What items have you come across that are good substitutes for marine items? I've been thnking about getting a wind scoop for my hatch and when I saw a mini beach cabana for $5 on craigslist I got to thinking that some of you must have some money saving ideas. I realize that the mini cabana is not a perfect substitute, but for $5 I'm willing to try it with some shock cord. The good thing about non-marine items is that they are more readily available second hand at yard sales, flea markets, etc.
"non-boat/marine" items that work well
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IF you're going to get stainless steel hardware at the hardware store, bring a magnet with you. Martensitic and Ferritic grades are magnetic and have much lower corrosion resistance than the Austenitic grade stainless steels, which are the marine grades, like 304 and 316. Do not use Martensitic or Ferritic grades of stainless steel on a boat, particularly on the exterior.
It's simply called
ACE Hardware...
There's lots of stuff there that works, like tools: $114 to $179 for a bolt / shroud cutter at a chandlery. $15.44 plus tax at ACE.
ACE Hardware...
There's lots of stuff there that works, like tools: $114 to $179 for a bolt / shroud cutter at a chandlery. $15.44 plus tax at ACE.
I forgot to put this in my original post. I got a new outboard motor cover at WM for $6 (40% off). I have a Magma kettle grill that needs a cover so I checked to see if the outboard cover would work. It did, so I saved about $30 and my new grill cover matches my motor cover (I realize that this is not a non-marine item, but I think it's a good alternate use that saves a few bucks).
Often overlooked
Often overlooked are parts that are available from auto parts stores, that are exactly the same thing. Few years ago, I had an offshore fishin boat, with a Mercruiser. The universal joint was bad. Merc dealer wanted 59.95, and the exact same part from NAPA was around 10 bucks. Also all bearings and seals. Same part number, same part. Less than 1/3 the cost at a bearing supply.
Often overlooked are parts that are available from auto parts stores, that are exactly the same thing. Few years ago, I had an offshore fishin boat, with a Mercruiser. The universal joint was bad. Merc dealer wanted 59.95, and the exact same part from NAPA was around 10 bucks. Also all bearings and seals. Same part number, same part. Less than 1/3 the cost at a bearing supply.
About 10 years ago I was doing a rebuild on a 74 Corvette. I went into to Advanced Auto and said I needed a thermostat gasket. He asked year and model of car. I told him 74 Corvette, $13 they would have to order it. I got home and started thinking. Called back and asked if they had a thermostat gasket for a Chevy 350ci engine. $1.50 they had 20 in stock.
They will get every penny they think they can.
Silicone sealant -- $4 for a name brand BIG tube at walmart, $9 for a small tube in the marine section, still at walmart, still silicone.
And if you are permanently on freshwater and your stereo is inside, it is questionable if you really need a marine version. It will probably be long outdated before it actually fails.
Rotella oil for your engine is much cheaper at Advance/Auto Zone than your average marine store.
NEVER buy those nice looking colored lines at Home Depot and try to use them as sheets, halyards, or anything on your boat. They only have a foam core, and will instantly stretch when put under even a light load. (And yes, I found this one out by experience!) I don't even know any application an 'unloadable' line would be good for, other than mean pranks on your sailing buddies!
Regular polyeuethene varnish works just fine inside and holds up well. Don't skimp on the outside wood, I recommend Cetol.
I personally think a shot of vegetable oil works fine to keep the head lubed and working smoothly, as opposed to $8 "head lube." And on that topic, environmentally safe RV holding tank deodorizer and TP seem to work fine too.
And I swear by ebay for most purchases of 'real' marine items.
And if you are permanently on freshwater and your stereo is inside, it is questionable if you really need a marine version. It will probably be long outdated before it actually fails.
Rotella oil for your engine is much cheaper at Advance/Auto Zone than your average marine store.
NEVER buy those nice looking colored lines at Home Depot and try to use them as sheets, halyards, or anything on your boat. They only have a foam core, and will instantly stretch when put under even a light load. (And yes, I found this one out by experience!) I don't even know any application an 'unloadable' line would be good for, other than mean pranks on your sailing buddies!
Regular polyeuethene varnish works just fine inside and holds up well. Don't skimp on the outside wood, I recommend Cetol.
I personally think a shot of vegetable oil works fine to keep the head lubed and working smoothly, as opposed to $8 "head lube." And on that topic, environmentally safe RV holding tank deodorizer and TP seem to work fine too.
And I swear by ebay for most purchases of 'real' marine items.
I haven't used it yet, but plan on using polyurethane sealant made for roof and flashing. I'm going to use it on my hulljoint. Read about it in a boat rebuild book. Supposed to be the same stuff as 5200, but we'll see. I'm going to say this is probably a "use at your own risk" item. I know it is really tough stuff, though.
Fwiw...
Mark said, "I personally think a shot of vegetable oil works fine to keep the head lubed and working smoothly, as opposed to $8 "head lube." And on that topic, environmentally safe RV holding tank deodorizer and TP seem to work fine too."
Apparently you haven't figured out yet that marine and RV TP are identical. So if you're buying RV TP, you're paying too much for TP.
Mineral oil (baby oil is mineral oil that smells nicer, btw) is a better choice to lube the toilet than vegetable oil, which can not only get sticky, but can also turn rancid in summer heat. However, neither is as good choice as a shot of thick teflon grease--available from any swimming pool supply bicycle shop or auto parts store--in the pump, 'cuz both mineral oil and vegetable oil wash out in just a few flushes, so it's a never ending job...but a healthy shot of Teflon grease lasts all season. Teflon grease is also good for seacocks, y-valves and anything else that needs lubrication that can survive being wet.
Mark said, "I personally think a shot of vegetable oil works fine to keep the head lubed and working smoothly, as opposed to $8 "head lube." And on that topic, environmentally safe RV holding tank deodorizer and TP seem to work fine too."
Apparently you haven't figured out yet that marine and RV TP are identical. So if you're buying RV TP, you're paying too much for TP.
Mineral oil (baby oil is mineral oil that smells nicer, btw) is a better choice to lube the toilet than vegetable oil, which can not only get sticky, but can also turn rancid in summer heat. However, neither is as good choice as a shot of thick teflon grease--available from any swimming pool supply bicycle shop or auto parts store--in the pump, 'cuz both mineral oil and vegetable oil wash out in just a few flushes, so it's a never ending job...but a healthy shot of Teflon grease lasts all season. Teflon grease is also good for seacocks, y-valves and anything else that needs lubrication that can survive being wet.
I guess that I have used about fifty tubes of that stuff both the white and the black and I can not see any difference between that and the 3M 5200 material. I used it on a chimney flashing repair about ten years ago and when I was on the roof this spring it was still in perfect condition. The stretch on that stuff is like a rubber band or a bungee.
My favorite non marine material in is hardware store nylon twine treated with pine tar and beeswax for marline. . The stuff that they sell is just junk tire cord cabled and tarred for the trade. It is hard to find tarred hemp marline in todays market.
The main difference between 5200 and 4200 is adhesion strength. They're both polyurethane sealant/adhesives. Check the adhesive strength of whatever sealant you're planning on using, as that will let you know whether it is a replacement for 4200 or 5200...
I got a table kinda like the one below at wally world really cheap in their camping section. The one we got was perfect for the cockpit of our H25.5 when at anchor and the tiller stowed. table top rolls up and the whole thing stows in a carrying bag taking up very little space. I tried to find it on their site, but didn't see it... don't know if they still cover it. The height and width of ours was a perfect fit.
Peggy -- you mean just drop a little gob of teflon grease into the head and pump it through?
Also, I guess what I meant was buying the TP / deodorizer at Wallyworld at a much lower price than what it would cost at a marine store...
Also, I guess what I meant was buying the TP / deodorizer at Wallyworld at a much lower price than what it would cost at a marine store...
Universal Diesel engines are the same thing as a Kobota Engine. I bought my fresh water circulation pump from Kobota for $78. I was told that it was a $250 part if I got it from Universal Marine.
Knowing information like that can save you a fortune.
Another thing is to look at places like camping world for things. I have bought flat ware and other things, like folding bikes, far cheaper than Worst Marine or even Defender.
Knowing information like that can save you a fortune.
Another thing is to look at places like camping world for things. I have bought flat ware and other things, like folding bikes, far cheaper than Worst Marine or even Defender.
Stainless Wire
When the deck on your new riding mower comes off the bracket that holds it up scalps your geass and cuts the tops of your sprinklers there is a stainless steel spring that works great for safety wiring your anchor shackles and such. I have several come on by and I'll give you one.
When the deck on your new riding mower comes off the bracket that holds it up scalps your geass and cuts the tops of your sprinklers there is a stainless steel spring that works great for safety wiring your anchor shackles and such. I have several come on by and I'll give you one.
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Carabiners
I make good use of those cheap aluminum carabiners that are stamped with "not for climbing" which I get from the Dollar Store 3/$1. I use them for fenders, camera, binnoculars, hand held compass and any other item I wish to clip to a stantion or other tether spot. They serve light duty loads very well, and I also use them to clip things in the interior so that fewer items go flying in a heel. You have to be careful though as I have had a few corode around the spring fastener but most of them still work after years of use as fender holders. The colored three in a pack seem to not corode as much as those single ones that come with some doodad/trinket attached.
I make good use of those cheap aluminum carabiners that are stamped with "not for climbing" which I get from the Dollar Store 3/$1. I use them for fenders, camera, binnoculars, hand held compass and any other item I wish to clip to a stantion or other tether spot. They serve light duty loads very well, and I also use them to clip things in the interior so that fewer items go flying in a heel. You have to be careful though as I have had a few corode around the spring fastener but most of them still work after years of use as fender holders. The colored three in a pack seem to not corode as much as those single ones that come with some doodad/trinket attached.
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