New wiring thru the deck

[Ric Trimmer]

Another spring commissioning task is to fix the steaming light on the O-23. When I was rebedding the tabernacle yesterday, examination of the existing (original) wires revealed that they are exposed with quite a bit of insulation missing. With the re-bedding complete, wiring is next. So here's my thots and questions...Rather than try to repair or replace the existing run from the panel to the deck, my thought is to run a brand new run. The beginning is at the panel, then run on top of the headliner on the port side to the bulkhead. Then thru the bulkhead into the head. Once throught the bulkhead, make a right turn over to the center of the cabin and then thru the cabin roof. The wires can be secured to the bulkhead at the top and not be too unsightly.I'm probably going to run 6 wires + coax for a new antenna at masthead. The wires are for current steaming light (2), new anchor lite (2), and maybe down the road a combination steaming/foredeck light (2). Question: What kind of connector do I use coming thru the deck to seal the connection? Looks like the current setup just uses silicone squirted down the hole beside the wires. And does my overall plan make sense? Or am I missing something?Thanks,Ric Trimmers/v Wysperin' WindO-23Harrison Twp., MI

 

[Bob]

one wire per + one

Hi Ric,Need one wire for each light and one wire common to all. Use 16 AWG or larger stranded tinned wire (marine). Wire size = fuse / ckt brker rating, 16 AWG = 10 amps, 14 AWG = 15 amps, 12 AWG = 20 amps. Use a coax connector for coax and a 4 contact plug/socket for the wires.Consider using foam supports inside the mast every 3'. Can use pipe insulation cut about 2" longer than the inside of the mast or they sell plastic supports you attach to the wire as it is pulled into the mast.Another idea is to use a portable Davis - low power light for anchor and also cockpit light. The Davis light would plug into a 12v socket when needed and hung on the boom for a cockpit light or up on the back stay for anchor lt - stored below when not needed. Will reduce the number of wires to run and uses very little power.You then need only a 2 position deck plug for your steaming light and change it to a 3 pos. plug or add another 2 pos deck plug if/when you add deck lights.Good Luck with your projectBob

 

[Don Evans]

Cable Outlet

Hi Ric. What I have done is to buy a chrome plated cable outlet that has a rubber gland that tightens around the cable as it passes through it. It is very cheap and quite effective. Buy the size most appropriate for your cable. Think about potting the hole you drill through with epoxy by drilling an oversize hole for the cable to pass through, then filling it with epoxy, then redrilling the correct size for the cable. Its held in place with 3 stainless screws. Leave a bit of slack in the cable before it passes through. Don

 

[richard]

Bob, foam supports?

Can you explain a little more about this? Is it to keep the wires from rattling inside the mast? How do you get it in there?

 

[Bill]

Cable Feed Through

I just went through this with my 192. For the antenna coax (RG 58U)I came down the inside of the mast inside a black plastic flexible armor roll that I bought from an auto supply then through the deck near the step with a rubber gland affair similar to that suggested by Don. Got it at West Marine. It accomodates up to a 3/4" size VHF connector and held on by 8 screws in a 3 piece unit. Quite ingenius. You drill the hole through the rubber gland for the size of cable that you're using, then cut a slot from the outside to the center of the rubber gland where you drilled the hole. the whole affair fastens to the deck per the instructions and makes a very tight seal around the coax. I'm pleased with it. I did not add any more wiring in the mast though.To run the cable through the mast I drilled a hole at the base where I wanted the exit to be, then ran a stiff wire from the bottom up through the mast to the top. then attached the cable with the plastic armor around it, and drug it back through the mast. At the bottom, I ran the cable through a rubber grommet that fit the hole I had drilled.After this was done I saw another neat trick in the archives where a guy used plastic conduit down through the mast. He drilled two holes at intervals of 2 or 3 feet and at each junction point used one hole to pull the conduit tight to the mast and pop riveted the other hole. Pretty slick; take a look.I had read replys using foam, but thought it would give me trouble trying to work it past the screws at various points down through the mast.Good luck,Bill