Oil Pressure Alarm

[Albanach]

Could one of the Universal XPB experts perhaps help me out of a very frustrating phase.
Recently one of the prongs of my Oil Pressure Switch broke off and set the alarm off. After chasing all over Sydney to find a similar replacement, I find now (after also discovering that I could have bought an original unit from Torresen’s in the US at about half the price, including freight) I cannot silence the alarm:

New Oil Pressure Switch
Prong 1(P1)

(closed circuit)

Prong 2 (P2)

(open circuit)
Prong 3(P3)
Scenario A:
Existing 2 wires connected to P1 and P3 respectively (circuit open).
Result: 1.When switching the ignition on, the alarm sounds.
2. When starting + running engine, alarm continues to sound.
Checks: At stage 1. the circuit is still open with the wires showing 12V and about 8V
respectively.
At stage 2. the wires show about 13V each, with the readings fluctuating due to
shaky ground connection whilst engine running. This would mean that the oil
switch has closed, oil pressure is ok and that current is flowing to the fuel lift pump.
So, why is the alarm still sounding and the oil warning light showing? I thought
that when the lift receives full current, the alarm cancels. (Can’t hear over engine
noise whether the fuel pump is running)
Scenario B:
Existing 2 wires connected to P1 and P2 respectively (closed circuit).
Result: 1.When switching ignition on, no alarm. But the fuel pump is ticking over.
2. When starting + running engine, alarm sounds.
At stage 1. the wires show about 12V each. Did not check at stage 2.because it was a closed circuit.
Obviously, the fuel pump received enough current to cancel the alarm. So, why would the alarm and oil light start when the engine is running? It could not have been caused by lack of oil pressure, as the switch has effectively been by-passed.
What am I missing? The problem seems to be caused by something other than the oil switch. Have trolled the forums, but have not seen anything that might explain this. Any comments would be very much appreciated.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Are you absolutely sure you connected the wires correctly?

 

[paulj]

Albanach

My oil switch too was broken at the tab and it was replace with this type.


This model is hard to install because you needed a wrench to tighten , not much room for wrench clearance,
instead of the other type of oil switch which you installed with a deep socket wrench.

Bottom line

I would get another oil switch just to make sure the new one you installed wasn't a bad one.


paulj :troll:

 

[Stu Jackson]

Just occurred to me: if it is broken, remove it and return it and buy the less expensive one from Torrensen.

 

[Witzend]

Is the buzz pulsing or on solid after the engine is running?

 

[gpd955]

Is the buzz pulsing or on solid after the engine is running?

My buzz started pulsing on Friday. What does it mean? Didn't think anything of it until I saw this post.

 

[Albanach]

Oil Pressure Alarm
Solved the problem: Spoke to the switch supplier, who advised that it is a dual purpose switch that can be used for closed or open circuits-depending on wiring. It appeared he marked the prongs wrongly for my purpose and even though I tried other combinations, did not hit on the lucky one. Only get a slight and different buzz sound now, when at about 2300RPM, which disappears when reducing RPM or increasing it – up to 3200. Therefore ignoring this as it could be a slightly loose temperature connection.
Many thanks for trying to assist in this.

GPD - pulsating alarm is sent by oil pressure switch circuit being open, ie. no oil pressure. In my case, one of the switch's lugs had broken off.
If that has happened to you, suggest follow paulj's advice and buy the 'original' one with two lugs and screw top - less complications.

 

[gpd955]

When mine broke off it sounded a continuous pulsating alarm and I replaced it with the original from Westerbeke. Now I'm getting the pulsating alarm when I turn the key to the start position before I push the button. So of course, I start worrying that something else is wrong, now. And since there is no oil pressure at that time, I guess I'm overthinking it....as usual!

Thanks!

 

[Witzend]

The way my C310 behaves:
If the engine is cold, the buzzer sounds solid. If you have run the engine and it is hot, and then shut it off, and you turn the key back on after a few minutes, it pulses because the alarm is now being told it is too hot. As soon as the engine runs again it cools off the sensor by circulating the water again and the alarm silences.
My behavior is contrary to the schematics, the pulse "P" input to the alarm should come from the Oil Pressure SW, and the continuous "C" input should come from the Temp SW.
So I believe mine is wired with "C" and "P" terminals reversed.
How do other C310s behave?

 

[Witzend]

Oil Pressure Alarm
Only get a slight and different buzz sound now, when at about 2300RPM, which disappears when reducing RPM or increasing it – up to 3200. Therefore ignoring this as it could be a slightly loose temperature connection.

Is it a pulsed sound or solid sound?
Are you sure that the alarm making this sound and not something else?

 

[Albanach]

"Is it a pulsed sound or solid sound?
Are you sure that the alarm making this sound and not something else?"

It is not the (lack of) oil pressure pulsating sound. It is more scratchy and only intermittent, as if the hot water alarm wants to start, but can't due to a loose connection. It definitely originates from the buzzer. It only happens in the 23-2400 RPM range. Shall keep a watch on it and perhaps play with the slide temperature connection at the engine. The panel connections are all firm-as new. The temperature gauge is steady at 160F in all ranges.

 

[Albanach]

"How do other C310s behave? "

Meant to address your question: My buzzer gives a pulsating sound when ignition key is turned on, silences when the engine is running and comes on again when engine is shut down with the ignition still being on. I don't think I have heard the temperature alarm (solid)since my raw water supply hose burst.

 

[Witzend]

"How do other C310s behave? "

Meant to address your question: My buzzer gives a pulsating sound when ignition key is turned on,

When the engine is cold?

silences when the engine is running and comes on again

As a pulsing sound same as before?

when engine is shut down with the ignition still being on. I don't think I have heard the temperature alarm (solid)since my raw water supply hose burst.

What happens when the engine has been run hard shut off, wait 5 minutes and then the key is turned on again?

 

[Albanach]

When the engine is cold? - yes
silences when the engine is running and comes on again

As a pulsing sound same as before?- yes

when engine is shut down with the ignition still being on. I don't think I have heard the temperature alarm (solid)since my raw water supply hose burst.What happens when the engine has been run hard shut off, wait 5 minutes and then the key is turned on again? - Have never done that, but shall try when next out, which could be a while off looking at the weathr forecast.

 

[Albanach]

When the engine is cold? - yes
silences when the engine is running and comes on again

As a pulsing sound same as before?- yes

when engine is shut down with the ignition still being on. I don't think I have heard the temperature alarm (solid)since my raw water supply hose burst.What happens when the engine has been run hard shut off, wait 5 minutes and then the key is turned on again? - Have never done that, but shall try when next out, which could be a while off looking at the weathr forecast.

 

[Albanach]

"What happens when the engine has been run hard shut off, wait 5 minutes and then the key is turned on again? "

Have tried it today - receive a pulsating sound - same as at cold start.

 

[Witzend]

Funny, I would thing you would get the solid on sound.

 

[Albanach]

Funny, I would thing you would get the solid on sound.

Really funny thing is: When I ran the engine for just a short while today to ensure that my new raw water hoses did not leak, the solid sound came on when stopping the engine – and also came on when I switched it back on again. Quite frankly, I give up on this – my sanity is worth more to me. That engine should perhaps be called Sudoku - not Kubota.

 

[Tom J]

"Is it a pulsed sound or solid sound?
Are you sure that the alarm making this sound and not something else?"

It is not the (lack of) oil pressure pulsating sound. It is more scratchy and only intermittent, as if the hot water alarm wants to start, but can't due to a loose connection. It definitely originates from the buzzer. It only happens in the 23-2400 RPM range. Shall keep a watch on it and perhaps play with the slide temperature connection at the engine. The panel connections are all firm-as new. The temperature gauge is steady at 160F in all ranges.

My buzzer was doing the same thing, and it stopped when I tihgtened the connections at the oil pressure switch. The slide-on connections might need to be crimped a little with pliers. A zip-tie might help to secure the connections.