I want to change the Cutlass Bearing on my 1982 O'Day 28. I would like to know if anyone has experience with this and are there tools available that can do the job.
Jeff H.
Jeff H.
Oday 28 Cutlass Bearing
- Thread starter Jeff H.
- Start date
Cutlass bearing
Did the one one my O'day 30. I couldn't pull the shaft, the rudder prevented it. I was planning on rebuilding the transmission so I pulled it. That let the shaft push up inside the boat and just out of my way. The old cutlass bearing was not budging. It turned out that it was lock-tited in. I used a fine hacksaw blade to carefully cut through it. I fed it through the bore with tape on both ends. Once through, I used a small wood chisel with the corners radiused to peel it out. You have to be careful installing the new one. If the bore is tight it might fold up on you, they are very delicate when sticking out. If you know a machinist who can make you a pilot that would help. If you can get it on the shaft and use that to start and align it.
Did the one one my O'day 30. I couldn't pull the shaft, the rudder prevented it. I was planning on rebuilding the transmission so I pulled it. That let the shaft push up inside the boat and just out of my way. The old cutlass bearing was not budging. It turned out that it was lock-tited in. I used a fine hacksaw blade to carefully cut through it. I fed it through the bore with tape on both ends. Once through, I used a small wood chisel with the corners radiused to peel it out. You have to be careful installing the new one. If the bore is tight it might fold up on you, they are very delicate when sticking out. If you know a machinist who can make you a pilot that would help. If you can get it on the shaft and use that to start and align it.
I did a change out of the Cutlass Bearing on my 28 Oday 1986 with the bronze shaft in place (the shaft was not disconnected from the transmission coupler). I made my own puller for removal and installation. I found a piece of stainless tubing with the Inside dimension a hair larger than the shaft diameter and a hair smaller than the OD of the cutlass bearing. I split it in half lengthwise (lenght was three inches longer than the cutlass bearing. I welded tabs on one end out of stainless plate and drilled holes in each tab for 1/2 threaded rod (grade 8). I placed these two halves on the shaft and place Stainless Clamps to hold it together. You will be pulling the cutlass bearing towards the prop end ( the prop will be off ). You will than have to fabricate a piece to go on the prop end of the strut with a hole in the center just a little larger than the OD of the cutlass bearing. This piece will néed to be large enough to drill holes for the 1/2 inch threaded rod. Do you know vision what the parts look like??
Removing the bearing: take out the Allen screws holding the bearing in place. I than took a strain on the 1/2 inch threaded rod. Using a propane torch heat the under side of the strut. Don't get carried away with the heat. Watch to see if the cutlass bearing move. If it didn't cool the entire strut to hand touch and try again. It will move eventually but once it begins to move, no more heat just continue taking up on the threaded rod evenly. The threaded rods may need to be larger if the cutlass is really in the strut tight. That's how I got mine out.
Removing the bearing: take out the Allen screws holding the bearing in place. I than took a strain on the 1/2 inch threaded rod. Using a propane torch heat the under side of the strut. Don't get carried away with the heat. Watch to see if the cutlass bearing move. If it didn't cool the entire strut to hand touch and try again. It will move eventually but once it begins to move, no more heat just continue taking up on the threaded rod evenly. The threaded rods may need to be larger if the cutlass is really in the strut tight. That's how I got mine out.