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Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
I am a goal oriented guy and this "no progress" is bugging me. I need some boat time. This project is not going as fast as I want it to. I still haven't found the time to stretch the main out and see what condition it is in. I wish the boat would fit in the garage... I have been reading a lot and those running aground stories are scaring me. I need a depth finder. Thinking about a trolling motor for power, all of the small motors are expensive and pull start. Trolling motors are easy to start, light and will push the boat just fine. I have a continuous source of free 12v automotive batteries so it is the cheaper alternative. I am not worried about ruining batteries so if I deep discharge them I'll just replace them. I also have a big (2000/4000) inverter which might be nice for fans or other equipment, if I have "extra" battery capacity. Where is the best place to add weight (batteries) for best boat performance, and what to do about venting. Auto batteries are lighter than deep cycle and should give similar performance, they just won't take as many cycles. I work with generators and the batteries get replaced every two years and a decent percentage (40%) are good. I could also use a small (honda inverter) generator to recharge if I decide to camp on the boat. These are just random thoughts as I plan my adventures. In the car world we would call this "bench racing"...I guess I'm "driveway sailing".
 
Jun 28, 2009
312
hunter 23 Lake Hefner
Trolling Motor

CC, trolling motors can work very well. They can also leave you heading for the rocks. My worst day sailing involved a trolling motor. It also involved some poor decision making on my part as well and some bad luck. Suffice it to say, when the wind is blowing and all you have is a 55lb thrust trolling motor, you won't be heading where you try to point the boat if your trying to go toward the wind. My worst day could have just been a "well there goes a day of sailing" if I had my iron genny on-board. Nothing replaces a carbon fuel engine for HP/price/convenience. Like I said earlier, trolling motors work well if its not too windy. YMMV

Brad
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Thanks for the advice. I have had some neck surgery and although I'm healed, more than just a few pulls on my 9.5 Johnson will have me in misery for days. My line of thinking was that the batteries, trolling motor, and inverter would all make a versatile system of energy for both propulsion and electric power in the boat. I think the 9.5 would be way too big for an 18.5....maybe not. I wish I could electric start it, if so I'd probably use it anyway since I already own it. I also like not having to deal with gas on the boat.
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Is the 9.5 too big? The recoil start is designed like an electric starter. It has a bendix with a pull rope around it. When you pull the rope, it raises up and engages the teeth on the flywheel. Maybe I could bolt a starter where the recoil is now and make it work. I'll be looking for a small starter with the proper tooth spacing. Going to the web to see what the motor weighs now.

I sat in the boat for about an hour tonight. Sitting there makes me at ease. (I wish it was on the water somewhere.) While sitting, I figured out what to do with my bilge pump line... I'll run it to the back to the thru hull along the top of the cabin under the cockpit seat. That way it will all be down hill. I'll terminate it right as it exits the under side of the cockpit into the cabin. If I need the manual or electric pump, Ill just connect the out put of the pump to my thru hull line, do my pumping and then stow the pump. A valve (PVC?) near the top will keep it sealed when not in use. Maybe a couple of quick connect water hose fittings...they seal when disconnected. It will be nearly invisible, but handy if ever needed. If the thru hull is under water, I might be able to pump fresh water back thru it for boat wash down or whatever I might need it for. The boat allows my mind to work. Looking forward to some better weather. Ladder still needs sealing and then keel grinding, fairing, and bottom painting. Then every thing topside gets re-bedded. Right now, I am the Ultimate "trailer sailor".
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Mid 70s Johnson 2 stroke weighs 60 pounds as best I can tell. I am sure i won't use it all, but that seems pretty light.....and i already own it.

edit: a 4 hp 4 stroke tohatsu weighs 58 pounds...maybe a tune up is in order on the old 9.5....
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
No motor yet, but I got the ladder re-bedded, along with the scupper drain, started plumbing my bilge pump. Man, it seems to take forever, I wish I'd started earlier...like 20 years ago. Its a long belly crawl to the back of that boat. I am still getting a little water every day. I think the foam block may be saturated and draining slowly. Its a 60% chance of rain tomorrow, If it rains and leaks worse, I'll have a new clue. Every thing from the rub rail down is re-bedded. Still need to grind,fair, seal the keel, then paint the bottom. I need better weather for that. Still having fun.
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
GREAT day today. It rained all day. When I got home, there was a little water in the bottom. I started taking the rub rail off on the back of the boat. There was a LOT of water running behind the rail. Wherever there was an obstruction behind the rail, dirt, mold or whatever it was, it would dam up the water and cause it to run over the hull/deck joint. It is still raining a little, I fully expect the boat to be dry tomorrow since I went ahead and removed the rub rail all the way around. There is no caulk between the hull/deck joint as far as I can tell and certainly none in the rear. I will clean both sides of the joint tomorrow while I figure out what to seal it with. (Suggestions appreciated) There were lots (~10) screw holes under the rubber strip where it appears the installer (factory?) tried to start a screw and then moved over an inch or so and installed the screw. I'll seal all those "oopsies" with 4200 before I re-install the rub rail. It seems to me that I could dremel a little clearance hole every so often on the bottom side of the rub rail to allow water to drain from between the rub rail and the hull/deck joint. Good idea? I bet it will be tough to get that plastic rub strip back into the rail as cold as it is. Overall though, I am excited to find the problem, and can't wait to get after it.
 
Jun 28, 2009
312
hunter 23 Lake Hefner
Hull - deck joint problems? Seepage through screws? Look at Mark Major's profile under Hunter 23 mods and see how far you can go :D. He totally refit his boat and did a bang up job. IMHO.
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Excellent. Mine is similar, but no rotten wood on the sides. All the water was running to the rear of the boat where there is no wood. Very nice to see pictures of his work though, it gives me a little clue of how mine is built. Clean up tonight, wait for warmer weather, reseal and re-assemble. Dry boat...cool.
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Great news. I got home tonight and boat was dry. It rained and drizzled during the night. Removing the rub rail seems to have done the trick. Rather than scrub it with degreaser and a brush, I cleaned it up with a new wire brush. I loosened all the screws that join the deck to the hull, and pried the gap open with a putty knife while I brushed. There were places that had some kind of sealer, but it didn't seem like much. I then went around with the putty knife again spreading the joint and injecting 3M 4200. I did one side at a time. When I finished caulking, I re-tightened all the deck/hull screws which pushed out some of the sealer. I cleaned it up and made a nice looking caulk joint with my finger. Then I re-attached the rub rail because I wanted to make sure there were no caulk bulges that would make the rub rail wavy. It looks great and is mostly back together. I ran out of time and didn't get the plastic rub strip back in and will likely struggle with it because it is old and hard. The cool weather probably adds to the difficulty. I worked at a car lot 25 years ago and the guy that installed body side moulding would heat it up coiled up in a large bucket of hot water and when the plastic was warm it would pop right in. Ice and snow predicted for the weekend so I am glad I got it sort of finished today. I may take the water hose to it tomorrow and make some rain. It is supposed to be 52 here tomorrow and will be a good day to play in the water.
 
Apr 3, 2010
33
Beneteau 411 Celebration and 260 Shotley and Punta Gorda
Hi Newbie have just caught up with your project, you mentioned a portable heater. A word of caution at the risk of stating the obvious; make sure you have proper ventilation if you are working in the boat with a heater, carbon monoxide dose no,and t take prisoners. . You would be advised to unfurl that Jib if you are going to be a while before you use it, it is liable to chaffe as it is. Good luck with your project.
Epsilon Blue
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Thanks for the advice. I want to step the mast, just too many other things going on right now. Heater is electric....I have the boat backed up to my garage so I have easy access to tools, power, and lights.
 
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