Oh Joy Resto 01/27/10

[CharlieCobra]

Over the past couple of weeks, I've been working on fabrication of the clamp to replace the rotted section next to the chainplates which prompted this tear down. I made a new clamp using three pieces laminated together with MAS epoxy and then planed and shaped.

Then, using the bandsaw, I set the notches.

and

I later cut them out using the multi tool. We then did a test fit.

Today, I mixed thickened epoxy (using Black Locust sawdust) and we set the clamp in place.

Aft joint, notice the clamp shim to keep the clamp from sticking and to get even pressure?

Aft lower chainplate in it's slot.

Forward lower.

Looking forward from inboard.

Looking aft from inboard.

Forward joint (not quite as tight as aft but close enough. Notice the height mismatch? The clamp thins forward so I'll hand plane it down to match.

A look at the upper chainplate in it's notch from outboard.

Outboard looking forward.

I'll let it cure and then plane and fill as needed. I'm thinking of running a couple of bolts down through the center of the joints for insurance. Once I'm done with this, we can go forward the the ribs starting aft.

 

[BobM]

The wood work looks great! The chain plate not so much. Are you going to replace them?

 

[CharlieCobra]

I think I might, depends on how they clean up. If it's just surface crap....

 

[Tim R.]

Very nice Charlie. Get those chainplates magnifluxed. If they pass, then clean them up and polish them. Better safe then sorry on what is likely to be a pristine restoration.

 

[CharlieCobra]

That's what I figured Tim. That clamp was sawn, not steam bent BTW. I didn't want excess stress on the outside because I had to notch it for the chainplates. The original piece had split at the notch corners...

 

[Ed Schenck]

IMHO the joints are stronger without the bolt. I think drilling a hole would weaken the splice.

 

[CharlieCobra]

Hmm, possibly. I haven't drilled it yet and figured somebody would post up their thoughts on it...

 

[Snotter]

Are you going to glass over plywood decks. When I worked as a boat builder in ME we often took a fishing boat hull (fiberglass hulls bought from a manufacturer) and built the rest of the boat on them using all wood. We would take gelcoat and saturate glass mat on the decks and leave them unsanded. They looked great and made a wonderful non-skid surface. One reason they looked so good is because we would rip the edges of the mat when butting them up to adjacent mat. That made the seams invisible. On fishing boats, we mixed black gel in with the white to make the decks grey--not appropriate for yachts. I would suspect that pure white would be blinding.

 

[CharlieCobra]

I'm considering saturating the ply for the decks in CPES and then applying Sanitred.

 

[SamLust]

Can you define CPES? "Sanitred" is a new one to me. Can you elaborate on that also?

 

[CharlieCobra]

Clear Penetrating Epoxy System from Smith & Co. soaks into the wood and prevents rot by not allowing water saturation. Sanitred is a liquid polyurethane rubber that bonds at a molecular level and is 100% waterproof and UV proof. It was designed to seal basement walls to keep moisture out originally and found use on ships and wooden boats later. Since it's rubber, it makes for a nice gasket like seal for bedding hardware too. You can sand it but it only comes off with a special stripper made by Sanitred. You can find it with Google search. I've chatted with some wooden boat guys who've used it to coat plywood decks with good effect.

 

[SamLust]

very interesting. Thanks.

 

[CharlieCobra]

No problem...