I recently bought a 1994 23.5 and I have a question. Is there a plug that needs to be installed prior to launching the boat? Kind of like a powerboat? I am new to the mono scene, I had a hobie cat until recently but this is another ball game. How long does it typicaly take to go from trailer to sailing? As of now I am totally lost on how to rig this boat so I will have plenty of questions in the near future. Thanks in advance.
Newbie with a 23.5 and questions.
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No there is no drain plug, in the cabin you lift the step on hinges ,open up the ballast tank by turning the t-screw and this allows water to enter the ballast tank, when full just tighten the t-screw and thats it , when pulling the boat out of the water open the t-screw again to release the water from the tank as you drive up the ramp with it on the trailer.
Thanks for the reply. Anyone within a couple hours of mobile al? I would love to have someone nearby I could drive to the first time I rig it.
I'm a bit out of practice but could have mine rigged in 30 minutes at one time but takes me more like 45 now. I usually do most myself at a crowded launch. If you can't find a manual, I have the one that came with mine. PM and I'll scan pages and email you a copy. It wasn't mentioned in the above post but keep the plug closed until after it's in the water. It makes it easy to get off the trailer. The plug next to the T-handle needs to be removed when filling and replaced after it's full.
For rigging, You should have an aluminum gin-pole about 5-6 feet long with a double ended lcable loop through one end. This is used on the forward side at the base of the mast. The mast is slid back and attached to the base. Mine has a 4" pin that it hinges on. The jib halyard is connected to one end of the double ended loop at the top of the gin-pole that is placed in the hole at the base of the mast. There is a cleat on the side of the mast where you tie off the jib halyard after you pull out the slack enough where the gin-pole is vertical. Attach the mainsheet block to the other end of the double loop and then to the anchor eye in the anchor box. I have to let out the mainsheet all the way to reach both ends. There should be two short metal cables each with a hook on one end and a pelican clasp on the other. The hook end goes into a reinforced opening on either side of the mast about 3 feet up or so and the other end attaches to a point on the stanchion nearest the mast. The point should be obvious. Don't attempt to raise the mast without these cables. They keep the mast from swaying side to side. I pull the mainsheet until the mast starts to come off the crutch then lower it and recleat the jib halyard on the cleat to pull out any stretch in the line. One of the worst things is when you get all the way to the top and then have no more line on the mainsheet to get it that extra 1 inch needed to lock the forestay in place. As you're lifting, watch the side stays and turnbuckles that always want to bind up on me. I will lock the mainsheet a couple of times during lifting and walk over to shake the side stays to be sure they're loose and not about to bind. A second person would make this part smoother. It's heavy at first but there's a point about 50% up that it starts to get much easier until the last couple of inches where you have tension on the side stays.
Don't forget to make sure your halyards are latched onto something and not on the wrong side of a spreader, same for the topping lift.
That's basically a synopsys of my routine but it always helps if someone is there to show you. I rigged mine the first couple of times under the guidance of the dealer. I'm sure you'll get lots of good suggestions and maybe a few shortcuts from others on this board.
For rigging, You should have an aluminum gin-pole about 5-6 feet long with a double ended lcable loop through one end. This is used on the forward side at the base of the mast. The mast is slid back and attached to the base. Mine has a 4" pin that it hinges on. The jib halyard is connected to one end of the double ended loop at the top of the gin-pole that is placed in the hole at the base of the mast. There is a cleat on the side of the mast where you tie off the jib halyard after you pull out the slack enough where the gin-pole is vertical. Attach the mainsheet block to the other end of the double loop and then to the anchor eye in the anchor box. I have to let out the mainsheet all the way to reach both ends. There should be two short metal cables each with a hook on one end and a pelican clasp on the other. The hook end goes into a reinforced opening on either side of the mast about 3 feet up or so and the other end attaches to a point on the stanchion nearest the mast. The point should be obvious. Don't attempt to raise the mast without these cables. They keep the mast from swaying side to side. I pull the mainsheet until the mast starts to come off the crutch then lower it and recleat the jib halyard on the cleat to pull out any stretch in the line. One of the worst things is when you get all the way to the top and then have no more line on the mainsheet to get it that extra 1 inch needed to lock the forestay in place. As you're lifting, watch the side stays and turnbuckles that always want to bind up on me. I will lock the mainsheet a couple of times during lifting and walk over to shake the side stays to be sure they're loose and not about to bind. A second person would make this part smoother. It's heavy at first but there's a point about 50% up that it starts to get much easier until the last couple of inches where you have tension on the side stays.
Don't forget to make sure your halyards are latched onto something and not on the wrong side of a spreader, same for the topping lift.
That's basically a synopsys of my routine but it always helps if someone is there to show you. I rigged mine the first couple of times under the guidance of the dealer. I'm sure you'll get lots of good suggestions and maybe a few shortcuts from others on this board.
You should have a line attached to the top of the mast that attaches to a line at the aft end of the boom. It's for raising the boom and keeping it from laying on the cockpit floor when the sail is down. If it's rigged like mine - 1993, there are 3 lines that protrude from the bottom of the boom at the mast end. One is this topping lift, another is the reefing line - used to help pull the sail down and secure at the reefing point. My sail also has ties that are tied around the boom when reefed. There's a hook at the mast/boom connection that an eyelet in the sail is hooked to for reefing as well. And the last line is the mainsail outhaul.
I never managed to connect the forestay unless I release thension from the outer shrouds.
Make it slowly so that you don't bend the "T" of the turnbuckles.
Make it slowly so that you don't bend the "T" of the turnbuckles.
Here's a check list and some info from the 26/260 system which is virtually the same for a 23.5, 240, 26/260. We've all learned the tricks but George wrote it up and shared it here:
http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist1/checklist1.html
The gin pole should be stainless steel not aluminum and the plug under the step is a vent so the water can displace the air when filling. Don't forget to close the valve AND the vent when it's full. As was said, watch the upper side stay connectors(T-bolts) and the lowers too. They are notorious for not setting properly as the mast is raised. STOP just before you draw up the last tension and do a visual on all the mast connectors.
Make sure that the tension on the stays are taught enough so that the downwind side never shows any slack when you're sailing. On the other hand if the stays just seem too tight look carefully for rigging that's twisted/bound up or jammed. It's a good idea to do a visual check of the key rigging connectors for corrosion/cracks/damage and replace them before they fail at the worst possible moment and wreck your day and your boat.
We had a 240 before our 260 so I've had these rigs up/down too many times but rest assured it's the simplest system around once you get the basics down and know what the snags are. Expect stuff to go wrong when you're just getting up to speed, these will be the best lessons you'll get on what needs greater attention or regular maintenance.
Have a great time, enjoy your new boat and be safe.
Mike
http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist1/checklist1.html
The gin pole should be stainless steel not aluminum and the plug under the step is a vent so the water can displace the air when filling. Don't forget to close the valve AND the vent when it's full. As was said, watch the upper side stay connectors(T-bolts) and the lowers too. They are notorious for not setting properly as the mast is raised. STOP just before you draw up the last tension and do a visual on all the mast connectors.
Make sure that the tension on the stays are taught enough so that the downwind side never shows any slack when you're sailing. On the other hand if the stays just seem too tight look carefully for rigging that's twisted/bound up or jammed. It's a good idea to do a visual check of the key rigging connectors for corrosion/cracks/damage and replace them before they fail at the worst possible moment and wreck your day and your boat.
We had a 240 before our 260 so I've had these rigs up/down too many times but rest assured it's the simplest system around once you get the basics down and know what the snags are. Expect stuff to go wrong when you're just getting up to speed, these will be the best lessons you'll get on what needs greater attention or regular maintenance.
Have a great time, enjoy your new boat and be safe.
Mike
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Everything on here is spot on for successful and fun launching.
I usually launch on my own, either singlehanding or the wife is watching the kids. I will have a long line attached to the bow and a regular length line attached to the stern on the dock side. If you keep the ballast closed during launch things go much smoother. I will back down the ramp, then d/c the hook on the bow. I will push the boat until it's almost freely floating. Then I will hold the long line while moving to the dock (that's why it's long so I never let go of the boat, never had a problem but if things went right all of the time I wouldn't have a job at the Fire Dept). I can maneuver the boat off the trailer and to the dock using the two lines then tie off. If I have help, I hold the bow line and my helper holds the stern line. It's a very good idea to make sure the centerboard control line is locked in the up position or the centerboard can hook the trailer when launching (not the end of the world, but very inconvenient). Once you are docked, open up the ballast, it should be full by the time you park the truck and are ready to sail.
Also, I use the topping lift to help attach the boom. I keep the main and boom in the cabin when trailered. My topping lift just comes from the top of the mast and clips to the end of the boom (previous owner, going to modify a bit). I will move the end of the boom to near the stairs then attach the topping lift. Now you have a second "hand" holding the boom and you can easily take the boom out and hook it and the main up without having the fight with the boom at all. Taking down is the same. I'll disconnect the main and boom, then carry the boom into the cabin with the help of the topping lift on the other end before I disconnect it.
Something else that may help your setup time, depending on where you sail. When we sail in the gulf we have a couple of miles of river channel to go through before we hit the open gulf so we'll put the mast up, launch, then do the rest on the water. The admiral will helm and I'll rig. We'll do the same coming in. Saves a ton of time at the ramp.
I usually launch on my own, either singlehanding or the wife is watching the kids. I will have a long line attached to the bow and a regular length line attached to the stern on the dock side. If you keep the ballast closed during launch things go much smoother. I will back down the ramp, then d/c the hook on the bow. I will push the boat until it's almost freely floating. Then I will hold the long line while moving to the dock (that's why it's long so I never let go of the boat, never had a problem but if things went right all of the time I wouldn't have a job at the Fire Dept). I can maneuver the boat off the trailer and to the dock using the two lines then tie off. If I have help, I hold the bow line and my helper holds the stern line. It's a very good idea to make sure the centerboard control line is locked in the up position or the centerboard can hook the trailer when launching (not the end of the world, but very inconvenient). Once you are docked, open up the ballast, it should be full by the time you park the truck and are ready to sail.
Also, I use the topping lift to help attach the boom. I keep the main and boom in the cabin when trailered. My topping lift just comes from the top of the mast and clips to the end of the boom (previous owner, going to modify a bit). I will move the end of the boom to near the stairs then attach the topping lift. Now you have a second "hand" holding the boom and you can easily take the boom out and hook it and the main up without having the fight with the boom at all. Taking down is the same. I'll disconnect the main and boom, then carry the boom into the cabin with the help of the topping lift on the other end before I disconnect it.
Something else that may help your setup time, depending on where you sail. When we sail in the gulf we have a couple of miles of river channel to go through before we hit the open gulf so we'll put the mast up, launch, then do the rest on the water. The admiral will helm and I'll rig. We'll do the same coming in. Saves a ton of time at the ramp.
Wow, so much helpful info. Thanks for everyones help, i am much more comfotable now after reading the post.
Here is a link to your owner's manual. I have an H-26, the larger sister to your H-23.5. I'm over in Pensacola and will be glad to walk you through the routine. I'm on the road a lot, but we can probably work out a day and time. BrianW
http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/Hunter19_23_26/index.html
http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/Hunter19_23_26/index.html
That sounds great, where is a good place to launch in Pensacola? Thanks for the link.
Big Lagoon State Park is excellent. It is on the Intracoastal Waterway near Perdido Key (west of Pensacola). For our "walk through", we could launch at my yacht club (Grand Lagoon Yacht Club) on Big Lagoon. Big Lagoon connects to the west end of Pensacola Bay near Pensacola Pass that goes out to the Gulf. BrianW
About the drain plug - Under the step next to the T-screw is for opening the balast tank, I have an air hole for letting air out while filling and air in while emptying the tank. My 23.5 came with a removable plug in the hole just like what a power boat might use in its drain hole. I don't know how critical it is but I keep it in when the tank is full so water cannot spill out when healing.
I also have a pdf file with a scanned 23.5 manual if you or anyone wants it. Just email me: leap(at)etown[period]edu
Good luck, Tom L
I also have a pdf file with a scanned 23.5 manual if you or anyone wants it. Just email me: leap(at)etown[period]edu
Good luck, Tom L
adding to instructions
Good description. I usually rig my gin pole so it is slightly aft of vertical; it allows more working room when you get the mast up and are trying to cinch down the forestay.
I've also used, when I get close to vertical, the trailer winch itself and tie the jibsheet to it, crank it up and this gives you less junk on the foredeck to work around the forestay.
Can't stress enough what is said here on two things: make sure your sidestays don't bind (they will bend the turnbuckle in a heartbeat and you wont be able to get the firestay connected, and, using the guys for the side of the mast; one of mine let go mid-raising and it was nearly impossible to re-right the mast without tearing the mast foot to pieces.
good luck!
Good description. I usually rig my gin pole so it is slightly aft of vertical; it allows more working room when you get the mast up and are trying to cinch down the forestay.
I've also used, when I get close to vertical, the trailer winch itself and tie the jibsheet to it, crank it up and this gives you less junk on the foredeck to work around the forestay.
Can't stress enough what is said here on two things: make sure your sidestays don't bind (they will bend the turnbuckle in a heartbeat and you wont be able to get the firestay connected, and, using the guys for the side of the mast; one of mine let go mid-raising and it was nearly impossible to re-right the mast without tearing the mast foot to pieces.
good luck!
All great advise for you. I owned my 23.5 for 17 years and had very few problems. One more suggestion is to leave the vent plug installed and the T- handle opened when pulling the boat out of the water. This prevents water from filling up the aft cabin as the angle of the boat goes up during haul out. That took me awhile to figure out where the water comes from. Happy sailing
I am loving all of the advice. I actually steped the mast this morning in my front yard. Othrr tan funny looks everything went well. Now I will do it again next weekend ab I will actually put the sails up then. I know on end of the main sheet goes to the boom end but where does the other end attach?
Sorry for the mispelled words, i hate typing on a phone.
Sorry for the mispelled words, i hate typing on a phone.
Also, the cables that are directly under the spreader on the mast are not tight. Should they be tight?
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