ODay 35 keel bolt

Sep 20, 2005
55
None None None
Anyone know the specs for the stainless keel bolt nuts on an Oday 35? I believe them to be 3/4” (1 1/8 wrench size), but not sure what the thread on them is, or where I can buy them. My forward nut was loose, so I torqued it down as best I could, but I’d like to get a locknut for it without removing the nut that’s on it. Thanks .
 

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,335
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
Just replaced mine with these from McMaster-Carr:
194804A360Super-Corrosion-Resistant 316 Stainless Steel Hex Nut, 3/4"-10 Thread Size, Packs of 5

They also sell singles.
 
Last edited:

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,335
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I have been using 110 ft/lb - it was hard to find a defintive answer but that was pretty common and sensible. Not sure if that applies to the 34.
 

NM

.
Mar 14, 2009
10
O’Day 34 6225 Milwaukee, WI
The 3/4” bolt on my O’Day 322 specs out at 160 foot pounds.


Greg
The 3/4” bolt on my O’Day 322 specs out at 160 foot pounds.


Greg
Likewise, after a grounding, my ‘83 O’Day 34 has developed fire and aft keel smile with 3/5ths in the middle solid. Through these forums, I recently contacted Rudy Nickerson at D&R Marine (used to work at O’Day in the 1980s) states that O’Day factory 1981-89
‘34/35 keels were very solid - not changed
Never heard of keel problems
Suggest remove keel - factory couldn’t - used wedges..
Or check torques and possibly slack off fore and aft torques, lift and see how much separation opens up, repair with 5200 fair and paint and retorque bolts.
He states all are 3/4” bolts at 160 ft lbs/bolt
 

NM

.
Mar 14, 2009
10
O’Day 34 6225 Milwaukee, WI
NM update: My O’Day 34 has three 1” dia keel bolts.

Update: There are 5 total keel bolts on my 1983 O’Day 34. The three middle bolts are 1” dia. at 260 ft lbs torque.
The two fore and aft end bolts are 3/4” at 160 ft lbs torque.
You will need to find deep sockets to fit over the bolt and nut and a 1/2” x 10” extension.
Method to check if bolts had proper torque: 1) Mark a line along the bolt, nut, washer and floor plate. 2) Back off each nut, 3) Re-torque each nut to spec. 4) If the line on the nut stopped on the same line as before - the torque was correct. If the proper torque takes the nut past the marks, it was under torqued. Mine were all under torque, perhaps as much 10 degrees.. 5) You’ll need a 3/4” drive 300 ft lb torque wrench which I bought at Harbor Freight for $84 - looks very similar to my old 150 ft lb Sears torque wrench. 6) You’ll need a 10” long x 1/2 extension and 7) A strong young man to apply 260 ft lbs, and a couple blocks of wood to brace the torque wrench head against - actually worked. 8) Note, the FWD 3/4” bolt is hidden under the mast (there’s an access hole to the bolt partially covered by the mast step), but upon inspection, I found my 150 ft lb torque wrench actually had graduations beyond 160 ft lbs, and fit in the cavity. By using a 2x4 piece of wood, I was able to leverage the torque wrench handle end against the most FWD 1” bolt enough for a satisfying click at approx. 160 ft lbs.
We then ground down to gel coat a 4” wide band above the keel joint and about the same to bare steel, below. Then my yard epoxied all along the keel joint and wet laid up 3 layers of 4” fiberglass tape, 1st above, 2nd below and 3rd in the middle, and let it set up over night, which I followed by Interprotect 2000 and bottom paint. Upon lifting - no keel smile!