Off the Trailer

pclarksurf · Jun 7, 2016

yep-- sounds like you're on the path. Lots of successful variations out there, but I too used the tongue jack to get the stern up-- supported with 2x6 frame, temp support at the bow, and then a third ultimately just forward of the keel pocket. I left the mast on (but certainly not vertical).

Once the stern was set I utilized a transmission/motorcycle jack to raise the bow multiple times as I worked the trailer out from underneath. Look at Cloud Diver's version-- he picked up the bow with engine hoists which would solve for a lot of up and down and resetting of blocks.

pclarksurf · Jun 7, 2016

Its been said several times, but it's worth repeating: Do be cautious when dropping the Keel-- you will need to accommodate for vertical support as it comes down to the smaller trailer. Loads of good posts out there for various versions of a keel cart/cradle thing..... mine has come in handy for dropping, transporting to and from the sandblaster and machine shop-- and currently is holding it on the bench so I can fair and fiberglass.

I have first hand experience with toying with the concept of "can I support it upright by hand while I" ???? and the answer is not just no it's hell no ( I still had vertical straps attached on the bench while I toyed with this less than stellar idea).

I saw a recent post where someone let it get away from them and gratefully no one was hurt, but 500+ pounds of unwieldy metal will do some damage.

Daveinet · Jun 7, 2016

An alternative is to work on it on the trailer. First slide the boat forward or backward on the trailer so the keel misses the cross members. Then build yourself some wheel ramps, and back the trailer up onto the wheel ramps. That will get the boat high enough to drop the keel out the bottom. A lot less messing around and safer than removing it from the trailer. If you don't have a set of wheel ramps, stack a set of 2X10 in staggered fashion, as high as you need to go. Usually 10 to 12 inches is plenty to get the keel from under the boat. I would leave the trailer attached to the car or truck while you are underneath it, so it doesn't move while you mess around.
I did this with my boat. I actually have a pit that I backed over. I dug out about two feet extra under the keel so it could swing all the way down. I did not remove it from the boat.

CloudDiver · Jun 7, 2016

Its a good idea to remove the mast and rigging just to have it out the way.
If you have 4 sail-boat stands that's all you need, I'm not sure why you
would use any cinder-blocks? You really wouldn't even need the lumber to
tell the truth.... If you have the stronger bow-eye with a backing block
(and I'm sure you do because your boat is 86 or later) all you need besides
the boat stands is a cherry picker (Auto-engine hoist). Drop the trailer
tongue and place your rear stands, as close to the transom as possible since
the hull is thicker and stronger there... Bring in the Cherry Picker from
the side and grab the bow-eye and lift. You'll have enough lift on the
front and turn up the rear stands high enough that the boat will clear the
trailer and you can just roll away... Then place the front stands.
To support the keel, especially if you end up removing it... get yourself a
standard wood pallet. You'll see pics in my build thread showing how to add
some vertical 2x4 and braces to create a cradle. You'll need some type of
rolling floor jack to support the cradle. FYI, I used a single pallet which
works out fine, but finding the center of balance is a real pain in the
butt. If you want to be really safe, use two pallets screwed together and
make a cradle that full keel length. Use two rolling floor jacks, but if
you had a fork-lift you'd be money... You have a tractor right?

RJD · Jun 8, 2016

Two 500lb capacity moving dollies as a base for the cradle worked for me. A scissors jack made reinstalling easy. Verticals guided the drop and lift.

Siamese · Jun 13, 2016

I had a Precision 23, and rigged a system for getting the trailer out from under the boat for annual bottom painting and maintenance.

What I did was raise the TRAILER. Using a 16ton hydraulic bottle jack (20 bucks?). By raising the trailer, the boat ended up in the air, and I was able to slip pre-made stands of a fixed length underneath.

I raised the tongue, and set 2x8 cribbing boards under the forward trailer frame. Then jacked each corner of the rear of the trailer up and cribbed them. Then, I just worked my way around the boat with the jack, raising a corner 1.5" and sticking another board under until the boat AND trailer where at the appropriate height.

Then, I slipped stands under the stern, aft of the trailer. I built robust stands out of 2x6's and 3/4" panel. They didn't have to be adjustable. Still, store-bought metal stands would be ideal.

It took a little bit of careful measuring and some guesswork to arrive at the right stand height, as mine were non-adjustable, but the worked out fine.

I had two stands at the front of the boat, one on either side of the trailer...PAST the width of the trailer's wheels. I got a piece of 2x2 steel tubing and Gorilla glued a couple of hull-fitting chocks to it. Slipped the steel under the bow, and rested it on the two stands. STRONG!

At this point, the stern is well supported, and the bow is well supported. I think the steel may have deflected a quarter of an inch, it that. I worked my way around the boat and trailer with the jack, and lifted each corner just enough to remove one 1.5" thick cribbing board, and then lowering the trailer on the remaining cribbing. Worked my way around the boat a few times that way, until the tires were back on the ground, and the boat remained in the air.

With my trailer, it was fairly easy to loosen a few bolts and lower the trailer beds a few inches to gain extra room between the boat and the trailer. Then, it was an easy matter to wheel the trailer out from under by hand. There wasn't so much as a creak or a groan from the support stands. Whew.

Perhaps it goes without saying, I engineered the stands so that they had broad bases and provided a very stable support system. It's very important for the supports to not simply carry the weight, but to resist the boat going sideways. Have to be able to resist a strong wind hitting the side of the boat, or some idiot leaning or pushing on it. The last thing I wanted was to be found flattened under my boat in my driveway. Ouch.

RJD · Jun 13, 2016

That's a good looking keel dolly!

pclarksurf · Jun 13, 2016

Now the fun begins!

CloudDiver · Jun 15, 2016

How soon did you want to be on the water? When you go through all the work of getting the keel off, its worth it to have the keel sand blasted and do a complete epoxy job, totally seals it and you don't have to worry about it for a decade. It looks like its in pretty good shape, but the paint and filler could be hiding voids. With proper planning and all the materials on-hand you can get the job done in one weekend, especially if you have a helper. A new stainless bushing really does need to be epoxied into place, that seals the water from getting to the exposed cast iron and keeps it from rusting more.
There are ways to 'shorten' the process, but grinding away with sanders and flap discs just isn't worth the sweat and mess.

CloudDiver · Jun 15, 2016

Also, Here is the link to the Delrin Plastic washers I used, pack of 10 for about $13. These help center the keel and take out any remaining slop, even after using the new style keel hangers;
http://www.mcmaster.com/#95647a149/=12vb633

RJD · Jun 15, 2016

What a relief when those keel bolts break loose and not break off, eh? Congrats!

RJD · Jun 15, 2016

I cleaned the threads with WD40, used new bolts, applied loc-tite thread locker (Blue 242, removable) and torqued to 12 foot pounds as recommended by Stingy Sailor.