I'm getting a 23 that needs work. The biggest ? is the centerboard. What is it made of, and what is the pivot pin made of? What do I need to check? I would have a yard lift it off the trailer to inspect/paint.
O'Day 23 centerboard
- Thread starter Golden Road
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You didn't mention the year of this O'Day 23. If it's a 1973 or older keel/centerboard sloop, you're going to need to deal with a boat with a cast iron keel which is rusted out particularly inside the keel slot where the centerboard is located. It's going to be a challenge to fix up, but not impossible. The centerboards were made of Fiberglass on these boats and I think that the pivot pins were fiber. Rudy of D&R Marine carries just about anything you'll need for this boat. http://www.drmarine.com/ There are some guys on this forum, one guy in particular named Nateman who is working on one of these boats right now and has some great pics posted of his progress. Also, a fellow in the Providence RI area had taken the challenge on one of these boats and did a magnificent job at restoring it back to almost new condition. If you have a later model O'Day 23, which has a lead keel, you should have very little problem removing the centerboard provided that you can set the boat up on blocks with sailboat stands to get under the keel and work on it. These centerboards are removed from under the keel. There are wedges and stainless steel plates under the keel which support the fiber pivot pin for the centerboard inside the keel slot. Check through the archives on this site for pictures of it. I have posted many pics on these sites of my keel/centerboard on my O'Day 222 which is basically the same as what is on most O'Day K/C sloops. If you have any questions, just sing out.
Joe
Thankfully my CB works from what i've been told. Although my boat only saw freshwater. Kenny Chaos also has an early 23, he may let his CB go to the right person. Let us know what you run into! Hopefully we have another pop top owner on the boards!
Thank you guys. This 23 has a lead keel. So the center bd. is fiberglass pivoting on a fiberglass pin... hmmm. Any particular problems with the boards? Delam, breakage? A simple rope connected to raise and lower, I guess.
I don't think that the centerboards are as bad as the rudder blades as far as delamination is concerned. Your blade may have small stones or marine growth that is restricting it if that's your problem. I've removed my board on my O'Day 222 and the fiber pivot pin was still in great shape. You probably need to check the pendant shackle or whatever you have for a termination on the board. I checked my shackle this past spring and found that the cotter pin for the shackle rigging pin was broke so I replaced it. If you decide to remove the plates under the keel be careful not to break the stainless steel bolts. There's always one or two that can be stubborn. Check the archives on centerboards. I go into some specific directions on how to remove the bolts and wedges. Don't remove the centerboard unless you really must. If you do remove it, it would be wise to clean out the keel slot and add a couple of coats of ablative bottom paint in it before to put it back.
I just hauled out and looked at the plates/wedges for my centerboard. One of the wedges is gone, and the holes that accept the screws for the cover plate appear to be eaten up pretty badly, so that the plate must of come loose and allowed the wedge to just drop right out. And it must be something that happened a long time ago because the spot where the plate used to be is covered in 2-3 coats of bottom paint. Why on earth the PO would see that problem and not want to fix it immediately is beyond me...
Anyway, I'm thinking about filling and redrilling the holes for the cover plates. Only problem is, I've never applied epoxy uphill. Any ideas on how I can do this? I was thinking of letting the epoxy get partway through set up and thickened with filler (like peanut butter) so that I can push it into the screw holes with a plastic knife. Once I get the hole filled as much as possible, I'll tape it and let set. Ideas would be appreciated!
Anyway, I'm thinking about filling and redrilling the holes for the cover plates. Only problem is, I've never applied epoxy uphill. Any ideas on how I can do this? I was thinking of letting the epoxy get partway through set up and thickened with filler (like peanut butter) so that I can push it into the screw holes with a plastic knife. Once I get the hole filled as much as possible, I'll tape it and let set. Ideas would be appreciated!
The PO might have had problems with the threads and decided that since the centerboard was still working then ......
Run a bolt tap up into the holes first just to see what's going on. I think that there might be a metal insert for the threads. Or maybe the screw was broken off.
Rich
Run a bolt tap up into the holes first just to see what's going on. I think that there might be a metal insert for the threads. Or maybe the screw was broken off.
Rich
I'm getting fond of the stick epoxy. just cut off a piece mix in hand and apply. Working pretty good.
tom c
tom c
I was under the impression that the plate was held on with wood screws. A metal insert would be more complicated for sure. :bang:
different screws
Consider that O'Day had three differnet plants. That each plant used what it wanted or had on hand.
Ed K
O26
Snow Birds:
My screws were six wood screws - O 26. No metal to be had.
Consider that O'Day had three differnet plants. That each plant used what it wanted or had on hand.
Ed K
O26
Snow Birds:
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Before you do any epoxying, see if there is any solid metal in those holes for the 1/4" bolts. I think that there are nuts embedded in the lead of your keel. As far as your wedge is concerned, you can construct a new one by using the old one as a pattern. I had to reconstruct the wedges on my 222 when I had them out. There should be two wood screws that go into the wedges and the plates are held on with 1/4" bolts.
I honestly believe that what really holds those two wedges in place is the caulking. Without the caulking, I don't think that those metal plates could hold that centerboard unless it had larger bolts.
I'm going down to see Rudy this Saturday because I need some new reefing line. I'll ask him about the nuts or whatever O'Day used for holding those plates to the keel and I'll get back to you on it. I went down there this past Saturday and he wasn't open. He and Debbie may have been on vacation because I tried getting him on the phone all last week and only got his answering service.
I have other questions that I'd like to ask him like for instance, how they installed the small sheave in the keel slot for the pendant line. I think that the small hump under the sole plate cover was a small fiberglass box or cap which was added after they installed the strap, sheave, and backup plate with the two 1/4" bolts. They fiberglassed it in place and painted it with a rubberized paint. I don't see any other way that they could have done it, do you? I think that this system that O'Day used for the keel/centerboard is the best that there ever was. It's very ingenious compared to what was used on the Quickstep Sloops.
I honestly believe that what really holds those two wedges in place is the caulking. Without the caulking, I don't think that those metal plates could hold that centerboard unless it had larger bolts.
I'm going down to see Rudy this Saturday because I need some new reefing line. I'll ask him about the nuts or whatever O'Day used for holding those plates to the keel and I'll get back to you on it. I went down there this past Saturday and he wasn't open. He and Debbie may have been on vacation because I tried getting him on the phone all last week and only got his answering service.
I have other questions that I'd like to ask him like for instance, how they installed the small sheave in the keel slot for the pendant line. I think that the small hump under the sole plate cover was a small fiberglass box or cap which was added after they installed the strap, sheave, and backup plate with the two 1/4" bolts. They fiberglassed it in place and painted it with a rubberized paint. I don't see any other way that they could have done it, do you? I think that this system that O'Day used for the keel/centerboard is the best that there ever was. It's very ingenious compared to what was used on the Quickstep Sloops.
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Joe,
Whatever information you come up with would be appreciated. I saw that Rudy gets $70 for the wedges, which got me thinking I need to make them myself. Did you make yours from plywood/epoxy? I was wondering about something else like solid PVC board that can be had for about $20. At lease I have one wedge left that I can use as a template.
Whatever information you come up with would be appreciated. I saw that Rudy gets $70 for the wedges, which got me thinking I need to make them myself. Did you make yours from plywood/epoxy? I was wondering about something else like solid PVC board that can be had for about $20. At lease I have one wedge left that I can use as a template.
My wedges were pretty much in tact. They had small pieces missing around the bottom edge where the wood screws attach to them through the plates. In fact, my wood screws were missing and I had to buy a couple at the hardware store. I bought two that fit the holes and just guessed at the length needed. I reconstructed the wedges with West System Epoxy and filler. I don't see why you couldn't make them out of 1/4" exterior plywood and use epoxy to seal it with some filler to get the right thickness. After you apply your adhesive caulking to the wedges and stick them in there, get your plates bolts and drill some holes into the wedges for the wood screws. Then let the caulking set up and paint the wedges with an ablative bottom paint or whatever you use for bottom paint. You'd never know the difference. Even if a guy was missing both of those wedges, he could make a "One Off" of them by using one of those grooves as a pattern or mold.
I've been using Super Ship Bottom Ablative paint for years now and I favor this paint over anything that "Worst Marine" sells. The SSB can be applied over bare fiberglass and it will adhere to most bottom paints.
As far as what to use for wedge material, just go with your gut feelings. You want something that is going to be strong and hard. The epoxy will do the rest.
When I removed my centerboard a few years ago, I cleaned the keel slot good and gave it two coats of ablative bottom paint. I didn't paint the grooves where the wedges insert though. I left them bare for the caulking to adhere to.
Nate,
The early 23s had fiberglass centerboards. I'm pretty sure about that. As for the plates, wedges, and pivot pins, I really don't know. The only way to find out about yours is to take a peek at it from under the keel.
OK guys, I have some good news for you concerning the plates and bolts under the keel. :dance: I just got back from Rudy's and we had a talk about the keels for the O'Day keel/centerboards. There are no nuts embedded in those keels. There is a plate embedded in the lead on the bottom of your keel. That means that you can either re-drill the holes or drill them and tap them for threads in a different spot. I would coat the bolts with Never-Seize before inserting them just case you need to remove them again. He also has the single sheave with the straps in stock.
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