Hello again: Well, I have found boat to look at and am wondering what specific trouble areas to look for. The owner has already told me the there was some leakage related to the chain plates. Is this a major problem to repair? Also, what about cosmetic repairs? I assume that the bulkheads are some sort of fiber board. Is this correct? Lastly, I have only seen one picture of the boat. There is of course a blue stripe where the hull meets the deck and there is some indication of fading. Can this be brought back? Any info or thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
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chain plates
My boat is a 1982 model and yes the chain plates leaked an rotted the plywood they attach to in the cabin. I laminated 1/4in teak ply and 1/4in luan then used old bulkhead as a template cutting the new one oversize at first. I am not a skilled wood worker but believe that the new bulkhead is as good as new. Before installing the chain plates i used a router too open the deck slot a little cleaned the balsa core and refiled with thickened epoxy . then recut slot in deck big enough for chain plate and a generous amount of sealant. I then installed c-plates, sealant, and covers but did not fully tighten covers for several days so that when I did tighten they pushed against the setup sealantI hope that makes a better seal. By the way I think the 23 is a great sailboat to weekend or as I usually do day sail off a trailer. If you have more ?'s e-mail me.
My boat is a 1982 model and yes the chain plates leaked an rotted the plywood they attach to in the cabin. I laminated 1/4in teak ply and 1/4in luan then used old bulkhead as a template cutting the new one oversize at first. I am not a skilled wood worker but believe that the new bulkhead is as good as new. Before installing the chain plates i used a router too open the deck slot a little cleaned the balsa core and refiled with thickened epoxy . then recut slot in deck big enough for chain plate and a generous amount of sealant. I then installed c-plates, sealant, and covers but did not fully tighten covers for several days so that when I did tighten they pushed against the setup sealantI hope that makes a better seal. By the way I think the 23 is a great sailboat to weekend or as I usually do day sail off a trailer. If you have more ?'s e-mail me.
Trouble Spots
You will want to get the chainplate leaks fixed right away. The port side plate on our '81 23 appears to have been leaking for a long time before we purchased it and the core is rotted out for about a 12" diameter around it. Fortunately the deck adds NO support for the shrouds at all. It all comes from the bulkhead so check it carefully. I second checking the anchor locker drain and the scupper drain hose. Russ
You will want to get the chainplate leaks fixed right away. The port side plate on our '81 23 appears to have been leaking for a long time before we purchased it and the core is rotted out for about a 12" diameter around it. Fortunately the deck adds NO support for the shrouds at all. It all comes from the bulkhead so check it carefully. I second checking the anchor locker drain and the scupper drain hose. Russ
If the chain plates on O'Days are such a problemS
Why not redesign them? My previous boat was a Laguna Windrose 24. The chainplates were securely bolted to the side of the fiberglass hull. There was never a chance of the chainplates failing because a wooden bulkhead rotted. I don't think that it would be too hard to fabricate new chainplates for an O'Day that carried their stress on the hull and not on the bulkheads.
Why not redesign them? My previous boat was a Laguna Windrose 24. The chainplates were securely bolted to the side of the fiberglass hull. There was never a chance of the chainplates failing because a wooden bulkhead rotted. I don't think that it would be too hard to fabricate new chainplates for an O'Day that carried their stress on the hull and not on the bulkheads.
chaIN PLATES
Larry, at first I thought I had written this post. You said it perfectly. I do feel some folks just have no clue though. gene
Larry, at first I thought I had written this post. You said it perfectly. I do feel some folks just have no clue though. gene
Chain Plates
I wouldn't try to take the chain plates out to the side of the hull. First off the hull isn't design to do that and is VERY thin. When I installed the porta-potti vent thru-hull fitting I was shocked at how thin the hull is. It would take some substantial backing to spread the forces out sufficiently. I would always be nervous that on a 25-30 knot day it would rip the side of the hull out. It really is that thin. Hey Larry, do you have any more pictures of your bulkhead replacement project?? I'm looking at doing the same thing this winter when I tackle the rotted port side deck. I want to replace both bulkheads at the same time along with the carpeting above the settees. Russ
I wouldn't try to take the chain plates out to the side of the hull. First off the hull isn't design to do that and is VERY thin. When I installed the porta-potti vent thru-hull fitting I was shocked at how thin the hull is. It would take some substantial backing to spread the forces out sufficiently. I would always be nervous that on a 25-30 knot day it would rip the side of the hull out. It really is that thin. Hey Larry, do you have any more pictures of your bulkhead replacement project?? I'm looking at doing the same thing this winter when I tackle the rotted port side deck. I want to replace both bulkheads at the same time along with the carpeting above the settees. Russ
Chain Plates, caulking and wiring
I just have a few questions of those of you in the know. I have an O'Day 23', purchased 3 years ago and it appears to be in good shape. It is just dirty, sitting on land for a while. Went inside the other day and started cleaning, had not been in the inside believe or not, it was dry, some of the compartment wood covers on the benches need re-fitted. Removed the floor cover to the keel, some water in the compartment, very little. I have a solid keel. All in all very dry, no water inside the hull that I could see. You mention the chain plates where are they, and where all of the hardware is attached to the deck. It seems solid, should I still remove the harware and check where it is attached? When replacing the hardware what to seal with? How would water get in the compartment just below the floor above the keel? I found the wiring coming out of the compartment where the battery was located. Will replace the flooring for the battery and put in a battery box, how do you connect the wires? 12 volt marine? What is the best Fiberglas polish for inside and out, where to get it, (Lowes or Wal-Mart)? Thanks, Robert
I just have a few questions of those of you in the know. I have an O'Day 23', purchased 3 years ago and it appears to be in good shape. It is just dirty, sitting on land for a while. Went inside the other day and started cleaning, had not been in the inside believe or not, it was dry, some of the compartment wood covers on the benches need re-fitted. Removed the floor cover to the keel, some water in the compartment, very little. I have a solid keel. All in all very dry, no water inside the hull that I could see. You mention the chain plates where are they, and where all of the hardware is attached to the deck. It seems solid, should I still remove the harware and check where it is attached? When replacing the hardware what to seal with? How would water get in the compartment just below the floor above the keel? I found the wiring coming out of the compartment where the battery was located. Will replace the flooring for the battery and put in a battery box, how do you connect the wires? 12 volt marine? What is the best Fiberglas polish for inside and out, where to get it, (Lowes or Wal-Mart)? Thanks, Robert
Oday 23 issues
I have had my Oday 23 (1979) for seven years. I echo the chain plates warning, also the anchor locker drain. The portholes are also prime suspects for leaking. Make sure the cockpit drain is ok too. The drain from the cockpit floor is attached to a hose that feeds to the through hull behind the rudder, just above the water line. If this hose fails, the boat fills up with water. End of story. Have an assistant pour some water into the cockpit drain while you look at the hose itself; it is "accessable" from the seat locker. If it leaks even a little, fix it fast. Even if it doesn't leak, put this project on your priority to do list. Unless you know for sure that hose has been replaced, it probably is original and due to fail at any time.
I have had my Oday 23 (1979) for seven years. I echo the chain plates warning, also the anchor locker drain. The portholes are also prime suspects for leaking. Make sure the cockpit drain is ok too. The drain from the cockpit floor is attached to a hose that feeds to the through hull behind the rudder, just above the water line. If this hose fails, the boat fills up with water. End of story. Have an assistant pour some water into the cockpit drain while you look at the hose itself; it is "accessable" from the seat locker. If it leaks even a little, fix it fast. Even if it doesn't leak, put this project on your priority to do list. Unless you know for sure that hose has been replaced, it probably is original and due to fail at any time.
Chain Plate Inspection
I have a 1976 O'Day 25. I had read, in the book This Old Boat by Don Casey, that on boats older than 20 years, the chainplates should be removed to inspect the bulkheads. I did like you instead, I looked them over and decided "they look fine". What I didn't realize is that the teak veneer looked fine, but the wood underneath was rotted. I have learned a lesson, and will anually (as recommended) REMOVE the chainplates and inspect the wood. It's all brand new now, as well as a ton of other projects I did after the chainplates pulled loose from the rotted bulkhead.
I have a 1976 O'Day 25. I had read, in the book This Old Boat by Don Casey, that on boats older than 20 years, the chainplates should be removed to inspect the bulkheads. I did like you instead, I looked them over and decided "they look fine". What I didn't realize is that the teak veneer looked fine, but the wood underneath was rotted. I have learned a lesson, and will anually (as recommended) REMOVE the chainplates and inspect the wood. It's all brand new now, as well as a ton of other projects I did after the chainplates pulled loose from the rotted bulkhead.
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