O'day 28 FWD End of Blackwater Tank Access

Aug 7, 2021
164
O'day 28 Casco Bay
During the course of my research into replacing the sanitation hoses and upgrading the blackwater tank venting, I had read some posts where owners said that they did not replace the tank vent hose because of access issues. Well, in my case, I decided to rectify this by cutting an access hole in the V-berth because I really wanted the smell gone and the vents properly done. The vent hoses on the tank are undoubtedly original and pretty nasty.

Accomplishing this was not hard, but I could see why some folks might be intimidated by the idea. The V-berth bottom is a couple of layers of glass with a foam core and four foam ribs. One goes up the centerline and two others run parallel to the skin of the vessel. lastly, there is one that runs athwartships just forward of the after access hatch. The first thing I did was measure from the after access port to the forward edge of the tank and drew it on the painter's tape. This gave me an idea of where and how big the hatch should be. Next, I figured that the port and starboard edges of the new port should be about an inch inboard from the ribs. To detemine where the inner edge of the outer ribs were located, I used a tape measure and gauged the distance from the edge of the after port out to the rib. I generated three points and then used a straightedge to extrapolate this forward to where the port will be located, and offset this inboard about an inch. The forward and aft lines were just a guess to make sure I had plenty of access to plug the old vent port and cut the hole for the Uniseal.

The cuts are not pretty, but I wasn't concerned because no one will ever see this except me and it is about function. Also, be advised, that I wore out three jigsaw blades in the process.

One question I have is what does one use to clean out all the black nastiness in there?
 

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dmax

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Jul 29, 2018
1,335
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I have used Tile-X to remove mold on gel-coat, pretty powerful stuff.
 
Aug 7, 2021
164
O'day 28 Casco Bay
Thanks for the input.
How do you plan on covering the hole? Or do you?

It is fairly easy to make the piece I cut out replacable and removable. I plan on adding cleats around the perimeter of the hole using 1" wide strips of plywood. I'll post images when it is completed.
 
Dec 2, 1997
9,011
- - LIttle Rock
One question I have is what does one use to clean out all the black nastiness in there?
I'm guessing you're referring to sludge on the bottom of the tank. If it's still "mud," some liquid detergent--Dawn is good--and water should liquify it enough to pump it out within about 24 hours. No need to fill the tank (cleaning tank walls is another project)....just put enough enough water into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting--'cuz that send the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up the sludge--to cover the bottom to a depth of about 6". Let it sit for 24 hours, then try pumping it out. If you're successful at pumping any of it out, repeat with just clean fresh water till you're pumping out only clean water.

But if it's turned to "concrete," you may be stuck with it.

--Peggie
 
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Aug 7, 2021
164
O'day 28 Casco Bay
For Richard 19068 - here are images of how I replaced the access panel in the v-berth and made it removable. The cleats are 2" x 11" pieces of 1/4" plywood and 6 flat head SS wood screws. The hole in the center is big enough to stick your finger in and pull up. Viola! Also note the new vent using a UNISEAL, PVC pipe and some 1" VETUS sanitation hose. The hose is only about 6" long and connects the vent outlet to a 4' +/- piece of pipe which makes the straight run (angled upward) back to the hanging locker. Then another 90 elbow, a short piece of pipe and then another piece of hose to the thru-hull.
 

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Aug 7, 2021
164
O'day 28 Casco Bay
I forgot to add one more image. This is a lower view of the vent piping going from the PVC to the STBD vent and the 1.5" Raritan hose going to the pump-out deckfill.
 

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