Oday 23 Windows Reseal Project

[G Newboat]

I have four windows on my Oday 23 that need resealing. I took out the larger port side window and cleaned out all the ineffective window glazing that was added. Is it normal to have just two sheets of fiberglass roughly cut to accommodate the window frame, or am I missing something in between them? It seems when I tighten the screws, it will always pull on the walls unevenly, creating leaks. Should I maybe cut a donut of wood, or HDPE to put between the walls for stability? I've heard of marine silicone. Is this what should be used here? I also have butyl tape, but that seems like it would be too bulky for this application.
Also, how hard is it to polish the plexiglass? These really are showing their age.
And do you think I should I take the frame completely apart and reseal the tinted plexiglass into the frame?

 

[G Newboat]

Alright, I've cleaned everything out and looked at it again. I think this butyl tape is what I want to use. It needs to seal between the hull and outside flashing, and I think the tape will give the best long-term bond.

Does anyone know about polishing the dull windows? I think some headlamp restoration kits include a clear coat. Anyone have experience with it?

 

[Tally Ho]

Sorry to be late to the party…

Yes, the 2 skins of fiberglass are pretty typical. I would try to fill the gap with something…maybe some wood and some epoxy, smooth it out, make it waterproof.

I am not too sure you can polish the plexiglass to make it clear again. You could give the headlight treatment a try and see, but if they are crazed, I don’t think it will “buff out”.

DR Marine (D & R Marine) Carrie’s a lot of O’Day parts and may have the fixed windows for your new boat.

Alternately, you could take the old windows to a window place and see if they can cut new ones (or,you can buy the plexiglass and cut it yourself.

If you do try the headlight kit, and it comes with a UV “finish’, use that too to try and keep it from degrading further (And let me know if it works! My O322 has some windows that need some love).

Cheers,

Greg

 

[Project_Mayhem]

This is one of the few applications where you do not want to use butyl. With one layer of butyl it wont seal due to the lip of the window frame. If you use two layers, you will never be able to compress it enough to get the frame flush with the fiberglass. It will forever be collecting dirt at the edges. I used Loctite's marine sealant (equivalent to 4200 and has long term testing by Practical Sailor) four years ago and it's been leak free ever since. Be careful with the frames. They are very brittle. They are repairable if they do chip however

 

[G Newboat]

I wet sanded the windows with 1000 grit, then buffed them clear using a DA with 3M heavy cut, then medium cut/polish. I had to use some compound and 1500 cloth for the edges, but they came out really nice. (A Dremel spins much too fast for the plexiglass.) I'll put the Turtle Wax ceramic spray on them regularly.
I found out about the butyl being too thin/too thick. Maybe you could cool and wet down some 3/8" butyl and send it through a press. I went with a sealant that has a "lifetime guarantee" right there on the tube. We'll see how it looks in 5 years.

 

[Tally Ho]

I wet sanded the windows with 1000 grit, then buffed them clear using a DA with 3M heavy cut, then medium cut/polish. I had to use some compound and 1500 cloth for the edges, but they came out really nice. (A Dremel spins much too fast for the plexiglass.) I'll put the Turtle Wax ceramic spray on them regularly.
I found out about the butyl being too thin/too thick. Maybe you could cool and wet down some 3/8" butyl and send it through a press. I went with a sealant that has a "lifetime guarantee" right there on the tube. We'll see how it looks in 5 years.

Got any “before” and “after” photos ?

Greg