I am new to sailing, but really love it! Bought a very nice 2000 Hunter 290 that was almost unused, according to the survey. I have been sailing it a lot. It has one odd problem and maybe I am doing something wrong. Sometimes the start button does nothing when you push it. I replaced the entire starter panel and it worked pretty good, but not always and only a few months later is intermittent again from time to time. This is bothersome when the wind dies or when getting ready to dock. I have also noticed that one of the batteries does not hold a charge and it is the battery that is to the starboard switch position (to the right looking forward) on the START, BOTH, ?, and OFF position indicator. I know this because when I isolate it to that position and am just running the instruments and nothing else it goes dead within 20 minutes and with anything else on, it goes dead in a couple of minutes or less. So I am pretty sure I need a new battery, and am not sure which battery that one is and what to by to replace it with. I don't care that much about price, but want safety and quality more than anything. Does the starter button have anything to do with the battery/switch issue. I never use this position to start the engine because it does not start it. I use either START or BOTH. Any ideas for me? Thanks so much!! -Christopher
Newbie electrical question
- Thread starter ChristopherHurst
- Start date
For starters, you're going to want to have a digital multimeter. A basic one isn't expensive. With that you'll be able to test, at the battery terminals, which one is dead.
Next I suggest you get Nigel Calder's book Mechanical and Electrical Manual, or some equivalent to help understand your boat's electrical system.
Hopefully, you aren't leaving the switch on Both, which just sucks the juice out of your (possibly) one good batt.
Next I suggest you get Nigel Calder's book Mechanical and Electrical Manual, or some equivalent to help understand your boat's electrical system.
Hopefully, you aren't leaving the switch on Both, which just sucks the juice out of your (possibly) one good batt.
I was always running it on BOTH, but will stop doing that now. That makes sense, thanks for the advice and info!
A good rule to keep in mind is - In order to fix something you need to know how it is supposed to work in the first place.
And - there is no better way to learn about a charging/battery system than to make your own diagram of the battery distribution cables. Trace the cables - battery(s) to switch(s), switch to starter, alternator to switch or battery and so forth. To start with just concentrate on the battery, starter, alternator. cables. Then add labels - what alternator (make and capacity), what batteries (capacity amps, 12 or 6 volt) is there an isolator (make), an ACR, or EchoCharge. What shore charger is used in charging the batteries (make capacity).
As to the starter circuit - intermittent starting is not uncommon and may not have to do with the distribution cables mentioned above. Most probably there is a 'starter button' wiring fault. Check wiring battery to starter switch at the panel (and its fuse), starter switch to starter solenoid (and the connectors along the way), the starter switch itself. Also do not overlook the battery negative to the motor block cable and the connectors along the way.
The information you learn in diagramming will be helpful to you and to anyone willing to help = like the folks on this Forum. But - most important - you will learn how the system is laid out on your particular boat and thus will see how things are supposed to work to start with.
I hope this approach proves useful to you.
Charles
And - there is no better way to learn about a charging/battery system than to make your own diagram of the battery distribution cables. Trace the cables - battery(s) to switch(s), switch to starter, alternator to switch or battery and so forth. To start with just concentrate on the battery, starter, alternator. cables. Then add labels - what alternator (make and capacity), what batteries (capacity amps, 12 or 6 volt) is there an isolator (make), an ACR, or EchoCharge. What shore charger is used in charging the batteries (make capacity).
As to the starter circuit - intermittent starting is not uncommon and may not have to do with the distribution cables mentioned above. Most probably there is a 'starter button' wiring fault. Check wiring battery to starter switch at the panel (and its fuse), starter switch to starter solenoid (and the connectors along the way), the starter switch itself. Also do not overlook the battery negative to the motor block cable and the connectors along the way.
The information you learn in diagramming will be helpful to you and to anyone willing to help = like the folks on this Forum. But - most important - you will learn how the system is laid out on your particular boat and thus will see how things are supposed to work to start with.
I hope this approach proves useful to you.
Charles
Christopher, I also have a 2000 290 and I have had intermittent problems with the start button. If the battery is at peak charge it never seems to have a problem but when they are down it sometimes happens. I, too, have one battery not as healthy as the other but I have only observed this by the start problem.
Not sure this does anything for you but there it is!
Hopefully somebody will tell us how to tell how good or bad the batteries are.
Dan
Not sure this does anything for you but there it is!
Hopefully somebody will tell us how to tell how good or bad the batteries are.
Dan
As others have indicated, the start problem is often not a function of battery state of charge or health.
Something as simple as a voltmeter or hydrometer can easily pinpoint a battery issue.
The start problem is common and much discussion of how to cure that problem can be found in the archives. Suffice it to say it's a wiring/ connection/ start circuit fault.
Great Saikboat
2001 290 was my first sailboat and had a great time sailing it for
about 5 years and up graded in 07.
I would check you batteries and take both to auto zone or some place that checks batteries and check all connections and clean real good where cables
connect to and easy to get bad or loose connections.
Nick
2001 290 was my first sailboat and had a great time sailing it for
about 5 years and up graded in 07.
I would check you batteries and take both to auto zone or some place that checks batteries and check all connections and clean real good where cables
connect to and easy to get bad or loose connections.
Nick
I agree that likely the problem is a poor connection. Start by checking all connections, test the batteries, and trace your wiring. How your battery switch "should" be set is entirely dependent on how your boat is wired.
One of the best resources on boat wiring can be found on Maine Sails sub forum.
One of the best resources on boat wiring can be found on Maine Sails sub forum.
First of all take that battery to your automotive parts retail store and have it tested. From what you indicate, it is probably bad and will need replacement. Check and see what type of battery you have where, there are starting batteries and deep cycle discharge and each is different in function and characteristics. For a basic system I would recommend you install two deep cycle group 27 acid/lead batteries instead of one start and one deep cycle. The deep cycle batteries can start the small diesel very well and can be combined to get larger capacity. Do your homework as there is a steep learning curve just about batteries and their systems alone. Regarding the push button switch it is an unrelated issue to the battery's; it is a well known and documented malady of Yanmar engines and has to do with a drop in voltage due to aging wiring and connectors. Check the archives for the most common solutions which include re-wiring and or the installation of an auxiliary solenoid. welcome to the forum and if you stick around you will surely learn more about these boats that perhaps you may care to.
If you have a single engine control there is a safety switch in the control that will not allow the engine to be started if the boat is in gear. If the switch is worn or not adjusted properly the switch will not allow the engine to be started. If you have this kind of engine control, make sure it is in neutral (you will feel a definite click) and try starting. If it doesn't start, try jiggling the handle a bit and try again.
had this problem ...got rid of it forever added a solenoid at the engine side so that the current would would pass thru IT rather up and down the harness and connections
As otehrs have said:
-Check and clean ALL connections in the circuit on the battery side (heavy gauge) and solenoid/starter side (small gauge)..
- Have batteries tested
With a good quality DVM the trouble shooting process usually goes like this:
*What was the measured VD between batt neg terminal and engine ground?
*What was the measured VD between batt pos terminal and starter post pos stud?
This can be many things... Could be bad ground between starter and engine, bad brush, bad starter solenoid or bad motor as well as a bad termination. Ideally I don't like to see any more that 5% voltage drop between battery & starter and the battery should really not sag below 9-10V during starting but will preferably remain in the 11V +/- range....
-Check and clean ALL connections in the circuit on the battery side (heavy gauge) and solenoid/starter side (small gauge)..
- Have batteries tested
With a good quality DVM the trouble shooting process usually goes like this:
- Test both positive battery cable and negative side for voltage drop between batt & starter while cranking (use peak hold).
- Test for voltage drop across the battery switch between battery input and the "C" post.
- Test for low voltage recorded at the battery during cranking. (peak hold "low")
- Test for voltage drop between starter switch and solenoid.
- Test for voltage drop between engine panel negative and engine negative
*What was the measured VD between batt neg terminal and engine ground?
*What was the measured VD between batt pos terminal and starter post pos stud?
This can be many things... Could be bad ground between starter and engine, bad brush, bad starter solenoid or bad motor as well as a bad termination. Ideally I don't like to see any more that 5% voltage drop between battery & starter and the battery should really not sag below 9-10V during starting but will preferably remain in the 11V +/- range....
Is the engine a Yanmar? There is a known issue with Yanmars (GM series etc.) where the white wire form the starter button to the solenoid issized on the small side and, once the wire starts to corrode a bit there is too much resistance in the wire to engage the solenoid reliably. The accepted fix is to add a second solenoid. I have also hear of folks replacing the white wire with a heavier wire.
Cheers
Matt
Cheers
Matt
I had a car that did that, sometimes had to jiggle the shift lever to get it to start. If the starter is trying to work, you should at least hear a click when you hit the button. If no click, then probably the solenoid is not getting power at all, which would point to something like a safety switch.
after all the tests that you are doing, you will find a high current draw on the solenoid activation circuit line resulting in lower than 10 volts at the solenoid activation, or trigger side...this from voltage losses thru the connectors and connections....put the second smaller solenoid in its place and wire the starter solenoid to it...previously stated on this site
Save yourself a lot of trouble. There are like 11+ connections from battery to ignition switch to engine and back to battery. most of the "quick connect" with multiple wires. They are not auto type weather proof connectors so they corrode.
I would recommed neutering your electrical system of all the quick connects. The voltage drop (only occurs when current is flowing so a volt meter will not detect it) from corrosion does not allow enough curret to flow to energize the solenoid. splice all the wire and you will notice your gages read differently also. Also due to added resistance in the quick connectors.
I took out all the connectors and have never had any problems starting in going on 5 years.
I would recommed neutering your electrical system of all the quick connects. The voltage drop (only occurs when current is flowing so a volt meter will not detect it) from corrosion does not allow enough curret to flow to energize the solenoid. splice all the wire and you will notice your gages read differently also. Also due to added resistance in the quick connectors.
I took out all the connectors and have never had any problems starting in going on 5 years.
Just be aware that the voltage the Garmin reports is measured at the plotter itself and is generally horribly inaccurate when compared to battery terminal voltage. If the Garmin plotter has an internal battery forget about any level of voltage accuracy.... The voltage on a Garmin should only be used as a heart-beat to see if the charging system is working or not. Please don't depend on it for any level of accuracy..
Here are two Garmin plotters both connected to the same DC circuit / bus. One is showing 12.8V and the other 13.7V actually battery terminal voltage was 13.94V....
