (in the bow). I installed enclosed junction boxes (separately) for the 12V and 120V lines on the bulkhead above and aft of the water tank for future "boat necessities" like outlets under the saloon table and built-in A/C. From there I ran the lines to the head through the conduit that holds the port water line to the head. I installed the 12v outlet and the 120V GFCI outlet on the aft side of the sink cabinet. This works great for both 12v and 120V appliances in the head. A note of caution: In case you haven't seen the cautions in previous posts last year; if you are not trained and experienced with wiring 120v in the marine environment, leave it to a licensed professional, or have your self-installed system inspected (and upgraded)to ABYC specifications. In summer of 2001, two children died near here from faulty 120v wiring on a boat connected to shore power. I heard that lawsuits were filed. I am trying to post a picture of some of the wiring work, but since this is the first attempt, it may not succeed. I plan to post numerous pictures later of the boat projects as they are completed. TWO MONTHS UNTIL BOAT LAUNCHING HERE IN VIRGINIA! Pat
But first, concerning the aft bulkhead, before seeing some posts on this (great) website about removing that bulkhead, I spent most of last winter in that aft compartment wedged through that small starboard hatch installing a 120V Blue Sea panel, installing wiring for a second battery, deck wash system, etc. At times I thought that I too was going to become a fixture in there. Definitely needed confined space entry procedures. Getting wired: For wiring both an extended 12 volt system and a new 120 volt system, I ran the marine-grade (Ancor) wiring from the 120v panel and the 12 volt panel area inside the wall down to the storage area below the stove with 120V to a GFCI electrical box facing the aft berth, a 12V outlet at the stove and then ran both forward (installed another 120V GFCI forward of the galley sink), then ran both 12V and 120V lines through the conduit that holds the starboard water line towards the water tank (in the bow). I installed enclosed junction boxes (separately) for the 12V and 120V lines on the bulkhead above and aft of the water tank for future "boat necessities" like outlets under the saloon table and built-in A/C. From there I ran the lines to the head through the conduit that holds the port water line to the head. I installed the 12v outlet and the 120V GFCI outlet on the aft side of the sink cabinet. This works great for both 12v and 120V appliances in the head. A note of caution: In case you haven't seen the cautions in previous posts last year; if you are not trained and experienced with wiring 120v in the marine environment, leave it to a licensed professional, or have your self-installed system inspected (and upgraded)to ABYC specifications. In summer of 2001, two children died near here from faulty 120v wiring on a boat connected to shore power. I heard that lawsuits were filed. I am trying to post a picture of some of the wiring work, but since this is the first attempt, it may not succeed. I plan to post numerous pictures later of the boat projects as they are completed. TWO MONTHS UNTIL BOAT LAUNCHING HERE IN VIRGINIA! Pat
Thanks Pat
Pat; I read and appreciate your response to installation of the electrical. If the person who is installing does not know what they are doing, you are so correct. I remember a miswired dock at a resort at Smith Mountian Lake, VA as the son of a friend of mine was killed. I agree with you as too often I have found and re did the job as wiring was not done correctly. What part of the Potomac do you sail. At one pooint years ago, I helped to form a Hunter fleet but they have disbanded since then. Crazy Dave Condon
Pat; I read and appreciate your response to installation of the electrical. If the person who is installing does not know what they are doing, you are so correct. I remember a miswired dock at a resort at Smith Mountian Lake, VA as the son of a friend of mine was killed. I agree with you as too often I have found and re did the job as wiring was not done correctly. What part of the Potomac do you sail. At one pooint years ago, I helped to form a Hunter fleet but they have disbanded since then. Crazy Dave Condon
Sailing Potomac
Pat, I sail out of Aquia Creek, and am usually between Quantico and Fairview Beach. Where are you? Ray
Pat, I sail out of Aquia Creek, and am usually between Quantico and Fairview Beach. Where are you? Ray
Wire Conduit
Dear Tom, last year I went through the same problem trying to run my VHF wire from the compression post back to the electrical panel. It truly is a very tough job but the wire conduit is there. If you start at the compression post by removing the access panel look towards the aft of the boat and you will see wires going into the conduit. If you look carefully, and if you are lucky, you may also find a white, braided nylon courtsey/drag line coming out of, and taped to the outside of, the conduit. Once you have located, and confirmed the existance of this conduit, you can be sure that it exits near the power panel. Unfortunately, however, its a lot more difficult to gain access at the power palel. If I remember correctly, I had to remove not only the power panel but also the cover for the safety line stanchion. You can then follow the power lines back from the panel up and back passing the stanchion access port and, if you place a small mirror into that access panel, you will be able to see the wires go into the conduit. Note that because of sprayed foam, the conduit may be blocked or partially hidden but it is there. Work your way up there following the wire, break away the foam and, hopefully, you will be able to see and feel the dray line. Remember, if you use the drag line to pull the VHF wire through, remember to put another drag line on the VHF wire so when the project is finished you are still left with another drag line in the conduit for the next project. Regards, Bob
Dear Tom, last year I went through the same problem trying to run my VHF wire from the compression post back to the electrical panel. It truly is a very tough job but the wire conduit is there. If you start at the compression post by removing the access panel look towards the aft of the boat and you will see wires going into the conduit. If you look carefully, and if you are lucky, you may also find a white, braided nylon courtsey/drag line coming out of, and taped to the outside of, the conduit. Once you have located, and confirmed the existance of this conduit, you can be sure that it exits near the power panel. Unfortunately, however, its a lot more difficult to gain access at the power palel. If I remember correctly, I had to remove not only the power panel but also the cover for the safety line stanchion. You can then follow the power lines back from the panel up and back passing the stanchion access port and, if you place a small mirror into that access panel, you will be able to see the wires go into the conduit. Note that because of sprayed foam, the conduit may be blocked or partially hidden but it is there. Work your way up there following the wire, break away the foam and, hopefully, you will be able to see and feel the dray line. Remember, if you use the drag line to pull the VHF wire through, remember to put another drag line on the VHF wire so when the project is finished you are still left with another drag line in the conduit for the next project. Regards, Bob
Response to Crazy Dave and Ray,
We have been sailing from Potomac Creek towards the east mostly to Nanjemoy Creek in MD. We have sailed North and powered up Aquia Creek to near the railroad overpass, but we have not dropped the mast to go any further. Great areas to tow the kayaks to and explore miles of small creeks and marsh land. Ray, I seem to recall from one of your previous postings that you need to drop your mast to clear the railroad overpass to go to the Potomac. The wind wasn't all that strong in 2002 on the Potomac when we were in town, but there were many nice evenings on the hook in Aquia Creek and Potomac Creek. We will be looking for you (H-260/26?) next spring.
We have been sailing from Potomac Creek towards the east mostly to Nanjemoy Creek in MD. We have sailed North and powered up Aquia Creek to near the railroad overpass, but we have not dropped the mast to go any further. Great areas to tow the kayaks to and explore miles of small creeks and marsh land. Ray, I seem to recall from one of your previous postings that you need to drop your mast to clear the railroad overpass to go to the Potomac. The wind wasn't all that strong in 2002 on the Potomac when we were in town, but there were many nice evenings on the hook in Aquia Creek and Potomac Creek. We will be looking for you (H-260/26?) next spring.
See you in the Spring
Pat, I sail out of Aquia Harbour, which is about 5 miles upstream from the bridge. I have a 1998 H260 ("Sand Dollar"), and we are usually on the wide part of the creek or on the Potomac on week-ends. We plan to do more overnights this year on the hook in Aquia Creek. We will be looking for you out there this Spring. Ray
Pat, I sail out of Aquia Harbour, which is about 5 miles upstream from the bridge. I have a 1998 H260 ("Sand Dollar"), and we are usually on the wide part of the creek or on the Potomac on week-ends. We plan to do more overnights this year on the hook in Aquia Creek. We will be looking for you out there this Spring. Ray
- Status