Nice NE weather has me out doing my mechancial work. Removed the pencil anode from the heat exchanger as usual. Hmmmm, not too much left of it, but that has happened before. So I got to put the new one in and ...ugh, won't go because there is a lot of the old still there apparently. Unfortunately the clean out is at the other end of the HE (brilliant design, right?). So I put the old one back in and I figure I am still protected, just let it corrode until I can get a new one to go. Question is am I missing something here?
oh oh, the anode broke!
- Thread starter odaydokay
- Start date
Kinda sounds like it wouldn't hurt at this point to remove and clean the HX. But Cap is right, it could stand to be removed. And whatever else that is clogged up in there as well. I do my own HX's, and use Muriatic acid on them.
The usual disclaimer: This is some super nasty stuff that should be handled with extreme care. But you can service your own for about five bucks. Versus the rad shop that is going to hit you for triple digits.
The usual disclaimer: This is some super nasty stuff that should be handled with extreme care. But you can service your own for about five bucks. Versus the rad shop that is going to hit you for triple digits.
I agree with Chris. I have always maintained that skippers should remove their HXs every year or two anyway, because in my experience, it's not the tubes that get clogged, it's the inlet port from the rw pump where the salt deposits drop out and clog that port. Then you can really clean out that HX properly. It takes but moments to drain the coolant without losing it,, removing the four hoses, cleaning it up and reinstalling it.
Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462
Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462
Thanks guys. I did a clean out last season as I was running a bit hot and inspection showed I had some impeller remains in there. Having said that, I did not remove and clean it out with acid. The thing is probably 10-12 years old, however (I will look that up in my records), so I wonder if an acid bath might push it over the wear out cliff, i.e. better maybe to punt and buy a new one????)
and I forgot to mention when I removed the anode, there was some water (normal), but also some yellow liquid which has to be antifreeze, right? Not sure that should be the case as it is normally a sealed system right?
Unless you have aleak inside the HX.
The only water that should come out when you remove the zinc is salt water unless you're on a lake.
Yep, my thought also. Time to replace. Who is our go to source these days? Anyone make one in stainless? (Universal M12)
Before you dump a lot of money on a new HX, pressure test it. It's very easy to do; it only takes a few hose clamps and some inner tube rubber. Standard hose water pressure is plenty to test your HX. There could be a pin hole (solderable) or it could be yellow from the dissimilar metals corrosion.
The plus to a radiator shop is that is what they do for a living. I took mine in last year, $48.95 and they pressure tested it as well. If you have a leaking tube, they may be able to plug it as well. Mine had three tubes plugged sometime in the past.
They thought I wouldn't like the sticky black crap they used for a coating so they didn't paint it. It looks like a copper still back in the engine compartment.
They thought I wouldn't like the sticky black crap they used for a coating so they didn't paint it. It looks like a copper still back in the engine compartment.
That makes sense as a start since I have to pull the thing out, repair or replace. If I do have one they can't refirb, where do I go for a new one other than Westerbeke/Universal?
I believe that Sen-Dure makes most of them. Goto http://www.sen-dure.com/products-page/cooling-for-diesel-engines/ expand on replacement and look for your engine.
Soooooooo.....I contact my first shop that does a lot of radiator work: "Oh, boy we hate to work on those things". I told him what my little 2"er cost to replace and he said " Yes, I know....bring it in and we'll have a lookl". Does not sound too encouraging to say the least.
As they say in the NFL..."after further review", I have decided not to try a repair for this 12 year old unit. It is clear it has a leak and yes, it can perhaps be fixed, but where is the guarantee I am not chasing another leak next year or the year after? I am 68 years old and the savings are not there if I have to keep repairing the thing, taking it out, installling. Others, especially younger guys, may have come down on the side of repair I know. So for me the question is Sen-dure at $295, Mr. Cool at $240 or Boatsman I-Net at $265 regular/$290 cupro nickel. Anyone got any thoughts on that?
Depends on which side of the fence you are asking. From me? Sounds like you've got another 30+ years of sailing left. But a couple of thoughts: I tell guys commonly, 'We ain't restoring the U.S.S. Constitution', and 'How long do you intend to keep the boat'? All theoretical of course, however...for the few bucks more, and bearing in mind the difficulty removing, cleaning it up, the 'questionable' nature of a cheap unit, etc., I would buy the best.
68? Yeah, that sounds like the medium age of us sailors. You'll probably wear the boat completely out.
68? Yeah, that sounds like the medium age of us sailors. You'll probably wear the boat completely out.
Kind thoughts, Chris.....but which of those is the best? The one with the nickel content?Depends on which side of the fence you are asking. From me? Sounds like you've got another 30+ years of sailing left. But a couple of thoughts: I tell guys commonly, 'We ain't restoring the U.S.S. Constitution', and 'How long do you intend to keep the boat'? All theoretical of course, however...for the few bucks more, and bearing in mind the difficulty removing, cleaning it up, the 'questionable' nature of a cheap unit, etc., I would buy the best.
68? Yeah, that sounds like the medium age of us sailors. You'll probably wear the boat completely out.