Any legality issues if I add additional lines to his boat?
Take pictures of the boats around you, particularly the condition of the dock lines.More concerned about the other boat next to me in the slip, No action taken and mooring lines are worn and fraying. Any legality issues if I add additional lines to his boat?
Take pictures of the boats around you, particularly the condition of the dock lines.
You can increase the number of lines on a cleat by the method that you choose to use to attach the lines to the cleat. On one of my stern cleats, I currently have 5 lines for the storm (going in several directions). Instead of wrapping figure eights on the cleats, put loops in the lines. Loops should be just big enough to go over the cleat horns. Also, most of the cleats today have a open center section. On one or two lines, the last ones put on, run the loop through the center of the cleat and back around the horns. That will help the ones with loops just dropped over the cleat to stay on the cleat. This means that the lines will have to be adjusted from the other end, or to adjust at the boat, you might have to retie the loop in the line at the appropriate spot. Also, keep in mind that we are talking about survival mode here. You have other attachment point possibilities: place a shackle or block to the bow stem plate and connect some lines there. Also, the genoa track slide is a tie point, and you can add cleats to the track...these are good for spring lines where the pull will be more fore and aft to use the strength of the track attachment. Some people don't like to do it for fear of tearing them out, but I use my winches as tie points. Deck mounted turning blocks (if you have them) work also. The base of the mast gives unlimited additional tie points. Use cleats on both sides. But in all these cases, keep in mind that your boat is going to move about a good bit and up and down according to wind surge effects. Make sure you can make these movements without hanging on life lines, stanchions, or rails. For the storm, you can drop your life lines if needed. Since reliance on a single cleat means disaster if it fails, use of alternate tie points gives safety against this. (Cleats do fail...boat across from me was badly damaged some years ago when the cleat broke and the boat went agains the finger pier and piling in one of these storms). Also, if the water will come over your dock cleats at some point and you do have figure eights on the cleat, tie the tail of your lines back into the line. Wave action will untie a traditionally cleated line if it's under water. I've seen damage to boats from this as well. After you get this spider web of lines on, adjust them so that the lines share the load. Long lines will stretch more under a given load than short ones, so tie long lines tighter.I have (4) 8" cleats firmly bolted to the bulkhead and my boat has cleats at the bow and stern but no midship cleat. I have spring lines from the starboard bow cleat to a mid dock cleat and from the starboard stern cleat to a mid dock cleat. I also run a line from the bow and stern to the 2 cleats one ahead and one behind the boat respectively. So all 4 dock cleats are used and the stern and bow cleats on the starboard side are doubled. How do I double up on this as the stern and bow cleats are already full???
Great point. Heading down this afternoon to prepare and I am going to give this a shot. Luckliy each forecast is showing Earl a little further east by the time he gets to us. Hope it stays that way. Looks like our friend in NE and eastern Canada may get it a bit harder. Good luck.Instead of wrapping figure eights on the cleats, put loops in the lines. Loops should be just big enough to go over the cleat horns. Also, most of the cleats today have a open center section. On one or two lines, the last ones put on, run the loop through the center of the cleat and back around the horns. That will help the ones with loops just dropped over the cleat to stay on the cleat.
is how we did it last yr in gulf, also--good teamwork.Ross, having someone drive the boat forward should leave you to just gather the rode as it comes to you without having to break your back pulling the boat forward. Letting the engine do the work of moving the boat should make this a 'no' back breaker. This is what me & the Mrs do. I sit on the foredeck with my feet in the open anchor locker to gather and stow the rode. I use hand signals to help her steer a little left or right or kill power.