Hello all, First off, thank you very much for all your advice and know how. I would not have gotten this far without everyone's fine expertise. However, when I went today to change the oil, I got to thinking.....Is there an oil filter? I looked all around the 1979 SB8 in board Yanmar 8 Hp and could not see any signs of an oil filter. I drained the oil the best I could but spilt a lot trying to get my pan out from under the motor. (Very Tight Fit!) I ended up having to do a bit of house cleaning because of the lack of room and therefore a bit of an oil spill. I am holding off putting the 15W-40 in the oil fill area till I hear back from you guys on the oil filter. While I was looking around for the oil filter, I noticed there was another oil fill area in the rear of the engine. I believe this particular oil fill area is for the transmission fluid since it is right there on the transmission and next to the gear box. On inspection, I saw that this oil looked nice and clean. Should I replace it too? The drain is in the rear of the engine with only about a 1/4 of an inch clearance between it and the floor. If I do drain this, how do I drain it with out making a huge mess? And what type of oil do I use for this rear oil fill area at the transmission or gear box area? Marina Thank you in advance for your well thought out replies. And thank you web master / masters for your fine web site.
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Gear box reply
Marina, the common practice for both the gear box and engine crankcase oil drain, is not to drain the oil, but to suck/pump it out using a "oil change" plastic hand pump that looks like a manual bilge pump. There are variations on the pump such as electic pumps and pumps that attach to drills for power and pumps that are connected to tanks to avoid spills. I use the simple hand pump. For the engine oil, the pump will come with a small tube that is inserted down the dip stick tube to suck out the oil. For the gear box, the pump will come with a larger hose. Unscrew the fluid level check fitting somewhere on the top of the gear box, it will loook like a bolt head and may have a flange on top for finger tightening/loosening. The bolt head will have a 2-3 inch dip stick attached to it, with a scored line ( which a previous owner may have marked by paint) on the lower end of the dip stick. This line is usually the FULL line, NOT the "add oil" line. You gear box probably uses automatic transmission fluid as the gear oil. Note, do not overfill the gear box as this will cause foaming of the oil and lubrication problems. It probably take less than 2 quarts to fill. PS, thanks for the post on questions regarding engine oil. I think I bought a case of oil that is not rated for my engine, but at least I know now to check. Hey, nobody knows everything about everthing, such as where your filter is. Scott
Marina, the common practice for both the gear box and engine crankcase oil drain, is not to drain the oil, but to suck/pump it out using a "oil change" plastic hand pump that looks like a manual bilge pump. There are variations on the pump such as electic pumps and pumps that attach to drills for power and pumps that are connected to tanks to avoid spills. I use the simple hand pump. For the engine oil, the pump will come with a small tube that is inserted down the dip stick tube to suck out the oil. For the gear box, the pump will come with a larger hose. Unscrew the fluid level check fitting somewhere on the top of the gear box, it will loook like a bolt head and may have a flange on top for finger tightening/loosening. The bolt head will have a 2-3 inch dip stick attached to it, with a scored line ( which a previous owner may have marked by paint) on the lower end of the dip stick. This line is usually the FULL line, NOT the "add oil" line. You gear box probably uses automatic transmission fluid as the gear oil. Note, do not overfill the gear box as this will cause foaming of the oil and lubrication problems. It probably take less than 2 quarts to fill. PS, thanks for the post on questions regarding engine oil. I think I bought a case of oil that is not rated for my engine, but at least I know now to check. Hey, nobody knows everything about everthing, such as where your filter is. Scott
important message reguarding transmition oil/fluid
Thank you Scott, I am trying to think of really good questions that not only I can learn from but others as well. I see that many view the messages I post. I am sure that some have learned a thing or two including me! I called Torresen. They had shocking news for me and others that have called them regarding transmission "oil". the woman there that was giving advice for the last so many days weeks has been telling everyone that uses transmission oil in their transmissions to use the same oil as they do in the engine.....15W-40 or 30 depending. Well, the mechanic just told her today she was wrong. She should have been telling everyone that has been calling her for advice on transmission oil to use a strait 20 or 30 wt. oil. Hehehehe. She said she has a lot of phone calls to make now as a result. So, if anyone received advice from Torrensen to use the 15W-30 or 40 wt in the transmission, use the strait 20 or 30 instead.....That is if you have a Kanzaki transmission. If you have a Hurth Transmission, use the Automatic Transmission Fluid. Hope I am a help to all Hunter Owners Marina
Thank you Scott, I am trying to think of really good questions that not only I can learn from but others as well. I see that many view the messages I post. I am sure that some have learned a thing or two including me! I called Torresen. They had shocking news for me and others that have called them regarding transmission "oil". the woman there that was giving advice for the last so many days weeks has been telling everyone that uses transmission oil in their transmissions to use the same oil as they do in the engine.....15W-40 or 30 depending. Well, the mechanic just told her today she was wrong. She should have been telling everyone that has been calling her for advice on transmission oil to use a strait 20 or 30 wt. oil. Hehehehe. She said she has a lot of phone calls to make now as a result. So, if anyone received advice from Torrensen to use the 15W-30 or 40 wt in the transmission, use the strait 20 or 30 instead.....That is if you have a Kanzaki transmission. If you have a Hurth Transmission, use the Automatic Transmission Fluid. Hope I am a help to all Hunter Owners Marina
Easy there Marina
First of all, Torrenson didn't post the information, you did. Second, I'm sorry you view this as a personal attack. It isn't. I'm simply saying all of us need to be careful to accurately document what we post. I didn't put "all of us" in my previous post and perhaps I should have. If I hurt your feelings then I humbly apologize. I simply have reason to believe that regardless of where the information originated, what you posted may not be entirely correct. I'm going to assume that the discussion you had with Torrenson revolved around the particular transmission behind YOUR engine (SB8 or not). I mentioned the SB8 only because there was discussion about the oil filter unit that was apparently specific to that engine. Did they tell you that the transmission with the SB8 (or whatever engine you have) calls for engine oil? Or did you ask them if ALL models of Kanzaki transmissions use engine oil? It's an important distinction. Regardless of whether you or Torrenson MIGHT have gotten it wrong I thought it worth further scrutiny. Happy sails.
First of all, Torrenson didn't post the information, you did. Second, I'm sorry you view this as a personal attack. It isn't. I'm simply saying all of us need to be careful to accurately document what we post. I didn't put "all of us" in my previous post and perhaps I should have. If I hurt your feelings then I humbly apologize. I simply have reason to believe that regardless of where the information originated, what you posted may not be entirely correct. I'm going to assume that the discussion you had with Torrenson revolved around the particular transmission behind YOUR engine (SB8 or not). I mentioned the SB8 only because there was discussion about the oil filter unit that was apparently specific to that engine. Did they tell you that the transmission with the SB8 (or whatever engine you have) calls for engine oil? Or did you ask them if ALL models of Kanzaki transmissions use engine oil? It's an important distinction. Regardless of whether you or Torrenson MIGHT have gotten it wrong I thought it worth further scrutiny. Happy sails.
Yanmar Owners Manual
My Yanmar manuals are very specific on what to use. All of my Yanmars have used ATF. Some do use engine oil and the owners manual will tell you the weight to use. Bill
My Yanmar manuals are very specific on what to use. All of my Yanmars have used ATF. Some do use engine oil and the owners manual will tell you the weight to use. Bill
I am sorry Rick. You have a point there.
I'm Sorry Rick, I thought, as you said, that you were attacking me. I apologies. I am so used to many sailing message boards containing people that often wish to argue. I see that I am wrong in this case. So, please forgive me for my defensive posture. I am guilty of spitting out messages quickly. I try very hard to make my point clear. But sometimes, there may be question marks between my sentences. If this is true. I understand that I need to clarify. Thank you Rick for being so kind!!!! My cheeks are a bit red from embarrassment. Yes, to clarify, they told me that they were telling people that called in about their transmission and that use oil to go with the 20 or 30 wt. depending. But all along, they should have been telling them (those that use oil in their transmission.....all makes and models) that they should instead be using the 15w-30 or 40 depending) Those that use transmission Fluid (ATF), need not be concerned.
I'm Sorry Rick, I thought, as you said, that you were attacking me. I apologies. I am so used to many sailing message boards containing people that often wish to argue. I see that I am wrong in this case. So, please forgive me for my defensive posture. I am guilty of spitting out messages quickly. I try very hard to make my point clear. But sometimes, there may be question marks between my sentences. If this is true. I understand that I need to clarify. Thank you Rick for being so kind!!!! My cheeks are a bit red from embarrassment. Yes, to clarify, they told me that they were telling people that called in about their transmission and that use oil to go with the 20 or 30 wt. depending. But all along, they should have been telling them (those that use oil in their transmission.....all makes and models) that they should instead be using the 15w-30 or 40 depending) Those that use transmission Fluid (ATF), need not be concerned.
Thank you Scott (oil plug vs. pump out technique)
Scott, Thank you for telling me about the pumps. I changed the engine oil the hard way. But you know what? I am glad I did it this time that way. It forced me to clean the entire engine and the under side. Now my engine looks as if it was never used before. But from now on, I will probably use the pump as you mentioned. If I use the pump, will it drain out all of the oil? The reason I ask this is because even though I drained all the oil out the plug, when I took out the oil filter in the SB8 engine, still about 8 or 9 Table spoons of oil came out. Will the pump get out as much of the oil as if I was draining it out the engine oil plug? Marina
Scott, Thank you for telling me about the pumps. I changed the engine oil the hard way. But you know what? I am glad I did it this time that way. It forced me to clean the entire engine and the under side. Now my engine looks as if it was never used before. But from now on, I will probably use the pump as you mentioned. If I use the pump, will it drain out all of the oil? The reason I ask this is because even though I drained all the oil out the plug, when I took out the oil filter in the SB8 engine, still about 8 or 9 Table spoons of oil came out. Will the pump get out as much of the oil as if I was draining it out the engine oil plug? Marina
Suction vs. Gravity
You can buy a manual, electric or drill powered pump to suck up the oil through the dipstick tube. The suction pick up using a pump should be more efficient then using the gravity drain plug, unless you leave the drain plug open for a long time and wait for the heavy oil to eventually to drain through. Not all the oil will be remove using either suction or gravity draining. You can buy diesel oil pumps from any Marine store. You can also buy them online or you can just go to an automotive store or a home improvement store and buy something similar, it’s just a simple pump with a plastic hose to go down the dipstick tube. Check the link to West Marine. Fair Winds, Clyde
You can buy a manual, electric or drill powered pump to suck up the oil through the dipstick tube. The suction pick up using a pump should be more efficient then using the gravity drain plug, unless you leave the drain plug open for a long time and wait for the heavy oil to eventually to drain through. Not all the oil will be remove using either suction or gravity draining. You can buy diesel oil pumps from any Marine store. You can also buy them online or you can just go to an automotive store or a home improvement store and buy something similar, it’s just a simple pump with a plastic hose to go down the dipstick tube. Check the link to West Marine. Fair Winds, Clyde
I used the automotive hand pump to change...
the oil on our engines. They seem to work okay, but messy at times. I decided to get the better unit, which can be used for other purposes, plus it's not messy. WM carries the unit, which is a two gallon rounded top blue metal container with a vacumn pump. After warming the engine for five minutes you insert the suction tube down the dip stick pipe and the suction from the container draws the old oil out. You can be doing other things while it is doing its thing. A little pricey, but any good pump is going to cost a bit. Terry
the oil on our engines. They seem to work okay, but messy at times. I decided to get the better unit, which can be used for other purposes, plus it's not messy. WM carries the unit, which is a two gallon rounded top blue metal container with a vacumn pump. After warming the engine for five minutes you insert the suction tube down the dip stick pipe and the suction from the container draws the old oil out. You can be doing other things while it is doing its thing. A little pricey, but any good pump is going to cost a bit. Terry
Hey Marina
No problem. Next time you're in St. Petersburg look me up and I'll buy you a beer. On the oil change thing, I recently gave up on the pump I was using because it was kind of messy. I bought a vacuum pump similar to what Terry describes and it's great! It's a little pricey (I think around $60) but it's quick, clean and stores the oil until proper disposal. I think mine's called the oil boy or some such. It's cylindrical translucent plastic.
No problem. Next time you're in St. Petersburg look me up and I'll buy you a beer. On the oil change thing, I recently gave up on the pump I was using because it was kind of messy. I bought a vacuum pump similar to what Terry describes and it's great! It's a little pricey (I think around $60) but it's quick, clean and stores the oil until proper disposal. I think mine's called the oil boy or some such. It's cylindrical translucent plastic.
Did Some One Say Beer? And Pump Question
Did some one say beer????
Hehehe. Better yet, let's go sailing. We can bring the brew with us! And no less than 12 foot swells and winds no less than those required to put the fear of God in ya! That's the day I will show up! Hehehe What type of pump do you recomend? Torrenson mentioned they have one for about 50 bucks. I saw a pump at my local hardware store that fits on my drill as Scott mentioned earlier (thank you Scott for you information). It costs about 8 bucks or so. I do not know if oil will pump through it or now. But I suppose it will work pretty good. All I would need to do is connect the correct size of tubes to it and pump into an empty bucket of some sort. What do you think? Marina "Sailor of the Greatest of Lakes....Great Lakes - in land seas of North America "
Did some one say beer????
Hehehe. Better yet, let's go sailing. We can bring the brew with us! And no less than 12 foot swells and winds no less than those required to put the fear of God in ya! That's the day I will show up! Hehehe What type of pump do you recomend? Torrenson mentioned they have one for about 50 bucks. I saw a pump at my local hardware store that fits on my drill as Scott mentioned earlier (thank you Scott for you information). It costs about 8 bucks or so. I do not know if oil will pump through it or now. But I suppose it will work pretty good. All I would need to do is connect the correct size of tubes to it and pump into an empty bucket of some sort. What do you think? Marina "Sailor of the Greatest of Lakes....Great Lakes - in land seas of North America "The best pump is
the one you borrow from your dock/yard mate, who would be glad to put it to use. Scott
the one you borrow from your dock/yard mate, who would be glad to put it to use. Scott
Scott, Would that be like my neighbor situation
Hehehehe Scott,would that be sort of like all the tools I borrowed from my now since moved neighbor years ago? I'd return them to him if I ever find out where he lives now. :-O Marina
Hehehehe
Scott,would that be sort of like all the tools I borrowed from my now since moved neighbor years ago? I'd return them to him if I ever find out where he lives now. :-O MarinaGetting back to transmisson fluid type
It has been my experience that most transmissions can be run with ATF. Dexron is synthetic so your seals will last 'a really long time'. The problem with Dexron is it will find it's way OUT of your trany if the gaskets and seals are not perfect. 'Ford type' ATF is a thicker viscosity non synthetic oil that gives the impression of a harder shift. (if your transmission has more than one speed) The victim user of the Ford type will suffer with less performance in ALL categories. An example of oil swapping, is the overdrive of my hotrod. The company that imports the unit, GearVendors from San Diego, originally spec'ed the trany with 90wt gear oil. After I owned it a couple of years I called them about another matter and they mentioned they had a kit to change the overdrive to ATF. All I had to do was install a different spring in the shift module. It took care or a slow 'cold shift'. That's all, I just thought I'd throw in something to stir up the pot.
It has been my experience that most transmissions can be run with ATF. Dexron is synthetic so your seals will last 'a really long time'. The problem with Dexron is it will find it's way OUT of your trany if the gaskets and seals are not perfect. 'Ford type' ATF is a thicker viscosity non synthetic oil that gives the impression of a harder shift. (if your transmission has more than one speed) The victim user of the Ford type will suffer with less performance in ALL categories. An example of oil swapping, is the overdrive of my hotrod. The company that imports the unit, GearVendors from San Diego, originally spec'ed the trany with 90wt gear oil. After I owned it a couple of years I called them about another matter and they mentioned they had a kit to change the overdrive to ATF. All I had to do was install a different spring in the shift module. It took care or a slow 'cold shift'. That's all, I just thought I'd throw in something to stir up the pot.
What does your manual say about this.......
Hi Frank, I guess it was a good thing you called the vender instead of just going on and following your manual then! I found that even though the manual is like gold when it comes to answers need for repairs and maintenance, nothing beats the occasional in put from mechanics who service the engines. Frank, I am running out to my Hunter here in about 5 minutes. I am fortunate to have my Hunter home so that I can work on her easily. I have a question for you and any one else reading this. I went to see how much transmission oil (in my case) that was in my transmission. I was told by the tech guys that in order to measure the transmission oil/fluid, do not screw the dip stick in but rather just lay it down on the threaded hole. This will give you an accurate reading. They went on to say that you are supposed to measure the oil/fluid when the transmission is cool rather than hot. What does your manual say about that? Marina
Hi Frank, I guess it was a good thing you called the vender instead of just going on and following your manual then!
I found that even though the manual is like gold when it comes to answers need for repairs and maintenance, nothing beats the occasional in put from mechanics who service the engines. Frank, I am running out to my Hunter here in about 5 minutes. I am fortunate to have my Hunter home so that I can work on her easily. I have a question for you and any one else reading this. I went to see how much transmission oil (in my case) that was in my transmission. I was told by the tech guys that in order to measure the transmission oil/fluid, do not screw the dip stick in but rather just lay it down on the threaded hole. This will give you an accurate reading. They went on to say that you are supposed to measure the oil/fluid when the transmission is cool rather than hot. What does your manual say about that? MarinaIt doesn't say a word,
it doesn't even say wheather to screw the dip stick in or not. And ALL automotive transmissions spec the test level temp as 'warm'. If anybody out there has a car/truck that is tested cold, lets hear it. Hey Marina, do you have any idea how hard it is to type with a puppy on your lap?
it doesn't even say wheather to screw the dip stick in or not. And ALL automotive transmissions spec the test level temp as 'warm'. If anybody out there has a car/truck that is tested cold, lets hear it. Hey Marina, do you have any idea how hard it is to type with a puppy on your lap?
you have the right info
Transmisons on yanmars should be checked by not turning in any threads just stick it and read it. it is in the factory repair manual, not sure about owners manuals.
Transmisons on yanmars should be checked by not turning in any threads just stick it and read it. it is in the factory repair manual, not sure about owners manuals.
This is my point! And in addition, listen to this
I hear ya Fred! I have a cat that weighs around 30 lbs and constantly needs attention. Concerning the manual not saying anything......This is exactly my point! Yes, manuals are wonderful for the basics. But the details are missing! And the best place to get these details are from a mechanic that works on these engines and has been around the block a few times (like my grandpa....Of course he has been dead for about 10 years. But just before he died, it was his goal to go around the block one last time. In his younger year, he went around the block so many times, they used to call him Block Head. Well, Yes, with a car you need to run it for about 10 minutes or so before you test the transmission fluid. And to boot, it is best to test it while the car is actually running. (for those of you who have never checked the transmission fluid in your car, "running" does not mean in motion! It is o.k. to check it while the car is parked. Before I learned this myself, many used to wonder why I would climb out on the hood of my car on rt. 33). Any way, checking transmission fluid in a car at idle temperatures is true with just about any vehicle if not all of them. But listen to this one: When I called Torresen, the mechanic said to test it cold. And he went on to tell me that the manuals will not tell you things like this. My assumption is that they do not really want you to fix your own motor. Most companies that produces products such as engines try to make it so that you will have to go to a authorized mechanic. And if you do maintain or repair your own engine, sooner or later, the things not mentioned in the manual leed our repairs and maintainance practices to cause our engines to eventually fail. It is a good thing that the mechanic at Torresen in Michigan is so nice! Any way, he said make certain that when you check the level of the transmission fluid or oil (depending on your motor), to simply lay the dip stick in but do not screw it in. If anyone would like to double check this by getting a second opinion, it would be most important. The reason I say this is for this reason. The difference in fluid level between full checking with a dip stick screwed in as apposed to simply laid on the threads, is about 1/3 of an inch. This will probably not hurt anything. But still, it would be nice to know. And the difference between checking it cold as apposed to hot, can mean the difference of about 1 inch of fluid...not to mention laying the dip stick in or screwing it in as well. :-( In addition, I asked the mechanic where the fluid/oil should come to. On each dip stick, there are a series of X's. If the fluid lies near or on the lowest x, you need to add transmission oil or fluid. If the fluid lies on the upper most x, this means your transmission is properly full. He said this...... You may fill your transmission to the upper most x. And if you go over a bit, this will not harm your transmission. But do not go too far over. If you go too far over, you will ruin gaskets, seals and eventually bearings. I asked him how far was too far. And he said to me that you can go over about 1/8 or so of an inch above the upper most x. Now, if I can only find a way to keep my kitty from eating all day and night long. Shoot, I will be laying there in bed. And this cat will insist on going to the other room 3 or 4 times a night to chow down on kitty food. She is getting so big, her behind is bigger than my 5 year old daughter's bottom! And she, the cat, goes through about 25 lbs of food in 2 or 3 weeks! Marina
I hear ya Fred! I have a cat that weighs around 30 lbs and constantly needs attention. Concerning the manual not saying anything......This is exactly my point! Yes, manuals are wonderful for the basics. But the details are missing! And the best place to get these details are from a mechanic that works on these engines and has been around the block a few times (like my grandpa....Of course he has been dead for about 10 years. But just before he died, it was his goal to go around the block one last time. In his younger year, he went around the block so many times, they used to call him Block Head. Well, Yes, with a car you need to run it for about 10 minutes or so before you test the transmission fluid. And to boot, it is best to test it while the car is actually running. (for those of you who have never checked the transmission fluid in your car, "running" does not mean in motion! It is o.k. to check it while the car is parked. Before I learned this myself, many used to wonder why I would climb out on the hood of my car on rt. 33). Any way, checking transmission fluid in a car at idle temperatures is true with just about any vehicle if not all of them. But listen to this one: When I called Torresen, the mechanic said to test it cold. And he went on to tell me that the manuals will not tell you things like this. My assumption is that they do not really want you to fix your own motor. Most companies that produces products such as engines try to make it so that you will have to go to a authorized mechanic. And if you do maintain or repair your own engine, sooner or later, the things not mentioned in the manual leed our repairs and maintainance practices to cause our engines to eventually fail. It is a good thing that the mechanic at Torresen in Michigan is so nice! Any way, he said make certain that when you check the level of the transmission fluid or oil (depending on your motor), to simply lay the dip stick in but do not screw it in. If anyone would like to double check this by getting a second opinion, it would be most important. The reason I say this is for this reason. The difference in fluid level between full checking with a dip stick screwed in as apposed to simply laid on the threads, is about 1/3 of an inch. This will probably not hurt anything. But still, it would be nice to know. And the difference between checking it cold as apposed to hot, can mean the difference of about 1 inch of fluid...not to mention laying the dip stick in or screwing it in as well. :-( In addition, I asked the mechanic where the fluid/oil should come to. On each dip stick, there are a series of X's. If the fluid lies near or on the lowest x, you need to add transmission oil or fluid. If the fluid lies on the upper most x, this means your transmission is properly full. He said this...... You may fill your transmission to the upper most x. And if you go over a bit, this will not harm your transmission. But do not go too far over. If you go too far over, you will ruin gaskets, seals and eventually bearings. I asked him how far was too far. And he said to me that you can go over about 1/8 or so of an inch above the upper most x. Now, if I can only find a way to keep my kitty from eating all day and night long. Shoot, I will be laying there in bed. And this cat will insist on going to the other room 3 or 4 times a night to chow down on kitty food. She is getting so big, her behind is bigger than my 5 year old daughter's bottom! And she, the cat, goes through about 25 lbs of food in 2 or 3 weeks! Marina
Thanx Ed!!!!
Thankx Ed! It is good to know you found this info some place! So, what the mechanic told me, is true! Hey! I am feeling like a part of the group now! These conversations are fun! I hope you guys like my company. Marina
Thankx Ed! It is good to know you found this info some place! So, what the mechanic told me, is true! Hey! I am feeling like a part of the group now! These conversations are fun! I hope you guys like my company. Marina
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