Odors/Dry Bilge questions

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E

Ed

Peggy, I am new to Hunters having bought my first one last year and sailed it this season (a 326) and enjoyed it enough to move up to a 426 DS at the boat show this year. That boat will be back on land after the Boston Show and will winter in CT. That alows me to do a few things to it befor launching next spring. This boat will be a live aboard for about 12 weeks in the summer. I understand (I think) most of the ways to generate odors on a boat, and am concerned about a wet bilge. However I am equally concerned about a catostrophic failure of a dripless packing gland. SOOOOOOO, I have two questions for you: 1. Should I change to a dripless seal? or just clean the bilge on a regular - weekly basis? The showers have seperate sumps, not sure about condensate from washer/dryer and A/C, but assume they are taken off through a system other than the bige pump - but will check. The other option is to change out the packing material with a teflon based product which I read drips less. 2. I intend to add a series of solar/power vent to the hatches to ventilate at about the cabins cubic area/hour. I assume two intake and two exaust. The A/C unit also has a dehumidifing cycle - but that brings me back to the bilge. If it has water in it, it seems that the humidity will always remain about 100% anytime the boat is closed up and the A/C will have to work harder as the water will evaporate (trying to reach 100% saturation of the air) while the A/C is trying to reach 25%. Any input on the bilge and the ventilation issues are appreciated. Ed
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Go with dripless

I've heard nothing but good things about it. Besides, catastropic failures rarely occur to anything without plenty of advance warning for anyone who's paying ANY attention at all, so I don't think that should be a concern. Route any drains that end up in your bilge into sumps...which may require adding a sump or two. I think you're "over-worrying" all this, especially since you'll living aboard during the hottest weather. You'll be amazed at how much some oscillating 12v fans can do, especially with the added ventilation from the solar vents. Plan on cleaning the bilge once or twice a year...meanwhile, relax and enjoy your new boat. :)
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,086
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Depends on What Kind of Dripless

Ed There are two kinds of dripless. One is a simple replacement to the inner piece of flax (there are usually three layers) in your stuffing box. NO WAY you can have a catastrophic failure there. The other is a mechanical dripless stuffing box replacement of the whole thing, which can fail spectacularly. I'd suggest using either the West marine green goop or the less expensive goretex type material from emarine.com. No sense spending big bucks on the mecahnical seal which can fail, when a simple replacement, which CAN be done with the boat in the water, is all you need to keep a dry bilge. Try the archive search on "dripless," there's lots on information there.
 
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Ron

A Link

Here is a link to a dripless packing co. most of the people here use... Ron/KA5HZV
 
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Mickey McHugh

Catostrophic Spectacular Failure!!

Please, has ANYONE one this site experienced, heard of or even have second hand knowledge of such a failure of the PSS dripless shaft seal. Comments that use such words scare me. I live on my 40.5 and I do not want to wake up with water up to my nose! Are they safe? My PSS has been trouble free for over 2 years and I check it at least once a month. Is the joy of a totally dry bilge worth the risk?
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,187
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Agh, Heck Mickey..

..you ask the near impossible. I recollect from this board, two people who had problems. One was, I recall, a charter and the collar needed to be adjusted. The other was a collar slipping forward. Neither was catastrophic, as I recall. My neighbor has one that was leaking. The bellows was nicked, probably at installation. I installed one on the prior boat. I also installed one on an antique launch of which I am a partner. I have one on my current 40.5 that has about 1200 hours on it, and eight years. I will replace the bellows next haul. I got that info from PSS when I asked what PM to pull on the unit. And, I think that was just a dose of extra caution. Maybe the reason there isn't more news of failure is that there isn't much to report. After all, even on a shaft log, there is still just hose between you and the ocean, so I don't see this design being significantly more risk-prone. There are a gazillion of them where I'm at. But, I know of a ton more packing failures than I do dripless seal problems. FWIW, I tried teflon once. I had to change to a bronze log from the nylon original which had insufficient clearance. I fought with it for a year and never did stop it from leaking. Changed to PSS. There were a few who had experience with the design in the chemical industry who were not enamored of the risks. Don't know how that translates into this marine application. If it causes you to lose sleep, I'd sure change it next haul. Just because there isn't a raft of documented failures doesn't mean you couldn't be one. I do think if there was anything going on, there would be a recall in the fast lane, and the insurers would be all over it like bees on honey. Rick D.
 
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Tom

Yes Mickey, Ed and Peggy There has been one

Catastrophic failure I heard about. (and no peggy...there was no warning). Plus I have personally had the collar slip up and start to leak but that was not a catasrphgic failure and once I figured what hapopened it was easy to fix. Don't get me wrong, I really liked my PSS shaft seal on my old boat, but do not be lulled into a false sense of security Go back through the archives and it was talked about before. But here is an excerpt from an email on another list. "for those who did not see the earlier write-up, my breakage happened just as I put the gear in reverse to back out of the slip." "breaking adhesion is key and might always be a good practice before setting out after not running the boat for a few weeks especially. however, air bubbles in one instant will not cause this. the air bubbles over time will cause the surfaces to reach higher than normal temperatures. this will, in turn, create surface distortion, but the adhesion comes from the shedding of the carbon bearing surface as it heats. bits, almost liquid, hive off. this can be seen quite easily way in advance of harm by inspecting the underside of the inspection cover. if it has a line of carbon coloring straight across it, then this proves that you are running hot; ie, no water lubrication due to air bubbles." Apparently he either had a diver or some other way that allowed air bubbles to get to the shaft seal without him realizing it. He ran the boat for a while and then just shut it down, but unbeknowst to him the graphite (?) seal was overheating and 'fused' to the stainless steel collar when he shut down. When he went to start the boat into gear the next time he started from the slip it just tore the bellows open. Lucky for him he was right at the marina and they could get a lift available for him right away..... But let me add.....this is the only known occurance and very rare indeed. I would hazard a guess that more people have lost their shafts from improper attachments to the engines than these failures.
 
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Ralph Johnstone

Haven't Seen a PSS Mechanical Seal ........

.... failure in a marine application but I have seen a couple of mechanical seal failures on pumps in steam generating plants. The failures were without warning, instantaneous, and catastrophic. Having seen these in an industrial setting, I would not have one in my boat. With the development of teflon impregnated flax, and I suppose even one better being the green teflon plastic packing, I think the mechanical seal scam in pleasure boats has had its day. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Use Common Sense

Mickey, don't know what your definition of "catastrophic spectacular failure" is but you have a spectacular post with your question. Just think about it for a minute: Your prop shaft is 1.25 inches in diameter and the hole it goes through is, what, 2 inches in diameter. That means the shaft pretty much fills up the hole. With the absolute worst case situation, if someone the seal just "vanished", how much water can come? Flood? I don't think so! A real-world failure would probably net a good leak, worst case, but I don't see how you'd get a flood like you nightmare about. Do you have bronze seacocks? Now one of those could fall off through electrolysis. Now that's something to worry about. An engineer I worked with, who should know about these things, had one fall off on his C&C 36 while his daughter and new son-in-law (also his fordeck man) were on their honeymoon in the San Juans. Fortunately he had some plugs tied on and his son-in-law was able to find where the leak was coming from and get a plug in. Now that would be a fair flood. Now then, think about your rig falling down around your ears. Have you ever wondered about that? It's happened more than you'd think. I personally know the owners of a Hunter 35.5, 40, and a 43 where this has happened. Now thats what I might call spectacular. Water coming in? that can be stopped and you. No problemo. But the rig falling down can give you a real headache and that might be spectacular. All your drain hoses are 1.5 inch diameter. What would happen if one of those sliped off? Install a water level alarm and get some sleep!
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

If I could 1,000/1 odds in a casino

I wouldn't hesitate to bet the ranch on it. No warning? Hard to believe that something could overheat enough to cause it to fuse to stainless steel without any creating any odor of burning rubber...
 
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Tom

Its not rubber , its graphite composite and the

powder residue does not smell. . Peggy , do you actually use a PYI PSS shaft Seal (or similar manufacturer ?) Plus most of these areas are fully enclosed and I don't think a lot of us stick our noses in stuffing box and tranny areas everyday even if there was a slight smell. There is a reason why PYI and the other manufacturers of these mechanical seals *explicitly* tell everyboat owner that they MUST "burp" their seals when the boat goes in the water. The reason is there CAN be a problem if water does not reach the seal. If you are really concerned you can order a model that "plumb's" water into the seal to reduce the possibilty of water restricted overheating from happening.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Nope, boatless at the moment

But will definitely have them on the next boat. "There is a reason why PYI and the other manufacturers of these mechanical seals *explicitly* tell everyboat owner that they MUST "burp" their seals when the boat goes in the water." Doesn't that pretty much confirm that any failures are NOT because the seals are failure prone, but are caused by people who can't follow directions? However, I'll let y'all argue out the relative merits of dripless vs. flax packing...whichever you decide, I don't think moisture and humidity problems are likely to be much of an issue if the boat is well ventilated and nothing drains into the bilge. In FL, maybe...but not in CT.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Non-Burping

Geeze Louise! I put my PSS shaft seal on around 1999. What's that, 13 years ago? I haul and paint the boat every year. For several years when I splashed (put the boat back in the water), I NEVER burped it and it's STILL GOING. NEVER had a problem. Yes, it "could" have been a problem but it never materialized. I found out by accident that it's a good idea to burp it and I've been doing that ever since. My recommendation is if you MIGHT loose sleep over it, can't handle surprises very well, don't think you can deal with the problem should it arise, then use something else or go back to the leaky flax seal. I was running my new boat when one of the raw water cooling hoses blew off the engine due to a loose hose clamp and the bildge flooded - I was at the helm, not below. Now THAT could have been exciting. Does everybody check their hose clamps on the engine? Surely they're ALL double clamped! Right? Yea, suuurrrre. They're just plain old automotive radiator hose clamps. It can happen cause it happened to me. That's ONE time, the odds are there. Did the boat sink? NO. Was I worried? YES. Did I keep my cool? yes, well, sort of. Did I immediately call Mayday on 16? no. I figured things out and fixed it. If I sound like I'm not in a good humor, well, sometimes ..... A mast falling down around your ears, now that's what I might call a spectacular failure. Wonder if a regular OEM stuffing box has ever failed?
 
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Ed

Thanks for info, but what about giant squids?

The question - was, and remains a simple issue of odor in the bilge from me (Ed) it now is sleepless nights by me over a seal. (Mickey?, I know it was a joke when first referenced - but now it has matastisied into me!!!!) I agree that the clearence is small enough that the boat isn't going to sink - just though I might slow down or stop the dripping due to odor concerns in the bilge. Oviously a hotly debated topic these stuffing boxes. PS, I was a Chem Engineer prior to ending my carerr as a Safety Consultant, so I am not overly worried about these things and understand odds etc. However, now I really am scared, masts collapsing, hoses letting go, thru hulls falling out, and how best to bet in a casiono (by the way Union Carbide wouldn't take that bet after the million to one issue they lost in India) Seriously, thanks for all the good info, just an observation of the way these posts build - sort of like playing "telephone" at school. Oh, any reports on attacks by Giant Squids????? If so, anyone interested in a very slightly used boat? Ed
 
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Tom

Yes Peggy, But what if?.....

Unbeknownst to you air bubbles some how get up into the shaft area...ie, a diver goes down and air get up there. (Thats what happened to the guy that had his bellows rip.) The Burping is specified when you first put the boat in the water
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

What if an asteroid hits the planet?

What if a hose clamp fails? What if a seacock fails? What if you get bitten by a mosquito carrying West Nile? What if a water leak causes stringer rot? A short in your wiring starts a fire that destroys your boat? And those giant squid DO exist! ALL of the above COULD happen...but if you live your life based on 1/1000 "what ifs," you'd never get out of bed, much less ever leave the dock (what if the dock collapses???)
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,187
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Tiny Bubbles...

..in my seal?? I conjecture that it might have an effect if somehow, a continual stream of them over a significant time would be adequate to evacuate all the water in the seal. Certainly a few wouldn't do it. Like I said before, there are 1.5 gazillion of positive shaft seals where I'm berthed, and many (most?) have dive services, like me, who clean the hull monthly or more. No bubble meltdowns I'm aware of so far. Rick D.
 
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Stan Rogacevicz

PSS Catastrophe

One failure I heard of that was basically the owners fault (as most things are) was the bilge blower hose (dryer vent hose) was flopping around in the drive train area, caught on the trans coupling, twisted itself into knots, and the re-enforceing wire in the hose punctured the rubber bellows of the PSS. The boat didn't sink as I remember, but it really spoiled the guy's day. I just keep that hose secured and I sleep just fine. I worry Much more about the car drive to the boat, a plane falling from the glide path my marina is in, or a train derailing from the track right next to the marina....etc.... than I worry about my PSS. Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
 
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Rodney Kidd

Installed Shaft Seal

In the water. While not recommended, I installed my shaft seal while the boat was in the water. While a fair amount of water came in, it was easily controlled during the installation. A few rags stuffed between the shaft and log was all it took while I used a puller to remove the shaft flange and old stuffing box. I also had a friend who, while doing the "Baja bash" up the coast from Mexico had the entire shaft depart from his boat. The incoming water was stemmed by inserting a Nerf football into the log. Bottom line - don't sweat the small stuff. Rodney Kidd Sashay, C-42 #567
 
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Bruce Hill

Back to Ed's original question

Ed- Focusing on your issues- 1) You will get no satisfactory answer from this website on dripless seals. While we are all well intentioned, well meaning, and well informed, this has always been an emotional topic. I installed a PSS Shaft Seal last year and absolutely love it. 2) You talk about the dehumidify cycle on the AC units and that they "will have to work harder". I don't think that is the case. I believe the dehumidify cycle is pre-programmed to heat up and cool down a fixed amount of time during a cycle. It is not "humidity sensitive" like a home unit. 3) Check the air conditioning evap trays to ensure Hunter has installed drain hoses-they tend to neglect this and there is a fair amount of standing water in those trays. Several of the contributors to this board have used a "condensator" to fix this. A final comment to one of the posts that said something to the effect of a "failure of the seal occuring down by the transmission where we don't look very often." Dangerous practice whether with a PSS or regular packing. My wife and I have a routine whereby every hour on the hour we get up, shake the rig, check the bilge/shaft, check the batteries, take a plot (if on a trip), check the electronics, wash dishes/glasses, check the cds. It is a great routine, gives everyone something to do, also gets us up to stretch. When the chime on my watch goes off on the hour it's Cool Hand Luke time- "shaking the rig, boss, checking the bilge, boss." We occasionally do find something that needs adjusting. Good luck with the new boat!
 
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