Does anyone know where I might find a good set of companionway boards? I have checked D&R and all they have are for 23, 25 & 26's. Will the 26 work on the 27?
O'Day 272 companionway boards
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You may be better off either having them made by a good cabinet maker, or you could make them yourself. You could mock up some boards out of cheap 3/8" or 1/2" plywood and use it as a pattern to make a couple of boards out of solid Teak, Mahogany, StarBoard or acrylic. I doubt if boards from another O'Day would fit this boat.
27 companion way boards
I agree with joe, boards from another boat most likely will not fit.
Do you have old boards? to use as template for new boards?
If not, use cardboard to make template and start by making a single board plywood door. My experience is even using the cardboard door as template, the plywood door will still need adjustments to make it fit well.
1/4 inch plywood will probably work fine. Coat with your preferance, varnish, paint, gelcoat. A sinlge door will allow for mounting nicro vent or screen window.
Or once you have door that fits good, you can use as template for slated door.
I would not use plexiglass or lexon because for whole door they would weigh too much.
Ed K
Sceter,
I agree with joe, boards from another boat most likely will not fit.
Do you have old boards? to use as template for new boards?
If not, use cardboard to make template and start by making a single board plywood door. My experience is even using the cardboard door as template, the plywood door will still need adjustments to make it fit well.
1/4 inch plywood will probably work fine. Coat with your preferance, varnish, paint, gelcoat. A sinlge door will allow for mounting nicro vent or screen window.
Or once you have door that fits good, you can use as template for slated door.
I would not use plexiglass or lexon because for whole door they would weigh too much.
Ed K
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I just wanted to add that where the boards butt up together in the middle of the companionway hatch opening, it is customary to cut them at a 45 degree angle so that a driving rain won't get in through the seam. Of course the seam angle on the outside boards needs to be up .
Plywood drop boards are OK but the end grain on the best Teak exterior plywood drop boards needs to be sealed with an epoxy or Polyurethane so that moisture won't enter and cause it to de-laminate. I'm on my second set of Teak plywood drop boards now and I think my next set of boards are going to be made of solid wood of some kind.
Plywood drop boards are OK but the end grain on the best Teak exterior plywood drop boards needs to be sealed with an epoxy or Polyurethane so that moisture won't enter and cause it to de-laminate. I'm on my second set of Teak plywood drop boards now and I think my next set of boards are going to be made of solid wood of some kind.
solid wood of some kind
"Solid wood of some kind" - but what kind of wood. I have tried cyprus but as cabinet makers say, "it moves". By moving that includes warping and chaining shapes. I tried cyprus because of its reputation of standing up to moisture and weather.
Cedar might be a choice, if you can live with the knots, they add character.
What ever wood you choose, it must be one that stands weather, that is why they choose teak. However, the cost of teak is silly.
I suspect that a good exterior or marine grade plywood with all ends treated with thinned epoxy as sealer then painted or varnished will last a few years. I would not spend the money on teak plywood. The vaneer is so thin that it does not act as teak.
Oak comes in several varieties. While a little hard to work, it seems to hold up well. Maple and cherry are readily available, but I have no experience on exterior usage. Redwood holds up to weather, but is fragile, that is on thin usage, the edges splinter. But it is easy to work.
The issue here is one that does not warp. If it warps, it could be challenge getting into cabin.
BTW, in my spare time I can be found here:
http://www.greenvillewoodworkers.com/
Here you learn accuracy and that wood moves...
Ed K
http://www.greenvillewoodworkers.com/CharitableProjects/CharitableProjects.htm
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"Solid wood of some kind" - but what kind of wood. I have tried cyprus but as cabinet makers say, "it moves". By moving that includes warping and chaining shapes. I tried cyprus because of its reputation of standing up to moisture and weather.
Cedar might be a choice, if you can live with the knots, they add character.
What ever wood you choose, it must be one that stands weather, that is why they choose teak. However, the cost of teak is silly.
I suspect that a good exterior or marine grade plywood with all ends treated with thinned epoxy as sealer then painted or varnished will last a few years. I would not spend the money on teak plywood. The vaneer is so thin that it does not act as teak.
Oak comes in several varieties. While a little hard to work, it seems to hold up well. Maple and cherry are readily available, but I have no experience on exterior usage. Redwood holds up to weather, but is fragile, that is on thin usage, the edges splinter. But it is easy to work.
The issue here is one that does not warp. If it warps, it could be challenge getting into cabin.
BTW, in my spare time I can be found here:
http://www.greenvillewoodworkers.com/
Here you learn accuracy and that wood moves...
Ed K
http://www.greenvillewoodworkers.com/CharitableProjects/CharitableProjects.htm
I had Rudy at D & R make me new acrylic hatch boards (or whatever material they are), to replace our 272 LE Hatch boards...he can do make those if you wish to see out ....it's another option....they were not cheap, but they look much better than the 23 year old boards that were pretty scratched.
It's cool to be able to see out in storms.. Good Luck, Patrick in Wichita
After we were broke into, I bought 1 x 8 white plastic boards from Home Depot/Lowes to make new ones. They don't warp or fade - no maintenance - and I have found by accident that they float !!!!
Using a table saw, cut a simple rabbet joint where they join to keep the weather out. I also glued the bottom two, and top two togehter, using regular PVC pipe cement, so we only have two boards to install/remove. The stow very well behind the stove.
Again, using the table saw, a wide rabbet on each side allowed them to fit snuggly in the existing hatch slots. Round the bottom corners - cut and open four 1/2" holes on the top edge to feed running rigging back into the cabin when closed - transfer the hasp - and you should get years of service without maintenance. Total cost about $ 15.00.
I try to avoid bright work, although some would say its blaspheme.
Jurgy
'89 302
Using a table saw, cut a simple rabbet joint where they join to keep the weather out. I also glued the bottom two, and top two togehter, using regular PVC pipe cement, so we only have two boards to install/remove. The stow very well behind the stove.
Again, using the table saw, a wide rabbet on each side allowed them to fit snuggly in the existing hatch slots. Round the bottom corners - cut and open four 1/2" holes on the top edge to feed running rigging back into the cabin when closed - transfer the hasp - and you should get years of service without maintenance. Total cost about $ 15.00.
I try to avoid bright work, although some would say its blaspheme.
Jurgy
'89 302
When you say white plastic boards, are you talking about Trex? I just replaced a 1"x 5"x12" Teak board under my mast tabernacle with Trex. That stuff is phenomenal. I think that stuff can last forever. I never thought of using it for hatch boards. I'm going to look into that.
My friend Wayne made some hatch boards for his Seaward 22 out of HDPE and they came out pretty good.
I used redwood siding with shiplap seams. There's five of them so takes a bit to open but with some stain and a few coats of varnish they look really nice. And never leak.
Wish I had a photo that showed a closer view.
Wish I had a photo that showed a closer view.
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Trinkka -
The white plastic boards are stocked back by the exterior trim. Used around windows and doors, the plastic eliminates the rot issues. Wayne's use of HDPE was probably the same material, just using the correct name.
Trex type materials are not as dense and have a coarser texture, but are designed with more structual strength. Better suited for the tabernacle than un-supported plastic.
Either choice however will outlast any wood products.
Jurgy
'89 302
The white plastic boards are stocked back by the exterior trim. Used around windows and doors, the plastic eliminates the rot issues. Wayne's use of HDPE was probably the same material, just using the correct name.
Trex type materials are not as dense and have a coarser texture, but are designed with more structual strength. Better suited for the tabernacle than un-supported plastic.
Either choice however will outlast any wood products.
Jurgy
'89 302
If you want white plastic boards, West Marine or any good chandler can get it for you. It is called Starboard Lumber. Solid teak is a good hardwood to make companionway drop boards, but you really should make them with end caps and not just cut out the boards to fit your open space. You can glue two boards together to get the required width you need for each board, because you probably won't find teak that wide. You should tongue and groove the glued seams and us either epoxy or resourcinol glue (and clamp it). This works well with teak and is a dark brown, so blends in nicely too. By gluing 1 inch or better pieces so the grain runs up and down instead of sideways (horizontally), you will eliminate cupping of the wood years down the road. Remember the butcher block cutting boards placed over stove burners? They had end pieces to prevent warping or cupping. The only thing is they also used cheap glue (not so waterproof). You need the good stuff because your boards will be exposed to the weather. Ephifanes Glossy Varnish (formulated for teak) is great stuff to make your boards shine and look good for years. Plexiglass is easy, but you can see through it (little privacy) and it does scratch and get cloudy in time. Lexan is best. It is stronger, but softer (so scratches more easily than acrylic).
Thank you for the info Bill. In my area we have three marine consignment stores that carry used solid Teak. Right now I have some Teak plywood hatch boards on my boat that have been cupping. I had sealed the end grain but they are still cupping and one of the boards is starting to delaminate.
I may go with StarBoard but I'll never buy it at "Worst Marine." I was in a hurry and needed 30' of RG 8X coax a couple of weeks ago and they soaked me $1.99 a foot for it.
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