New Trolling Motor
- Thread starter sbrogden
- Start date
The 30 was a little small for my Hunter 170. I replaced it last fall with a 40. I haven't tried it yet, but it pushes my canoe quite well.
I'm sure it will. The 30 worked ok it was just a little slow on the 170. I would suggest getting a spare prop kit. Those props can break. They also have a shear pin that will leave you stranded.
The lake I normally go to has a decent ramp and dock, plenty of depth for dagger board. I don't see running the motor into ground. It's just to get me away from the docks as the prevailing wind blows one back into the docks. Is the cause of breakage hitting the bottom or do they simply fail after a time?
I think the 30/40 use the same prop. Mine is a softer plastic that may hold up better than older models. The shear pin is more critical. A gust of wind that sends you into the bank could wreck the day.
Shear pin kits are a about $10.
Minn Kota sent me a replacement prop for a vibration issue. It came complete with the pin.
The props are about $30 and may come as a kit with spare pin.
Only when I forget about it. You may find that sitting at the stern isn't comfortable for long periods. What I do is lockdown the motor and use the rudder/tiller to steer. This way I am forward with better weight distribution. I put the battery forward too for ballast and use jumper cables to extend the motor's cord.
If you can reach the motor that is great. I can't with the 170 and sit near the CB. Most battery boxes come with mounting hardware and a strap. I'm not good with drilling holes. There should be some way to attach it to the tabernacle. A net comes to mind.
Try as I will, I can't suppress a memory. I lost my Minn Kota 30 in a capsize. I lost the battery and a few other goodies.
My new rule: If sailing with a friend and they use the jam cleat be forceful with suggestions.
I had a brand new Torqueedo for my dinghy. Took the dinghy to the beach to wash the bottom, while carrying the motor up the beach it slipped from my wet hands dropping about 6 inches landing on the prop. I had a one blade prop, it didn't work well.
They don't have a Vagabond or a Holder 14 on their list. Not sure how that would work on my boat.
Hmmm.... probably not going to find your boat on a lot of lists. You might need to spend some quality time with a tape measure and come up with some design spec. boundary conditions.
Here is a concept idea. On my canoe, I took two blocks of wood, 2x4, and trimmed them to mate to the aft gunwale. I put a sheet metal strap between the blocks to help hold it in place. I don't know the thickness of your gunwales but the motor clamp is wide. This is not the most elegant method but it works for me.
Some sailors have advised against using wood, as it will deteriorate after a while. But pressure treated wood or cedar will last a long time.
The lip on my boat sticks out 1-3/8 inch over the side. So I need about an inch an half of material to provide a solid surface for the back side of the clamp. I am thinking another, thinner plank on the inside so the clamps are no pressed on the fiberglass directly.
I had a 36lbs on my Starwind 19. It pushed much better than expected. I broke one blade off of it at the dock. The vibration wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It pushed our 8' dingy back to land without any issues.
I've had two plastic motor mounts fail on me. I switched to outdoor lumber and have had zero issues since
I've had two plastic motor mounts fail on me. I switched to outdoor lumber and have had zero issues since
On a Facebook page for small sailboats, a fella mentioned he used a plastic cutting board, cut size, to add the necessary bulk on the outside of the transom. I added a piece on the inside for the motor clamps to push against. Test fit the motor - looks fine. Now to get a battery.