Considering purchasing a 322 ODay. Does anyone have information on what to look for and how much it should cost? Jason_Thibaudeau@woodbridgegroup.com
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
322
Jason - I haven't heard of particular defects to look for in a 322, but some of things you should be looking for in any boat are water in the laminate, leaks where deck fittings are bedded, and play in rudder and prop shaft. Standing rigging should probably be replaced, unless the seller can document that its less than ten years old. Sails are hard to judge unless you can sail the boat. Consider taking them to a loft to have them checked over. Look at www.bucnet.com and www.nada.com for book valuation of boats. These will give you a good sense of what a reasonable price is. Remember these are listings of what boat have sold for, not what they might sell for, so boats that have only a few entries may have skewed valuations. Then, if you like the boat and the price is right, have the boat surveyed. You'll need a survey for insurance anyway. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Jason - I haven't heard of particular defects to look for in a 322, but some of things you should be looking for in any boat are water in the laminate, leaks where deck fittings are bedded, and play in rudder and prop shaft. Standing rigging should probably be replaced, unless the seller can document that its less than ten years old. Sails are hard to judge unless you can sail the boat. Consider taking them to a loft to have them checked over. Look at www.bucnet.com and www.nada.com for book valuation of boats. These will give you a good sense of what a reasonable price is. Remember these are listings of what boat have sold for, not what they might sell for, so boats that have only a few entries may have skewed valuations. Then, if you like the boat and the price is right, have the boat surveyed. You'll need a survey for insurance anyway. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Jim
O'Day 322
I have an 1989 O'Day 322, it's a great boat with lots of bang for the buck. Depending on the age and condition of the boat your probably looking at low $30s to low $40s. An 1989 is good shape will be towards the uper $30s to low $40s. The layout and features of the '89 322 make it an ideal boat for families and short cruising. The boat sails and motors well.
I have an 1989 O'Day 322, it's a great boat with lots of bang for the buck. Depending on the age and condition of the boat your probably looking at low $30s to low $40s. An 1989 is good shape will be towards the uper $30s to low $40s. The layout and features of the '89 322 make it an ideal boat for families and short cruising. The boat sails and motors well.
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Albert Strasser
Important Check Points
Check these items: 1. Keel bolts. The 322's bolts are supported by washer-type backing plates compressing the hull's fiberglass shell. The lead wing keel weighs nearly 4000 lbs and the wing configuration imposes additional forces on the hull when the boat lifts out and plunges back in to the water. Occasional groundings can also affect the integrity of the keel - hull connection. Though the designer (Hunt Associates) maintains that the keel stump is adequate, I experienced a mishap when the keel ripped through the bottom and the boat nearly sank. 2. Many of the last original 322s came with mast-attached Isomat roller furling mains. Mine and others have had serious furling and unfurling problems that continue to this day (12 years later!) even though considerable time and money was spent trying to solve the problem. 3. I had to install turning blocks for the jib sheets when I realized that it was difficult to handle the sheets quickly under heavy conditions. I also installed an additional block on each jib sheet track to prevent the sheets constant chaffing against the cabin's aft section. 4. Check to see if the hull-mounted black plastic spill caps on both sides of the hull are missing or broken: they are not protected against dock scrapes, etc and are easily torn off leaving the interior threaded hose loose and unsecured. 5. Check the integrity of the toe rails and the deck-hull seal. 6. Inspect the roller sheaves inside the main boom for missing or broken ones. 7. Inspect the 2 deck hatches for hinge problems (missing or misaligned pieces, broken or damaged rivets, etc.). 8. Inspect the mountings of both cabin roof solar powered exhaust fan units. They are poorly mounted and easily offset. 9. Check the rudder assembly system for loose bearings, linkage, etc. 10. Inspect the two cockpit scuppers for blockage, damage, etc. Very poor drainage under normal conditions. Not ideal for heavy weather. 11. Inspect the throttle and clutch cables and their yoke in the Edson pedestal and their connection near the engine. 12. Check all hose connections. 13. Inspect all engine components, including filters, belts, oil level and condition, coolant, and especially make certain that all engine mountings are in place, etc. The Yanmar 2GM20 is only a 16hp deisel in spite of Oday's literature claiming 18hp. 14. Inspect the rudder for damage, delamination, air pockets, deformation, etc. 15. Check the propeller for correct size, damage, etc. Also check the prop shaft for trueness and damage from electrolysis, etc. Inspect the cutlass bearing and the stuffing box. 16. Inspect the wing keel for proper alignment ,seating, hull separation, and general condition. The soft lead easily reveals any damage caused by groundings, underwater obstructions, etc. 17. Check if the anchor rolling plate assembly has its anchor line retaining pin. 18. Inspect the cabin interior for missing ceiling finishing caps, port alignment and condition, sole damage, cabinet hinges and trim, etc. The under the sink water tank switch tends to bind, leading to handle breakage. Inspect the ceiling over the V-berth port entry for cracking under the stress of the port's partition. Note: if cracked, it may also be visible topside. Check the icebox water pumpout located next to the sink faucet. Check the knotmeter paddle wheel located under the forward starboard settee cushion for damage, etc. I could continue with more but I think you have enough to work with. Good luck!
Check these items: 1. Keel bolts. The 322's bolts are supported by washer-type backing plates compressing the hull's fiberglass shell. The lead wing keel weighs nearly 4000 lbs and the wing configuration imposes additional forces on the hull when the boat lifts out and plunges back in to the water. Occasional groundings can also affect the integrity of the keel - hull connection. Though the designer (Hunt Associates) maintains that the keel stump is adequate, I experienced a mishap when the keel ripped through the bottom and the boat nearly sank. 2. Many of the last original 322s came with mast-attached Isomat roller furling mains. Mine and others have had serious furling and unfurling problems that continue to this day (12 years later!) even though considerable time and money was spent trying to solve the problem. 3. I had to install turning blocks for the jib sheets when I realized that it was difficult to handle the sheets quickly under heavy conditions. I also installed an additional block on each jib sheet track to prevent the sheets constant chaffing against the cabin's aft section. 4. Check to see if the hull-mounted black plastic spill caps on both sides of the hull are missing or broken: they are not protected against dock scrapes, etc and are easily torn off leaving the interior threaded hose loose and unsecured. 5. Check the integrity of the toe rails and the deck-hull seal. 6. Inspect the roller sheaves inside the main boom for missing or broken ones. 7. Inspect the 2 deck hatches for hinge problems (missing or misaligned pieces, broken or damaged rivets, etc.). 8. Inspect the mountings of both cabin roof solar powered exhaust fan units. They are poorly mounted and easily offset. 9. Check the rudder assembly system for loose bearings, linkage, etc. 10. Inspect the two cockpit scuppers for blockage, damage, etc. Very poor drainage under normal conditions. Not ideal for heavy weather. 11. Inspect the throttle and clutch cables and their yoke in the Edson pedestal and their connection near the engine. 12. Check all hose connections. 13. Inspect all engine components, including filters, belts, oil level and condition, coolant, and especially make certain that all engine mountings are in place, etc. The Yanmar 2GM20 is only a 16hp deisel in spite of Oday's literature claiming 18hp. 14. Inspect the rudder for damage, delamination, air pockets, deformation, etc. 15. Check the propeller for correct size, damage, etc. Also check the prop shaft for trueness and damage from electrolysis, etc. Inspect the cutlass bearing and the stuffing box. 16. Inspect the wing keel for proper alignment ,seating, hull separation, and general condition. The soft lead easily reveals any damage caused by groundings, underwater obstructions, etc. 17. Check if the anchor rolling plate assembly has its anchor line retaining pin. 18. Inspect the cabin interior for missing ceiling finishing caps, port alignment and condition, sole damage, cabinet hinges and trim, etc. The under the sink water tank switch tends to bind, leading to handle breakage. Inspect the ceiling over the V-berth port entry for cracking under the stress of the port's partition. Note: if cracked, it may also be visible topside. Check the icebox water pumpout located next to the sink faucet. Check the knotmeter paddle wheel located under the forward starboard settee cushion for damage, etc. I could continue with more but I think you have enough to work with. Good luck!
R
Robert Phillips
O'Day 322 purchase
I recently purchased an 87' 322 from a brokerage in Seattle. The boat had always been in Idaho in fresh water and hauled every winter. Good condition with many nice features. I paid $34,900 for the boat and felt I got a fair deal. The survey came back at $38,000.
I recently purchased an 87' 322 from a brokerage in Seattle. The boat had always been in Idaho in fresh water and hauled every winter. Good condition with many nice features. I paid $34,900 for the boat and felt I got a fair deal. The survey came back at $38,000.
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