O'Day 23 Tabernacle retrofit

[GeorgiaBII]

Bought a tabernacle from Rudy for my 23 it doesn't have any instructions but I suspect I need to cut the mast a bit to account for the added height? Also do I attach the mast to the new step or does it just slip on?


Thank you.

 

[Sunbird22358]

Do you have a 1974 model 23 pop-top? or is he the earlier model wihere the whole cabin is raised? The 1974 model should have already had a tabernacle and so all you should need to do is remove the old parts and install the new ones in their place.

If you boat is one of the older models then here is the basic procedure:
The mast will need to be cut just above the point where the mast comes through the deck, and again just enough higher to make up for the height of the tabernacle assembly. The upper half of the tabernacle will be attached to the mast with a couple machine screws through the mast and the step. The lower part of the tabernacle will need to be likewise attached to the lower part of the mast. You will also need to drill a hole through the lower end of the mast and through the original mast step in the bilge to allow a pin or bolt to be inserted to prevent the lower part of the mast from coming off the original step as low lower /raise the mast.
I'm VERY surprised that Rudy did not supply you with some instructions, I have a copy of the instructions for this modification on the Day Sailer and Javelin, although the measurements are different, the basic modification is similar enough that I'll attach a scanned copy below.

So, I assume you have decided to abandon the pop-top! It is too bad that the design of that feature required a keel-stepped mast..... kind of reduced her trailerability.

 

[GeorgiaBII]

Hey Sunbird,

It's still the pop top but it's not the one that requires the keel stepped mast thankfully!

As of when I bought it it didn't have a tabernacle on the boat. Just a cast step on the top of the cabin for the mast. I'm adding the tabernacle so I don't need to weedle a crew to come help raise mast each time I go sailing.

As for the pop top part of the boat I'm seriously considering taking that off and building a nice wooden deck/roof in it's place. The top is a bit bowed from neglect and doesn't look all that great.

With the mast not being keel stepped I'll still have to cut won't I? Seems the new tabernacle is going to be about an inch taller than the previous setup of just the cast step.

 

[Joe11688]

Bought a tabernacle from Rudy for my 23 it doesn't have any instructions but I suspect I need to cut the mast a bit to account for the added height? Also do I attach the mast to the new step or does it just slip on?


Thank you.

Can you take some pics of the bottom of your mast with what you have now, and some pics of the tabernacle and mast plug that you got off Rudy and post them?

Usually, when you buy a mast hinge or tabernacle you get a mast casting or mast plug with it or it comes extra.

I had to cut my mast last year and I used a power cross cut saw with a carbide tip blade. This is what they use at Dwyer Mast and most spar companies.
Generally, the casting fits into the bottom of the mast and it's held in place with screws through the side of the mast.

I'm not sure what kind of a mast tabernacle you have, but here is a picture of mine. I had to make my own mast plug up because they are unavailable for my mast.

The first pic shows what I originally had for a mast plug which is stainless steel. This was made up by a rigger in RI and it caused the demise of the bottom of my mast. You can see where I had the mast welded.
The other pics show the plug that I made for my mast. I used Aluminum and some man made fiber materials to construct it.
I used stainless steel screws to hold the plug in the mast. The screws go through nylon washers and I added a little dab of Never-Seize to insulate the SS screws from the Aluminum. I did the same thing with the two 1/4" bolts in the plug where they pass through the 1/4" Aluminum plate in which the mast sit on.
Years ago, I had to add length to my mast for my stays to fit. That's why there's a Teak board under my Tabernacle in the picture. I've since changed it to a Trex board which will stand up to weather a lot better.
Joe

 

[GeorgiaBII]

This is what I was sent from Rudy, Actually was drop shipped from Dwyer aluminum mast co.

What is on the boat now is a similar casting without the metal hinge box under it.

Bottom of the mast is open

 

[Joe11688]

It's evident that you're going to need to cut your mast but I'm not sure what type of fasteners you should use like stainless steel machine screws, rivets, or whatever else they use. I wouldn't want rivets because I'd want to have access to the wiring in the mast. I'm wondering if stainless steel screws would corrode after a while. They have some stuff you can put on them to prevent corrosion. Rudy had told me that Never-Seize would also work.
I would give Rudy a call just to be on the safe side and ask him about this.
Outside of that, you just need to make sure that the mast is centered in the same spot on the cabin as the old cast Aluminum step. Some lines drawn in with a pencil will take care of that.
I would make double sure of what needs to be cut off the mast. If possible, when you get the lower hinge bolted to the cabin, I would just insert the plug with the upper hinge attached to it, into the mast before drilling the holes, and raise the mast to see how your stays are going to fit. Do you know what I mean?
It's not easy trying to spot new holes in the side of the mast in order to line up the threaded holes in the mast plug. I know this because I had to do it last year when I had to put my old mast plug back in after I cut my mast. If the new casting fits sloppy, just shim it with duct tape or something. If the stays come right, then you can let the mast down and drill the holes through the mast and casting for the permanent attachment. This is what I would do.

Another thing to consider is the caulking under the cabin hinge plate. This will take up some space. I used Butyl Tape. I countersunk the bolt holes just a little in the fiberglass.
Check out Main Sail's thread on bedding deck hardware.
http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172
Last year I used this method on my tabernacle and hopefully I'll never have a problem with leaks. Good luck with this. I know that I would have a few questions on this too. I think that Rudy would be the one to ask.
Joe

 

[GeorgiaBII]

Thanks Joe,

I'll give rudy a shout monday but what I was considering doing is measuring the change in height between the original step and the new step as installed.

As for cauk that is in the plans and I'm also going to inject some resin in the area to firm things up. When I drilled the new holes I was not happy with the core condition. But at this point it'll be next years big job.

I swear I spend more time and treasure on this "cheap" boat than I'd ever dreamed I would. But it's a fun hobby.

 

[Joe11688]

Thanks Joe,

I'll give rudy a shout monday but what I was considering doing is measuring the change in height between the original step and the new step as installed.That will work.

As for cauk that is in the plans and I'm also going to inject some resin in the area to firm things up. When I drilled the new holes I was not happy with the core condition. But at this point it'll be next years big job. There's always something to do on these boats and you can't do everything all at once.

I swear I spend more time and treasure on this "cheap" boat than I'd ever dreamed I would. But it's a fun hobby. I have a lot of fun doing some of the stuff on my boat. It's been cold with a North wind blowing every day and I haven't been doing much of anything on my boat. I'll be right out there again as soon as it warms up. I have to clean out the cabin, load up the rest of the gear including my boat food and I'll be pretty much done.

 

[GeorgiaBII]

I have a lot of fun doing some of the stuff on my boat. It's been cold with a North wind blowing every day and I haven't been doing much of anything on my boat. I'll be right out there again as soon as it warms up. I have to clean out the cabin, load up the rest of the gear including my boat food and I'll be pretty much done.

My goal is to eventually be where you are now. Basic maintenance and load the gear for a season of sailing. After that I'd love to hit salt water for some real sailing.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Joe11688]

My goal is to eventually be where you are now. Basic maintenance and load the gear for a season of sailing. After that I'd love to hit salt water for some real sailing.

Thanks for all the help.

That sounds like a plan to me.

 

[Joe11688]

I think that Dwyer mast extrusions are riveted in place.
http://www.dwyermast.com/pdfs/SparKitflyer.pdf
Myself, I don't favor this. At some point in time I would want to remove the casting and tabernacle, plus the mast head, to gain access to my wiring. I really don't like messing with rivets.
The way that Z-Diffusion has my mast head attached is pretty ingenious. The took two 1/4"x 5" stainless steel bolts and bent them so that each bolt can be inserted into a hole on each side of the mast a couple of inches down from the top and the bolts protrude up inside the mast to secure the mast head with two nuts and lock washer at the top of the mast head. What could be stronger and easier than that? There is still room to mount the anchor light on top of the mast head. If you look close, you can see the two bolt heads on the side of the mast holding the mast head with the nuts and washers on top. I don't know but I thought it was pretty neat the way they attached the mast head. I've had it off a few times and it makes life a lot easier when you need to get at the wires.

 

[RichBone]

My mast base looks like yours and has 3 holes tapped into it. One front two side. If your mast doesn't already have the holes, and it won't if you shorten it, then install the base into the mast, drill the holes, tap the holes in the base then enlarge the holes in the mast. 1/4"-5/16" screws should be large enough. The ends of the boom are done the same except they're riveted and I had to drill and tap the ends when I changed them. Here's a pic of my mast base.

Here is the fore boom end before I changed it and the gooseneck.

 

[Sunbird22358]

Trinka has already basically said this.....but looking at the new tabernacle, measure how tall it is (just the stainless part) snd cut that much off the bottom of the mast, being sure to cut square (or parallel to original mast bottom if it is angled slightly?). The original mast step and hte new one that is attached to the hinge "should" be the same height (within a very small fraction of an inch) and so all you need to compensate for is the height of the hinge part.

I seem to recall other 1973/74 O'DAY 23s that, like yours did not come with a hinged mast step. I guess it was optional? I don't think O'DAY really thoroughly thought out the concept of a trailerable cruiser too well! I would have thought a tabernacle would logically be standard....... guess it was a cost-cutting decision? Oh, well, not hard to fix!

 

[GeorgiaBII]

Oh, well, not hard to fix!

Hehe... Not hard to fix the man says... I was sweating bullets squaring the tabernacle and positioning it before I drilled holes.

 

[Joe11688]

Hehe... Not hard to fix the man says... I was sweating bullets squaring the tabernacle and positioning it before I drilled holes.

I cheated a little. I had my son bring down his Makita cross cut power saw and had him cut my mast. He's a carpenter and does it for a living.
I only sweated when I had to spot the new holes in the side of the mast to my old stainless steel mast plug and I came up with this fugly monstrosity last year to get me by for the season. The last two pics show the permanent extrusion. It's a lot lighter in weight, and it doesn't look too bad.

 

[Sunbird22358]

Easy if you have the right tools! <GRIN!>
But..... the "right"tools aren't exactly portable.......and bringing the mast to the location of the right tool(s) isn't practical now that I think about it.

Well, I meant well!

 

[Joe11688]

Easy if you have the right tools! <GRIN!>
But..... the "right"tools aren't exactly portable.......and bringing the mast to the location of the right tool(s) isn't practical now that I think about it.

Well, I meant well!

I just bought a Black & Decker Professional 12" crosscut saw with a carbide tip blade for $20 in a yard sale and it works beautiful but last year my son brought his Makita crosscut power saw and we set it up outside on the picnic table with the mast supported on a portable work bench. I used a wooden wedge to tweak up the angle of the mast for a perfect 90 degree cut.

I had to borrow my other son's saber saw to cut the 1/4" Aluminum plate. I was able to use my band saw to cut the Trex and the PVC Foam Board but I had to use Wayne's belt sander to finish it off.
I have most of the tools to work with on these projects but I don't have them all. My kids and and my friends have helped me as far as the tools go. What I don't have at the house, I know that they have.