To date our 1985 H31 sails exclusively within in the Chesapeake Bay. Thus 100% of the time we empty our holding tank via the numerous and readily available pump out stations. Two years ago we simplified our sanitation system so our toilet now only pumps to the holding tank and the holding tank can only be emptied through the deck discharge port. The thru-hull for direct discharge has been capped, no Y-valves or pumps...new SeaLand hose...No odor...The proper solution for our cruising ground. This summer we are considering a few 24 to 48 h offshore trips possibly up to RI or around Delmarva from the Delaware to Virginia capes. This has prompted me to consider adding a portable, high capacity emergency manual bilge pump with hoses in the lazerette. (Will do for safety sake even if we stay in the bay) With the increased crew members required for off-shore sailing I am worried about the low capacity of my sanitation system until we make land-fall. Offshore sailing will be a very rare endeavor, thus I would like to retain the simpler features of current sanitation system. Question: In a pinch, and with the proper deck fitting, could the new manual bilge pump also be used to dump the holding tank overboard through the deck access point while we are out beyond the offshore limit? Of course I will have plenty of seawater available to flush out the emregency bilge pump and its hoses after the pump-out. Any suggestions on the pump, hoses and fittings or alerts to the pitfalls of this approach would be appreciated. Bill Ebling Yesterday's Dream Crab Alley Bay, Kent Island MD 1985 H31 hull# 31395
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It could, but it's not the best way
The manual bilge pump/dump pump isn't the problem...dumping the tank via the deck pumpout fitting is. You'd need a hose long enough to dangle over the side that has a connection on one end that can thread into the deck fitting. The parts for that can be hard to find and expensive if you can. And onlce you solve that problem, you'd be faced with where to store a hose onboard that's likely to be dripping waste. My advice: go with the pump (Whale makes a very good one), and install the necessary y-valves and hose to route the tank discharge to a below waterline thru-hull. You can remove the hose and wire tie the thru-hull when you get back.
The manual bilge pump/dump pump isn't the problem...dumping the tank via the deck pumpout fitting is. You'd need a hose long enough to dangle over the side that has a connection on one end that can thread into the deck fitting. The parts for that can be hard to find and expensive if you can. And onlce you solve that problem, you'd be faced with where to store a hose onboard that's likely to be dripping waste. My advice: go with the pump (Whale makes a very good one), and install the necessary y-valves and hose to route the tank discharge to a below waterline thru-hull. You can remove the hose and wire tie the thru-hull when you get back.
Simple solution
West marine sells a handy little item that you can go into and then pour your liquid waste out overboard with no pumps or any mechanical parts to break down. Reduction of the waste into the holding tank to just semi solid will give you considerably more time between pump outs. Also you can also use a bucket or the plastic bag lining the head in a pinch. d
West marine sells a handy little item that you can go into and then pour your liquid waste out overboard with no pumps or any mechanical parts to break down. Reduction of the waste into the holding tank to just semi solid will give you considerably more time between pump outs. Also you can also use a bucket or the plastic bag lining the head in a pinch. d
Simple, yes...but washing it out is no fun
If you want to avoid the tank altogether when more than 3 miles offshore, the best solution is a y-valve tha allows the toilet to flush everything directly overboard.
If you want to avoid the tank altogether when more than 3 miles offshore, the best solution is a y-valve tha allows the toilet to flush everything directly overboard.
LaDonnaCompromise solution!
Those with outboard plumbing use outside facilities and reserve the space in the tank for those with inboard plumbing!
Those with outboard plumbing use outside facilities and reserve the space in the tank for those with inboard plumbing!
Steve -Peggy here's the rub
When I bought the boat a frozen gate valve was attached to the discharge thru-hull, this was cut off and the thru-hull capped with a bronze cap. No Y-valve in the boat, but it had a terribly permeated whale manual discharge pump. This was removed with the old permeated vinyl hoses, and only the essentials replaced as in my orriginal post... and then with sea land. Materials to retrofit for overboard discharge New bronze 1.5" sea-cock for thru-hull in head compartment~$90 New Tail piece for sea-cock with hose barb~ $20 New dedicated waste discharge Pump ~ $50 New Y-valve ~ $65 At least 6 feet of Additional Sea-land Hose ~$70 Labor to route a third line forward to the head compartment between the hull and pan, cutting into existing lines and installing new hardware... least 1 day (it was almost impossible to pass the first two very stiff Sealand hoses along this route when I replaced the vinyl with Sealand. I can't imagine getting a third hose through the same space) All this for a system that will only be used perhaps once or twice while I own the boat. Remember the monies for the back-up bilge pump and two sections of hose for this bilge pump, about 10' each, that I am proposing for safety/security reasons would be spent anyway. Peggy: Why would the bilge pump hoses drip waste after I flush them with 30, 50 or 100 gallons of seawater after the tank dump? Suck up seawater with the intake hose dangling over the side and immediately pump back overboard with the discharge hose dangling over the side. I could even pump a gallon of bleach through the portable bilge pump system to sanitize! At my last visit to West Marine it appears that I found a nylon fitting that screws into a waste deck fitting that was also at the store (don't know if it fits my older waste pump out fitting). It had a 1.5" hose barb on the other end. It looked like it would make an airtight seal to allow the generation of good suction. I think it was about $5. Bill Ebling
When I bought the boat a frozen gate valve was attached to the discharge thru-hull, this was cut off and the thru-hull capped with a bronze cap. No Y-valve in the boat, but it had a terribly permeated whale manual discharge pump. This was removed with the old permeated vinyl hoses, and only the essentials replaced as in my orriginal post... and then with sea land. Materials to retrofit for overboard discharge New bronze 1.5" sea-cock for thru-hull in head compartment~$90 New Tail piece for sea-cock with hose barb~ $20 New dedicated waste discharge Pump ~ $50 New Y-valve ~ $65 At least 6 feet of Additional Sea-land Hose ~$70 Labor to route a third line forward to the head compartment between the hull and pan, cutting into existing lines and installing new hardware... least 1 day (it was almost impossible to pass the first two very stiff Sealand hoses along this route when I replaced the vinyl with Sealand. I can't imagine getting a third hose through the same space) All this for a system that will only be used perhaps once or twice while I own the boat. Remember the monies for the back-up bilge pump and two sections of hose for this bilge pump, about 10' each, that I am proposing for safety/security reasons would be spent anyway. Peggy: Why would the bilge pump hoses drip waste after I flush them with 30, 50 or 100 gallons of seawater after the tank dump? Suck up seawater with the intake hose dangling over the side and immediately pump back overboard with the discharge hose dangling over the side. I could even pump a gallon of bleach through the portable bilge pump system to sanitize! At my last visit to West Marine it appears that I found a nylon fitting that screws into a waste deck fitting that was also at the store (don't know if it fits my older waste pump out fitting). It had a 1.5" hose barb on the other end. It looked like it would make an airtight seal to allow the generation of good suction. I think it was about $5. Bill Ebling
You wouldn't want to pump any bleach through it
unless you want to replace the rubber parts in your pump fairly often. However, I'm a little confused as to how you can reverse the pump from pulling waste out of the tank to sucking up seawater into the tank to rinse it and the hose. If you can, I see no problem with what you want to do.
unless you want to replace the rubber parts in your pump fairly often. However, I'm a little confused as to how you can reverse the pump from pulling waste out of the tank to sucking up seawater into the tank to rinse it and the hose. If you can, I see no problem with what you want to do.
Bill, I did what you are proposing
My old boat had a holding tank but it had no mascerator or way to empty it once it was full (Though I did have a Y-valve to directly overboard)....anyway. I got a long length of the cheapest (1 1/2" ???) plastic hose I could get....It kind of has kinks in it that look like an accordian with flat spaces every 6 inches or so. I also bought that deck screw in fitting with brab on the other side you described (mine happened to be yellow). And lastly I bought a small (relatively) "Whale-like" diaphram hand pump and I bolted down to a solid piece of plywood big enough to also put my foot on for leverage. I would put the long end of hose in the water and the shorter section to the deck fitting...Lengths determined by your boat and configuration (One NOTE:....you must screw in the deck fitting each time before you can attach and clamp the hose from the pump....not too big of a deal).... Another thing to note also is you "might" want add a weight if possible to the hose end in the water or if you are moving at any type of speed the end will 'pop' out of the water....(Eewww...lol)....no big deal though, most of the stuff that comes out is very liquid.... So....yeah it can work as a temporary method, but it seemed to take a while with that little hand pump and a little bit of a hassle.........and yeah......ya gotta do "something" with that hose and pump...
My old boat had a holding tank but it had no mascerator or way to empty it once it was full (Though I did have a Y-valve to directly overboard)....anyway. I got a long length of the cheapest (1 1/2" ???) plastic hose I could get....It kind of has kinks in it that look like an accordian with flat spaces every 6 inches or so. I also bought that deck screw in fitting with brab on the other side you described (mine happened to be yellow). And lastly I bought a small (relatively) "Whale-like" diaphram hand pump and I bolted down to a solid piece of plywood big enough to also put my foot on for leverage. I would put the long end of hose in the water and the shorter section to the deck fitting...Lengths determined by your boat and configuration (One NOTE:....you must screw in the deck fitting each time before you can attach and clamp the hose from the pump....not too big of a deal).... Another thing to note also is you "might" want add a weight if possible to the hose end in the water or if you are moving at any type of speed the end will 'pop' out of the water....(Eewww...lol)....no big deal though, most of the stuff that comes out is very liquid.... So....yeah it can work as a temporary method, but it seemed to take a while with that little hand pump and a little bit of a hassle.........and yeah......ya gotta do "something" with that hose and pump...
But you are worth it!
Bill: Of course it is not cheap. But remember, "You are worth it". For the existing thru hull, you can also use a BRONZE (not brass) ball valve and tail piece. I is not going to save you a lot but it is slightly less expensive and will probably be easier to install. The original plumbing had the hose going to/from the holding tank thru the space that is alloted. I would think that you may need to grease up the hoses with some teflon spray or KY jelly. Others have attempted this and have succeded (you can do it). One suggestion, think about putting a larger door under the v-berth. This would make access to the area MUCH easier. I personally do not like any of these other ideas for temporary pumpouts. They all look like a chance for a 'stinking' disaster. Once you bite the bullet and pay for this to be done and done properly you will be set for many years. PS: Think about the out-board plumbing option too! It works quite well and never fills up!
Bill: Of course it is not cheap. But remember, "You are worth it". For the existing thru hull, you can also use a BRONZE (not brass) ball valve and tail piece. I is not going to save you a lot but it is slightly less expensive and will probably be easier to install. The original plumbing had the hose going to/from the holding tank thru the space that is alloted. I would think that you may need to grease up the hoses with some teflon spray or KY jelly. Others have attempted this and have succeded (you can do it). One suggestion, think about putting a larger door under the v-berth. This would make access to the area MUCH easier. I personally do not like any of these other ideas for temporary pumpouts. They all look like a chance for a 'stinking' disaster. Once you bite the bullet and pay for this to be done and done properly you will be set for many years. PS: Think about the out-board plumbing option too! It works quite well and never fills up!
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