I do not like the stern position of the main sail sheet rigging. Can't find out how to get it in front of me or at least the tiller. I tried rigging from where it is up to about 20 " forward on boom and line hanging down for me to work with (which falls in front of the tiller for ease of handling) and like it. Attached with a combination block and cam clete to boom. I am told that is not a wise thing to do. Any better ideas? I am only couple years into sailing and do not want to set up to fail. thx
O'Day 222 traveler
- Thread starter redmackc
- Start date
Just a note, you ask about a 222 traveler, but your profile says you have an O'day 22. 2 different boats...
That being said, there are probably 2 options for putting a traveler an O'day 222. One option is to change it to mid-boom sheeting, and build a raised traveler bridge somewhere across the seats aft of the bridge deck. Putting a traveler on the bridge deck itself might not offer enough travel to center the boom, or to dump for a puff. Here is a picture of Joe Alvez's raised teak traveler bridge on his 222 Trinkka:
My second thought is to keep the end boom sheeting, and to install a raised traveler assembly on the aft coaming. This would be desirable because the boom tubing section is used keeping end boom sheeting in mind, rather than the different stresses of mid boom sheeting. That being said, Joe sailed his for many years without trouble. Also, keeping end boom sheeting allows for more space in the cockpit. Given that the 222 was designed as a cruising boat, end boom sheeting was likely selected to allow for the greatest cockpit area. The drawback to this plan is that the traveler bridge has to be tall enough to allow for tiller clearance, and this would make it more difficult to climb over using the swim ladder. I for one swim off the boat frequently...
That being said, there are probably 2 options for putting a traveler an O'day 222. One option is to change it to mid-boom sheeting, and build a raised traveler bridge somewhere across the seats aft of the bridge deck. Putting a traveler on the bridge deck itself might not offer enough travel to center the boom, or to dump for a puff. Here is a picture of Joe Alvez's raised teak traveler bridge on his 222 Trinkka:
My second thought is to keep the end boom sheeting, and to install a raised traveler assembly on the aft coaming. This would be desirable because the boom tubing section is used keeping end boom sheeting in mind, rather than the different stresses of mid boom sheeting. That being said, Joe sailed his for many years without trouble. Also, keeping end boom sheeting allows for more space in the cockpit. Given that the 222 was designed as a cruising boat, end boom sheeting was likely selected to allow for the greatest cockpit area. The drawback to this plan is that the traveler bridge has to be tall enough to allow for tiller clearance, and this would make it more difficult to climb over using the swim ladder. I for one swim off the boat frequently...
Thanks Brian and another question please. Seems like my working jib sheets would interfere with this setup at the front of cockpit since the winches are up on top of cabin either side of companionway.Just a note, you ask about a 222 traveler, but your profile says you have an O'day 22. 2 different boats...
That being said, there are probably 2 options for putting a traveler an O'day 222. One option is to change it to mid-boom sheeting, and build a raised traveler bridge somewhere across the seats aft of the bridge deck. Putting a traveler on the bridge deck itself might not offer enough travel to center the boom, or to dump for a puff. Here is a picture of Joe Alvez's raised teak traveler bridge on his 222 Trinkka:
My second thought is to keep the end boom sheeting, and to install a raised traveler assembly on the aft coaming. This would be desirable because the boom tubing section is used keeping end boom sheeting in mind, rather than the different stresses of mid boom sheeting. That being said, Joe sailed his for many years without trouble. Also, keeping end boom sheeting allows for more space in the cockpit. Given that the 222 was designed as a cruising boat, end boom sheeting was likely selected to allow for the greatest cockpit area. The drawback to this plan is that the traveler bridge has to be tall enough to allow for tiller clearance, and this would make it more difficult to climb over using the swim ladder. I for one swim off the boat frequently...
Also, what is the downfall of doing it as I have done it since it feels comfortable and works well in light weather for sure but have not been in heavy wind yet. Thanks if you could help with one more answer.
Could you take a picture of the setup that you created? or maybe a sketch? It sounds like a setup that I have seen before on other boats, rigged that way from the factory.
What, rigging it like a Sunfish - where the sheet comes up to a block at the end of the boom, then forward, to a block, and then down to the cockpit? I guess you could. All that does is lead the sheet forward, again where you won't have as much leverage due to a shorter lever arm of boom, and doesn't give you any traveller.
A traveller exists so that you can use the mainsheet to control leech tension, and thus mainsail twist, and use the traveller to control angle of attack. It also allows you to bring the traveller to windward and get the boom on the centerline for lighter wind beating.
I do know that the Hunter 18.5 did mid-boom sheeting, right down to a swivel jammer on the cockpit sole. Seems like it would get all kinds of in the way of cockpit use. I have heard reservations in reviews of the 18.5, but they said in the end it didn't seem to matter much. Leading the mainsheet all the way down to the cockpit sole would allow the sheet to be longer to the boom, and thus fall off to leeward more than a shorter length of sheet.
Oh, wait, look at that picture. Sure, the mainsheet goes right down to the cockpit floor, but it's still end boom sheeting...
My old GP14 used a split tail mainsheet, fixed at the aft corners. This allows the boom to be pulled from windward when sheeted hard, but still doesn't really pull it to windward. With a rig like this (in a racing dinghy, of course) leech tension is controlled by a very powerful vang that also acts as a mast ram to induce bend in the mast and depower the main.
A traveller exists so that you can use the mainsheet to control leech tension, and thus mainsail twist, and use the traveller to control angle of attack. It also allows you to bring the traveller to windward and get the boom on the centerline for lighter wind beating.
I do know that the Hunter 18.5 did mid-boom sheeting, right down to a swivel jammer on the cockpit sole. Seems like it would get all kinds of in the way of cockpit use. I have heard reservations in reviews of the 18.5, but they said in the end it didn't seem to matter much. Leading the mainsheet all the way down to the cockpit sole would allow the sheet to be longer to the boom, and thus fall off to leeward more than a shorter length of sheet.
Oh, wait, look at that picture. Sure, the mainsheet goes right down to the cockpit floor, but it's still end boom sheeting...
My old GP14 used a split tail mainsheet, fixed at the aft corners. This allows the boom to be pulled from windward when sheeted hard, but still doesn't really pull it to windward. With a rig like this (in a racing dinghy, of course) leech tension is controlled by a very powerful vang that also acts as a mast ram to induce bend in the mast and depower the main.
I mounted my traveler very closely to "Joes". No real problems with the jib winches on the cabin and after you step over it a few times you"ll no longer notice it.. I mocked up a stearn, cabin top, and Joes and went with the Joes. The stearn mount needed to be ttoo high and didn't like the cabin top.
You'll find lots of main sail control that is quick and easy when you have a traveler. Go with one that you can adjust by pulling lines rather than the "pin" at the car. I think its the singular improvement you can make on a 222 to better your sailing.
adjustable back stay for a 222
Next winter deck work and replace rigging on my 222. I'm looking for galv. wire (forestay will be SS) and suggestions. Split back stay, adjustable back stay, what to use to improve chain plates???
Next winter deck work and replace rigging on my 222. I'm looking for galv. wire (forestay will be SS) and suggestions. Split back stay, adjustable back stay, what to use to improve chain plates???
I wouldn't use galvanized wire for standing rigging. Even on fresh water, why go with the ugly? SS 1x19 wire isn't that expensive, and you can get it directly from Rudy at D&R premade with fittings swaged and everything.
Considering that there is only one chainplate at the stern, and if you're getting rid of end boom sheeting to rig a mid boom traveler, I'd probably keep the backstay the same length, and rig a 4:1 purchase with cam cleat right where the old strop and triangle plate used to be. My friend's Beneteau 235 is like that. I know some who want to put an extra length of line between chainplate and backstay incase the purchase line breaks, but I think if you used some Dyneema cored polyester covered line, there's very little risk of breakage. Figure that 3/16" line such as Endura Braid from New England Ropes has a "tensile strength" of 2250 pounds, and the breaking strength of SS 1x19 1/8" wire is only 1780 pounds...
I think it would be way too much trouble to install 2 new chainplates in order to rig a split backstay with a backstay adjuster. Just sayin'...
Considering that there is only one chainplate at the stern, and if you're getting rid of end boom sheeting to rig a mid boom traveler, I'd probably keep the backstay the same length, and rig a 4:1 purchase with cam cleat right where the old strop and triangle plate used to be. My friend's Beneteau 235 is like that. I know some who want to put an extra length of line between chainplate and backstay incase the purchase line breaks, but I think if you used some Dyneema cored polyester covered line, there's very little risk of breakage. Figure that 3/16" line such as Endura Braid from New England Ropes has a "tensile strength" of 2250 pounds, and the breaking strength of SS 1x19 1/8" wire is only 1780 pounds...
I think it would be way too much trouble to install 2 new chainplates in order to rig a split backstay with a backstay adjuster. Just sayin'...
Brian, read what Brion Toss has to say about wire rigging. You'll enjoy his books as well I also want to eye splice and get away from machine crimps or bulky Stay Locks. I have had trouble splicing SS wire.
Will the head sail need to be replaced to take advantage of bending your mast. My head sail is an original but has been recut this year and the material is still in good shape.
About adjustable backstays: On a masthead rig, the primary function is to tighten the luff of the jib, for less luff sag to leeward. Makes pointing better and depowers by reducing the camber induced by the sagging shape.
On a fractional rig, it will tighten the jib luff a bit, and limit sag to leeward, but it also bends the mast. Note that the luff of the mainsail is not cut straight. It's cut with some convex curvature, so that when you pull the luff tight, the curvature being pulled straight creates camber in the sail, which creates the lift in the sail.
So, if you bend the mast forward, so that it curves forward, the luff of the main is then allowed to follow (to an extent) the convex shape of the cut. As the sail fills its cut curvature, it reduces the amount of camber, thus depowering the sail. this also makes the sail faster in heavier winds.
So, to answer your question, I don't expect that using a backstay to bend the mast on a fractional rig would have negative implications for a re-cut jib. Recutting a sail is an attempt to correct for aging and stretching, and to get it closer to the original cut shape. Of course, it is not possible to correct completely for worn and baggy sails.
On a fractional rig, it will tighten the jib luff a bit, and limit sag to leeward, but it also bends the mast. Note that the luff of the mainsail is not cut straight. It's cut with some convex curvature, so that when you pull the luff tight, the curvature being pulled straight creates camber in the sail, which creates the lift in the sail.
So, if you bend the mast forward, so that it curves forward, the luff of the main is then allowed to follow (to an extent) the convex shape of the cut. As the sail fills its cut curvature, it reduces the amount of camber, thus depowering the sail. this also makes the sail faster in heavier winds.
So, to answer your question, I don't expect that using a backstay to bend the mast on a fractional rig would have negative implications for a re-cut jib. Recutting a sail is an attempt to correct for aging and stretching, and to get it closer to the original cut shape. Of course, it is not possible to correct completely for worn and baggy sails.