O'Day 40 (1987) Port Hull Balsa Core Moisture

Aug 21, 2020
48
Oday 40 Dalhousie Yacht Club
Hi all,

I've been working through a significant moisture issue in the port hull of my 1987 O'Day 40 and wanted to share my findings and planned approach, both to get a sanity check from anyone who's done similar work and to ask for help finding information I haven't been able to track down.

Background
I have a 3ft x 10ft area on the port hull where the outer fiberglass skin has delaminated from the balsa core — confirmed core failure. That section will be cut out and replaced (skin + core), so it's out of scope for the rest of what I'm describing below.

Separately, roughly 50% of the remaining port hull is reading high on moisture meter surveys, which is the larger problem I'm trying to solve.

Survey Methodology
I mapped the full port side using a Klein ET-140 moisture meter on the hardwood setting, with baseline "dry" values established from known-dry areas of the boat. My reading bands:

0–6%: dry baseline
6–9%: dry to the touch when sample-drilled
10–17%: moist to the touch
18–20%: wet
20–27%: dripping

I also tap-tested the hull to delineate the delamination boundary, and drilled exploratory holes every 12" along the lower edge of the affected area. Clear water drained out — fast initially, then slowing after a few minutes, consistent with free water at the skin/core interface draining out before the slower-draining saturated core itself.

Good news on core condition: every sample I've drilled shows good color wood — no black staining, no off-color, no odor. This appears to be wet balsa, not degraded/rotten balsa, which I understand is a meaningfully better starting point structurally.

Planned Drying Approach
For the area outside the cut-out zone, my plan is:

1. Drill a 6x6" grid of holes through the outer skin into the core across the mapped moisture areas

2. Tent the entire port side in sealed 6mil poly sheeting, standoffs to keep it off the hull

3. Run a dehumidifier and heater inside the sealed tent (closed loop — no air exchange with outside) to drive vapor diffusion out through the drilled holes

4.Drill all drainage holes at the bottom of the worst (20-27%) zones first to let gravity clear free water before relying on vapor diffusion for the rest.

5.Monitor with the Klein meter at intervals, and do one consolidated epoxy-fill of all holes at the end once the whole area reads dry — rather than filling zone by zone, to preserve the ability to rework any area that doesn't clear

What I'm Looking For
This is where I'd really appreciate the community's help:

1.Original O'Day 40 hull laminate schedule — ply count, glass weight/type, resin (poly/vinylester/epoxy), and core thickness for the hull skins. I haven't been able to find this published anywhere.

2. I saw a reference elsewhere to Rudy at D&R Marine having been involved in late-production O'Day builds — if anyone has a current contact for him or anyone else with O'Day construction knowledge, I'd appreciate it.

3. Scarf/taper ratio used by others for hull skin patches this size — my new outer skin replacement areas are roughly 2ft x several ft. I'm planning a 20:1 taper on the patch edges; interested if others have done larger structural hull skin patches and what they used.

4.Anyone who has done a similar balsa drying project — particularly interested in real-world drying timelines, what core moisture % you started and ended at, and whether tenting/dehumidifying in place worked as expected versus cut-and-replace.

5.Resin compatibility for the repair — if anyone knows what resin O'Day originally used in '87 hulls (poly vs vinylester), that affects what I can use for the new skin.

6.Anyone with a moisture survey of their own O'Day 39/40 — curious whether this is a known problem area on this hull or specific to mine.

Happy to share more detail/photos of the survey map or drilling samples if useful to anyone dealing with something similar. Will post progress and outcomes as the project moves along — and if anyone has been through this and has lessons learned (good or bad), I'd genuinely rather hear them now than after I've committed resin.

Thanks in advance, Don Evans
ODay 40 Camelot
 
May 30, 2006
370
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
I don't have specific OD 40 or hull re-coring experience, however, I would not worry about resin compatibility and use epoxy resin. Yes, its more expensive, however in the grand scheme of things it's benefits out weigh the cost.

If you can find an enclosed area for the project that will help with the dry out phase as well as extend the time that you have to preform the work. I re-cored the deck of my OD 34. Working outside in the elements cost me a lot of time between excessive heat in the summer, cold in the winter and rainy days.
 
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Mar 24, 2012
78
O'Day 40 BC Coast
Where is the compromised area?
Mine had wet/damp balsa for about a foot below a couple of the hull portlights.
I was enlarging the portlight holes to install NFM portlights and dug out the damp balsa. It wasn't black or crumbling and surprisingly tough.
I put in new balsa in layers with West System epoxy. The 1st time the layer was 2 deep and it got hot.
 
Aug 21, 2020
48
Oday 40 Dalhousie Yacht Club
Delamination areas is generalized largely around the midship port through hull transducers, and runs aft to the galley sink drain through hull.
 
Aug 21, 2020
48
Oday 40 Dalhousie Yacht Club
Session learned for other owners, next haul-out remove your transducers, remove an inch or so of balsa around the hokes, fill with thickened epoxy and reinstall.

This should have been the factory method for any through hull, port or hardware install. Over drill, fill with epoxy and redrill....never a wet hull, or deck concern.
 
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dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,330
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I had an O'Day 35 with the typical moisture around the chain plates. I removed 1/2 - 1" of the wet core surrounding the chain plate holes to get to solid wood but still had a high moisture content of around 20% extending up to a foot away. What I did was, on hot days (deck temp was 130 F. sometimes) apply a vacuum of about 30 Hg to suck the moisture out as vapor - at this atmospheric pressure water "boils" at 70 degrees. I ran it about 50 - 60 hours in total - after that, all the high moisture areas were under 10%, which is very dry. So, I would recommend rather than tenting and running dehumidifiers (which I think would be a very slow process) that you go the vacuum route. For a 3 x 10 foot area, I would get several vacuum pumps and drill a grid of holes (one for every 2 square feet sounds about right) and apply a vacuum over the whole area. Use butyl to seal around the vacuum hose where it enters the hull - get cheap 1/8" hose and connectors at Home Depot. You can build a water "capturer" from a mason jar with two holes in the top. Let me know if you have questions.
 
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Aug 21, 2020
48
Oday 40 Dalhousie Yacht Club
Had thought about the vacuum route. To clarify the 3x10 are is the delamination set to repaired via new core and outter skin.

High moisture is essentially the remainder of the port side hull, bow to Stern, above and below the waterline.

I am planning on the drying taking Aug into September...we will see.
 

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,330
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
Ok - that's a big area - maybe experiment with vacuum in a small spot.