Newport 28 mk2 battery condition indicator

[adamv]

Hi, I recently bought an '84 28 mk2 and trying to figure some basic things out as the survey highlighted some issues with the exterior lights the insurance company wants fixed.

Firstly the anchor, steaming and spreader lights were noted as non functioning. As these all run through the mast I was wondering what checks I can do from the deck which might indicate wiring or bulbs being the source? Is there any access to the wiring from inside the cabin for instance? I'd rather not take the mast down or climb!

Secondly the owners manual mentions (without illustration or location) the battery condition indicator. I've not been able to locate this. Any idea where this is?
Many thanks in advance!

 

[Davidasailor26]

Secondly the owners manual mentions (without illustration or location) the battery condition indicator. I've not been able to locate this. Any idea where this is?
Many thanks in advance!

Some older boats had an analog volt meter on the DC panel. It could give a very rough idea of battery health. There are better solutions for battery monitoring now, anything from digital volt meters to shunt based state of charge monitors.

 

[adamv]

Some older boats had an analog volt meter on the DC panel. It could give a very rough idea of battery health. There are better solutions for battery monitoring now, anything from digital volt meters to shunt based state of charge monitors.

Thanks Davidsailor26, the DC panel youre referring to - is this the same as the switch panel adjacent to the companionway or within the battery compartment underneath, in my case the port settee? (or somewhere else!)
Many thanks

 

[jssailem]

Hello Adam. Welcome to the SBO forums.
Congrats on your new to you boat.
While it is natural to seek insight from other boat owners of the same brand and model you will soon learn that the systems on your boat are similar and sometimes identical to boats of other builders.

For example the non working lights on your mast very likely came from one of 3 manufactures who were busy in California during the 80's when your boat was launched. The choice of a part often was based on the cost to the builder. It is not unusual for these to fail. There are some common failure modes. Most often was a burned out light bulb, corrosion of the bulb holder, or the wiring connections. All of these are where the light is located, (Bad News - sorry) At the top of the mast. This requires either scaling the mast, sending a repair person up the mast, or bringing the mast down to the level of us mortals and working on it. While the cost of the latter might seem expensive, it is the best way to accomplish the task on a mature boat with more than a single electrical fixture needing to be serviced.

Before you select the option you will want to assure that electricity is getting to the wires in the mast. A look at your mast could provide information. This is where a picture of your mast base would help. Wires in the mast are either pushed up into the mast through the deck (this requires lifting the mast to get at the wires or in some cases a panel on the side of the mast may give you access), or connected to a plug by the mast base then the wire bundle goes into the mast.

Take some pictures of your mast base and the panel by the companion way you mention. Attach them to your post. This will give some of us boaters a better chance at providing you with ideas to resolve you challenges.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Thanks Davidsailor26, the DC panel youre referring to - is this the same as the switch panel adjacent to the companionway or within the battery compartment underneath, in my case the port settee? (or somewhere else!)
Many thanks

The ones I’ve seen are usually on the switch panel, but I don’t know for sure where Newport put theirs.

 

[Tally Ho]

I installed an inexpensive battery monitor from Renogy (let the flaming begin). For my primarily day sailing use, I find it sufficient and helps me see battery input and output, amp hours remaining, etc.

There are many much more expensive monitors, but for my needs this unit seems to work fine.



Greg

 

[jssailem]

let the flaming begin

OH Greg, we are not so inclined. You found a tool that would serve a purpose at a price you liked. Seems like a good idea to me.

Some choose to buy expensive tools from name brand stores then take them to a boat and promptly donate them to Neptune. Thus the boat sits at the dock awaiting a solution. But the Cruising kitty is empty.

Lets us celebrate the careful application of good sense to the boat needs and give you a "Seal of Approval"

 

[BarryL]

Hello,

I owned a 1986 N28 from 2004 to 2007. It's a fun little boat. Congratulations and I hope you enjoy the boat.

Anyway the mast is deck stepped. The wires for the mast are connected to a plug. You can disconnect and use a meter to see if the plug has power. That's where I would start. Next I would use the meter to check resistance in the wires in the mast. That should tell you if the wires or broken or the bulbs are broken.

PS - I have electronic copies of the N28 sales brochure. Let me know if you want it.

Barry

 

[adamv]

Thanks Jssailem, Barry and Tally Ho for the warm welcome, advice and kind offer! I'll head down to the boat later with a multi meter and my phone to take some pics. I'd like to upgrade to LED lighting at some point but do have 30 days to get proof that the lights are functional to the insurance company. (Im of course hopeful to find the source at the mast wiring connection to buy me some time).
I could use prussics to get to the steaming light but not sure i trust the boat just yet to be all the way to the anchor light so may just take the plunge, get some more expert friends over to lower the mast. Sounds like its time consuming but my guess is i'll learn a lot by taking the time to do this anyway
On the subject of the BCI ive ordered a BM2 as installation is a 30 second job but I do like the idea of having a panel i can glance at rather than using an app so may look at the Renogy solution down the line.
I assume since selecting battery 1 or both places them in parallel I would only be able to test the voltage of the starter battery, or the voltage of the starter as well as the house batteries depending on whether the 1 or 2 setting is set?
Thanks again!

 

[BarryL]

Hello Again,

Just some additional information.
For insurance, you can buy some cheap battery powered nav lights. Yes you should have the real ones working, but if it's doing to be difficult, battery powered portable lights do meet coast guard requirements.

For a battery meter, one very simple thing you can do is use a 12V cig lighter adapter with meter. like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Palumma-Charger-Adapter-Display-Battery/dp/B0773BYS6P/ref=asc_df_B0773BYS6P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309821163350&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6862483625345611564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004539&hvtargid=pla-571877554217&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=57207177050&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309821163350&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6862483625345611564&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004539&hvtargid=pla-571877554217

Lastly, on my N28 the battery switch was original and standard 1 2 both off type. Selecting 1 meant all loads drew from bat 1 and when the engine was running only bat 1 got charged. Same if I set the switch to 2, or both. So yes you can measure the battery you want by selecting the battery you want. Since these boats are now old and you don't know what the previous owner has done, you will need to trace the lines and / or measure at each battery to know what the switch is doing.

Set the switch to 1, start the engine. Measure voltage a bat 1 and at bat 2. If bat 1 is over 12V, like 13+ then its' being charged by the alternator. Measure bat 2. If it's under 12.7 then it's not being charged by the alt. Switch to bat 2 (the switch is make before break) and repeat. Finally switch to both and measure again. Now you'll know if you have a combiner, isolater, etc.

Barry

 

[adamv]

Thanks again Barry, very helpful! I'll looking to battery powered lights. Seems a useful backup.
I just paddled down to the boat with my multi meter. I needn't had bothered with the multi meter - not sure who did the wiring, but they cant have done much training!

I unraveled the tape to find the stripped wires corroded off!

Looks like I need to get some proper marine crimps and then try to figure out what goes where. Perhaps there are two spreader lights that were once connected to the incoming purple charge? I didn't pull it too much but I suspect the detached green wire is the outgoing feed to the anchor light. The access is extremely tight - hoping I've not lost the incoming feed from the anchor light through the gap to the cabin!

I also assume there should be some sort of bung over the access port to prevent ingress?
Many thanks!

 

[Tally Ho]

OH Greg, we are not so inclined. You found a tool that would serve a purpose at a price you liked. Seems like a good idea to me.

Some choose to buy expensive tools from name brand stores then take them to a boat and promptly donate them to Neptune. Thus the boat sits at the dock awaiting a solution. But the Cruising kitty is empty.

Lets us celebrate the careful application of good sense to the boat needs and give you a "Seal of Approval"
View attachment 205439

Ok! Still not sure I will take off my asbestos underwear just yet…but thank you.

it looks nice in the new radio console I made over the winter…

 

[adamv]

Ok! Still not sure I will take off my asbestos underwear just yet…but thank you.

it looks nice in the new radio console I made over the winter…
View attachment 205460

That is quite snazzy, im jealous! If you need to fireproof your pants for that you're keeping the wrong company!

 

[Tally Ho]

That is quite snazzy, im jealous! If you need to fireproof your pants for that you're keeping the wrong company!

Some people don’t like Renogy. Maybe it is just the batteries they don’t like.

Either way, this little battery monitor with shunt seems to work for my modest use. I switched over to 2) 6-volt golf cart batteries last year and no start battery (so I do need to keep an eye on the house batteries.

On a 2-night, 3-day sailing weekend (no shore power for the time), it gave a lot of peace of mind to see what was happening with the batteries.

Your mileage may vary…


Greg