- May 20, 2016
I looked a bunch of ignition switches spec's this morning - its a real mixed bag - some were 10A on ignition but 30A on start(Mercury), others were just the opposite 10A on ignition but only 5A on start (Cole Hersee) --
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I saw that too. My guess is that on the C310 it doesn’t matter, because both glow plugs and starter are relay driven, with minimal current draw. Still, I do need to measure it, just a pain to do.I looked a bunch of ignition switches spec's this morning - its a real mixed bag - some were 10A on ignition but 30A on start(Mercury), others were just the opposite 10A on ignition but only 5A on start (Cole Hersee) --
I have a similar but non-boat related project.It does affect my tow rig though. I need to find a reliable toggle switch I can mount in my Suburban's engine compartment. Flat on the surface not through a hole. I have gremlins on her. Once in while, in the most inconvenient places, it refuses to start. No click from the solenoid. No way for a single person to measure voltage when it happens. To try to alleviate it, I've replaced the solenoid, the park safety switch and the electrical switch behind the ignition tumbler. I have no confidence it's fixed, so I want to add a backup circuit. A fused toggle switch from the battery to the solenoid. That way, if it ever happens again, I can start it from the switch. Very similar to the remote starter switches mechanics use only permanently wired in.[/QUO
Reminds me of an old Dodge stationwagon I had years ago. While driving across country, the car didn't start, and, since the starter relay was mounted on the firewall, I was able to jump the terminals with two screwdrivers, and start the engine. I did that for a couple of days until I found an auto parts store.