You may be better off either having them made by a good cabinet maker, or you could make them yourself. You could mock up some boards out of cheap 3/8" or 1/2" plywood and use it as a pattern to make a couple of boards out of solid Teak, Mahogany, StarBoard or acrylic. I doubt if boards from another O'Day would fit this boat.Does anyone know where I might find a good set of companionway boards? I have checked D&R and all they have are for 23, 25 & 26's. Will the 26 work on the 27?
Sceter,You may be better off either having them made by a good cabinet maker, or you could make them yourself. You could mock up some boards out of cheap 3/8" or 1/2" plywood and use it as a pattern to make a couple of boards out of solid Teak, Mahogany, StarBoard or acrylic. I doubt if boards from another O'Day would fit this boat.
----------- // ---------I just wanted to add that where the boards butt up together in the middle of the companionway hatch opening, it is customary to cut them at a 45 degree angle so that a driving rain won't get in through the seam. Of course the seam angle on the outside boards needs to be up .
Plywood drop boards are OK but the end grain on the best Teak exterior plywood drop boards needs to be sealed with an epoxy or Polyurethane so that moisture won't enter and cause it to de-laminate. I'm on my second set of Teak plywood drop boards now and I think my next set of boards are going to be made of solid wood of some kind.
I had Rudy at D & R make me new acrylic hatch boards (or whatever material they are), to replace our 272 LE Hatch boards...he can do make those if you wish to see out ....it's another option....they were not cheap, but they look much better than the 23 year old boards that were pretty scratched.Does anyone know where I might find a good set of companionway boards? I have checked D&R and all they have are for 23, 25 & 26's. Will the 26 work on the 27?
I need to pay attention to what I'm saying...I had Rudy at D & R make me new acrylic hatch boards (or whatever material they are), to replace our 272 LE Hatch boards...he can do make those if you wish to see out ....it's another option....they were not cheap, but they look much better than the 23 year old boards that were pretty scratched.
It's cool to be able to see out in storms.. Good Luck, Patrick in Wichita
When you say white plastic boards, are you talking about Trex? I just replaced a 1"x 5"x12" Teak board under my mast tabernacle with Trex. That stuff is phenomenal. I think that stuff can last forever. I never thought of using it for hatch boards. I'm going to look into that.After we were broke into, I bought 1 x 8 white plastic boards from Home Depot/Lowes to make new ones. They don't warp or fade - no maintenance - and I have found by accident that they float !!!!
Using a table saw, cut a simple rabbet joint where they join to keep the weather out. I also glued the bottom two, and top two togehter, using regular PVC pipe cement, so we only have two boards to install/remove. The stow very well behind the stove.
Again, using the table saw, a wide rabbet on each side allowed them to fit snuggly in the existing hatch slots. Round the bottom corners - cut and open four 1/2" holes on the top edge to feed running rigging back into the cabin when closed - transfer the hasp - and you should get years of service without maintenance. Total cost about $ 15.00.
I try to avoid bright work, although some would say its blaspheme.
Jurgy
'89 302
Thank you for the info Jurgy.Trinkka -
The white plastic boards are stocked back by the exterior trim. Used around windows and doors, the plastic eliminates the rot issues. Wayne's use of HDPE was probably the same material, just using the correct name.
Trex type materials are not as dense and have a coarser texture, but are designed with more structual strength. Better suited for the tabernacle than un-supported plastic.
Either choice however will outlast any wood products.
Jurgy
'89 302
Thank you for the info Bill. In my area we have three marine consignment stores that carry used solid Teak. Right now I have some Teak plywood hatch boards on my boat that have been cupping. I had sealed the end grain but they are still cupping and one of the boards is starting to delaminate.If you want white plastic boards, West Marine or any good chandler can get it for you. It is called Starboard Lumber. Solid teak is a good hardwood to make companionway drop boards, but you really should make them with end caps and not just cut out the boards to fit your open space. You can glue two boards together to get the required width you need for each board, because you probably won't find teak that wide. You should tongue and groove the glued seams and us either epoxy or resourcinol glue (and clamp it). This works well with teak and is a dark brown, so blends in nicely too. By gluing 1 inch or better pieces so the grain runs up and down instead of sideways (horizontally), you will eliminate cupping of the wood years down the road. Remember the butcher block cutting boards placed over stove burners? They had end pieces to prevent warping or cupping. The only thing is they also used cheap glue (not so waterproof). You need the good stuff because your boards will be exposed to the weather. Ephifanes Glossy Varnish (formulated for teak) is great stuff to make your boards shine and look good for years. Plexiglass is easy, but you can see through it (little privacy) and it does scratch and get cloudy in time. Lexan is best. It is stronger, but softer (so scratches more easily than acrylic).