O'Day 222 Mainsheet modification

[capecodvideo]

I've owned many O'Day boats, from the classic daysailor, the 192, 20, 222, and 27. Currently I'm sailing the 222. The mainsheet arrangement is totally unsatisfactory. Mounted on the triangle plate attached to the back stay causes unnecessary strain and twisting on the backstay cable.
I'm looking for modification suggestions. I was thinking a short traveler mounted on the companionway step much like I've had on other boats. Keeping it above the centerline seems to make so much more sense.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[treeman]

Sorry. I can't help ya - this is my first year with a 222. You might be able to help me. I believe my boat has the stock fiddleblock(?) attached to the triangle plate. My main sheet line is showing some wear and I would like to replace. It looks like I need to replace the entire fiddleblock or take my aim at drilling out some rivots. Does that make sense?

 

[HukilauMike]

I've owned many O'Day boats, from the classic daysailor, the 192, 20, 222, and 27. Currently I'm sailing the 222. The mainsheet arrangement is totally unsatisfactory. Mounted on the triangle plate attached to the back stay causes unnecessary strain and twisting on the backstay cable.
I'm looking for modification suggestions. I was thinking a short traveler mounted on the companionway step much like I've had on other boats. Keeping it above the centerline seems to make so much more sense.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Check out this thread for your answer:

http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=141140

You won't find a better Oday 22 (and by extension, 222) mentor than Fuzzy Faced Joe of the Trinka.

 

[HukilauMike]

Sorry. I can't help ya - this is my first year with a 222. You might be able to help me. I believe my boat has the stock fiddleblock(?) attached to the triangle plate. My main sheet line is showing some wear and I would like to replace. It looks like I need to replace the entire fiddleblock or take my aim at drilling out some rivots. Does that make sense?

Tree: It sounds like you have the same mainsheet set up as me. I think you are correct about your options. Unless you can splice an eye into a new sheet after you rove it into the blocks, I think you are looking at replacing the fiddle or drilling out the rivets.

 

[Joe11688]

I've owned many O'Day boats, from the classic daysailor, the 192, 20, 222, and 27. Currently I'm sailing the 222. The mainsheet arrangement is totally unsatisfactory. Mounted on the triangle plate attached to the back stay causes unnecessary strain and twisting on the backstay cable.
I'm looking for modification suggestions. I was thinking a short traveler mounted on the companionway step much like I've had on other boats. Keeping it above the centerline seems to make so much more sense.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I don't blame you for not liking that end of boom attachment to the triangular plate on the backstay. Some guys on the forum have gotten used to it and they like it so I'm not going to knock it. Myself, I hated it and decided to do something about it so I bought a traveler and mounted it on a Teak board in front of the companionway. Is it a pain in the butt to step over? Yes it is but I wouldn't have it any other way.
My only regret was buying that Nico Fico traveler. I should have bought the Harken instead. In fact, I just bought a used Harken off a guy on this forum last month and I love it. He shipped it up to me from his home in Virginia. It came off his O'Day 23.
So if you do spring for a traveler, buy a Harken or Garhaurer with the ropes and sheaves.

When I first mounted my old traveler, I needed to mount it on something that would conform to the seats and I used three pieces of Teak to do that. I mocked up a design out of cheap pine first, just to see how it was going to look. Teak is too expensive it experiment as you may know. I made up two mounts using patterns that I had scribed to copy the curves on the seats. The mounts are flat on the top to accept the 60" Teak board in which the track was to be attached to with 1/4"X3" bolts and nuts. I used four long 5/16" bolts, two on each side, to mount the Traveler to the seats on both sides with plywood back up plates in the cabin. The bolt heads; I carefully countersunk into the Teak using a miniature chisel set so that the track lays flat on the Teak over these bolts. Any of the smaller bolts and nuts that interfered with the placement of these three pieces of Teak, I countersunk in order to get these boards to fit snug without gaps. I just did what I had to do as the situation dictated, and it came out satisfactory.
You may want to use something other than Teak. I've been using Trex on my boat lately. I replaced a 1" Teak board under my mast tabernacle with Trex. I've also been using PVC Foam Board. I built an extrusion for my mast out this stuff and I like it. It can be glued with PVC cement. There is no limit to what can be done on a boat with these materials.

As for the triangular plate; I had it removed from my backstay years ago by the owner of Rig-Rite in Warwick RI. He made the suggestion of installing a used Johnson Handy-Lock that he had laying around in the shop and moving the open turnbuck up over it on the back stay. This worked out great for me as I was doing a lot of trailering with this boat every week at my favorite ramps.
The Handy Lock allows me to throw slack into the forestay in order to remove it to let the mast down. The other stays are left untouched.
The open turnbuckle allows me to remove the backstay through the hole in the mast head each fall when I put my boat up for the season.

Today I no longer trailer my boat save going to and from the YC on the Taunton River. In fact, I just brought my boat home last Sunday to do some work on it at the house. Hopefully I'll get my work finished and bring it back.

I'm still using a press button quick pin on my forestay which has a CDI Roller Furler on it.
As for that triangular plate that I had removed from my back stay? I had my son weld it to the end of a Gin Pole that he made up for me several years ago. "Waste not want not"- is what I always say.

 

[bear62041]

Hey Joe, what is the dimension of the teak that bridges across the bridge deck ?? Height and width ? And what is the maximum height of the teak at the seat area ? I'd like to do what you did, and wondering what size material I need. I've never used a traveler, but I think I want to now, and also I want the clearance to be able to install a bimini, just learned that for some reason I'm all of a sudden very sun sensitive. Thanks, and you have a great installation.

 

[Indysailor]

If I were sailing alone or just my wife and I most of the time, I would add a traveler like Joe's. But I know why O'Day had that mainsheet arrangement, to maximize the space for people in the cockpit and since we usually sail with a handful of kids going in and out of the cabin, a traveler across the bridge deck would be a shin killer. If that's not an issue for you, then go for it. Having the mainsheet up high like that is awkward and it can be a pain in the rear end, but in my opinion it is not as bad as portrayed in the original post. There is some twist in the backstay, but to my knowledge no one here has ever mentioned any failure related to it.

 

[Joe11688]

Hey Joe, what is the dimension of the teak that bridges across the bridge deck ?? Height and width ? And what is the maximum height of the teak at the seat area ? I'd like to do what you did, and wondering what size material I need. I've never used a traveler, but I think I want to now, and also I want the clearance to be able to install a bimini, just learned that for some reason I'm all of a sudden very sun sensitive. Thanks, and you have a great installation.

You're in luck. The boat is sitting on the trailer next to my house now. I need to do some work on it this week. I'll see what I can do as far as getting you some dimensions on my Teak support.

Indysailor,
You bring up a good point. This traveler set-up isn't for everyone. Since my wife "swallowed the anchor" many years ago, I sail alone with my dog a good percentage of the time.
She'll sail with me only if the grandkids want to go sailing for the day, otherwise she's content to stay home and do her thing.
Like everything else, the traveler in front of the companionway is a trade off. It has it's advantages and disadvantages.

If you carry a lot of guests on board, you may as well be comfortable in the cockpit. You may not go as fast because of the weight of your passengers, but who cares? You're not in a race. You're out on the water to enjoy yourselves.

I made up a boom break this year for my boat but I got to tell you,-- that thing is like an obstacal course when it's set up and worse than stepping over the traveler I think.
I don't plan on leaving it set up all the time as a friend of mine does on his sloop.

What I did was mark the center of the braid line and leave the Super Eight assending device attached to it with a quick shackle on it. I coiled up the double line like any single line I have on board, and I stow it in the lazarette. When I want to use the break on long runs across the bay on my trips, I'll just undo the line and attach the Super Eight to a shackle under the boom and run the line through the single sheaves on both sides of the boat.

 

[Gaf]

Good morning Y'all. I sold Joe the Harken traveler that he mentioned (Hi Joe). I had the same set up on my 23 O'Day for several years. I originally used a piece of ash as the support beam but got tired of refinishing it. I purchased some teak and manufactured a new support beam which I never before parting with my boat, and is still sitting in my workshop. It's dimensions are 59"L x 1 7/8thick x 3 3/16w, and is tapered to accomodate the seats. As I never installed it on my boat, it is not drilled. I could be persuaded to part with it. If anyone is interested I will include some pics. Like Joe, my wife decided that swimming was staying alive in the water, and she was not into this heeled over stuff, so I single handed most of the time. I really didn't find the travelers location to be a real hardship, and it's pro's more that outwayed it's con's.

 

[Gaf]

Here are pics of the traveler support beam, if it helps.

Good morning Y'all. I sold Joe the Harken traveler that he mentioned (Hi Joe). I had the same set up on my 23 O'Day for several years. I originally used a piece of ash as the support beam but got tired of refinishing it. I purchased some teak and manufactured a new support beam which I never before parting with my boat, and is still sitting in my workshop. It's dimensions are 59"L x 1 7/8thick x 3 3/16w, and is tapered to accomodate the seats. As I never installed it on my boat, it is not drilled. I could be persuaded to part with it. If anyone is interested I will include some pics. Like Joe, my wife decided that swimming was staying alive in the water, and she was not into this heeled over stuff, so I single handed most of the time. I really didn't find the travelers location to be a real hardship, and it's pro's more that outwayed it's con's.

 

[bear62041]

Gaf, I would be interested in your support beam. Please contact me at twoelks@iowatelecom.net and let me know the details, what you are asking for it, etc., etc.. Thank you. Richard Brees

 

[Joe11688]

Hi George!

Bear,
You may be able to use George's support beam in conjuction with the two Teak supports similar to what I made for my boat, that can fit the contour of the seats on your 222.
I took some measurements of my support beam and the two support pieces, but I need to draw out a better sketch than what I have right now so that you can comprehend it. I'll try to get that to you as soon as possible.
Joe

 

[Joe11688]

Hey Joe, what is the dimension of the teak that bridges across the bridge deck ?? Height and width ? And what is the maximum height of the teak at the seat area ? I'd like to do what you did, and wondering what size material I need. I've never used a traveler, but I think I want to now, and also I want the clearance to be able to install a bimini, just learned that for some reason I'm all of a sudden very sun sensitive. Thanks, and you have a great installation.

Hi Bear,
Here's a sketch of my traveler base. My beam is probably higher than it needs to be and you may be better off using the one George made up.
As it is, the distance from the top of my step to the top on my track is about 8 1/2" high. It probably could be lower.

As I mentioned previously, I used 5/16" hex head bolts to anchor the beam a to the boat and I carefully chiseled out the wood so that the bolt heads fit perfectly below the surface of the beam. The track lays on top of the beam to lock in the bolt heads which shouldn't turn when you start cranking on the nuts with the washers and backup plates in place.

I would mock up something in a cheap wood to see how it's going to come. Then go for the finished product in Teak or whatever you have in mind.
Joe

 

[Gaf]

Hi Joe and Bear. I was just looking at your pic's Joe and it looks like you cockpit seating is quite different than my 23', as it has a curve molded in. The 23' was angled but straight...humm does that make sense? Bear, I sent you an email Re my beam, but I see that it is quite different, still you might be able to adapt it. See what you think.

 

[bear62041]

Gaf and Joe: Gaf I got yor e-mail and I responded back. Joe, I've printed off your sketch and pics, thank you so much. I'm going to make up a cardboard cut-out to the seat contour, and then think some more as to whether I want to go with a traveler. Turns out my 222 cockpit is too short for a bimini too, even the smaller ones, and even if I move the mainsheet forward for a traveler. So, I'm considering if it is worthwhile just for cruising. Thanks so much for both your help on this, tho.

 

[Joe11688]

bear,
I'd also like to have a Bimini Top on my boat but I think it would interfere with trolling for Stripers and Blue Fish. However, because of the fact that I have a full stern rail with a Mickey Mouse hula hoop on it for my mast crutch, I was able to come up with what I call my "poor sailor's Bimini Top." Now don't laugh.

My apologies for Penelope. She loves to moon the camera.

 

[capecodvideo]

If I were sailing alone or just my wife and I most of the time, I would add a traveler like Joe's. But I know why O'Day had that mainsheet arrangement, to maximize the space for people in the cockpit and since we usually sail with a handful of kids going in and out of the cabin, a traveler across the bridge deck would be a shin killer. If that's not an issue for you, then go for it. Having the mainsheet up high like that is awkward and it can be a pain in the rear end, but in my opinion it is not as bad as portrayed in the original post. There is some twist in the backstay, but to my knowledge no one here has ever mentioned any failure related to it.

I have had a backstay go on me, 4 miles out of Cotuit. I of course can't say with certainty that the twisting and pulling on the backstay with the original setup was the cause but common sense forces me to take a hard look at this as a contributing factor.
The gorgeous modifications that some of you have come up with are fantastic. The teak rail for the traveler on the companionway seat is great. I have to agree though with others who have commented that this particular modification would certainly be in the way with more than two people aboard.
Now I'm thinking that a raised stern rail, inside the back stay and with enough clearance for the tiller might be preferable. Only problem with that is decreased access to your motor.

 

[Gaf]

I have had a backstay go on me, 4 miles out of Cotuit. I of course can't say with certainty that the twisting and pulling on the backstay with the original setup was the cause but common sense forces me to take a hard look at this as a contributing factor.
The gorgeous modifications that some of you have come up with are fantastic. The teak rail for the traveler on the companionway seat is great. I have to agree though with others who have commented that this particular modification would certainly be in the way with more than two people aboard.
Now I'm thinking that a raised stern rail, inside the back stay and with enough clearance for the tiller might be preferable. Only problem with that is decreased access to your motor.

Hi Cape Cod Video (sorry I couldn't find your name), I also thought of mounting the traveler on the stern on my 23' O'Day. I was unable to come up with a suitable work around that would not restrict my ability to lift up my tiller handle if I had to. I finally reached that same conclusion that Joe did and mounted it about 18" aft of the companionway. It's very true that there was a steep learing curve to having an obstruction where previously there wasn't one, and I did get to see Jupiter align with Mar's once or twice, but when it was all said and done, I thought the pro's more than outwayed the con's.

 

[HukilauMike]

Hi Cape Cod Video (sorry I couldn't find your name), I also thought of mounting the traveler on the stern on my 23' O'Day. I was unable to come up with a suitable work around that would not restrict my ability to lift up my tiller handle if I had to. I finally reached that same conclusion that Joe did and mounted it about 18" aft of the companionway. It's very true that there was a steep learing curve to having an obstruction where previously there wasn't one, and I did get to see Jupiter align with Mar's once or twice, but when it was all said and done, I thought the pro's more than outwayed the con's.

I looked at both of those options, and didn't like either for the same reasons you two articulate. I came up with mounting the traveler on top of the stern pushpit, but that would have required beefing up the attachment of the pushpit to the hull. Given the lack of access to half of the mounting sites, I just couldn't bring myself to do it.