Oday 35 handrail removal
- Thread starter DannyS
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Danny, most I've seen have two methods of support: screws down below and then threaded rod (like all thread) into nuts/acorn nuts down below into the teak handrail with bungs.
If you have both, remove the acorn nuts, but back out the screws and tap gently UP on the SCREWS only. That way you save banging out the bungs on the all threaded ones.
Lotsa people recommend taking them all off. I don't. The curve at least on my handrails makes getting them back on a pain. I ease them up enough to redo the sealant and then just bed 'em back down.
If you have both, remove the acorn nuts, but back out the screws and tap gently UP on the SCREWS only. That way you save banging out the bungs on the all threaded ones.
Lotsa people recommend taking them all off. I don't. The curve at least on my handrails makes getting them back on a pain. I ease them up enough to redo the sealant and then just bed 'em back down.
Hey Stu, thanks for the response. The O'day 35 and I'm sure 34 used a teak rail with some sort of composite standoff (see photo). The interior handrail is the same. I want to remove the teak completely and redo it. Also, there are some sort of pads (rubber? neoprene?) under the standoffs to prevent leaks which seem sort of hokey so I want to rebed themwith butyl.
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Danny, there was a thread here just last week that talked about these "standoffs" - just another complication. Don't know how to find it but try a search on standoffs. Not much different than I suggested originally.
It's the fasteners I am talking about.
Does this help?
It's the fasteners I am talking about.
Does this help?
Danny if you can possibly do the refinish with them on the boat you will save yourself allot of frustration. I'm about 80% sure your boat is like mine. it's very hard to remove the bungs without damage to the handrails. The inside hand rails are where the nuts are and they are through bolted with 10-32 LONG screws. (if I remember right) Hard to find, save em! when if you replace.. see if you can find t-nuts instead of washers and nuts.
Thanks everyone. I spoke to Rudy at D & R yesterday to get the definitive answer from THE guy who built our boats. He said there are phillips head bolts through the exterior rails with nuts in the interior both covered with bungs. I really want to remove the rails to properly rebed them, I'm sure that has never been done on this boat. We have the gaskets under the standoffs and some of them have shifted and are exposed. The only way to fix that is to take everything off. At this point, I'm not planning to use the gasket material. I've been using butyl, so that's the plan unless I get into it and butyl seems inappropriate, then I'll go the gasket route. I'll take some photos and report back here once it's done or once I've made a huge mess of things and I need more support.
There are other strands on this topic. i've done it and agree with complete removal. There is a gap between deck and liner. I think it is critical to fill this with epoxy paste so it can't compress, can't leak, etc. And I replaced the 10-32 screws with 1/4-20. They are readily available in any length - requires a bigger bung but not a problem. And if you are reusing the interior rail it's likely you will want to drill it out clean for a larger bung anyway.
Thanks for this post! Mine leaks (stbd. aft) Started to remove the hand rail but realized the screws were impossible to find. So maybe I will finish the job this summer.
I replaced my teak on top with stainless. I lucked into a bracket that had a single hole. It was1/4 28 but I re-tapped to 1/4-20. I left the teak inside but got tired of dealing with refinishing outside. The process I used was filling the holes with epoxy then redrilling the holes. As far as getting the bungs out I used a forstner bit into the rail just below the surface then ran a wood screw in to back the bing out. Using the 1/2" forstner broke the surface so the glue did make the rail split.
On reassembly I used 1/4-20 pan head screws that went through the teak into SS rail bracket then was topped off with an acorn nut. To stop leaking I used a countersink on the deck side opening. Silicone was placed in the hole, then the bolt was pushed through and I put an o-ring with a 1/4" id opening. This was pushed to the countersink on the deck. Then the bracket was put on and screwed down. Half the thickness of the o-ring was above the deck. The countersink taper pushes the o-ring into the bolt and seals the bracket to the deck. The acorn acts as a lock nut. Mine don't leak and are extremely solid
On reassembly I used 1/4-20 pan head screws that went through the teak into SS rail bracket then was topped off with an acorn nut. To stop leaking I used a countersink on the deck side opening. Silicone was placed in the hole, then the bolt was pushed through and I put an o-ring with a 1/4" id opening. This was pushed to the countersink on the deck. Then the bracket was put on and screwed down. Half the thickness of the o-ring was above the deck. The countersink taper pushes the o-ring into the bolt and seals the bracket to the deck. The acorn acts as a lock nut. Mine don't leak and are extremely solid
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