Can you paint or some how change the color of the non-skid part of the top side? Wife hates the color.
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Yes
Decks can be painted with topsides paint. Many products and manufactures on the market. You need to do your homework and research which will work best for you. As with any painting 90% of it is in the proper prep work. Go on line and start reading I suggest you start with "Interlux" one of the largest marine paint suppliers.(also Petit, Alwgrip......etc)
Decks can be painted with topsides paint. Many products and manufactures on the market. You need to do your homework and research which will work best for you. As with any painting 90% of it is in the proper prep work. Go on line and start reading I suggest you start with "Interlux" one of the largest marine paint suppliers.(also Petit, Alwgrip......etc)
repainting nonskid
Ours was changed from gray to light tan which looked better, however, be careful to preserve the non skid characteristic as simply painting over the existing non skid will cause the deck to become slippery.
Ours was changed from gray to light tan which looked better, however, be careful to preserve the non skid characteristic as simply painting over the existing non skid will cause the deck to become slippery.
Deck nonskid
Yep, you can use regular topsides paint for decks. As for the non skid properties you have several choices. Some use ground up walnut shells, others much more readily available non skid that you can get at Home Depot/Lowes, and just add to the paint. Some of the diamond pattern non skid decks may be paintable without losing the non skid performance. You might also look at some of the commercially available urethane paints from HD/Lowes. While I haven't tried them they basically the same paints as the high dollar boat paints, with a much lower price tag. As was said by another poster, the trick is in the prep work. Good prep equals a good paint job.
Yep, you can use regular topsides paint for decks. As for the non skid properties you have several choices. Some use ground up walnut shells, others much more readily available non skid that you can get at Home Depot/Lowes, and just add to the paint. Some of the diamond pattern non skid decks may be paintable without losing the non skid performance. You might also look at some of the commercially available urethane paints from HD/Lowes. While I haven't tried them they basically the same paints as the high dollar boat paints, with a much lower price tag. As was said by another poster, the trick is in the prep work. Good prep equals a good paint job.
Another advantage
As I mentioned there are some good, high quality urethane paints available from HD/Lowes. One of the advantages of these is the ability to have any color your heart desires. Some will probably disagree with me on the non marine paints, but they are made for decks, garage floors and other outdoor high wear areas. Sounds kind of like a boat deck to me.
As I mentioned there are some good, high quality urethane paints available from HD/Lowes. One of the advantages of these is the ability to have any color your heart desires. Some will probably disagree with me on the non marine paints, but they are made for decks, garage floors and other outdoor high wear areas. Sounds kind of like a boat deck to me.
Been there....
This last season, we repainted the deck to our Peterson 34 and suggest you do it in the offseason. Proper preparation is 90% of the job. 1) Remove all deck hardware 2) Sand deck smooth to 120 grit sandpaper (buy in bulk). 3) Wipe down deck with Denatured Alcohol and Interlux #216(???). 4) Tape the deck w/ blue masking tape. 5) Prime with Interlux Pre-Kote using high quality 6 inch foam roller. 6) Sand primer with 220 grit sandpaper. 7) Apply second coat of Interlux Pre-Kote primer. 8) Thoroughly wipe down the deck w/ Denatured Alcohol and Interlux #216(???). 9) Roll one coat of Interlux Brightside paint with Flattening Agent and non-skid compound with a very high quality 7 inch 3/8" non-shedding roller. After many phone calls to Interlux and experimenting on flat platic, I used 3qts Brightside, 1 qt #2398 non-skid compound, and 1 qt flattening agent. 10) Roll on second coat of paint after 24 hours 11) Remove blue masking tape, 12) Re-install the hardware. The boat is 34' long 11'6" wide and we used approx 3/4 gallons on Interlux Pre-Kote, 4 qts Interlux Brightside Seattle Grey, 1-1/3 qts #2398 non-skid finish, and 1 qt Flattening Agent. Interlux also makes Interdeck whaich is a pre-mixed non-skid pain, but you are limited in your color selection. You cannot put a two paint, ie Interlux Perfection, on top of a one part polyurethane paint, ie Interlux Brightside.
This last season, we repainted the deck to our Peterson 34 and suggest you do it in the offseason. Proper preparation is 90% of the job. 1) Remove all deck hardware 2) Sand deck smooth to 120 grit sandpaper (buy in bulk). 3) Wipe down deck with Denatured Alcohol and Interlux #216(???). 4) Tape the deck w/ blue masking tape. 5) Prime with Interlux Pre-Kote using high quality 6 inch foam roller. 6) Sand primer with 220 grit sandpaper. 7) Apply second coat of Interlux Pre-Kote primer. 8) Thoroughly wipe down the deck w/ Denatured Alcohol and Interlux #216(???). 9) Roll one coat of Interlux Brightside paint with Flattening Agent and non-skid compound with a very high quality 7 inch 3/8" non-shedding roller. After many phone calls to Interlux and experimenting on flat platic, I used 3qts Brightside, 1 qt #2398 non-skid compound, and 1 qt flattening agent. 10) Roll on second coat of paint after 24 hours 11) Remove blue masking tape, 12) Re-install the hardware. The boat is 34' long 11'6" wide and we used approx 3/4 gallons on Interlux Pre-Kote, 4 qts Interlux Brightside Seattle Grey, 1-1/3 qts #2398 non-skid finish, and 1 qt Flattening Agent. Interlux also makes Interdeck whaich is a pre-mixed non-skid pain, but you are limited in your color selection. You cannot put a two paint, ie Interlux Perfection, on top of a one part polyurethane paint, ie Interlux Brightside.
gelcoat
hello, for what its worth (2xcents) i use a brown then red scotchbright pad to scuff it up (after i washed it with strong detergent-dishsoap and then some bar keepers friend. Then i wipe it down with acetone and clean rags. Then i roll or brush gelcoat on. works for me. the roller is a 1/4" nap and i wrap it with tape and then peal off the tape to remove loose fuzies. The gelcoat is alittle porous and not shiney, and roller adds alittle morew texture to the diamond pattern. check with a gelcoat supplier.
hello, for what its worth (2xcents) i use a brown then red scotchbright pad to scuff it up (after i washed it with strong detergent-dishsoap and then some bar keepers friend. Then i wipe it down with acetone and clean rags. Then i roll or brush gelcoat on. works for me. the roller is a 1/4" nap and i wrap it with tape and then peal off the tape to remove loose fuzies. The gelcoat is alittle porous and not shiney, and roller adds alittle morew texture to the diamond pattern. check with a gelcoat supplier.
Re gelcoat the non-skid
Greg: Depending on the type of gelcoat, you can re gelcoat the non-skid. You need a nappy roller and the gelcoat with some thickener. It is referred to rollable gelcoat.
Greg: Depending on the type of gelcoat, you can re gelcoat the non-skid. You need a nappy roller and the gelcoat with some thickener. It is referred to rollable gelcoat.
Here is a site that has non skid for decks.
I really doubt that you want to have any type of nonskid on your "topsides". As you know, topside is that area on a boat that extends from the waterline to the deck. This site will give you quite a selection of "deck" non skid colours which may please your admiral.
I really doubt that you want to have any type of nonskid on your "topsides". As you know, topside is that area on a boat that extends from the waterline to the deck. This site will give you quite a selection of "deck" non skid colours which may please your admiral.
Painting with Brightside
Rick, Do you have any pics of the seattle on your deck? I am thinking about painting my boat with it this weekend and was wondering if its just too light. Did you like the flattening you achieved with 3:1? I am going over molded nonskid and im not sure if that will be flat enough? Any ideas? Also - I noticed you didnt reapply the rape between coats.. Did this cause any peeling or problems when you finally pulled the blue tape? Some people have suggested retaping after each coat, but what a pain!! Thanks for any help!
Rick, Do you have any pics of the seattle on your deck? I am thinking about painting my boat with it this weekend and was wondering if its just too light. Did you like the flattening you achieved with 3:1? I am going over molded nonskid and im not sure if that will be flat enough? Any ideas? Also - I noticed you didnt reapply the rape between coats.. Did this cause any peeling or problems when you finally pulled the blue tape? Some people have suggested retaping after each coat, but what a pain!! Thanks for any help!
One more question
Also Rick, Did your second coat also contain nonskid? Were the 4 quarts for both coats?
Also Rick, Did your second coat also contain nonskid? Were the 4 quarts for both coats?
Interdeck ...
I bought a quart of Interdeck (Interlux) but have not applied it yet. Our non-skid is not the molded pattern. Now, we have decent traction while wearing rubber soles when the deck is either wet or dry, but very poor traction with bare feet. Since we are often without shoes, I would prefer better traction. When bare footed and wet, the deck is like an ice rink. Does anybody have experience with Interdeck? Does it have a more aggressive non-skid? I thought the color selection was pretty good. I bought light beige, and I'm hoping it isn't overwhelming in contrast to the white.
I bought a quart of Interdeck (Interlux) but have not applied it yet. Our non-skid is not the molded pattern. Now, we have decent traction while wearing rubber soles when the deck is either wet or dry, but very poor traction with bare feet. Since we are often without shoes, I would prefer better traction. When bare footed and wet, the deck is like an ice rink. Does anybody have experience with Interdeck? Does it have a more aggressive non-skid? I thought the color selection was pretty good. I bought light beige, and I'm hoping it isn't overwhelming in contrast to the white.
deck non skid
One thing I learn a few years ago. Don't cheap out and use a one part apoxy. Spend a little more and get two part. I used Interlux Perfection, two part sandtone. Very light tan. Looks great and wares forever..
One thing I learn a few years ago. Don't cheap out and use a one part apoxy. Spend a little more and get two part. I used Interlux Perfection, two part sandtone. Very light tan. Looks great and wares forever..
non skid
In addition to the two part apoxy, I used the non skid you buy and sprinkle on. Very fine, like salt, works great... I was really surprised what a good non skid it is.
In addition to the two part apoxy, I used the non skid you buy and sprinkle on. Very fine, like salt, works great... I was really surprised what a good non skid it is.
I Interlux "perfection' ....
and NO PRIMER. My previous non-skid was a fine 'basket weave' pattern. I scubbed the hell out of the non-skid with Comet and a STIFF scrub brush and applied the Perfection (mixed with anti-gloss compound) then added a thin coat of the 'shake-on' Interlux non-skid granules. No lifting, has good traction after 4 years. Since 2-part urethanes are so THIN they dont fill-in all the old pattern. Id advise to stay away from single part urethanes for decks ... too soft, too subject to UV damage/chalking Actually I wouldnt use them anywhere as they simply dont 'hold-up' very long.
and NO PRIMER. My previous non-skid was a fine 'basket weave' pattern. I scubbed the hell out of the non-skid with Comet and a STIFF scrub brush and applied the Perfection (mixed with anti-gloss compound) then added a thin coat of the 'shake-on' Interlux non-skid granules. No lifting, has good traction after 4 years. Since 2-part urethanes are so THIN they dont fill-in all the old pattern. Id advise to stay away from single part urethanes for decks ... too soft, too subject to UV damage/chalking Actually I wouldnt use them anywhere as they simply dont 'hold-up' very long.
another method
I had re-done all the non-skid on my deck last fall. This method my not be for everyone but it turned out great and if the other boats I have seen done this way are any indication it last a long time. 1) Wipe areas to be painted with interlux 216 2) Tape off with two layers of blue tape 3) Sand to rough up the surface and smooth out in any imperfections 4) Vacuum up sanding dust 5) Roll on Awlgrip with second person following with shaker can of interlux nonskid 6) Allow to dry 7) Vacuum up non-skid 8) Apply second coat of Awlgrip 9) Peel tape 10) Grab a cold one and admire you new looking non-skid You get a very uniform, factory looking finish with this method. IMHO you get a clumpy look when you mix the non-skid into the paint. It will take more cans of non-skid to paint this way but in the end you are going to reclaim most of it and the guy in the boat next to you will buy it off you to do his deck (clean the vacuum before vacuuming up the non-skid). I also painted a dinghy I built over the winter with topsides. I used the same method as above on the inside floor of the boat except I used the topsides and silica sand instead of the awlgrip and interlux non-skid. It turned out just as well so I will most likely use the silica sand on all future decks. $4.50 for 50lbs compared to $28 a qt can for interlux seems like a bargain. Any of the ways I have seen on here so far work and none of them are hard to do so paint away! After all you are only a paint brush (roller) away from changing it back
I had re-done all the non-skid on my deck last fall. This method my not be for everyone but it turned out great and if the other boats I have seen done this way are any indication it last a long time. 1) Wipe areas to be painted with interlux 216 2) Tape off with two layers of blue tape 3) Sand to rough up the surface and smooth out in any imperfections 4) Vacuum up sanding dust 5) Roll on Awlgrip with second person following with shaker can of interlux nonskid 6) Allow to dry 7) Vacuum up non-skid 8) Apply second coat of Awlgrip 9) Peel tape 10) Grab a cold one and admire you new looking non-skid You get a very uniform, factory looking finish with this method. IMHO you get a clumpy look when you mix the non-skid into the paint. It will take more cans of non-skid to paint this way but in the end you are going to reclaim most of it and the guy in the boat next to you will buy it off you to do his deck (clean the vacuum before vacuuming up the non-skid). I also painted a dinghy I built over the winter with topsides. I used the same method as above on the inside floor of the boat except I used the topsides and silica sand instead of the awlgrip and interlux non-skid. It turned out just as well so I will most likely use the silica sand on all future decks. $4.50 for 50lbs compared to $28 a qt can for interlux seems like a bargain. Any of the ways I have seen on here so far work and none of them are hard to do so paint away! After all you are only a paint brush (roller) away from changing it back
Rich
I didn't use any primer on mine. I have seen decks painted by the guy the told me how to do this that we 7-8 years old and still looked good with no problems. I am very happy with the look you get with the shake on method.
I didn't use any primer on mine. I have seen decks painted by the guy the told me how to do this that we 7-8 years old and still looked good with no problems. I am very happy with the look you get with the shake on method.
Thanks William .....
Ive been dong it that way with various Interlux products for some time with fairly good adhesion results. I did contact AkzoNobel and although they wont put it in writing, the consensus is that it shouldnt be a problem if in fact the non-skid surface structure has a lot of 'roughness'. The reason Im switching to Awlgrip is the ability to 'tint' it to the proper 'hue' for color matching (but not for 'topside' painting as you simply cant buff-out 'mistakes'. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Ive been dong it that way with various Interlux products for some time with fairly good adhesion results. I did contact AkzoNobel and although they wont put it in writing, the consensus is that it shouldnt be a problem if in fact the non-skid surface structure has a lot of 'roughness'. The reason Im switching to Awlgrip is the ability to 'tint' it to the proper 'hue' for color matching (but not for 'topside' painting as you simply cant buff-out 'mistakes'. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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