Non-skid recommendations

[prroots]

We are applying a product called Honey Teak (http://www.signaturefinish.com/index.php?topic=Honey+Teak) to our teak swim platform. We wish to make it non-skid since the end result will have the appearance of gloss varnish. Our idea is to mix into the final coat some kind of non-skid mixture. It should have a clear color. Any suggestions?
Pete

 

[Ray Bowles]

There are different colors of sand available at craft stores but none that are clear that I know of. The sand will appear to pick up some of the background color after the final clear coat if one is used. Just a thought.
Ray

 

[Steve Dion]

Pete:

You may want to check out the Practical Sailor article from Jan 2012. They have an article about non-skid. They mention an additive from Awlgrip that may be mixed with paint. I assume that it may work with varnishes too. You can always contact the mfg for their advise.

 

[Allan12210]

Peter,

I revarnished my floor boards to the dinghy this summer and wanted a non skid surface. I used a product I bought at Home Depot made by Rust-Oleum called Epoxy Shield. It is a plastic grain that appears clear when wetted out with the varnish. It comes in a plastic pouch and is used to treat 1 gallon. In my case then I figured out that was equal to 1/2 ounce of powder (in a measuring cup, dry) to every cup (8 oz wet) of varnish. I used tape to mask off where I wanted to have the non-skid and applied the last two thin coats stirring the mixture constantly to keep it from settling while I applied it. It gives me the non-slip surface I was looking for.

Allan

 

[Ed Schenck]

Allan, when were you last in Huron, Ohio? Or maybe you bought that floorboard off E-Bay. When I left Lake Erie in July 2007 that front piece was missing from my 8' Avon. Towed and used it all the way to Tampa without that board. You can almost see the dinghy in my avatar. Also missing was the connector piece. I finally bought an inflatable floor that fits from a fellow SBO member.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Walnut hulls processed in a blender.
Salt shaken on wet final coat then remove it with water once the varnish dries.

 

[Allan12210]

Allan, when were you last in Huron, Ohio? Or maybe you bought that floorboard off E-Bay. When I left Lake Erie in July 2007 that front piece was missing from my 8' Avon. Towed and used it all the way to Tampa without that board. You can almost see the dinghy in my avatar. Also missing was the connector piece. I finally bought an inflatable floor that fits from a fellow SBO member.

Ed,

It must have floated all the way through the canal and into the bay. After I cleaned off the Zebra Mussels and sanded off your name, it fit my dinghy perfectly! (LOL).

Allan

 

[RichH]

Honey Teak is going to be very slippery when wetted and no matter what 'texture' you add to it.
If you havent already started with the HT, I suggest a teak 'sealer' such as SEMCO. I use this exclusively on my extensive teak decks and it has the equal 'non-slip' ability as bare fresh sanded teak but prevents 'the greys'. Semco has to be 'slopped on' every few (4-5) months. http://www.semcoteakproducts.com/

Honey Teak brightwork with SEMCO decks:

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Having refinished boats for many years, if you have a walking surface that is glossy, regardless of whether it has grit in it or not, it will be slippery underfoot when wet. So, if you have a teak swim platform I would finish it without grit with a matt finish and then your grip will be better when wet and the finish will look great. And, if you want, you can always add a nonskid tape here and there and if you do a good job, it will look good. But that would be the last resort for me. Other products to consider other than Semco would be Sikkens Cetol (Natural Teak color has UV inhibitors in it unlike their other formulations).

 

[Allan12210]

Honey Teak is going to be very slippery when wetted and no matter what 'texture' you add to it.
If you havent already started with the HT, I suggest a teak 'sealer' such as SEMCO. I use this exclusively on my extensive teak decks and it has the equal 'non-slip' ability as bare fresh sanded teak but prevents 'the greys'. Semco has to be 'slopped on' every few (4-5) months. http://www.semcoteakproducts.com/

Honey Teak brightwork with SEMCO decks:

Rich,

That is an absolutely beautiful boat. Nice work. I really like the solar powered winches too!

Allan

 

[swampdawg]

shark grip from Lowes

 

[prroots]

Honey Teak is going to be very slippery when wetted and no matter what 'texture' you add to it.
If you havent already started with the HT, I suggest a teak 'sealer' such as SEMCO. I use this exclusively on my extensive teak decks and it has the equal 'non-slip' ability as bare fresh sanded teak but prevents 'the greys'. Semco has to be 'slopped on' every few (4-5) months. http://www.semcoteakproducts.com/

Honey Teak brightwork with SEMCO decks:

Thanks. Which color of Semco do you like? Any comments on Honey Teak; we just finished applying it to the cockpit seats.
Pete

 

[prroots]

I've seen positive comments for Semco and TeakGuard. Can anyone who has used both comment on the pros and cons of each? Thanks
Pete

 

[RichH]

If Honey Teak is applied 'thick' it (the base coats where the UV protection is) can last for upwards of 12 years, with just an every two year quick maintenance cost of 'clear' - in northern climates, a quick yearly clear coat in the tropics. Ultimately moisture will 'wick' through the wood and especially the scarfs and become blackish ... 10-12 years is about the limit. Expensive, but when you amortize the cost and time over 10+ years HT comes out as the 'cheapest' and most time efficient.
The clear can be flat wetsanded (2000 grit) then 'powerbuffed' with 3M Perfect-it to equate to an ultra-prime 'mega-yacht' quality varnish job. The 'flatter' you get the final clear coat the less need for 'maintenance' clear coating.

Semco does not tolerate well 'green sea water' coming aboard and will quickly 'thin' and need recoating. Usually after a long 'passage' you will need to do a quick coat. The good thing is that if needs to be stripped, because of the 'blotches' from green sea water, it is easily stripped with a mild solution of trisodiumphosphate (TSP) then bleached with oxalic acid. For aggressive long distance 'blue water' sailing, you can mix 1/3+ Semco, 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Thompsons WaterSeal (with 'carmel' tint) for a longer lasting mix and with little increase of 'slippy-ness' when wet. I prefer 'natural' Semco but "goldtone" has more pigment and does last much longer. With teak decks, and the price of teak now running $50/ board ft., .... such is an 'economy' of maintenance and replacement cost.

Teak Guard doesnt allow the teak to become wetted out by water and therefore is 'slippery' when wet ... almost to the same loss of 'wet footing' as Cetol or varnish, etc.
Semco allows some water to penetrate through the coating so the wet 'footing' remains quite good.

 

[prroots]

If Honey Teak is applied 'thick' it (the base coats where the UV protection is) can last for upwards of 12 years, with just an every two year quick maintenance cost of 'clear' - in northern climates, a quick yearly clear coat in the tropics. Ultimately moisture will 'wick' through the wood and especially the scarfs and become blackish ... 10-12 years is about the limit. Expensive, but when you amortize the cost and time over 10+ years HT comes out as the 'cheapest' and most time efficient.
The clear can be flat wetsanded (2000 grit) then 'powerbuffed' with 3M Perfect-it to equate to an ultra-prime 'mega-yacht' quality varnish job. The 'flatter' you get the final clear coat the less need for 'maintenance' clear coating.

Semco does not tolerate well 'green sea water' coming aboard and will quickly 'thin' and need recoating. Usually after a long 'passage' you will need to do a quick coat. The good thing is that if needs to be stripped, because of the 'blotches' from green sea water, it is easily stripped with a mild solution of trisodiumphosphate (TSP) then bleached with oxalic acid. For aggressive long distance 'blue water' sailing, you can mix 1/3+ Semco, 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Thompsons WaterSeal (with 'carmel' tint) for a longer lasting mix and with little increase of 'slippy-ness' when wet. I prefer 'natural' Semco but "goldtone" has more pigment and does last much longer. With teak decks, and the price of teak now running $50/ board ft., .... such is an 'economy' of maintenance and replacement cost.

Teak Guard doesnt allow the teak to become wetted out by water and therefore is 'slippery' when wet ... almost to the same loss of 'wet footing' as Cetol or varnish, etc.
Semco allows some water to penetrate through the coating so the wet 'footing' remains quite good.

Thanks a lot; guess we'll go with Semco on the swim platform. When you say strip the Semco (after long passage) are you taking it down to the bare wood?
Pete

 

[RichH]

Nope, the TSP 'loosens' or dissolves the SEMCO; and since the surface of the teak hasnt been UV destroyed, the TSP has little effect on the teak. TSP dissolves UV 'burned' wood cells.

 

[prroots]

Nope, the TSP 'loosens' or dissolves the SEMCO; and since the surface of the teak hasnt been UV destroyed, the TSP has little effect on the teak. TSP dissolves UV 'burned' wood cells.

Thanks again; very helpful
Pete

 

[prroots]

Nope, the TSP 'loosens' or dissolves the SEMCO; and since the surface of the teak hasnt been UV destroyed, the TSP has little effect on the teak. TSP dissolves UV 'burned' wood cells.

We just applied two coats of the Semco Natural to the swim platform as instructed. We like the color; very natural looking! It does seem to attack the black caulk between teak.
Pete

 

[prroots]

Nope, the TSP 'loosens' or dissolves the SEMCO; and since the surface of the teak hasnt been UV destroyed, the TSP has little effect on the teak. TSP dissolves UV 'burned' wood cells.

Since you are a Honey Teak user it might interest you to know that Tom Fabula's house has burned down. Everyone is safe, but the house is completely destroyed. We drove by since we are in his neighborhood. He was running his business out of his house in Hobe Sound, FL. A neighbor said he is now in a rental and no calls are being returned. We knew something strange was happening since he wasn't returning our calls so we drove by today.
Pete