O'day 37 info

[Olivier]

I have been wondering about how the hull of my 37 O'day was built. Other O'day models have a one piece hull that was hand laminated. Does anyone know wether it is the case for the 37 model? Is it all roven fabric or does it have mat the layeres? How many layers and what thickness was used? Does anyone have this info or know where I could find it? I plan on refitting and beefing up my boat to go offshore, so any info would be welcome. So far I have retaped some bulkheads and added stringers to the hull. I have run some calculations on the buoyancy of the boat: because it is fairly light, and it has a center cockpit, it is fairly easy to make it unsinkable. I plan on doing so by making the access to the engine room waterproof. I will also divide my bilge into small watertight volumes that will be accessible via waterproof flush deck plates. I calculated that doing these modifications will allow the boat not to sink any deeper than the height of the kitchen counter, even if water were free to come in through the hatch... Not many boats offer this opportunity.I have asked Rudy at D&R Marine: he did not know the answer to my question.

 

[Justin - O'day Owners' Web]

D and R

Olivier -Rudy Nickerson used to be involved with the construction of these boats. If anyone is going to know the details, he will.You can find him through the D and R Marine Website on the links page.Justin - O'day Owners' Web

 

[Peter Brennan]

Plug it

I have several disks cut from the deck and coach roofs where I installed some odds and ends (vents, smoke stack). These are solid stuff up to 1-1/2 inches thick with layers of gelcoat, glassed resin and end-grain balsa. I did have a plug I cut from the bottom to install a keel cooler for the new refrigerator but did not keep it. Nonetheless, the hull appears to be a half inch think and very solid. I can't tell from my cores whether it is roving or mat or a combination. I do know it is strong, even though light shines through it where there is no paint.What year is your boat?I don't see how making your bilge into watertight compartments will help much. The bilge is very shallow except for the pump sump above the keel.I also wonder about your plans to make the engine room watertight. I suppoose the aft entrance could be gasketed but that sliding panel on the forward side will be a challenge.What I have done is put a bulkhead under the V-berth which both serves as a chain locker and provides some collision protection and water restraint. I have also put bulkheads under the settees in the saloon, which makes for much better storage that the boxes that came with the boat and also some delaying against flooding. Also stiffens the hull without stringers.The real problem is that this boat was not intended to be an offshore cruiser, though I would not hesitate to cross the Atlantic in her. She is just not laid out for it. Fin keel and skeg. Light displacement. Thwartship berth in the aft cabin. Superb coastal cruiser.Check out the article in the May 1, 1996, issue of Practical Sailor.

 

[Chris Coutu]

Hmm

I think the best way to handle flooding is to let everything drain to the bilge. Then installheavy duty bilge pumps. If the boat swamps up to the galley counter when your out at sea forget it. Your only hope is that the radio works to call for rescue.