I noticed a leak on the headliner below my 1987 Oday 272. When I pulled back the headliner, I noticed that the area on the hull below the stanchion appears to be "rotting"? Is this a piece of wood or fiberglass? I looked at the manual and it appears that there is a screw that attaches the deck to the hull and perhaps seats into a strip of wood that runs the length of the hull just below the deck. Does anyone know if this is the case? If so, I plan on repairing the stanchion leak but don't know if I should worry about these "rotting" areas. They are below two or three stanchions but do not run the full course.
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I noticed a leak on the headliner below my 1987 Oday 272. When I pulled back the headliner, I noticed that the area on the hull below the stanchion appears to be "rotting"? Is this a piece of wood or fiberglass? I looked at the manual and it appears that there is a screw that attaches the deck to the hull and perhaps seats into a strip of wood that runs the length of the hull just below the deck. Does anyone know if this is the case? If so, I plan on repairing the stanchion leak but don't know if I should worry about these "rotting" areas. They are below two or three stanchions but do not run the full course.
fix area of leaks
Chris: The problem of leaking chainplates is common among O'Day sailboats that are not recaulked routinely. That problem causes many bulkhead problems is some of the O'Day boats. Yes you should fix area that seems rotted or otherwise compromised. If the area around the base of the chainplates is weakened it can fail under windy conditions. There are several methods of fixing the weakened area. Hopefully others will recommend fixes for your particular boat on this forum. Since it is your project, boat and safety involved, you choose the best fix. This fix will not be accomplished in one day. Whichever method you choose after study of the options, you can begin immediately by drying the area. I would prefer to do this fix on dry land with mast down. If that is not a possible approach, then begin by covering the affected area to prevent additional seepage. If you have dockside power, get a small space heater and dry from inside. You may also want to pipe or force warm dry air thru affected area. This drying process usually takes weeks. Note that I have an O'Day 26 nearby on Lake Hartwell. Ed K
Chris: The problem of leaking chainplates is common among O'Day sailboats that are not recaulked routinely. That problem causes many bulkhead problems is some of the O'Day boats. Yes you should fix area that seems rotted or otherwise compromised. If the area around the base of the chainplates is weakened it can fail under windy conditions. There are several methods of fixing the weakened area. Hopefully others will recommend fixes for your particular boat on this forum. Since it is your project, boat and safety involved, you choose the best fix. This fix will not be accomplished in one day. Whichever method you choose after study of the options, you can begin immediately by drying the area. I would prefer to do this fix on dry land with mast down. If that is not a possible approach, then begin by covering the affected area to prevent additional seepage. If you have dockside power, get a small space heater and dry from inside. You may also want to pipe or force warm dry air thru affected area. This drying process usually takes weeks. Note that I have an O'Day 26 nearby on Lake Hartwell. Ed K
fix area of leaks
Chris: The problem of leaking chainplates is common among O'Day sailboats that are not recaulked routinely. That problem causes many bulkhead problems is some of the O'Day boats. Yes you should fix area that seems rotted or otherwise compromised. If the area around the base of the chainplates is weakened it can fail under windy conditions. There are several methods of fixing the weakened area. Hopefully others will recommend fixes for your particular boat on this forum. Since it is your project, boat and safety involved, you choose the best fix. This fix will not be accomplished in one day. Whichever method you choose after study of the options, you can begin immediately by drying the area. I would prefer to do this fix on dry land with mast down. If that is not a possible approach, then begin by covering the affected area to prevent additional seepage. If you have dockside power, get a small space heater and dry from inside. You may also want to pipe or force warm dry air thru affected area. This drying process usually takes weeks. Note that I have an O'Day 26 nearby on Lake Hartwell. Ed K
Chris: The problem of leaking chainplates is common among O'Day sailboats that are not recaulked routinely. That problem causes many bulkhead problems is some of the O'Day boats. Yes you should fix area that seems rotted or otherwise compromised. If the area around the base of the chainplates is weakened it can fail under windy conditions. There are several methods of fixing the weakened area. Hopefully others will recommend fixes for your particular boat on this forum. Since it is your project, boat and safety involved, you choose the best fix. This fix will not be accomplished in one day. Whichever method you choose after study of the options, you can begin immediately by drying the area. I would prefer to do this fix on dry land with mast down. If that is not a possible approach, then begin by covering the affected area to prevent additional seepage. If you have dockside power, get a small space heater and dry from inside. You may also want to pipe or force warm dry air thru affected area. This drying process usually takes weeks. Note that I have an O'Day 26 nearby on Lake Hartwell. Ed K
Use putty
We have an Oday 26 that had a minor problem with leaking chainplates. In the past we've tried nearly every sealant we could find to fix the leak. Nothing seemed to work for long. The problem with chainplates, and possibly stantions, is that they are subjected to shifting loads. Once your sealant dries, it becomes inflexible. It doesn't adapt to the movement of chainplates and the seal breaks. We have found that duct seal, available at any hardware store, works the best. Just press it into the seal with your finger. Unlike most marine sealants, duct seal remains gummy and flexes with the chainplates, etc. The only downside...it's black. There may be other colors though. You could use it around your stantions to stop any further leaking. As far as the rotting is concerned, you will have to decide if the rot is affecting the boat's structural integrity. I'm not familiar with the Oday 272, so I can't advise you about the severity of the problem. If you're unsure, show it to a professional. Lots of little leaks could become one big leak.
We have an Oday 26 that had a minor problem with leaking chainplates. In the past we've tried nearly every sealant we could find to fix the leak. Nothing seemed to work for long. The problem with chainplates, and possibly stantions, is that they are subjected to shifting loads. Once your sealant dries, it becomes inflexible. It doesn't adapt to the movement of chainplates and the seal breaks. We have found that duct seal, available at any hardware store, works the best. Just press it into the seal with your finger. Unlike most marine sealants, duct seal remains gummy and flexes with the chainplates, etc. The only downside...it's black. There may be other colors though. You could use it around your stantions to stop any further leaking. As far as the rotting is concerned, you will have to decide if the rot is affecting the boat's structural integrity. I'm not familiar with the Oday 272, so I can't advise you about the severity of the problem. If you're unsure, show it to a professional. Lots of little leaks could become one big leak.
Use putty
We have an Oday 26 that had a minor problem with leaking chainplates. In the past we've tried nearly every sealant we could find to fix the leak. Nothing seemed to work for long. The problem with chainplates, and possibly stantions, is that they are subjected to shifting loads. Once your sealant dries, it becomes inflexible. It doesn't adapt to the movement of chainplates and the seal breaks. We have found that duct seal, available at any hardware store, works the best. Just press it into the seal with your finger. Unlike most marine sealants, duct seal remains gummy and flexes with the chainplates, etc. The only downside...it's black. There may be other colors though. You could use it around your stantions to stop any further leaking. As far as the rotting is concerned, you will have to decide if the rot is affecting the boat's structural integrity. I'm not familiar with the Oday 272, so I can't advise you about the severity of the problem. If you're unsure, show it to a professional. Lots of little leaks could become one big leak.
We have an Oday 26 that had a minor problem with leaking chainplates. In the past we've tried nearly every sealant we could find to fix the leak. Nothing seemed to work for long. The problem with chainplates, and possibly stantions, is that they are subjected to shifting loads. Once your sealant dries, it becomes inflexible. It doesn't adapt to the movement of chainplates and the seal breaks. We have found that duct seal, available at any hardware store, works the best. Just press it into the seal with your finger. Unlike most marine sealants, duct seal remains gummy and flexes with the chainplates, etc. The only downside...it's black. There may be other colors though. You could use it around your stantions to stop any further leaking. As far as the rotting is concerned, you will have to decide if the rot is affecting the boat's structural integrity. I'm not familiar with the Oday 272, so I can't advise you about the severity of the problem. If you're unsure, show it to a professional. Lots of little leaks could become one big leak.
Chris,
As an owner of a 32cc and have had the same problems I can tell you a solution is to remove the stanchions and drill out the holes to about a 5/8 inch,cover the openings on the bottom with duct tape and make a batch of thickened West System and fill the holes up to the top. after it drys you drill out the stanchion holes for the correct size bolt and rebed your stantion. by putting epoxy in the holes and water gets in there in the future it will not migrate into the wood like its been doing,this is a very common problem with ODay's and other mfg's. On my boat I had to make access holes in the cabin liner to get to the nuts and after I removed the stanchions I let it dry out for a couple of months under a tarp and also used a heat gun to help it along (you won't have the problem of rain where you are) I also made backing plates cause ODay used these little weeny washers Do an archive search on stanchion leak and you'll get a world of infomation
As an owner of a 32cc and have had the same problems I can tell you a solution is to remove the stanchions and drill out the holes to about a 5/8 inch,cover the openings on the bottom with duct tape and make a batch of thickened West System and fill the holes up to the top. after it drys you drill out the stanchion holes for the correct size bolt and rebed your stantion. by putting epoxy in the holes and water gets in there in the future it will not migrate into the wood like its been doing,this is a very common problem with ODay's and other mfg's. On my boat I had to make access holes in the cabin liner to get to the nuts and after I removed the stanchions I let it dry out for a couple of months under a tarp and also used a heat gun to help it along (you won't have the problem of rain where you are) I also made backing plates cause ODay used these little weeny washers Do an archive search on stanchion leak and you'll get a world of infomation
Chris,
As an owner of a 32cc and have had the same problems I can tell you a solution is to remove the stanchions and drill out the holes to about a 5/8 inch,cover the openings on the bottom with duct tape and make a batch of thickened West System and fill the holes up to the top. after it drys you drill out the stanchion holes for the correct size bolt and rebed your stantion. by putting epoxy in the holes and water gets in there in the future it will not migrate into the wood like its been doing,this is a very common problem with ODay's and other mfg's. On my boat I had to make access holes in the cabin liner to get to the nuts and after I removed the stanchions I let it dry out for a couple of months under a tarp and also used a heat gun to help it along (you won't have the problem of rain where you are) I also made backing plates cause ODay used these little weeny washers Do an archive search on stanchion leak and you'll get a world of infomation
As an owner of a 32cc and have had the same problems I can tell you a solution is to remove the stanchions and drill out the holes to about a 5/8 inch,cover the openings on the bottom with duct tape and make a batch of thickened West System and fill the holes up to the top. after it drys you drill out the stanchion holes for the correct size bolt and rebed your stantion. by putting epoxy in the holes and water gets in there in the future it will not migrate into the wood like its been doing,this is a very common problem with ODay's and other mfg's. On my boat I had to make access holes in the cabin liner to get to the nuts and after I removed the stanchions I let it dry out for a couple of months under a tarp and also used a heat gun to help it along (you won't have the problem of rain where you are) I also made backing plates cause ODay used these little weeny washers Do an archive search on stanchion leak and you'll get a world of infomation
Chris... do fix problems...
Chris, I see your reply about letting situation go without good fix. I sail on similar lake as yours and not that far away. Been sailing this lake for a number of years. We do get unexpected gusts that can knock you down. If you are hanging on a life line by a stanchion not on solid foundation, you may find yourself or a shipmate in the water. That is dangerous. Fix the soft spots, especially around the base of anything fastened to the deck. Reread the replies, they offer good information. There are many articles out there on fixing this type problem. See the link for one source. Another source would be west system web site refering to their epoxyworks magazine and look at some of the older back issues for good information. Ed K
Chris, I see your reply about letting situation go without good fix. I sail on similar lake as yours and not that far away. Been sailing this lake for a number of years. We do get unexpected gusts that can knock you down. If you are hanging on a life line by a stanchion not on solid foundation, you may find yourself or a shipmate in the water. That is dangerous. Fix the soft spots, especially around the base of anything fastened to the deck. Reread the replies, they offer good information. There are many articles out there on fixing this type problem. See the link for one source. Another source would be west system web site refering to their epoxyworks magazine and look at some of the older back issues for good information. Ed K
Chris... do fix problems...
Chris, I see your reply about letting situation go without good fix. I sail on similar lake as yours and not that far away. Been sailing this lake for a number of years. We do get unexpected gusts that can knock you down. If you are hanging on a life line by a stanchion not on solid foundation, you may find yourself or a shipmate in the water. That is dangerous. Fix the soft spots, especially around the base of anything fastened to the deck. Reread the replies, they offer good information. There are many articles out there on fixing this type problem. See the link for one source. Another source would be west system web site refering to their epoxyworks magazine and look at some of the older back issues for good information. Ed K
Chris, I see your reply about letting situation go without good fix. I sail on similar lake as yours and not that far away. Been sailing this lake for a number of years. We do get unexpected gusts that can knock you down. If you are hanging on a life line by a stanchion not on solid foundation, you may find yourself or a shipmate in the water. That is dangerous. Fix the soft spots, especially around the base of anything fastened to the deck. Reread the replies, they offer good information. There are many articles out there on fixing this type problem. See the link for one source. Another source would be west system web site refering to their epoxyworks magazine and look at some of the older back issues for good information. Ed K
The screws in your diagram, I think are just to ...
attach the rub rail. If it was structural join of deck to hull they should be bolted not screwed. That area of the boat can get pretty well hit. The top and side are probably cememted chemically together. the stachions should be thru bolted and have some sort of backer plate made of SS or 1/4 in. thick resin drenched fiberglass. Sometimes they cheap out with large fender washers. I had a stanchion pulled out of another boat and the backer plate left a 4in hole in the deck itself ... now that's the kind of attachment you want. Vic "Seven" 272 le #622
attach the rub rail. If it was structural join of deck to hull they should be bolted not screwed. That area of the boat can get pretty well hit. The top and side are probably cememted chemically together. the stachions should be thru bolted and have some sort of backer plate made of SS or 1/4 in. thick resin drenched fiberglass. Sometimes they cheap out with large fender washers. I had a stanchion pulled out of another boat and the backer plate left a 4in hole in the deck itself ... now that's the kind of attachment you want. Vic "Seven" 272 le #622
The screws in your diagram, I think are just to ...
attach the rub rail. If it was structural join of deck to hull they should be bolted not screwed. That area of the boat can get pretty well hit. The top and side are probably cememted chemically together. the stachions should be thru bolted and have some sort of backer plate made of SS or 1/4 in. thick resin drenched fiberglass. Sometimes they cheap out with large fender washers. I had a stanchion pulled out of another boat and the backer plate left a 4in hole in the deck itself ... now that's the kind of attachment you want. Vic "Seven" 272 le #622
attach the rub rail. If it was structural join of deck to hull they should be bolted not screwed. That area of the boat can get pretty well hit. The top and side are probably cememted chemically together. the stachions should be thru bolted and have some sort of backer plate made of SS or 1/4 in. thick resin drenched fiberglass. Sometimes they cheap out with large fender washers. I had a stanchion pulled out of another boat and the backer plate left a 4in hole in the deck itself ... now that's the kind of attachment you want. Vic "Seven" 272 le #622
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