This weekend I pulled off all of the “wall paper” from the interior of my O’Day 22. It was a vinyl material that was glued on to the sides. Kind of looked like a wallpaper application. Now I need to replace it with something but I am not sure what my options are. It was discolored and yellow so I don’t regret pulling it down but I have been told that I opened a can of worms because the glue is very difficult to get off from the walls. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to remove the glue? Also, does anyone have a suggestion as to what to replace it with? I would like to keep cost down and would even be happy if I just replaced it with the same kind of vinyl material, where would I find this stuff? Has anyone tried anything different? Thanks, Steve Carlton SCarlton@herigagerealty.com
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Monkey Fur
Use monkey fur on the bulkheads(hull). That is the affectionate name that we use to refer to the loose-woven, furry cloth that is used to line the exposed, inside hull in the berths and salon. Use a 3M spray adhesive (with plenty of ventilation) to tack it up. After doing a paper template of the area that is being done, cut out the fiber into the shape of the area. My friend did it in his O'Day. I can't rightly say where to buy it, but ask around the marina or the yard personnel and they should know.
Use monkey fur on the bulkheads(hull). That is the affectionate name that we use to refer to the loose-woven, furry cloth that is used to line the exposed, inside hull in the berths and salon. Use a 3M spray adhesive (with plenty of ventilation) to tack it up. After doing a paper template of the area that is being done, cut out the fiber into the shape of the area. My friend did it in his O'Day. I can't rightly say where to buy it, but ask around the marina or the yard personnel and they should know.
Its murder (backwards)
Actually you can get foam-backed hull liner from Redrum or other marine sources. WM should have a notebook with samples under their counter somewhere. Another alternative is marine (or other moisture resistant) carpet with the marine carpet glue.
Actually you can get foam-backed hull liner from Redrum or other marine sources. WM should have a notebook with samples under their counter somewhere. Another alternative is marine (or other moisture resistant) carpet with the marine carpet glue.
Don Casey's Book
Don Casey wrote a book, 100 Inexpensive Upgrades to Your Boat (or something like that). In it, he details how to put in a ceiling (on a boat, that's the "false side" on the hull, not the overhead) using small strip planking. That's what I plan on doing on my O'Day 25. It was supposed to be a late winter project, but looks like I missed that deadline. So, now it's a "soon, very soon" project.
Don Casey wrote a book, 100 Inexpensive Upgrades to Your Boat (or something like that). In it, he details how to put in a ceiling (on a boat, that's the "false side" on the hull, not the overhead) using small strip planking. That's what I plan on doing on my O'Day 25. It was supposed to be a late winter project, but looks like I missed that deadline. So, now it's a "soon, very soon" project.
Why re-create the nightmare?
My boat had the foam-backed stuff put on at the factory, which as I understand it, is actually headliner material rather than hull liner material, and it has been a nightmare to remove just to get at the adhesive layer, which is even more of a nightmare. The foam is a mildew breedery that you can't clean once it gets in there--why ever put anyone through that again? I plan to paint the raw hull with a nice white 2-part epoxy and attach the carpet pieces with teak strips, velcro, and snaps so they can be removed for cleaning or replacement and there will be an acceptably attractive white hull visible while it's off. The planking is a nice idea and I have 2 suggestions on that: the interlocking cedar planks they sell in hardware stores for lining closets would make a nice-looking, great-smelling, and cheap alternative to teak and it may be possible to use the new "Scunci" steam cleaning appliances to steam-bend pieces (though I haven't tried it yet for this purpose).
My boat had the foam-backed stuff put on at the factory, which as I understand it, is actually headliner material rather than hull liner material, and it has been a nightmare to remove just to get at the adhesive layer, which is even more of a nightmare. The foam is a mildew breedery that you can't clean once it gets in there--why ever put anyone through that again? I plan to paint the raw hull with a nice white 2-part epoxy and attach the carpet pieces with teak strips, velcro, and snaps so they can be removed for cleaning or replacement and there will be an acceptably attractive white hull visible while it's off. The planking is a nice idea and I have 2 suggestions on that: the interlocking cedar planks they sell in hardware stores for lining closets would make a nice-looking, great-smelling, and cheap alternative to teak and it may be possible to use the new "Scunci" steam cleaning appliances to steam-bend pieces (though I haven't tried it yet for this purpose).
Sealants?
I am undergoing a similar project on my O'Day Mariner. I had to peel two layers. The first was a layer of indoor/outdoor fabric, the second, factory vinyl. Talk about nasty! Fortunately the vinyl peeled off easily, but now I'm left with a lot of glue residue. I'd like to paint the inside of the hull so I can hose it out when I want and not have to worry about mildew growing between the hull and the liner. So far I have tried using 60 grit on a random orbit sander to no avail. The sander builds up heat and the glue gets gummy and smears all over the inside of the hull. Next I tried MEK and acetone but even with a respirator and a box fan I felt like I was sitting inside of a time bomb waiting to go off. The progress wasn't coming fast enough to risk personal injury. So now I'm looking at sealing the glue and painting over the sealant. The fiberglass on the inside of the hull is unfinished and shows the weave of the cloth. Can anyone think of a good thick sealant that will provide the best results?
I am undergoing a similar project on my O'Day Mariner. I had to peel two layers. The first was a layer of indoor/outdoor fabric, the second, factory vinyl. Talk about nasty! Fortunately the vinyl peeled off easily, but now I'm left with a lot of glue residue. I'd like to paint the inside of the hull so I can hose it out when I want and not have to worry about mildew growing between the hull and the liner. So far I have tried using 60 grit on a random orbit sander to no avail. The sander builds up heat and the glue gets gummy and smears all over the inside of the hull. Next I tried MEK and acetone but even with a respirator and a box fan I felt like I was sitting inside of a time bomb waiting to go off. The progress wasn't coming fast enough to risk personal injury. So now I'm looking at sealing the glue and painting over the sealant. The fiberglass on the inside of the hull is unfinished and shows the weave of the cloth. Can anyone think of a good thick sealant that will provide the best results?
Oh god - I really opened a can of worms...
Maybe I might just be best off screwing in a marine carpet with the wood trim at the top and using an adhisive over the glue. Maybe it won't be perfect but 8 hrs of chemicals will reverse the theripudic effect of sailing. Has anyone done this?
Maybe I might just be best off screwing in a marine carpet with the wood trim at the top and using an adhisive over the glue. Maybe it won't be perfect but 8 hrs of chemicals will reverse the theripudic effect of sailing. Has anyone done this?
how about west systems epoxy?
this might seal everything good enough to give you a clean surface to start working with. i dunno...never tried it myself.
this might seal everything good enough to give you a clean surface to start working with. i dunno...never tried it myself.
What I did
A few years ago I pulled the vinyl wall paper off a 1976 Oday 20, because there was mold behind the paper. I was surprised to find that the glue was still sticky in places. Acetone removed some of the glue, smeared the remainder around, and dried it out enough to paint over. I chose to paint, because I was interested in eliminating boat odor, and didn't want porous materials in the boat. Some of the lengths I went to in order to get the odor out are listed in a previous post of mine on boat odor. I just bought a 1978 Tanzer 26 and am now killing mold with a 2000 mg/hr ozone generator that I made for $35, rather than going through the trouble I did with the Oday 20. I'd love to tell you how to make a generator, but I'm afraid that someone's family would sue me after they electrocuted themselves. I was told, BTW, that half (HALF!) of a new private airplane's cost merely covers product liability. Ads by the litigation lawyers (we used to call them ambulance chasers) are now on the outside front and back covers on my phone book. In order to not breathe the acetone, I used a dive mask with snorkel extended out the hatch by a virgin bilge pump hose. Breathe in through the hose -- out through the mask -- so as not to merely breathe your own CO2.
A few years ago I pulled the vinyl wall paper off a 1976 Oday 20, because there was mold behind the paper. I was surprised to find that the glue was still sticky in places. Acetone removed some of the glue, smeared the remainder around, and dried it out enough to paint over. I chose to paint, because I was interested in eliminating boat odor, and didn't want porous materials in the boat. Some of the lengths I went to in order to get the odor out are listed in a previous post of mine on boat odor. I just bought a 1978 Tanzer 26 and am now killing mold with a 2000 mg/hr ozone generator that I made for $35, rather than going through the trouble I did with the Oday 20. I'd love to tell you how to make a generator, but I'm afraid that someone's family would sue me after they electrocuted themselves. I was told, BTW, that half (HALF!) of a new private airplane's cost merely covers product liability. Ads by the litigation lawyers (we used to call them ambulance chasers) are now on the outside front and back covers on my phone book. In order to not breathe the acetone, I used a dive mask with snorkel extended out the hatch by a virgin bilge pump hose. Breathe in through the hose -- out through the mask -- so as not to merely breathe your own CO2.
Gel-coat??
Would using a gel-coat work if I applied it after using the acetone? This sounds like it could be my best option. Even if I don’t have a perfectly smooth sides I will at least have a clean look.
Would using a gel-coat work if I applied it after using the acetone? This sounds like it could be my best option. Even if I don’t have a perfectly smooth sides I will at least have a clean look.
Consider epoxy paint
Steve, I think in this application using a hard epoxy paint rather than trying to gelcoat the interior hull is going to be a simpler, cleaner, cheaper way to go. My favorite is the 2-part white from the POR-15 ("Whitecote"), but they also make a variety of one-part colors (see link below): http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=233 http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=359
Steve, I think in this application using a hard epoxy paint rather than trying to gelcoat the interior hull is going to be a simpler, cleaner, cheaper way to go. My favorite is the 2-part white from the POR-15 ("Whitecote"), but they also make a variety of one-part colors (see link below): http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=233 http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=359
Did you try gel stripper?
don't breath the fumes! Ventilate with a fan? Do it a little at a time? Ever heard of MEK?
don't breath the fumes! Ventilate with a fan? Do it a little at a time? Ever heard of MEK?
no gel coat
The beautiful gel coat you see on the inside of boats was sprayed on the mold for the fiberglass liner, before the rest of the liner was laid up. You can't get this by "painting" it on yourself. You don't even have a liner -- just the inside of the hull. If painting this won't make it pretty enough, you'll need to get some kind of liner.
The beautiful gel coat you see on the inside of boats was sprayed on the mold for the fiberglass liner, before the rest of the liner was laid up. You can't get this by "painting" it on yourself. You don't even have a liner -- just the inside of the hull. If painting this won't make it pretty enough, you'll need to get some kind of liner.
Gel-coat??
I have allot of experience working with gel-coat from when I was a commercial fisherman. We put it on everyting because it was so tough. I know what the sides would look like with it as well but I don't know how well it would stick to some left over glue residue rubbed down with acetone. I am almost done with cutting all the mahog for the inside but want take care of the sides before I even think about putting the wood in the boat. I also think getting the glue residue off will be a royal mess. A rough gel-coat won't bother me even if I can see the fiberglass pattern in it. As long as it is clean I am happy. If it is flaking off it will really undermind all the work I put into the boat. I want the easiest solution... don't we all?
I have allot of experience working with gel-coat from when I was a commercial fisherman. We put it on everyting because it was so tough. I know what the sides would look like with it as well but I don't know how well it would stick to some left over glue residue rubbed down with acetone. I am almost done with cutting all the mahog for the inside but want take care of the sides before I even think about putting the wood in the boat. I also think getting the glue residue off will be a royal mess. A rough gel-coat won't bother me even if I can see the fiberglass pattern in it. As long as it is clean I am happy. If it is flaking off it will really undermind all the work I put into the boat. I want the easiest solution... don't we all?
Steve, Have you or anyone else thought of cork ?
I had posted about replacing my cabin liner with wood. I am considering Cork Board for the sides and maybe the ceiling instead of wood. The rolls come in 1/16 to 1/14. Easy to form on the contours with contact cement. I'm going to test 1/16 on the front berth area. It may become a mildew farm. Anyone ever try this. Thanks, Mark
I had posted about replacing my cabin liner with wood. I am considering Cork Board for the sides and maybe the ceiling instead of wood. The rolls come in 1/16 to 1/14. Easy to form on the contours with contact cement. I'm going to test 1/16 on the front berth area. It may become a mildew farm. Anyone ever try this. Thanks, Mark
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