Newbie

[CCrane2299]

Newbie learns to fix a boat

Hi all, newbie reporting in for whatever lays in store for me. My experience is as follows. Lots of sunfish time as a teen. I live on a small lake and we sailed it all summer. Last summer, I got the bug for what I thought was a big boat...17' venture. I got it up and sailing and I think I did well with it but did make a boo boo or two. It did not fit what i thought I wanted a boat to do. The cabin was little more than a storage bin.Now, I find myself with a 1988 hunter wing keel in pretty good shape. It has a much better cabin, I can see myself over-nighting in it. It needs some bottom paint (good grief I wish you guys could come up with an easy answer for that one.) I have a few things to reseal...the rudder mounts leak, there is a 3/4 inch hole in the rear of the boat and I have no idea why, extra holes in the transom need filled, and the keel needs some cleaning and painting. I'll link some pics so you can help me out if you are inclined. It will be primarily in fresh water although I'd like to take it to the bay at Panama City FL. I have some friends with a house there so I'd have a temp home base. It will likely be on a trailer a lot, but there is a slip available in a local fresh water marina about an hour away in Guntersville AL. Thanks in advance. Chris

first "big" lol boat

 

[Ed Schenck]

Sweet boat. Trailer looks light for very much long distance work. Maybe its fine but I am comparing it to my old Catalina 22 trailer which was much beefier.

I guess that is the jib that we see meaning it has a furler which is a nice feature. It would be good to see a picture of your transom to understand the holes. One or two drain holes would not be uncommon in a boat that size.

 

[JVB]

In your pictures the Hunter looks like a swing keel, not a wing keel which has an inverted T shape. What model is it ?

Get at least a handheld unit if you don't have a VHF radio. In my opinion a VHF follows only life jackets and common sense on a personal safety items list.

The simplest fix for bottom paint is an ablative anti-fouling paint applied with a roller or brush after pressure washing and scrubbing the bottom with a stiff brush. I selected Interlux Micron CSC Antifouling Ablative Bottom Paint from www.defender.com for my fresh water docked boat. A gallon will give you between one and two coats. I put a coat of red then a coat of black (Item # : 752823) on my 25 footer two years ago. No red is showing yet. Use a very soft brush to gently clean any green slime off once in awhile if you race the boat. For longest life don't touch it.

The pictures don't show the Hunter's sails. If they are dirty and limp but not Sun weakened they might benefit from going to Sail Care for cleaning and reconditioning. It's unfortunate that you can't make the December 15 deadline for a discount. http://www.sailcare.com/

You should have an anchor and 200 feet of anchor rope (rode). You may need it one day to keep you off the rocky shores that are plentiful on Guntersville Lake. (I used to water ski and fly a ski kite there.)

Spring and Autumn will likely provide the best sailing conditions at Guntersvillle. I remember nearly flat calm conditions there at sunset in the Summer. (That's what is required to fly a ski kite.) As a former sailor in the Galveston Bay, TX area I expect that Summer sailing near Panama City will make Lake Guntersville with its surrounding high terrain look like a third rate place to sail by comparison.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Think you are looking at the wrong boat 'JV'. The Hunter is definitely a wing keel. It is the Venture with the stained sails and swing keel.

 

[JVB]

You are right. On closer inspection I see the wing in the first two pictures.

 

[CCrane2299]

That was my fault, I wanted to show where I came from (Venture) to the Hunter.

I haven't even had time to unfurl the sails on the Hunter. The PO told me the jib was new and the main good. Jib has a roller and the main is supposed to be reefing. Since my other boat had neither, I have a little learning to do. I understand how they work and when to use them, but knowing and doing are often different. All this Christmas stuff and the cold weather has made it difficult to "go out and play". I bought some 3M-5200 today to rebed the rudder mounts and seal some holes left in the stern by the previous owner. You can see a 5/8 hole near the bottom on the transom, and a 5/16 bolt hole just right of the engine mount. If anybody knows why I shouldn't plug the 5/8 hole, speak now or its getting sealed. I did put a portable heater in it last night and clean a little on the inside. It is so much nicer than the venture. I noticed the plywood (inside the boat) that reinforces the rudder mounts has deformed. I am thinking about taking the plywood out and getting an aluminum plate bigger than the four hole pattern on both mounts...about 18"x10" or so. My thought was to 5200 it to the transom after removing the old plywood, and then rebed the rudder mounts. Now if I could talk Santa into a new outboard motor...

 

[CCrane2299]

Get at least a handheld unit if you don't have a VHF radio. In my opinion a VHF follows only life jackets and common sense on a personal safety items list.

You should have an anchor and 200 feet of anchor rope (rode). You may need it one day to keep you off the rocky shores that are plentiful on Guntersville Lake. (I used to water ski and fly a ski kite there.)

I expect that Summer sailing near Panama City will make Lake Guntersville with its surrounding high terrain look like a third rate place to sail by comparison.

I have a good GPS that is waterproof, I really need to look at radios.

I saw an anchor in one of the compartments with a short piece of chain and some rope. I haven't verified the length or quality of the rope. Its on my ever increasing checklist.

We fished in the bay at PC last year and the wind blew all day and night. There was a group of catamarans racing and it looked like a lot of fun. I haven't really thought about racing, but as someone once said....the first automobile race occurred when the second one was built. I have raced things with engines all my life. Even though I bought this thing to relax on, I'll probably not be able to resist the challenge. I live on a small lake (160 acres) and the wind absolutely dies late afternoon in the summertime.

 

[isaksp00]

The transom isn't stock for the H23 - the motor mount box that sticks out, at a reverse angle to the actual transom, is probably a customization (at least, my '91 lacks that - it just has a transom all the way across).

I can't see the holes clearly - a close-in shot of just the transom would help. You obviously shouldn't have any holes below or near the water line. If there is one above, it may possibly be for leading a cable in from the outboard, in case you have (or will get) one that has a DC output to charge the battery. I do have such a hole, for that cable, which is covered by a stainless steel "hood".

I'd be inclined to plug any holes with epoxy, possibly with fairing compound added, but it is probably too cold for that now. I am not familiar with 3M-5200 as a structural gap filler.

If your iron keel is badly rusted, or scaly, plan on a lot of elbow grease, using either a sandblaster (good luck finding one) or an angle grinder and coarse wire brush (the less expensive, but more laborious, approach). Don't waste your time with a drill and wire brush - you'll need an angle grinder, which are maybe $30 or 35, and maybe another 20 or 30 in wire brushes, a grinding wheel, etc. Not easy to get under there - you have to more or less worm in past the trailer, and sit on the ground under the keel area.

I redid all the wiring connectors on mine, specifically the nav lights. Hook up a 12V battery to the wire leading up the mast before you step it, and check the bulb. It is easy to clean the anchor light fitting, maybe put in a new bulb, on the hard; also for the running lights. Check the fitting on the deck for the anchor light for 12V after the battery is back in the boat.

 

[RobertG-NJ]

RE: Newbie H23

CCrane2299

I have a 1988 H23 also. That boat looks like it has been extensively reworked. As isaksp00 has pointed out, that is not the stock transom as it came from Hunter. Most motor mounts I have seen are on port side as is mine so that might account for extra holes but with the rework done on might have expected those to have been fixed as well.

It is hard to tell but it also appears there are no side decks and the cabin sides have been extended to the (former?) toe rail above the hull joint. Can't see where the stock fairleads were mounted. It looks real nice though like the later model Hunters. would love to see a top view.

There seem to be hinges for lazerette hatches installed on the starboard cockpit seat area. Also not stock arrangement, which is on the port side.

The trailer is not stock, there should be a C channel section midline between the two cross members (covered with plywood) that the keel rests on.

As to the keel, I second everything isaksp00 said. Cant tell from the photo. Take a good look at it. It may be paint over a layer of corroded scale. If you plan to repair it, when it is rust free, paint it immediately with a metal protectant paint and then coat it with epoxy. Fair it with epoxy & fairing additive. A final barrier coat would also be a good idea before the antifouling.

Good luck

 

[isaksp00]

Re: Newbie H23

You have a good eye, Robert (G).

I wonder if that is an H23 at all? It does look like it lacks side decks, and that the lazarette is on the stbd side (I don't see any hinges or seams on the port side).

What is the HIN? Maybe you can look it up and get the exact model. If it is a 23, it is hard to imagine modifying the cabin to make it that much wider.

Where are the lifeline stanchions?

Peter

 

[MrUnix]

The transom isn't stock for the H23

Maybe because it's a Hunter 18.5 (circa 1980's), not a H23

And at a dry weight of 1600lbs, the trailer should be more than sufficient to tow a boat of that size. I've never seen the 18.5 in person, but I did own a V17 for many years until Hurricane Andrew decided to dance it around my back yard and land it upside down on the kids swing set. But based on the pictures and specs, the 18.5 does look like a good upgrade from the V17. At least you no longer have to worry about maintaining the swing keel/winch.. and the interior looks to be laid out much nicer than the Venture was and you now have some cockpit lockers thrown in for good measure :dance:

I also agree that the holes should probably be plugged with epoxy, not 5200. Backing plate for the rudder should be fixed proper.. if that means yanking the wood and replacing with metal, so be it. Take pictures as you go along and post 'em here for us to enjoy!

Cheers,
Brad

 

[CCrane2299]

Thanks for the suggestions. I should have mentioned that it is the 18.5. The cabin is much wider at the top so it feels gigantic after the v-17. I always felt like the venture's cabin was just a place to stow things. The Hunter feels like I could sleep there. I made new plywood covers for all the compartments tonight. After I finished I put all the cushions back and tried to hear the water splashing on the hull....while it was on the trailer in the yard.

The hole at the waterline is barely visible in the first picture at the bottom paint line just right of the rudder mount. I read a post where someone here bought a kitchen sink sprayer block off and plugged a similar hole. I bought one and test fit it tonight and it looks great. It is plastic, but it appears to have a stainless cap on it. The other extra holes are where another type of motor mount was located. I will just put some stainless screws through them with some sealant.

I looked at the keel good tonight and I have an angle grinder with a good twisted wire wheel. Looks like it going to get a workout. I think it will look nice when I finish. I intend to grind it to the bare metal, fill the gaps, then seal and paint it. Then I'll bottom paint the whole bottom including the keel. It definitely has ablative paint on it now, it rubs off easily.

Maybe this weekend I can move it and step the mast. I can't wait to see it set up. I was thinking after Santa leaves, maybe I could spring for some LED lights all around. The wiring looks like lamp cord everywhere...two stranded white wire. I may rewire if it looks suspect as I get into it. LEDs sure would make a battery last longer. I have a friend who owns a camper store and he gave me a double interior light. It has two bulbs and you can turn one or both on depending how you switch it. I thought about a low wattage bulb in one side and the normal bulb on the other.

I made a list two days ago of things to do. I have done several things, but none were the ones I had written down. I am excited to have a good project. It looks like it will be a very nice boat when I am finished.

 

[CCrane2299]

This picture is one sent to me during my negotiations to buy the boat...you can see the motor mount holes, but strangely the big hole (not the cockpit drain), at the water line on the right of the rudder, is not there...weird. I wonder if he added a bilge pump and that was the exit hole? Then removed it before he sold it to me.

 

[Honeyman]

Great little boat for what you want to do with it and from "where you come", boat wise. As to your bottom paint question, it ain't cheap, but will last a long time fresh/salt combination, I'd go with Petit Trinidad. Its a modified epoxy that dries fairly smooth and will hold up very well if you prep the bottom right. Do it right, apply 2-3 coats everywhere with extra coat around waterline and it should last you 5-8 years! Shop it on internet for best price. St. Andrew Bay is a blast with trailer launch at least 3 places. 1) West side of the Bay Bridge on Hwy 98. 2) St. Andrew State Park at the far eastern end of Thomas Dr. 3) Near downtown at St. Andrew Marina, forget the street. Cool thing about the bay is its shape that allows you to pick most any direction depending on the wind. Anchor out behind Shell Island in crystal clear water, dolphins swim along with your boat while underway...doesn't get much better for boating.

 

[isaksp00]

If it is that small hole in the picture at the top, looks about 1/4 diam, it'd be awfully small for a bilge pump exit, and it'd be odd to exit it at the waterline (I wouldn't). What's on the back? Is it just a hole, or is there a fitting? Unless you find some obvious use (maybe ask the prev owner) I'd epoxy it. Peter

 

[CCrane2299]

The little holes near the engine mount are from where an old mount had been. I just put carriage bolts in them coated with 3m 4200. The big hole was on the right of the bottom rudder mount. The picture from the rear shows the boat with out the hole. the first pictures I posted show a hole in that location. I guess it was for a bilge pump outlet because that's what I put in there to close it off. I'll put a pump in later and run the hose up high in the boat to keep water from coming in through the hull fitting. I rebeded everything in the transom except the ladder and I intended to do that today, but things kept coming up and nothing got done. Maybe next week.

 

[isaksp00]

You probably don't need a bilge pump, as there shouldn't be any places where water would routinely be seeping in (unlike an inboard, with its prop shaft). But, if you want one, just make sure to route the hose so there are no air locks - no low places in the hose (that would let water sit, as in a P-trap under a sink) between the hose connection to the pump and where it exits the through-hull. That is, make sure the hose rises continuously with no droops to its high point then drops continuously to the exit.
Peter

 

[RobertG-NJ]

H18.5

Thanks Mr Unix. I guess I should have looked at CCrane2299's "boat" under his name. I hadn't seen a 18.5 before and the side profile resemblance is to the 23 is amazing and I am looking at your own restoration website photo of Rum Hunter as comparison. It also looks so "big" for a 18 footer. Looks like a nice boat.

 

[CCrane2299]

This holiday stuff is really hampering boat repairs. I haven't touched it in two days. I am trying to take my time and not get in a hurry, but I am so driven to complete a project once I start. I have however enjoyed reading this forum and learning. Maybe more boat fun tomorrow.

 

[CCrane2299]

Well, I tightened all the keel bolts today and found them already tight. Since I am worried about it, I took all the nuts off and verified that they were dry underneath the washers. I keep getting a little water under the floor, just barely enough to soak up with a rag. It must be draining from within the boat, although we have had light rain about every other day, so it could be from the top. All six were dry so I feel much better about it. Resealed all of them with 4200, then put some 5200 on some gelcoat cracks where the inner liner meets the hull. The 5200 flows out like paint when it is a little cool. It was probably 55-60 degrees here tonight. Still need to seal the ladder and clean up/prime/seal the keel then she's ready for bottom paint. I got some 5200 on a seat cushion...we'll see how that turns out. I've decided to let it dry and try and break it up into dust in order to get it out. That's all until I get some help to hold the nuts on the ladder bolts. I don't feel like crawling to the back with the vise grips 8 times to get them out then 8 more to go back together. My bilge pump is too big to fit under the floor so I guess I'll trade it in for a smaller one. Slow progress, but progress nonetheless.

Edit: I now understand the hate for silicone. Anything that was siliconed around was leaking. i noticed the side windows were sealed by just running a bead around the outside of the window rather than taking them out and sealing the properly. I am a big shortcut guy, but the windows not only look rough, they may be the cause of my leak. Oh, paint thinner does a fair job of removing 4200/5200 from your hands...