Oh Joy Resto 01/04/10

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CharlieCobra

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May 5, 2006
1,140
Knutson K-35 Yawl Bellingham
I went up and worked some more on that clamp section. After jointing, planing etc. to get it looking good, I realized all I did was waste a $60 piece of wood. The width is fine but the height is 1/8" shy of what I need.

The curve is correct as shown below.





The two pieces match up nicely.





Ah well, practice makes perfect... I think I'll cut all dimension a bit over so I can plane it out nice and slick without coming up short somewhere.

We did get a couple of the foredeck beams done....




...so it wasn't a total waste.

I suppose I'll snag another board from Targo Wood tomorrow and start again.
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Charlie, With a stick that large you can always use it somewhere else. What you can't get back is your time and labor. From what I can see, I salute your craftsmanship and skill.
 
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CharlieCobra

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May 5, 2006
1,140
Knutson K-35 Yawl Bellingham
Thanks Ross. It was an interesting cut. The Locust is so heavy that maneuvering a 2"X14"X10' long 125 Lb. piece on the bandsaw is problematic at best. I knew I had to make two boards exactly the same for lamination and did. I just didn't allow enough overage for milling and planing. I will the next one, which will also be laminated. No way I can find or work with a 5" piece that's 14" wide. It'd weigh 300 Lbs..
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Charlie, Get a set of roller stands for infeed and outfeed on the bandsaw.
James Crenov(sp) has a wonderful essay on bandsaws. Check the Wooenboat forum for sourses.
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,244
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
dont know if this will work for you .......shave a 1/2 inch off of the top of what you have now in the planer and cut a 3/4 board the same shape as the one you have and glue it together and then mill it down to the thickness you need and flush trim the sides of the add on with a flush trim router bit and you will have a stronger more stable board with theree layers than just two....dont mean to interfear but just some food for thought .....good luck on what ever way you go....

regards
woody

ps: you do very good looking work
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Woody, You must work some black locust some day. What you suggest would work great with pine or even oak but locust is in a class by itself. Harder than teak, stronger than live oak, and almost as durable as granite. For the trees that produce large sections it is the best you can get. Osage Orange is harder and more durable but you can't find a 2x14x10 feet if your life depended on it. Charlie has fine looking locust lumber. I have a mantra : cut the biggest piece you need from the smallest piece that will work first. That way if you screw it up you can use it elsewhere.
 
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CharlieCobra

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May 5, 2006
1,140
Knutson K-35 Yawl Bellingham
Ross said:
Charlie, Get a set of roller stands for infeed and outfeed on the bandsaw.
James Crenov(sp) has a wonderful essay on bandsaws. Check the Wooenboat forum for sourses.
Click to expand

I have a pair, they SUCK! I need a better pair...
 
C

CharlieCobra

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May 5, 2006
1,140
Knutson K-35 Yawl Bellingham
woodster said:
dont know if this will work for you .......shave a 1/2 inch off of the top of what you have now in the planer and cut a 3/4 board the same shape as the one you have and glue it together and then mill it down to the thickness you need and flush trim the sides of the add on with a flush trim router bit and you will have a stronger more stable board with theree layers than just two....dont mean to interfear but just some food for thought .....good luck on what ever way you go....

regards
woody

ps: you do very good looking work
Click to expand

Thanks. I thought of eating up a smaller board for a third piece and of shaving the existing two a bit for a three piece but the dimensions are a touch short on both planes. I have a 14"X2"X10' piece set aside at Targo already just for this so I'll snag it tomorrow and chew it up too. I'll just make sure it's oversized enough so I can plane all four edges to get that perfectly sweet curvature that I'm looking for. I refuse to be 1/8" off, absolutely REFUSE!!
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,244
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
thanks for the heads up Ross you are correct about the locust it has the same qualities as dessert iron wood ...and yes i to have never seen a board of "boadark" that size either

regards
woody
 
jibes138

jibes138

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Jan 27, 2008
3,092
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Applaud the Perfection

Just a suggestion to not waste the wood or ttime, 1/8 is pretty small, can you laminate a veneer on the top or bottom 1/8 thick to get you the dimension you want? will this board be visible top or bottom? Maybe laminate the side that isn't visible. My wodden mast is a laminate and stronger than a single piece of pine, by alternating grain direction and using epoxy glue it has held up well for ten years so i don't think you'll lose much in strength with a laminate. On the other hand a small error for a quality craftsman can eat at your mind forever until you do it right.:)
 
Witzend

Witzend

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Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
Instead of laminating the whole length, just laminate the small sections where the ribs meet, that way you don't have to cut a long thin piece and match the curve.
Locust is a interesting wood to work, as you probably already know. It rips like butter, but cross cuts like steel. I built some furniture out of it because of it's teak look, but it moved too much. I also tryied to use it for some dock pilings, surprisingly, it did not last for shit.
 
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CharlieCobra

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May 5, 2006
1,140
Knutson K-35 Yawl Bellingham
It's a bit short in both planes but the 1/8" is in the vertical. It would be obvious at the scarphs and I'm just to anal to leave it that way.... Besides, it's important to me that I meet this challenge and get it dead on with no saw wows or any other unsightly garbage.
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Witzend ,I am surprized that you locust pilings failed early. The sap wood of course rots quickly but the heart wood endures. My first mailbox post lasted 20 years and was a round section of a standing dead tree about 5 inches across, my new one is going on 19 years but is about 7 inches across.
 
Witzend

Witzend

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Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
I was suprised as well. It was a good solid 10" er that was copper topped, only lasted ~7 years, the center rotted out. I also used Locust for some cross members, they have survived OK, but are beginning to go in spots. I treated the ends with Cuprinol and painted to help extend their life.
Our Dock on the Elk is ~100 long w/ a gazebo at the end, it was put in in 1950s, and we have been owners since 1970. Three years ago I finally replaced the original Douglas Fir 3x6 stringers. We still have some of the original Douglas Fir deck boards as well. We keep everything well painted. The treated yellow pine is not worth a shit. In the same 35 years my neighbor has replaced his deck three times with the treated and does not paint, he thinks we are crazy to bother painting. We buy the Sears color rejects for $2/gal and mix it all together, it's currently a nice shade of Pepto Bismol w/ green trim. Next time you up the Elk stop by were are right across from Court House point on the western shore and are there most weekends or out on Witz, which is moored right off.
Too bad they outlawed the creosoted pilings, still have a few of those as well.
 
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