O'Day 222: Mast

[estopa]

I also have some mast fixes as well. Mainly the sheaves that the main sheet halyard goes to. Both top and bottom are broken.

The bottom one is basically gone:

The top one is cracked.

I talked to Rudy from D&R and he indicated that he had no more left but to contact Rig-Rite for the proper sized sheave. Does anyone know what size we have for the Z-spar masts?

http://www.rigrite.com/spars/Zspar/Z-Sheaves.html

 

[Joe11688]

Is that top picture the cast Aluminum mast tabernacle George? If it is, it's a lot different than what I had on my mast years ago before I converted it to a stainless steel hinged Tabernacle. I only had one sheave on the old tabernacle and that was used for the Jib Halyard. I hated that set up with a passion.

 

[estopa]

Yes looks like cast aluminum. And the sheaves were plastic. I plan on replacing with aluminum ones I hope for greater durability.

I plan on heading down to the boat tomorrow to measure.

Get this the CDI furler was on a wrong headstay. Only after talking to rudy about my setup we realized I still had the old T fitting Headstay. Not the tang and toggle setup that was supposed to be modified for. I will use your setup for reference while Rudy sends me the correct rigging. Oh and I opted to replacing all standing rigging as I needed to replace at least 75% of it.

 

[Joe11688]

George,
Rudy said to send him the sheave or sheaves and he'll match it up and send you the one you need. Just remind him that you want metal and not Nylon.
As for the forestay; He has a Dwyer tang like mine that he will send you and you'll probably need to make up a new forestay with regular swaged on toggle fittings and toggle straps on both ends.
You were lucky George. "T" Ball fittings in mast slots don't work with roller furlers.
I would stick with 1/8" stay wires and don't go with anything larger. Your chainplates won't handle larger wires. I found that out the hard way myself after a rigger at Rig-Rite talked me into 5/32" lower stays. I think that he should have known better because I sure didn't at the time.

 

[estopa]

I didn't get time to measure the sheaves today because I spent the morning removing the centerboard. I updated my other thread with the details.

Wow that's great that Rudy may help me out with the Sheaves. I might have to send him back the wedges and pin for the centerboard as they don't seem to be the right size.

As for the rigging. I ordered a complete Standing Rigging w/Turnbuckles from Rudy. Looks to be 1/8" size. Note the Headstay with the 2 toggles on the left.

 

[Joe11688]

That's great George. You're going to need the Dwyer mast tang. When you get ready to mount the tang to your mast, you may just want to duct tape it to the mast temporarily with the fore stay connected, along with the other stays of course. Use your Jib halyard to hold your mast up after you raise it. This will give you a chance to check and make sure that everything fits good especially your fore stay. When you think that it's right, you can take the mast down and drill the holes for the tang. This is what I had to do to my mast. Actually, I raised my mast up a second time for a dry run. Only this time I marked the mast where the tang was to go and removed the tape. The tang has six holes in it so I drilled and tapped a hole in the mast and installed one machine screw in the center of the tang. This gave me adjustment either way just in case I needed to move the tang up or down but after raising the mast again and connecting the fore stay, I could see that the stay looked like it was in the right place. After that I drilled all the holes and brought my boat down to Rudy and had him rivet the tang to my mast with his Pneumatic rivet gun.
I had added an anchor roller to my bow before I bought my CDI Roller Furler off Rudy, so I figured that it would be wise to add an extension tang to my bow plate to raise the furler drum up about 5" so it wouldn't interfere with my anchor handling. Of course, my Gennie had to be reworked to fit the shorter stay, but it was worth it.

 

[estopa]

When you get ready to mount the tang to your mast, you may just want to duct tape it to the mast temporarily with the fore stay connected, along with the other stays of course. Use your Jib halyard to hold your mast up after you raise it. This will give you a chance to check and make sure that everything fits good especially your fore stay. When you think that it's right, you can take the mast down and drill the holes for the tang.

Thanks Joe, yes Rudy included a Dywer tang with the rivots. Good call on getting a dry fit with the duck tape before going ahead and just rivoting to the existing t-hole. I'll have to do that for sure since I am replacing all the rigging in the spring.

Jim at Neil Pryde has offered to help me set up the rigging and sail so she will be sailing the right way

Joe, since we are talking about masts and rigging here. Can you tell me how your topping lift is shackled to the z-spar boom? Mine just has one d-shape shackle to the vinyl coated wire to the boom.

 

[Joe11688]

Thanks Joe, yes Rudy included a Dywer tang with the rivots. Good call on getting a dry fit with the duck tape before going ahead and just rivoting to the existing t-hole. I'll have to do that for sure since I am replacing all the rigging in the spring.

Jim at Neil Pryde has offered to help me set up the rigging and sail so she will be sailing the right way

Joe, since we are talking about masts and rigging here. Can you tell me how your topping lift is shackled to the z-spar boom? Mine just has one d-shape shackle to the vinyl coated wire to the boom.

All you need to do George is connect a single sheave to that small shackle. If your sheave has it's own shackle, just take the shackle off the swaged marine eye fitting on your topping lift and connect your sheave to it. Then you'll want to run that Starboard 1/4" control line that exits out of the back your boom, through the sheave and connect it to the small thin cast Aluminum strap at the end of the boom with a small stainless steel shackle.
When I made up my new boom control lines, I spliced an eye on the end of my outhaul and my topping lift lines that exit the back of my boom. I didn't bother doing that to the Port side reefing line because a stopper knot at the bail under the boom would suffice for that. The Z-Spar company should have provided a bail at the end of the boom for that topping lift shackle but they didn't. A picture is worth a thousand words I guess.

George, some day when you get a few extra bucks saved up you'll want to change your backstay over and get rid of that triangular plate on your backstay and install a Handy-Lock or a lever device similar like what is pictured in the last picture. You would need to mount a traveler near your companionway hatch and relocate your mainsheet attachment under your boom. The Handy-Lock or a similar type lever device would allow you to throw enough slack into your forestay to disconnect your furler. You wouldn't need to touch your other stays. The open turnbuckle would need to be kept on the backstay above the this device so that you can take your backstay off your mast at the mast head. The backstay enters a hole in the mast cap. It's something to think about down the road as you do your yearly sailboat modifications.
Joe

 

[estopa]

Removed the Original Plastic Sheaves and went to Rig Rite for the sizing. Here you go for reference. http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z-Sheaves.html

Upper Masthead Sheave:
Outside Diameter Width Inside Diameter
35mm (1 3/8") 15mm (<5/8") 8mm (>5/16")
Plastic Sheave - Z-1617
Aluminum Sheave - Z-1246A

Lower Mastfoot Sheave:
Outside Diameter Width Inside Diameter
28mm (1 1/8") 9mm (<3/8") 6mm
Plastic Sheave - Z-1614
Aluminum Sheave - Z-1611A

 

[srojoetoo]

George & Joe

What is the problem with the T-ball fitting on the head stay and roller furling?

Mine seems to be working OK.

TIA

tom c

 

[estopa]

You can probably do a search for "Trinkka tang" and find out what happened to Joe. Or in my experience the previous owner had not updated the head stay when he put a furler. I had three or four strands of wire broken off my Head stay where it fits into the T-ball at the mast. The remedy for this was to modify the mast to accept this Dwyer Tang to give it some side to side play. Glad it didn't break on me when I went out to the rOnDAYvous.


UPDATED 11/19/2010 with Pictures to show wear on the head stay.

3 Strands were already severed from the t-ball fitting.

 

[estopa]

YIKES!!!! Holy Expensive Batman!!!

Upper Masthead Sheave:
Aluminum Sheave - Z-1246A - $29

Lower Mastfoot Sheave:
Aluminum Sheave - Z-1611A - $32

Hope these last a lot longer than the plastic ones!

 

[Joe11688]

George & Joe

What is the problem with the T-ball fitting on the head stay and roller furling?

Mine seems to be working OK.

TIA

tom c

Tom,
If you have a CDI Roller Reefing Furler or another brand that is similar, the "T" will break off at the mast due to the constant side to side movement of the stay.
We're not talking about the Schaeffer Furler that came with your O'Day 222 that is mounted on your Jib Halyard.
In the CDI owner's manual they state specifically that the forestay should have a toggle fitting at both ends. Also, the CDI furlers have their own halyard built into the Vinyl luff and your Jib Halyard is not used. So if your "T"ball fitting breaks, your mast is sure to come down toward the stern pretty fast.

 

[estopa]

The sheaves from Rig Rite came in today! They look like a perfect match and hope that they will last a long time compared to the plastic ones.

 

[srojoetoo]

Tom,
If you have a CDI Roller Reefing Furler or another brand that is similar, the "T" will break off at the mast due to the constant side to side movement of the stay.
We're not talking about the Schaeffer Furler that came with your O'Day 222 that is mounted on your Jib Halyard.
In the CDI owner's manual they state specifically that the forestay should have a toggle fitting at both ends. Also, the CDI furlers have their own halyard built into the Vinyl luff and your Jib Halyard is not used. So if your "T"ball fitting breaks, your mast is sure to come down toward the stern pretty fast.

THNX guys

I got a CDI and no toggle at either end.

I did have a close look at the fitting when I demasted last. Seemed OK, but can see how over time it could be a problem.

George. In your pics (I wish I could get my camera to take such good pics), the frays in the cable must have taken some time to develop?

Joe, will have a look at your pics in the archives. Looks like a winter planning\purchasing project. Mght even end up with an eisier to connect furler.

tom c

 

[estopa]

George. In your pics (I wish I could get my camera to take such good pics), the frays in the cable must have taken some time to develop?

Tom would you believe me if I told you I took all these pics with my mobile phone. Blackberry Bold to be exact. It does take a decent picture except those closeups its a bit blurry. I plan on dry fitting some of the mast parts today if I get a moment after my turkey meal settles.

 

[Joe11688]

THNX guys

I got a CDI and no toggle at either end.

I did have a close look at the fitting when I demasted last. Seemed OK, but can see how over time it could be a problem.

George. In your pics (I wish I could get my camera to take such good pics), the frays in the cable must have taken some time to develop?

Joe, will have a look at your pics in the archives. Looks like a winter planning\purchasing project. Mght even end up with an eisier to connect furler.

tom c

Tom,
This is something that I "Mickey Moused" for a quick disconnect of my furler when enroute to the club ramp or heading home at the end of the season. I ran the idea by Rudy at his D&R store. In fact, he made up the stay for me using my own stay. I was able to use it because of the 5" tang that I added to my bow plate for anchor handling clearance with my bow roller. This quick disconnect is an idea that my friend Wayne had on his Seaward 22 and I stole it off him along with his Gin Pole idea which he stole off MacGregor. For the mast pin, Wayne uses a bolt/nut Cotter ring with washers, and I use a rigging pin, washers, and Cotter ring. Rudy installed a 5/16" Marine eye fitting on my stay for the rigging pin which acts as a toggle in the toggle strap connected to the Dwyer mast tang. Rudy told me that the mast tang can also be bent out away from the mast in order to provide enough clearance to remove the cotter pin from rigging pin on the tang, but I opted for this Mickey Mouse set up instead.
Joe

 

[estopa]

Went to defender marine today for their annual spring sale. Bought some nice toys. One of them is a Loos Gauge that will help me set the tension on the new standing rigging I bought last fall.

2 questions.

1) What rake should I sent the Mast with a CDI furler on the forestay. I believe with this setup I only adjust the backstay. But to do this I need to figure out how much rake is needed then set the forestay length. I understand there is pluses being little to no rake for downwind then more rake for upwind. What's a happy medium (neutral) for a fractional like a 222? I plan on using a pendulum set from the top of mast to measure the distance from Mast to the bottom of the pendulum like so:

2) Should I just adjust tension for what Loos recommends on their gauge guide for 1/8" rigging? Not sure if there is some optimal tension strength someone would like to share with a 222?

 

[RichBone]

I would tune the rig for upwind sailing and forget about the downwind.

Rich

 

[Joe11688]

I think that you're going to need to experiment with that George. You know that pulling the mast aft causes weather helm and you want the boat to have some weather helm without being too excessive.