(Oceanis 373) Water drainage from starting battery spot to main bilge pump reservoir

[vallkor]

Oceanis 373 2005. I have a leak and water collects in a reservoir where starting battery is located, and in a smaller reservoir on the right And left from the engine, and I was surprised that these reservoirs are not connected to the main bilge pump reservoir and water just sticks there creating a safety risk.

Is it normal that starter battery "reservoir/section" is not connected to the main bilge pump reservoir and how to fix it? See the picture and video.

 

[jssailem]

I do not know your boat. Generally, the bilge is connected via weep holes in the stringers and bulkheads. These can become blocked by gunk and may need to be cleaned.

There is a good reason for the battery box to be separated from the bilge. Battery acid from overcharged batteries that boil over can become contained in the battery box. Wear protective glasses and gloves when dealing with any fluids in a battery box.

I would source the fluid that is draining into the battery box and stop it, rather than trying to create a drain to the rest of your bilge.

 

[Caboteur]

Your picture shows water in the battery area. It also shows the other basin connected to it… this is under the engine and has some oil in it. Were all this to drain to the main bilge and be pumped out you would be in trouble! Pumping oil overboard isn’t lightly regarded anywhere.
I would clean all this out (including the other basin), find the leak and fix it.
A dirty but very gratifying job. (Been there)
Pierre

 

[Davidasailor26]

On the 37 (the next generation after the 373) there are limber holes from that area into the bilge. The pan under the engine, between the stringers that hold the engine mounts, is separate and isolated to contain any engine spills. The battery box itself should contain any acid that spills over from the battery. My guess is there are limber holes somewhere in the forward part of that compartment that have gotten plugged from debris over time.

 

[vallkor]

My guess is there are limber holes somewhere in the forward part of that compartment that have gotten plugged from debris over time.

Thanks! I checked multiple times and didn't find wholes that connects battery section with bilge pump I hope someone with similar 373 can confirm it is the case for them too.

 

[BigEasy]

Oceanis 373 2005. I have a leak and water collects in a reservoir where starting battery is located, and in a smaller reservoir on the right. Is it normal that starter battery "reservoir/section" is not connected to the main bilge pump reservoir and how to fix it?

Have a similar configuration on my 06 Oceanis 343. Years ago, I had a leaking thru hull fitting for shaft seal cooling water & water pooled in that dedicated battery space. Had to vacuum it to empty. Suggest you vacuum & dry. Likely source(s) are shaft seal, shaft seal cooling water nipple, both thru hull fittings & components for raw water & shaft seal cooling water, exhaust mixing elbow, water pumps, & hoses.

 

[Bob S]

I had clean fresh water accumulating in that area. Turned out to be coming from the fresh water fill hose. If I fill the aft water tank until it overflows the water would eventually accumulate there.

 

[jssailem]

Discovery leads to the emergency being abated.

 

[vallkor]

I found the source of leakage, it's a place where large black hose from engine connects to large grey plastic container, see the video

Questions:

1) is it ok for engine to vibrate like this? It seems like such vibration can break eventually any connector

2) what's the best practice to replace this hose/plastic container?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Davidasailor26]

That gray plastic box isn’t a container, it’s the water lift muffler. In the best case the problem is just that the hose clamp is loose. In the worst case the muffler is cracked and will need to be replaced. The other, in between, possibility is that the hose is cracked and needs to be replaced.

My first step would be to test the tightness of the hose clamps. If they’re not loose then I’d remove the hose from the muffler and inspect both. It might help to heat up the hose with a hairdryer to make it a little more pliable, but you’ll probably still have a battle with it. If the muffler is cracked you’ll need to replace it, but at that point I’d probably replace the hose too, as it’s probably more than 20 years old.

In any case this is something you’ll want to fix before running the engine much more. If water is leaking it’s possible exhaust gasses are too, or could start to if the crack gets worse. That will cause a bad smelling cabin and in the worst case potentially carbon monoxide in the cabin.

 

[vallkor]

Thanks a lot!! Can I kindly ask you also to check another video I attached (attaching again to this comment) to see if it is ok for engine to shake that much? I'm afraid this shaking will destroy any connect / clam.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I think mine vibrates about that much at idle. It runs smoother once the engine speeds up. Old soft motor mounts can allow excessive vibration but if it runs smoother once it’s turning over 1000 RPMs I wouldn’t worry.

 

[dlochner]

If you look closely at the hose on the muffler, you can see some water dribbling out and water stains down the muffler. That is one likely source of the water.

Is the motor a Yanmar 4JHxx? Three cylinder Yanmars are know to jump around a lot at idle speed, my 3JH2e jumps like a Willys in 4 wheel drive when idling. Does the motor movement settle down when the rpms are increased? How old are the motor mounts?

There is a red wire running through the mount, that should be moved and secured before it chafes through.