Oceanis 48 cockpit cushions

TropicalSeattle · May 7, 2015

I would not bother with the transom cushion, because it is huge and you won't have where to keep it when not under way, and because without a backrest this is not the most comfortable place. Get a simrad WR-10 remote instead for the same money and pilot from a more comfortable seat in the cockpit!

Absolutely yes on the galvanic isolator. Unless your boat will never be in a marina, this is cheap insurance that reduces your galvanic corrosion risks to problems under your control mostly.

Gunni · May 7, 2015

Yes to the galvanic isolator, cockpit cushions are for people who sit parked in their slip, unless you have a nearby thru-hull (for head flush water) you will need to have a thru hull installed to get your anchor wash. May need to run power from your DC panel, some Beneteaus have a dedicated power supply in the wiring loom. These are the kinds of yacht essential things that you wheel and deal on at purchase.

Gunni · May 7, 2015

Are you going to attempt to wash ches bay mud off your anchor rode with buckets? A deck wash is a location where crew can access fresh water to rinse off after a swim and to remove salt water from dive gear. Using saltwater to wash your boat invites mildew and abrasive salt buildup.

Gunni · May 7, 2015

You'll get this all sorted out in due time. Bay mud is like glue, you need a pressurized stream of water to remove it from the chain. The Sassafras has plenty of sticky mud. And you don't want that mud collecting in your anchor locker. Washing my ground tackle with salt water is the only thing I will use a pressurized salt wash system to do. I'm not a big fan of using any of my tanked fresh water for anything other than potable uses. If you go to the islands you will find that fresh water is precious, often difficult to find, and you pay for it by the gallon.

Ron20324 · May 7, 2015

Gunni said:
...I'm not a big fan of using any of my tanked fresh water for anything other than potable uses. If you go to the islands you will find that fresh water is precious, often difficult to find, and you pay for it by the gallon.

Ditto to what Gunni said. In the U.S., you have the luxury of free dock water. Offshore, you'll pay through the hose for fresh. Besides, it is suggested by the pros to take a deck shower/bath in salt water, then rinse with fresh. Same for your laundry where you DO NOT want salt in the fabric.

Ron20324 · May 7, 2015

In 2006, they offered at extra cost to a new boat, either 2 or 4 barrier coats. i got 2.

arf145 · May 7, 2015

Our POs had an anchor wash installed with it's own thruhull, and it is handy for getting the Chesapeake glue off the anchor. If I were doing it myself, I'd consider just having an intake hose that I tossed overboard when needed--don't like the extra hole in the boat!

Davidasailor26 · May 8, 2015

Sailborabora said:
Any thoughts regarding putting a barrier coat on a fresh bottom? Beneteau claims they now have an improved polyester resin, and it is not necessary, but only warranty for 10 years. Was thinking about a few layers of Interlux 2000E...comments, opinions?

The outer layer of the bottom is actually vinylester, not polyester. The consensus is that vinylester is reasonably blister resistant, although some have different experiences. Our dealer last year advised us that the necessary preparation for barrier coat (light sanding) would actually void Beneteau's hull warranty by compromising the vinylester layer. We declined to have a barrier coat applied as a result. Be sure to get something in writing from your dealer that your warranty is still valid if you decide to go that way.

Gunni · May 8, 2015

Late model Beneteau's have not had blister problems, they have this worked out. No need for barrier coat AND if you do coat you WILL need to sand the bottom..which B might well point to if you have future blister problems. Get the picture? Lean on your hull warrantee and focus on a superior bottom paint job. INSIST on a rigorous solvent wash to remove any trace of mold release wax. This is a tedious job requiring a boatload of clean rags to get it right. It is very common for the bottom paint prep to be short cut, causing bottom paint to separate from the hull in a few years. Unless you plan to leave your boat in the water for years at a time, a good option is a base layer of hard antifouling paint followed by a couple of coats of soft ablative in a contrasting color. Hydrocoat works well in the upper bay.

FlorDLuna · May 8, 2015

One alternative for washing down the anchor would be one of the several portable washdown pumps on the market. You pull it out of storage, connect it to 12volt electricity, and drop the intake hose overboard into the water. Turn it on, then spray. No thru hull. If you only need it occasionally, might be the answer.
This one sells for less than $150: http://tracoutdoor.com/shop/pumps/trac-portable-washdown-pump-kit/

Captn TJ · May 8, 2015

Sailborabora said:
I am aware that they cut corners for the bottom paint...they use the no sand method to NOT void the B hull warranty, dealer does a coat of INterlux 2000E, then 2 coats ablative antifouling. Instead of just that one coat Interlux 2000E, thought of adding an extra one or 2 coats...to support as a barrier protection. Thought it can't hurt...especially in the future if I keep the boat in the water year round. Gonna have to buy you out a drink or 2 Gunni when we visit Annapolis this summer... I plan to "hang around" when they do this bottoms to make sure all that wax comes off...and hound them

If I recall the 200E instructions call for 5 coats. Not sure if one would be of benefit to you - certainly to the dealer for up charging.

Captn TJ · May 8, 2015

Make sure the portable pumps have comperable pressure - washing mud off requires a lot more pressure than washing down a deck