Oday 22 Bildge Pump

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Sep 14, 2009
2
Oday 22 Oyster Bay
Hi all: Had my oday 22 for many years now and had always manually pumped the bildge through the cabin floor. It's time for an electric Bildge. Question is - where do I put it? I have a through hull via the sink on the port side that I plan to run it out. Thanks in advance.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Hi all: Had my oday 22 for many years now and had always manually pumped the bildge through the cabin floor. It's time for an electric Bildge. Question is - where do I put it? I have a through hull via the sink on the port side that I plan to run it out. Thanks in advance.
I have a manual bilge pump that can be operated from inside the cockpit via a detachable handle. I've had it for years and never had to use it to this day on my O'Day 222. With that said, you shouldn't be getting any water in your boat at all. I would remove the gunwale moldings and re-caulk under them. This is just one likely place where water may be coming in after a rain. I'm sure that if you look hard enough, you may find another one if one exists after you've caulked under the gunwale. These boats shouldn't leak at all. If water is getting in around the chain plates, it's best that you stop it now and avoid having to replace your main bulkhead in the cabin later. When I installed my bilge pump, I found the lowest central point on my boat which is the sole plate in my cabin and ran a hose to it with the screen fitting. Then I popped a hole through my transom in between my swim ladder for the through hull fitting of the pump's exhaust hose. We have different model boats, so you're going to have to find the best place to install intake hose on your boat. I wouldn't use the sink hose myself.
 

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Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Great point and advice. Thanks
Probably the best thing to do is go into the closed cabin and have the Mrs run a hose over the deck. Then feel around for moisture. Also the self bailing hose could be leaking, or the cockpit through-hull fitting for it could need caulking. I would not remove any lifeline stanchions unless I knew that it was leaking from one of them. Stainless steel bolts break easy. The gunwale moldings are easy to do. I did half of my boat at a time as opposed to removing all the moldings and rubber strip all at once. I marked where the screws came out and used Boatlife Boat Caulk. My gunwale strip is metal. If yours is vinyl, you should use Dow Corning 795 Caulking which is not harmful to plastics. Good luck with that.
Joe
 
Sep 29, 2008
93
Oday 22 Oneida Lake, Syracuse, NY
I had a serious problem with water in my boat last summer. I just discovered yesterday that the hose connecting the cockpit drain to the through-hull was cracked in half. It was made out of a thin, brittle plastic. I will be replacing it with a short length of flexible vinyl hose.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
I had a serious problem with water in my boat last summer. I just discovered yesterday that the hose connecting the cockpit drain to the through-hull was cracked in half. It was made out of a thin, brittle plastic. I will be replacing it with a short length of flexible vinyl hose.
Brian,
I used that reinforced vinyl hose that they sell in the hardware stores to replace my self bailing hose on my boat. If you have to bend the hose, you're better of buying a 90 degree nylon "L" fitting and using two hoses with four stainless steel hose clamps.
 
Sep 29, 2008
93
Oday 22 Oneida Lake, Syracuse, NY
Brian,
I used that reinforced vinyl hose that they sell in the hardware stores to replace my self bailing hose on my boat. If you have to bend the hose, you're better of buying a 90 degree nylon "L" fitting and using two hoses with four stainless steel hose clamps.
Thanks Trinkka, that's good advice. In this case, it's a straight shot. Do I really need the reinforced hose though? It's never really under pressure. Another thing I didn't mention in my previous post, I plan on installing a T-joint and combining the bilge pump output through the same hole. I will try to get a picture of it tonight.

Hopefully after fixing this major offense, I won't really need the bilge pump, but I'm already changing things around, so now is a good time to add one. I think this opening makes more sense than the sink output because it's centered, and rarely if ever underwater (the sink drain is almost always underwater on a good starboard tack)
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Thanks Trinkka, that's good advice. In this case, it's a straight shot. Do I really need the reinforced hose though? It's never really under pressure. Another thing I didn't mention in my previous post, I plan on installing a T-joint and combining the bilge pump output through the same hole. I will try to get a picture of it tonight.

Hopefully after fixing this major offense, I won't really need the bilge pump, but I'm already changing things around, so now is a good time to add one. I think this opening makes more sense than the sink output because it's centered, and rarely if ever underwater (the sink drain is almost always underwater on a good starboard tack)
If it's a straight shot Brian, you can go with the regular hose but they sell both at the hardware store and the price difference isn't that much, I don't think. I wouldn't cut into that hose for a "T" fitting for the bilge pump, myself. I'd install a separate thru-hull fitting over the waterline. I like where I put mine, but you can make the call. Good luck.
Joe
 
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