O'Day 37 Keel

[PJ]

Currently in dry dock and the keel seam is showing. Mostly at the aft portion of the boat. The integrity of the keel bolts is good. My question is what would be the most efficient and effective method to repair the seam so that: corrosion under the seam would not occur and the seam remains intact? In addition, I want to take the cast iron keel to bare metal. After I do this what should my steps be to provide the utmost protection to the keel from corrosion?

 

[Justin - O'day Owners' Web]

Your Keel

PJ -First, and it seems like I'm always saying this, but I'd get a good glass guy out there to look at the joint with you. On some boats, when you pull the boat onto jackstands the hull flexes to reveal the joint, but flexes back correctly when launched. The Tartan 4100 at the Boston Boat Show had a huge gap, but all of them do out of the water.If it does require fixing, you can grind out the joint and seal it with 5200. You'll have a good seal and a bit of flew to keep it from opening too easily. After you strip the keel, use a product like Pettit's metal primer, then epoxy it, fair, and paint it. Lots of work, but nothing too complicated.Justin - O'day Owners' Web

 

[Peter Brennan]

What year is your O'Day 37 that it has an iron keel? Mine is a 1982 model and it has encapsulated lead. I had heard that when lead got very expensive O'Day built some boats with iron instead of lead. When I bought ours I asked the surveyor to make absolutely sure the keel was lead and not iron. I had an iron keel on an earlier boat and I would not wish that on anyone. Constant nasty maintenance.

 

[Howard Levine]

1979 is lead

My boats a 79 and it also has an encapsulated lead keel, no keel bolts either. The bilge had some delamination from water sitting in it and after drilling a few holes to dry out and epoxy i've seen no keel bolts. I did add some bracing that was water logged also. If i could only work on my house as well!